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Topic: Allsaints Celestina Skirt... <3  (Read 4139 times)
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apest
« on: July 28, 2011 11:09:18 AM »

So it comes I went to London in a business trip and I discovered the fabulous and expensive world of Allsaints shops amd fell in love almost instantly with the Celestina skirt (http://www.allsaints.com/women/skirts/celestina-skirt/indigo|-chalk-stpe/wsk051-2698)

It comes also that they were out of my size and also on the site they have size 14 but I'm not sure if it fits me.
I love the way it look like to have a pettycoat making the skirt fluffy and flying around. I had a close look at the paneling and I saw there's a lot of fabric, the outer skirt is not the same as the inside one: it seems to have more panels on the inside to make the calico fabric bend and add fullness.
On the site they say it's a triangular paneling, you can see also from the pictures there's a strange horizontal sewing line between upper and lower panels all around the skirt.

If I'd try to draw a pattern to replicate it, do you have any indication from what I can start from?

Thanks, any help very very appreciated Cheesy

FRONT
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/large-xlarge/WSK051-2698-1.jpg

SIDE
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/large-xlarge/WSK051-2698-2.jpg

BACK
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/large-xlarge/WSK051-2698-3.jpg
« Last Edit: August 02, 2011 06:12:14 AM by photojenn - Reason: hotlinked images » THIS ROCKS   Logged

suereal
Im not crazy about reality, but its still the only place to get a decent meal-Groucho Marks
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« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2011 01:54:13 PM »

That is a super cool skirt!  And complicated LOL.  I thinking I would start with where the skirt meets the waist band.  Measure around you where you want to that part to hang from.  Measure how long you want it.  I would use paper for the pattern to start with (and I would also make it in muslin or some cheep fabric first) and it will be a wedge shape, with the smaller part being the top.  It looks to me like it's circle skirt, so you could do some math (which I have no idea what it would be..I tend to wing that kind of thing) to figure out how big the bottom of the wedge would be.  Once you have your wedge drafted out, you will need to add extra on all sides so that you will have enough to do the pleating...maybe as much as an inch and 1/2 to even 3 inches, depending on how deep you want the pleats.  It looks to me like the seems where you will join the wedges are hidden in the pleating, so the more you are adding to the edges, the more likely the seem will stay hidden.  Now, work on the seams inside the wedges.  Decided if you want them equal all the way around the skirt, so the seems make a zig zag, OR if you want each wedge to have different seeming.  If you decided to go with the even zig zag, draw your line where you want it on your pattern, cut along that line, don't forget to add seem allounce when you cut the fabric. AND flip the pattern every other wedges so the lines closer to the hem will line up with the other wedges lower seem.  If you want the even look, draw lines on the pattern in the direction you want them to go.  It will help you line up the lines on the fabric.  If you want a more random look, I would just start sewing fabric together until you have enough to be able to cut out your wedge.  You will need 6 fabric panels to make the skirt it looks like to me. You'll need a zipper to have that nice fitted waist band, so decided where you want that and add enough to put the zipper in.  I would cut much more length in the wedge then I would think I need, just in case.  Next I would probably make the waist band, and get that to fit as you wish.  Sew the pieced wedges together and then move on to the under skirt.  It looks like the underskirt is box pleated, to help with a bit less bulk at the waist band seam.  You can just use a rectangle of fabric for the underskirt, since you want the over skirt to puff a bit, just remember to make it much longer then the top one, so you can fiddle with the hems to make them hang as you want. AND remember you will have to have the zipper caught in the under and over skirt.  So it might be best to not sew the one seem the zipper is going into so you can work with the how to pleat the underskit on to the top of the over skirt (which I would have done the pleating and have it stay stitched before working with the underskirt pleating).  Then sew the last seem and put the zipper in add the waist band and hem.

Sure hope that makes some kind of sense LOL.  Best of luck!
« Last Edit: July 28, 2011 01:56:36 PM by suereal » THIS ROCKS   Logged

"People who have uncovered lifes twisted hoax find refuge in the irreverent, twisted and weird."

