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Topic: Help a crocheter understand your knitting lingo? Aka pattern deciphering.  (Read 1604 times)
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« on: July 23, 2012 12:02:38 PM »

While I am more of a crocheter, I do know how to knit and am usually pretty good at reading patterns. I kind of cheat and own an Ultimate Sweater Machine (which I love so much; no tight knit rows and impossibly loose purl rows in my stockinette anymore! Wink) BUT~! I would like to make a yoked sweater, which I have never attempted, and the construction of such is confusing me. So! Three things!

1) I am using this pattern http://www.naturallycaron.com/projects/juneau/juneau_1.html , but getting rid of the cable detail in front and adding a simple k6 p1 rib all the way around. So you start out knitting the body panels and sleeves, and then transfer all four pieces onto circular needles and knit the yolk. When I swtich from straight rows to rounds, will I be creating a spiral in my work? I don't want my lovely straight ribs to spiral after this point. I don't think it will, or maybe not as badly as crochet does, but...

2) To quote this pattern, you start the yolk "using larger circular needle and working stitches as they face you". What does this mean? I think it means I hang my pieces so the stockinette faces right-side-out all the way around my circular needles, and that I knit with this right side facing me, yes?

3) So my yoke just... just connects my four pieces at the shoulder/decreases into the neck part. But it does not connect the underarms of the sleeves or the sides of the body in any way, right? I will still have to stitch together along the sleeves and sides when I am done, right? And this will leave the correct arm holes and such...? I feel the pattern is missing a "finishing" section which should say this.

Thanks so much, everyone! It's been forever since I hand-knitted anything... but this pattern is exactly what I want to make and uses the EXACT gauge my #3 keyplate knits... so I am willing to attempt hand-knitting the yolk. I just need to figure out what my hand-gauge is again, ahaha. Pretty sure I only own size 6 and size 12 straight needles, neither of which will do me any good for this. Roll Eyes

« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2012 06:06:06 PM »

Knitting in the round is knitting a spiral but it won't cause your knitting to skew or bias.

Working stitches 'as they face you' means knit the ones that look like knits and purl the ones that look like purls. You'll always be working on the RS of the pieces.

The pattern has you BO the underarm stitches on both the body and sleeves, and then  you sew them together. But it's much less bulky if you leave those sts on holders and use a kitchener stitch to graft them together or do a 3 needle bind off for the underam seams.

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« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2012 09:42:31 AM »

Lovely, thank you, and I totally know how to do kitchener and that is such a useful tip! The sewing together bits is my least favorite part...

One last question! So that pattern only gives the gauge for size 9 needles in stockinette, and it is 4 stitches per inch. When I start the sleeves I cast on 46 stitches... which is (46 st / 4 per inch =) 11.5 inches around, not the 9 inches that the schematic says it should be. Does using one size smaller needles (8 ) in a k2p2 rib really make a cuff that is 2.5 inches smaller?!

Regardless of this fact, I am supposed to end the widest part of the sleeve with 70 sts on size 9 needles in stockinette. According to the given gauge, this would give me a sleeve that's 17.5 inches around...?!   The schematic has no measurement for this, but it seems absurdly large; I've made raglan sweaters before, and my cuff is always 9 inches and my shoulder 12 inches. The pictured sweater doesn't appear to have big baggy sleeves, either. Does this have something to do with it being a yoked sweater, or do I need to do some Sweater Math to make this smaller?
« Last Edit: July 24, 2012 09:44:59 AM by BunnieBard » THIS ROCKS   Logged

« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2012 07:21:09 AM »

It says to knit the cuffs using 'the smaller needle', but they don't give that needle size. Usually ribbing on cuffs is done on a needle one or 2 sizes smaller, so try a 7. When you measure the ribbing don't stretch it out. Try the smaller needles and don't measure it for at least 2".

Yes, sleeves often have at least 4" of ease (larger than the body part) at the upper part. Then you take out the underarm sts, so that's only 60. Did you check your gauge to make sure you're at 4 sts per inch? You could knit it on size 8s all the way around if you think the measurements are going to be too large.


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