thanks:) I used Vanity and a Gun's tutorial, but skipped a step( I thought I'd gotten iron-on transfer paper, haha) and just printed it onto some colorfast printable cotton(June Tailor, I think). There's such a multitude of interfacings and textile printables that it's just hit-and-miss sometimes, heh...
Great Bag! Can you post a tutorial? I would like to try and make one
sure thing!Poofier Slouchier Bag Tutorial
* this bag is basically a modified version of Tinafish's Slouchy Hobo Bag, but this tutorial includes instructions for a zippered pocket and a slightly easier-to-install handle.
Materials: 3/4 yard or so of the outer fabric, preferably a canvas or upholstry-type material that has some stiffness and body to it ( make sure you use a needle for denim/heavyweight fabric as needed)the lining can be anything you want, the cheesier the prints, the better:)
Some notions you'll need include a 12 inch zipper for the bag closure and a 7 inch zipper for the pocket,2 metal/plastic/wooden rings you can find at a craftstore or salvage from some poor ugly old purse, and tailor's chalk or a fine point water soluble fabric marker. Oh, also you'll need plenty of pins and patience.
Here are the dimensions for each of the pattern pieces:
Press a 3/8" seam allowance on each long side of the zipper casings. Refer to Tinafish's tutorial: https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=35575.0
for a photo of how the casing and zipper is put together. Remember, put the lining and fabric casing wrong sides together for each side, with the zipper centered in between these two layers - it'll save you from a lot of seam ripping
Now for the pleating - mark the center of the top of each side with tailor's chalk or a water soluble fabric pen. Make sure the pleats left of this mark are folded to the left and vice versa. The pleats on mine were about 1/4" deep and spaced 3/4" apart. I made 10 folds(pleats)each for the front and back of the bag. Make 6 slanting pleats that follow the center pleats and every other pleat on the left and right. Staystitch all the pleats with a 3/8" seam using small machine stitches. This will also serve as a stitching guide for putting the sides together. The top should now have shrunk to 12" down from 19"
Center the top of each side to the zipper casing so that the 12" edge lines up with the 12" functioning portion of the zipper. Put this aside, and pick up one of the lining pieces, the 2 pocket pieces, and a 7" zipper.
This'll probably remind you of another zipper tutorial on Crafster, but I tried to streamline the process a bit:
STEP 1: On the right side of one of the pocket pieces, mark a 7" x 3/8" opening as shown, about 1" or so from the top edge of the fabric..Carefully cut the slot so you have two rectangle and two triangle flaps.
STEP 2:Turn the fabric over so that the wrong side is facing up, fold over the little tabs and sew them down on this side.
STEP 3: place the zipper right side up, centered on top of the opening you just made. Pin and sew in place (this way there's no raw edges of zipper tape showing inside the finished pocket. It may help to flip the fabric over after you've pinned the zipper on the opening so you can better see where the stitches are going)
STEP 4: repeat the same process as step 1 on the right side of the lining piece, only this time make the slot about 3" down from the top of the fabric. Press the tabs to the wrong side like step 2, then carefully align the zipper in the slot. Sew in place.
STEP 5: almost done! flip your work over and pin the other pocket piece to the one that's sewn down, right sides together. Carefully sew all four edges of the pocket pieces together with a 3/8" seam allowance - try not to sew through the lining
tada! a pocket that's neat and pretty inside and out
Now for some assembly, we're reaching the home stretch:) Attach the lining pieces to the lining zipper case, just like you attatched the outer sides to the outer zipper casing.
Turn the body case inside out and sew edges together where shown in the diagram with red lines. Use tiny machine stitches then reinforce the main seam of the casing with an overedge or zigzag stitch.
Topstich through the fabric and lining zipper casing as shown in the diagram above with green lines. Make sure to hold the lining fabric taut with the outer fabric when you do this, so there's no odd bunching going on with the lining underneath. Lining can be very sneaky like that...
Turn the whole thing inside out again and sew the lining pieces together, leaving a whole in the bottom so the bag can give birth to itself.
Next, turn the bag rightside out through the hole you left in the lining. Time to make the handle!
You'll notice there's some diagonal lines on the illustration of the handle piece. This will make the handle narrower in the middle so it sits on your shoulder better. Sew the two handle strips rightsides together using a 1/4" seam until the needle approaches the diagonal line, then stich directly on top of the diagonal line. Turn rightside out. Tuck in the raw edges at the ends about 1/4" or so, press the whole thing flat. Topstitch the edges and sew close the ends.
You'll also notice the the bag body has 2 little 'legs' at the top and the zipper casing sticks out a couple inches past the zipper. This is a good thing. Whipstitch the 'bad' ends of the zipper together to get rid of any wierd gaps and to make this next step easier. Wrap one of the bag 'legs' over a ring and tuck a good 3/4" or so of fabric into the funky hole at the end of the zipper casing. Fold the raw edge of the casing into the hole as well, and sew down the two as shown in the illustration with the red lines to secure the ring, using tiny stitches and backing over it a good many times to reinforce it.
Take one end of the handle, fold it around the ring, stitch in place, reinforce well. Repeat for the other side.
*drumroll* bag completed!!!
I hope this tutorial wasn't too confusing- any questions welcome!