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Topic: Evenweave linen (zweigart Kingston 55 count) not even  (Read 1123 times)
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Effie Jessop
« on: September 12, 2012 02:40:28 AM »

I just bought some zweigart Kingston 55 count linen. My understanding was that this was "evenweave" linen and therefore was the same across the warp and the weft.

I'm sewing a piece that is made up of letters that are sewn over 4 threads in each direction and it is really important that these are all square, otherwise the overall design will be warped. I started sewing and thought the letters seemed stretched so I have stitched out 20 stitches of four threads each in both directions and there is a good 5mm difference over these 80 threads, with the warp-wise stitches being longer than the weft-wise stitches.

Can anyone explain this to me, or recommend a fabric that is truly even in both directions (preferably 45 count or higher)

Thanks very much!
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2012 06:15:54 AM »

You've got me. I went the Zweigart site and they don't have this linen listed at all, although I see it offered through other online needlework shops. However. Things I've found with linen in the past make me think that your problem is probably just the nature of the beast.

Linen threads are never completely smooth. This means that parts of them are always going to be thicker than others. If you absolutely HAVE to have completely square crosses in every case, 100% linen isn't the fiber you want for your fabric. Usually the variations work out over the course of a project: stitching over multiple threads evens out the stitches and everything comes out smooth, more or less. Sometimes you get a piece of fabric that's more slubby than usual, and you can end up with the issue you seem to be having. When you get into higher counts, sometimes the warp thread will stretch when it's woven, since it's under very high pressure. This can stretch out the count in that direction.

So if you're looking for perfectly square stitches, you want something other than linen. That said, I've never seen evenweave fabrics in threads other than linen that come with a higher count than about 32. This doesn't mean they don't exist: only that I haven't' found them. I've been known to stitch on plain dressmaker's fabric when I need a higher count.

My suggestion for you on this design is to play around a little. Since you seem to have a definite skew in one direction, try stitching over 3 threads warp wise and 4 threads weft-wise, which may square your stitches. Smiley

Hope this ramble helped a little!

~~G. Romilly Mueller
Stitch Creatively! "Cat fur? What cat fur? That's creative use of specialty fibers!" Me, RCTN 1994
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