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Topic: Tutorial! Simple skirt with pockets.  (Read 3199 times)
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« on: February 09, 2012 02:09:41 PM »

If I make enough springy clothes it will warm up faster right?

I made a tutorial for my basic skirt pattern. I've made a few versions of this skirt and absolutely love it. It's really adaptable too. It's only four pieces (well, technically six because you have two pockets and two parts to the waistband) so it's pretty simple.

You'll need two measurements for the pattern: your waist measurement, W, and a length measurement, L. I always over-estimate on the length because it's much easier to make a skirt shorter than longer.

Make your pattern pieces using the measurements in the picture. The front and back are the same, except the front has the cut out for the pocket. If you want a skirt without pockets, just make the front just like the back and skip all the pocket instructions. The amount the skirt flares out is up to you. The first skirt shown at the top is a straight skirt and the blue and purple one I'm using for the tutorial is more A-line.

To make the pocket pieces, trace the top 10 inches or so of the front. Then fold the pocket in half and make the angle of the vertical side match the flared side.

Pin the pattern to your fabric and cut out the pieces. Cut the front and back on the fold, and cut two waistbands and two pockets. If your fabric is directional like mine be careful. I labeled my front pattern on the wrong side and almost ended up with upside fish!

Pin the pocket to the front of the skirt as shown and sew just the curved part. The yellow lines show where my pins were and the white paper is just to make it easier to see where the pocket is because this fabric doesn't have a right side and a wrong side. Make all seams 5/8".

Repeat for the other pocket. I pink the seams so they don't unravel too much, but it's optional. You could also overlock stitch, french seam, or just let them fray. Clip the curve and press the seam. You should end up with something like this:

Fold the pocket in half as shown and stitch the bottom of the pocket. Press seam.

With right sides together pin front and back together at the side seams, making sure the pockets are on the outside, so they will be on the inside when the skirt is turned right side out. Stitch the side seams and press open.

Pin waistbands with right sides together. Stitch short end on one side (shown in red), and on the other side leave a 1 inch gap for inserting elastic. Press seams open.

Fold the waistband long ways, right side out, and press. Pin waistband to skirt, matching side seams, and making sure that the opening will end up on the inside of the skirt. Stitch waistband to skirt and press seam allowances down.

** Edit: It's hard to see the waistband in this picture--I should have used that piece of paper to help show where it is. What is going on is that the main part of the skirt is right side out, and the waist band is around the top, upside-down, right sides together. The gap to insert the elastic is facing out at this point, so once the waistband is sewn to the skirt and folded back up it will be on the inside.**

Draw inch elastic through the waistband. Try on the skirt and adjust the elastic to the right size. Cut and sew the elastic ends together.

Hem the skirt using whatever method you like. I like using blind hem stitch. It's the stitch that looks like a half triangle wave, and you fold the hem in a way that most of the stitching doesn't show. I was pretty excited when I figured out how to use that stitch. But you can sew any hem you feel like.

Ta-da! Skirt with pockets!

« Last Edit: February 10, 2012 08:49:15 AM by nerdyhippy » THIS ROCKS   Logged
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2012 02:45:48 PM »

Very cute skirts!!  Love the fish fabric!  Thanks for the tutorial too!  Smiley

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« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2012 08:48:33 PM »

I had trouble wrapping my head around the geometry of the pocket, but now that I have, that looks like an easier way to do a curved or slash pocket than what I've done in the past.

"An old cloak makes a new jerkin..." (Wm Shakespeare, recycling and DIY enthusiast)
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2012 10:11:45 PM »

I don't mean to be a pain, but I have a few questions:
1) do they wrinkle easily if they aren't lined
2) how do you determine the width of the bottom of the panels? Does it just depend on how much flare you want the skirt to have at the hem?
They look so fun I can't wait to try it. Thanks!

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« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2012 08:43:55 AM »

wifeofbath: yeah the pocket geometry is kind of confusing...I saw something similar on a skirt in a store and thought it was brilliant and had to replicate it! I like it because the opening for the pocket is larger than when pockets are on the side seams and not visible. I don't regularly carry things around in my pockets, I just use them temporarily when my hands are full, so pockets that are easy to get things like keys in and out of are what I need.

1.    Any wrinkling would depend on the fabric more than the pattern. The two skirts shown here use a cotton that might wrinkle some, but since the pattern is kind of busy it shouldn't be too noticeable. If I made this skirt in a solid or light color I would make sure to choose a fabric that didn't wrinkle too much.

Lining also depends on the fabric...I tend to use darker or thick fabrics for skirts so they don't need to be lined, but if you used something light colored it might be necessary. If you need to line this I would suggest cutting another front and back in the lining fabric and sewing it in the same manner, connecting it to the skirt at the pocket curves and waistband, that way the pocket ends up under the lining and doesn't show. Then hem the lining separately, making it a little shorter so it doesn't show at the bottom.

2.    Yes, the width at the bottom just depends on how much flare you want the skirt to have. I just estimate, but I've made a lot of skirts and have a feel for it. If in doubt you could compare it to a skirt you already have to get the angle right. In general a fabric with good drape would look good really wide at the bottom, while a stiffer fabric would look good as a straight or pencil skirt, maybe with a slit on the side seams.
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