A Crafts Community For Craft Ideas & DIY Projects - Craftster.org
Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map
Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
JULY NEWS ANNOUNCEMENT: It's time to enter FLIP FLOP FUSION! Enter your fab flip flop project now!
Total Members: 318,706
Currently Running With Scissors:
457 Guests and 11 Users
Home Craftster Community Crafting Articles Craft Tutorials My Craftster Crafting Calendar City Guides Craft Shop


Pages: 1 2 3 4 [All]
Jump to page:
  Show Images Only     Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
Topic: 16th c. Italian Working class ensemble - Renaissance  (Read 16580 times)
Tags for this thread: costume , featured_project , craftster_best_of_2011  Add new tag
Share the love... Pin it Submit to reddit add to Wists
1+
 
silverstah
« on: March 05, 2011 08:55:32 AM »


rust-colored working class - side front by silverstah, on Flickr

This the end product of a project that I've been working on for... a while, off and on.  I'm a law student, so sewing time tends to be very scattered. Smiley

My primary area of interest in the SCA is Italian working-class clothing - I'm a worker-bee in the SCA, so it seems appropriate to be wearing worker-bee clothing. Smiley

I've been working with this style for a while - tweaking my technique and trying to look like I've stepped out of a portrait.  Each time I make one, I feel like I'm getting closer....

Here are the last two incarnations:

http://silverstah.com/campi2.html
http://silverstah.com/pinkcampi.html

And here's the current incarnation - done in 100% wool gabardine, completely hand sewn with silk thread. Guards are black wool twill tape. Sleeves in green herringbone linen, lined in plain white linen. Lacing points for sleeves are commercial cotton cord with bolo tie points - they will be eventually replaced with lucetted cord with homemade agilets. :



I started out with the support layer - I chose to do a corded corset, done in two layers of medium weight linen and boned with hemp cord. I feel like this gives the proper support, and shapes the bust to the Italian silhouette. Love that curved bust!


snapshot(9) by silverstah, on Flickr

I started by fitting the basic bodice block - I use a curved-front seam to give the bust a nice gentle slope. The bodice is self-supporting, even without the corded corset underneath.


snapshot(Cool by silverstah, on Flickr


snapshot(6) by silverstah, on Flickr

The bodice is done in a wool gabardine, lined in two layers of medium weight linen. The dress is entirely hand-sewn - each bodice piece was finished and then whip-stitched together. I was honestly a little worried that the seams wouldn't be able to take that sort of stress, but they hold up beautifully!

Here is the bodice on the dress form. The guards are thin wool twill tape, hand-applied in a pattern taken from various Campi paintings:


12370458.jpg by silverstah, on Flickr


12373859.jpg by silverstah, on Flickr


And... this is where fitting photos start getting a little sparse. Here, the skirt has been cartridge pleated onto the bodice. Sleeves are done in a lovely herringbone twill linen, lined in lightweight linen. Here I haven't added the lacing points, and you can see that my eyelets are a bit off. Sad


163438 by silverstah, on Flickr


163352 by silverstah, on Flickr



And - the finished product! The base dress is entirely hand-sewn with silk thread, all interior seams fully finished. I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. I still have problems getting the lacing holes on the curved-front bodices to line up properly - something I need to work on. But other than that, I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. Constructive critique is always welcome.


rust-colored working class - front by silverstah, on Flickr


Rust-colored working class - closeup by silverstah, on Flickr


rust-colored working class - back by silverstah, on Flickr


rust-colored working class - side front by silverstah, on Flickr





« Last Edit: April 16, 2013 04:39:54 PM by meleriffic » THIS ROCKS   Logged

http://feelingsheepish.etsy.com - Hand painted and dyed rovings for spinning
http://www.silverstah.com - Historical and Fantasy Clothing
http://silverstah.blogspot.com - Law school, sewing, married life, and general gabbing about life
Brackish Potato
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2011 09:08:40 AM »

This is amazing! You have so much talent!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

My Wists.

"Oh, the thinks you can think up if only you try!" -Dr. Seuss
kcartwright856
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2011 09:28:34 AM »

VERY nice!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

when_im_sixty4
Perpetually awkward
Offline Offline

Posts: 936
Joined: 16-Dec-2006

Craft Big, Dream Bigger!