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« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2011 06:30:41 PM »

If I were making this I would start by making a circle skirt pattern. Here's a pretty good tutorial: http://katiekadiddlehopper.blogspot.com/2009/04/circle-skirt-how-to.html
She even makes it into six panels, which is exactly what you want.
Once you have the pattern for one panel, you'd want to cut it (and add seam allowance) horizontally along a line like this drawing, maybe more exaggerated:

From your photos, this is what I think each panel looks like, though some may have the cut/seam at different heights.
Suereal mentions pleats but I didn't think there was any when I first saw it... right where it attaches to the waistband looks like a regular circle skirt to me, with the folds creating the look of pleats further down without there actually being any, but now that I've been staring at it, it's sort of hard to tell.
I would make the underskirt a circle skirt too... maybe something like a circle and a half or more for the added fullness, or a circle that's larger than your waist gathered into the waistband. The way it folds looks like it's circular, as opposed to a rectangle.
Hope that helps!
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suereal
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« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2011 06:51:11 PM »

OO that was a much easier way to think of it all.  I was just typing as I thought.  The reason I think there are pleats, is you can't see the seems where the wedges are joined, so the must be tucked under some how.

And I was thinking the box pleats for the under skirt, because gathering could add a lump along the waist band seem.  Box pleats will make a less bulky finish I think.
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"People who have uncovered lifes twisted hoax find refuge in the irreverent, twisted and weird."

 RuPaul in discussion With John Waters
N30Nb100d
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2011 08:49:23 PM »

You're right, box pleats would be less bulky than gathering. The more I look at it, the more I think it has neither though... maybe it's just very flared panels for the underskirt (adding up to say... two circles, but fitted at the waist).
I get what you mean about the seams being hidden, hmm, I think I didn't see it as pleats because of the way the stripes come together at the top. I picture pleats breaking them up more.
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apest
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2011 09:00:01 AM »

Thanks a lot you both!
This is very illuminating...
hmm.... As far as I recall while I had the skirt on hands in the shop it had no pleats on the upper skirt. it only flew gently folding on itself along the sides of each panel. 

the underskirt seemed more bulky at the bottom than the upper one, maybe i just need to taper more the bottom side of the panels, with some pleats so to make it less bulky? or some darts will do?

I'll try a muslin tomorrow... Cheesy

(hope this makes sense english is not my primary language!!)

Apest

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suereal
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« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2011 10:09:24 AM »

Then it does sound like both over and under skirts are at least full circle skirt.  Maybe the over skirt even has and extra panel to make it fuller, and the underskirt might be even larger if it is much fuller then the over one.  For the 50's style crinolines, they make a tight fitting top of the crinoline, and then add the fullness in under that.  SO it allmost looks like they are wearing underwear with the puff starting just under the bum.

Please let us know how your progress goes Grin
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"People who have uncovered lifes twisted hoax find refuge in the irreverent, twisted and weird."

 RuPaul in discussion With John Waters
apest
« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2011 01:23:44 PM »

yes it seems pretty like full circle shirts.. i spotted also on allsaints site this other skirt who seems very similar: http://www.allsaints.com//women/skirts/flag-skirt/flag-red|-calico/wsk045-2694, though the Celestina looks like much fuller.

...thinking....thinking....thinking....
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« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2011 04:57:23 PM »

I found some bigger images:
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/xlarge/WSK051-2698-1.jpg
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/xlarge/WSK051-2698-2.jpg
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/xlarge/WSK051-2698-3.jpg
http://images.allsaints.com/downloads/Image/product/xlarge/WSK051-2698-4.jpg

The horizontal seam is lower on the hip than on the front or back, which are roughly even. I think N30Nb100d's idea of the panel shape is close, but I think there may be an extra seam up the center on the rear panels. And it looks like the panels in the rear are narrower, but the slant along the sides is the same, adding that extra fulness.

As for the underskirt, the description says that there is "triangular panelling...to give effective movement." Perhaps the underskirt has the same basic pattern as the overskirt (possibly sans that curved horizontal seam) but with added triangular gores? They would let it have a bigger swing without adding bulk at the waist.
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apest
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2011 01:28:04 AM »

Thanks for the pictures!!

I think that the panel (at least those in front) have an uneven seam rising from one side to another like this draft. I counted seven panels all around the skirt, three in front and four in the back, so adjust the upper side of the panels according.



Meanwhile i received a message on flickr by Enchantedviolin that bought that skirt and explained
".... you are right, there are no pleats on the top or underskirt - the underskirt is made of triangle and rectangle panels and that is why it gathers and flares out at the bottom. It goes triangle, rectangle, triangle, rectangle etc so that the waist of the underskirt is flat and the same size as the overskirt but much, much wider at the bottom."

this in fact is really helpful, so in a bit of photoshop creativity i produced this draft also for undergown. I think that adding two triangles between rectangles will add up even more fullness at the bottom. Rectangles also are slanted. However I think I should carefully make a muslin playing with bottom circumference, as adding more and more fullness will reach the tutu effect and have too much fabric under the upper skirt (which seems a full circle one)

What do you think?

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