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Topic: TUTORIAL: Magnetic Snaps (version 2)  (Read 34806 times)
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« on: October 26, 2005 07:34:23 PM »

I've tried a few different ways of making handbags with magnetic snaps and this way seems to be the easiest for me.  Let me know if you have any questions.  I did want to add that I had tried plastic canvas as well and don't use it for a couple reasons.  You could cut it in a circle and it would work great.  I always did mine in a square and wondered why they always pokes holes eventually but it was because of the pointy sharp corners.  The other side to working with plastic canvas in handbags is if you wash and dry them, the plastic will melt.  The thick interfacing (not cardboard) is completely washable and dryable.  Smiley  Now on with the tute.


(1) Set Magnetic Clasps (4 pieces total, two protectors & two clasps; see below)

Piece of thick interfacing or cardboard



*Reminder:  If you are sewing a handbag, put the magnetic clasps in the lining BEFORE the bag is sewn together.  This will allow everything to be neatly hidden (see illustration below).

Cut out 4 small pieces of interfacing or cardboard.  Place magnetic clap down and draw circle around it about an inch out (see picture below).

Cut out circle.  Place protector in middle of circle and using your pen/pencil, trace where the two lines are on the protector, onto the interfacing/cardboard.  When done, cut those lines to create small slits.  I did this by folding the circle in half where the lines were, and then cutting two small slits where the fold was.

Take your protector piece and line it up on your fabric where you want the snap to be placed.  Be sure to go far enough down, leaving enough room for the seam allowance.  Take your pen/pencil and trace the two lines again but this time onto your fabric.  When done, cut those lines to create small slits.

You are now looking at the 3 pieces necessary to complete one side.  The interfacing/cardboard cut out, the one side of the magnetic clasp and the protector.

Take your magnetic clasp and slip the prongs through the small slits in the fabric, making sure the prongs are coming out of the wrong side of the fabric.

Place your interfacing/cardboard over the prongs coming out of the wrong side of the fabric.

Place your protector over the interfacing/cardboard and over the prongs coming out of the wrong side of the fabric.

Bend prongs down so pieces all stay in place.  (Please note, I now bend prongs inward instead of outward...this prevents the possibility of the prongs poking through the fabric.)

You are now ready to sew the rest of your bag or whatever you are sewing.  Notice in the picture below that the inside of the lining shows what the clasps will look like all clean and professional looking.

This view is on the wrong side of the fabric showing what will be hiding in the bag once it is all sewn together.

Here is the completed bag with clasps all neatly done and above picture examples hidden inside the bag.  I left just enough room between the edge of the fabric and the clasps so I could sew the seam allowance and the bag together.

Here is the completed bag closed.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.  Thanks!
« Last Edit: February 14, 2007 07:49:05 PM by janetsjunk » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2005 10:48:08 AM »

Wow, thanks so much!  This seems so easy to me now.  I bought one magnetic snap but haven't felt confident enough to try it out.  Now I think I'm ready.

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« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2005 02:57:35 PM »

Hey, great tut. I just got some snaps, now I must go and use them. Grin

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« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2005 12:22:40 AM »

Thanks a lot! I did it almost the same way, but used to cut through the fabric and interfacing at the same time and it could be difficult sometimes. Next time I'm going to do it your way! Smiley
« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2005 12:31:31 PM »

Great Tute!  I do my snaps in a very similar way but I must be lazier cause I don't cut my interfaceing into circles.  A few things I thought I'd mention is that I bend the tabs on the back side of the snaps in instead of out.  I figure it is one less sharp thing to try and break through the fabric.  Then to finish it all off I add another extra layer of iron-on interfacing over the back side of the snap to cover up the ugly snap fastening.  I don't know if it is really necessary but I do this in order to keep the back side from rubbing through to the good side of the bag just in case the bag encounters a lot of friction, somehow.

I also like drawing my lines on the good side of the bag lining before cutting so I can hold the pieces together and make sure that the two sides of the snaps will really fit together.   All and all this is a great tute with good pictures.  Much better than the complete lack of information they give on the snap packaging.
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« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2006 11:19:42 PM »

Great tutorial! Cheesy Thank you!

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« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2006 09:50:33 AM »

Ahhhhhhhhhh! I can't see the pictures, but I'm sure this is the tutorial I need to use!

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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2006 03:49:36 PM »

what bad luck!! i need it too plz fix the pix

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« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2006 11:18:53 PM »

oohh...i could use the pics too!..  Sad

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« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2006 04:14:59 PM »

Sorry guys...I had a crash and lost everything so can't retrieve the pics.  Should have posted them on Craftster.  As soon as I get a chance, I will repost.  Sorry.  Smiley

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« Reply #10 on: February 14, 2007 07:50:07 PM »

My apologies for the period of time that the pictures were not appearing.  I have added them to the picture gallery here on Craftster so they won't disappear again.  Enjoy!  Smiley

« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2007 12:17:12 PM »

sometimes i fold a scrap of fabric two or three thicknesses to pad the snap since they're so strong. i sandwich it all together: snap, outer fabric layer, folded fabric scrap, slotted snap guide, lining fabric layer.

i use a seam ripper to cut the slots - i mark with a pen through the slots of the guide onto my folded fabric scrap and then just slip my seam ripper in on one end of the line and cut through all thicknesses to the other end of the line. i do the same on the wrong side of the outer fabric - mark it and cut it with my seam ripper. then, i push the snap tabs through the outer fabric and the folded scrap, through the guide and then fold them out. the folded scrap seems to cushion the tabs enough that they don't wear through, and it also lends strength to the area where the snap is - those snaps are sometimes herculean!
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« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2008 10:14:37 AM »

Good tips, I use cut up plastic milk carton for extra stability. I round the corners of the plastic and cut the holes out with and exacto. Makes a really strong base for the snaps.


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« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2008 09:15:59 PM »

This is great advice, the thick interfacing, the milk cartons and folding the prongs inward.  I've always had so much trouble getting my snaps to not rip my fabric or not be strong enough to withstand opening and closing.  Thanks!

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« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2008 05:08:45 PM »

Great information - I have been struggling marking where to cut slots - duh - using the back clasp - BRILLIANT - much easier than inking the prongs forcing into the fabric and then cutting - thanks
« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2009 12:51:28 PM »

I recently installed magnetic snaps in a purse and it was such a headache!  It turned out perfect, but I wish I had seen this tute first! 

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« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2009 02:41:50 PM »

I can see the images just fine (and the tutorial is good), but if folks are still struggling, I have a step by step photo tutorial on this same thing at my blog post right now, embedded in my "Big Sister Bag Tutorial", since I used a magnetic closure for this purse.


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