View Profile WWW
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2011 10:30:46 AM »

This is incredible! You seriously must have zen-like patience to do all that hand sewing- I get frustrated with small hand embroidered projects! I bow down to your amazing skill!  Grin
THIS ROCKS   Logged

"[crafting] fills my days,
not to mention the living room, bedroom, and closets."
Wulf
Friend of Craftster Friend of Craftster

Offline Offline

Posts: 3453
Joined: 07-Oct-2009

Smalltacular is bestter.


View Profile WWW
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2011 10:55:57 AM »

This is really beautiful, and your workmanship is lovely. It's so nice to see someone who cares about hand-work.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

KnightTemplar
Offline Offline

Posts: 182
Joined: 24-Nov-2010

I'm a ninja zombie bunny robot princess.


View Profile
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2011 11:08:58 AM »

I love it! You hand sewed the whole thing?  amazing! I'm very impressed.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

To be a saint is the exception, but to be upright is the rule. err, falter, sin, but be upright.

I craft, and live in my spare time.
Ludi
Friend of Craftster Friend of Craftster

May the Ghost Squid be with you.
Offline Offline

Posts: 11936
Joined: 06-Jan-2008


View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2011 12:10:39 PM »

Beautiful!  Would love to see some nice portraits of you in it, you have the perfect face for it.   Smiley   Love all the attention to detail.

THIS ROCKS   Logged

"We can have anything we want, because we can make it." - RovingAnarchist

http://ernestthesiger.org/
http://immenseminiatures.com/
graverobbergirl
« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2011 04:06:04 PM »

Wow. That is SO much work. The end result looks lovely, and very accurate (in a way machine pieced costumes would fail to capture).

Brava!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

"Duct tape? That stuff's a rip-off! I make my own tape."-Joe Garrelli, Newsradio

My Etsy


Just Another Crafting Blog
embercostumer
« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2011 04:07:20 PM »

All that hand sewing is intense!! Nice work! I like how neat your pleats are on the skirt too. Mine always look like a bunched up mess!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Check out my website: www.embercostumes.com
I Sew Cute
Jewelry and Trinkets Moderator
Friend of Craftster Friend of Craftster

I'm a Fanatic Friend of Craftster!
Offline Offline

Posts: 8166
Joined: 08-Apr-2008

Take me to the kittens!!! >^.^<


View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2011 12:08:02 PM »

This is amazing! I can't imagine the hours that went into it!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Check out Trinkets & Jewelry! Wink
pinterest
blog
twitter
etsy
Bakaness
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2011 04:19:40 PM »

Holy crap you hand-sewed *internal* seams? O_O That's dedication. I applaud you. Also, the dress is beautiful. Wink
THIS ROCKS   Logged
GoldfishGirl
Offline Offline

Posts: 1106
Joined: 19-Feb-2005

Amorphous Big Red Monster


View Profile WWW
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2011 08:25:33 PM »

That's lovely. You do great work!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

My Wists:  http://www.wists.com/goldfishgirl

I'm always up for Personal Swaps! I can knit and sew. What can you do? Let's trade!
LadyUranus
Only Member of Team Awesome
Offline Offline

Posts: 102
Joined: 15-Dec-2006


View Profile WWW
« Reply #12 on: March 07, 2011 12:28:31 AM »

This is fantastic! you did a great job with the grommet-holes-- that's always my source of frustration. I should try doing a hemp-cord bodice; is it more comfortable than plastic or steel boning?
THIS ROCKS   Logged
badpuppy
Offline Offline

Posts: 425
Joined: 10-Aug-2008

It's a fine line between 'hobby' & 'mental illness


View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2011 06:27:01 AM »

"Holy crap!" was what came to mind when I saw this, and I see I'm not the only one with this reaction. Smiley  This is beautiful work, with amazing attention to detail.  Need I even point out that THIS ROCKS!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

A-ok with personal swaps.

Attempting my first quilt.  English paper piecing.  Sewing together 900 hexagons.
Mrs Tumble
« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2011 10:59:27 AM »

Wow! Just wow!
THIS ROCKS   Logged
ChainCrafts
Archaic Artisan
Offline Offline

Posts: 78
Joined: 07-Mar-2011

The Nyckelharpa is a lovely, strange beast!


