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Topic: Boning and Lining question  (Read 785 times)
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« on: June 14, 2013 02:09:00 AM »

Hi Smiley

I'm planning to edit a corset pattern and add sleeves to make this outfit for a cosplay group: http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20091108231310/ccs/images/4/47/The_silent.jpg.

Should I only add boning to the inside of the lining? Is this so that the bodice is supported and so that you can't see the extra stitch lines on the main (non-lining) layer? I'm planning encasing the boning in the lining's seam allowance. I'm assuming I should only add boning on the front upto my bust or just below. ^^

Also, in this tutorial video they suggest "understitching" the lining. You can see the stitches at 6:17. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNEderzgBVw

Is this a good thing to do? I've only used lining once and that was for medival-style sleeves. As I'm self-taught theres still some things I'm not knowledgeable about. Any replies would be greatly appreciated! Wink
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2013 02:58:36 PM »

Yes, stitching the boning casing to the lining only hides the boning. This technique is common in bridal wear. If you want only the seams to show on the outside, then this is the technique to use.

When I make corsets or corset based tops from any era, I make a casing at each seam by sewing the lining to the casing on either side of the seam, then inserting the boning along the seam line. With this technique, there is a line of topstitching along each side of the seam on the outside.

Either technique works just fine.

Understitching is often used to keep facings and linings on the inside where they belong. I do this at necklines, because I hate neck facings popping out. I sew the facing to the seam allowance a scant 1/8 or less from the seam line.

I don't have time to watch the video right now, but I am assuming it instructs you to understitch the lining at the hem of the sleeve. If so, there's options. One, you can follow the directions to the letter. Two, you can skip the understitching, and see what happens. Three, if you've skipped the understitching and the sleeve hem keeps rolling so the lining shows, you can topstitch about 1/16 or so from the hem line to keep the lining on the inside.

The question for any historical garment is how historically accurate do you need to be? If every construction detail will be examined, then it's important to avoid cutting corners. But if the important thing is the overall effect, you can take a lot more shortcuts. For example, a historically accurate corset must have the cut, shape, construction, and clousures that were used at that point in time. For a costume, the cut and shape are critical, but construction short cuts and modern closures can be used. For example, a corset could have a historically accurate laced back, but also an invisible zipper in a side seam, so the garment can be taken off or put on quickly by the wearer without any extra help.

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