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Topic: making vegan lotion  (Read 1887 times)
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« on: December 02, 2003 03:00:22 PM »

I found this site with cool recipes, but it seems a bit complicated:

Does anyone have any easy recipes or recipes with easier-to-find/cheaper ingredients?


« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2004 03:34:57 PM »

hi--I don't know if you're still interested in making a lotion, but maybe someone else is so here you are--

that cream you posted the link to has some nice ingredients, but it wouldn't make a cream--there's no emulsifier in it--which is needed to keep the water and oil mixed--it's like making mayonaise.

the simplest cream is also the oldest--it's Galen's Cold Cream, written down in the 2nd century--it's still used today--Burt's Bees Creams use the basic idea of Galen's Cold cream---

56 parts olive oil
24 parts beeswax
20 parts rosewater
2 parts borax

now you said you wanted a vegan cream--this makes it more difficult--you can substitite soy wax for the beeswax but it won't be guite as nice and smooth--

now I hope you won't be offended by this, but I buy my beeswax from a local beekeeper who has the most pampered bees in the universe--they aren't harmed by his taking their beeswax--and in fact he protects them from bears and other predators and he keeps them disease free.  

Making creams is not too difficult but you have to be pretty careful to measure accurately and to follow the proper procedure.

Also, anything with water in it will spoil pretty quickly without a preservative--keep homemade creams in the fridge.

here's some directions I cut and pasted from another Forum--they're from ElaineB

I would suggest trying this with extra virgin olive oil--this is absolutely wonderful for your skin. If you have rose water you could use that for some of the water.  You can add essential oil in drops to scent this cream.

Water: 35%
Liquid oils: 50%
Waxes, solid fats: 15%

The borax is measured in proportion to the amount of beeswax:
1 part beeswax to 0.05 parts borax. So if you used 10 grams of beeswax you'd add 0.5 grams of borax to the water phase.

Other than that, there are no real rules about what goes into a cold cream. I have an old formulary that lists perhaps two dozen different recipes, each using different oils, waxes, and solid fats. Some use stearic acid in addition to the beeswax. Some use lanolin (which also happens to be a good emulsion stabilizer) or other natural waxes. Some formulas actually didn't even use borax to saponify the beeswax, but added weak lye solutions instead! So there's lots and lots of room for experimentation.

How you mix your  emulsion turns out to be very critical to the success of your product. They are definitely finicky in comparison to o/w emulsions and more likely to separate. When you've heated the water and oil phases to 170F , add the water to the oil very gradually, in dribbles, and whisk very well between additions. When everything is added, give it a quick shot with a stick blender -- perhaps 10-15 seconds -- to homogenize the water into the oil and reduce droplet size. Then let the emulsion cool down, as you stir gently. (Do not keep whipping with the stick blender because it'll over-process the emulsion.) When it's cooled to room temp, add the Fragrances, a final 15-30 second zap with the stick blender again, making sure it stays under the surface of the liquid and doesn't add air bubbles to the mixture.

These brief homogenizations help give a nice texture to the cream. One of the biggest problems with beeswax/borax emulsions is the relatively high wax content. It takes about 48 hours for the wax to completely crystallize. And if you simply poured the hot cream into jars and let it sit, you'd find the cream would harden into a sort of balm-like texture and you might even see tiny nuggets of wax start to separate from the emulsion. They can give the cream almost a crumbly texture.

In my old formularies the manufacturers let this happen and then after a couple of days milled the emulsions between rollers to make the texture smooth and creamy again. Nowadays, as I can best gather, manufacturers do these brief homogenizations which reduce the size of the wax crystals and also stabilize the emulsion. I haven't had many crystallization or separation problems since I started making my creams this way.

Finally, although everyone thinks of w/o emulsions as thick and greasy, they do not have to be this way. Your choice of oils will make a huge difference to how the emulsion will feel as it's rubbing in (using very light oils like Fraction. Coconut Oil or Macadamia will help make it feel light) and your choice of waxes will affect how greasy/dry it will feel once the oils have absorbed.

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