View Profile WWW
« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2011 07:51:02 PM »

Truly excellent work!!!!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

MASCmanik
Offline Offline

Posts: 148
Joined: 28-Feb-2011

Crazy is my sustenance.


View Profile
« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2011 08:39:12 PM »

Wonderful!  Amazing!  Super-de-duper! And I say this not only as an admirer, but as a fellow seamstress (I bow to your skill and patience) and (former?) SCA member myself.  You make me regret I never had the patience to try to recreate a period piece myself.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Bubbles create rainbows through positive interference.
silverstah
« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2011 10:49:15 AM »

Wow, thanks guys! Smiley

@LadyUranus - Personally, I find the hemp boning WAY more comfortable than steel or cable ties.  It's more flexible, but is still supportive.  It seems to be more appropriate for cultures that have a rounded bust shape, such as the German/Italian Renaissance periods.  English/Spanish/French Renaissance have that more conical shape to the torso, and I don't think hemp boning would work for that - you need something more rigid.

THIS ROCKS   Logged

http://feelingsheepish.etsy.com - Hand painted and dyed rovings for spinning
http://www.silverstah.com - Historical and Fantasy Clothing
http://silverstah.blogspot.com - Law school, sewing, married life, and general gabbing about life
rottenlittleboys
Offline Offline

Posts: 2326
Joined: 26-Jul-2005

Inspiration without application is moot.


View Profile WWW
« Reply #18 on: March 13, 2011 03:10:18 PM »

I love all of your works. Great job.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

BadWolf
« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2011 06:07:21 PM »

That is truly incredible
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Ex_Gratia
Offline Offline

Posts: 486
Joined: 15-Feb-2009

I sew therefore I am


View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #20 on: March 14, 2011 04:52:16 PM »

nice, and admirable hand sewing. I don't have that kind of patience.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Visit my etsy please! I'd love to have feedback from other crafters!
http://www.etsy.com/shop/TheFlippantFlapper?ref=ss_profile
spaz2phreek
« Reply #21 on: March 15, 2011 04:12:24 PM »

Holy McMoly.....I would have said "great job" even if it had been all machine sewn but all that hand sewing...goodness gracious. I used to go to Ren Faires and each year I tried for a little more historical accuracy. And from the first year to the next, I totally did. Then I decided it would require more dedication than I had. So yeah, I'm super impressed.

 
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Craft till it hurts.
sapphire_chan
« Reply #22 on: March 15, 2011 06:53:40 PM »

It's fantastic!


And please note that my next question doesn't change how awesome your work and reconstruction is in anyway.

What painting did you base the dress off?

background:
This is the second Italian working dress I've seen done from Campi's paintings and in the painting the other lady posted, everything was super detailed, but there wasn't the distinctive pleating of a cartridge pleated waist, and the gathers came out of the skirt in a totally different way than I've seen in cartridge skirts.

So I'm thinking either there was something else going on, or the lady was actually using a different picture than she showed.
THIS ROCKS   Logged
sapphire_chan
« Reply #23 on: March 15, 2011 06:59:00 PM »

http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk19.html

And there it is.
THIS ROCKS   Logged
desm88
« Reply #24 on: March 18, 2011 02:54:46 PM »

What a great ensemble! I can't imagine hand sewing that whole thing, and it turned out spectacularly!!!
I forget what it's called, but are you planning to add the shoulder pieces that cover the laces? Also black work around the neck would really make it pop in my opinion.
But seriously, these are just further unnecessary additions to an already amazing piece of work.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2011 02:55:23 PM by desm88 » THIS ROCKS   Logged
silverstah
« Reply #25 on: March 18, 2011 08:20:26 PM »

@sapphire_chan - the dress isn't based off of one particular Campi painting, but rather it takes elements from quite a few of them.  His 'Kitchen' (the first painting on the writeup page linked below) has a good view of some of the women's waists from the back:

http://silverstah.com/campi2.html

The pleats in those women's skirts seem fuller, more even and rounder than just gathering - so I've always used cartridge pleats on my working class Italian dresses. Smiley

THIS ROCKS   Logged

http://feelingsheepish.etsy.com - Hand painted and dyed rovings for spinning
http://www.silverstah.com - Historical and Fantasy Clothing
http://silverstah.blogspot.com - Law school, sewing, married life, and general gabbing about life
silverstah
« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2011 08:25:31 PM »

@desm88 - I"m a sucker for some nice blackwork, but unfortunately it dosen't seem common for working-class Italian women, based on my research.  The same goes for epaulets or other shoulder treatment - all the paintings I used in my research show just a plain shoulder strap. 

http://silverstah.com/campi2.html

Cheers!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

http://feelingsheepish.etsy.com - Hand painted and dyed rovings for spinning
http://www.silverstah.com - Historical and Fantasy Clothing
http://silverstah.blogspot.com - Law school, sewing, married life, and general gabbing about life
Schlrte
Tutorial Contributor

Offline Offline

Posts: 214
Joined: 20-Mar-2011


View Profile WWW
« Reply #27 on: March 20, 2011 04:00:29 AM »

This looks absolutly professional! WOW.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

I am from germany, so PLEASE excuse my bad english! Thanks!

My Blog: http://frauschloerte.de
facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Frau-Schl%C3%B6rte/599259393465381
twitter: http://www.twitter.com/Schloerte
Gr33nT3a
« Reply #28 on: March 23, 2011 04:04:24 AM »

I couldn't even begin to imagine all that hand sewing. I love the color of the fabrics you chose as well.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

Běifāng yǒu jiārn, jush r dl. Y g qīng rn chng, zi g qīng rn gu. Nng b zhī qīng chng yǔ qīng gu. Jiārn nn zi d.
北方有佳人,绝世而独立。一顾倾人城,再顾倾人国。宁不知倾城与倾国。佳人难再得。
kategirl
Friend of Craftster Friend of Craftster

queen of awkward
Offline Offline

Posts: 4318
Joined: 01-Aug-2003

View Profile WWW
« Reply #29 on: April 04, 2011 07:25:35 PM »

LOVE.  Seriously, that's all I can say.

My friends and I do ren fairs, but are a band of pirates and are not historically accurate by a long shot (we're not "skull and crossbones"/Johnny Depp type pirates, but definitely not authentic).  When my boyfriend (now husband) and I first started going I wanted to make one similar to this, but ended up getting dragged the pirate route instead.  Now I want to again!
THIS ROCKS   Logged

jungrrl
Tutorial Contributor

Friend of Craftster Friend of Craftster

I'm a portmanteau.
Offline Offline

Posts: 18074
Joined: 17-Jun-2004
Former Full-time Craftster-er


View Profile WWW
« Reply #30 on: January 23, 2012 11:27:20 AM »

Congrats!!

You're a Craftster Best of 2011 Winner!

Craftster Best of 2011 Winner

Feel free to use this badge as your avatar!
If you'd like to use it as a badge on your personal website or blog, you can grab the full code at the bottom of this page.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

silverstah
« Reply #31 on: January 23, 2012 12:31:10 PM »

Gosh, thank you!  THAT was a pleasant surprise!  Grin
THIS ROCKS   Logged

http://feelingsheepish.etsy.com - Hand painted and dyed rovings for spinning
http://www.silverstah.com - Historical and Fantasy Clothing
http://silverstah.blogspot.com - Law school, sewing, married life, and general gabbing about life
ScrappySue
Tutorial Contributor

Offline Offline

Posts: 3966
Joined: 23-Aug-2007

Oh, not you. We named the monkey Jack.


View Profile
« Reply #32 on: January 24, 2012 01:44:02 AM »

wow, I am so glad this popped up again, because i missed it the first time around.
Wow, I love handsewing, but this is truly spectacular.
Thanks so much for sharing
S
THIS ROCKS   Logged

I've started a wist!
http://wists.com/scrappysue
working on the Teesha Moore craftalong
Destashing the craft room
Threads you might like:
Pages: 1 2 3 4 [All] Jump to page:
  Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
 
Jump to:  



FacebookTwitterPinterest
only results with images
include swap threads
advanced search



Latest Blog Articles
July 20th: National Moon Day
Tute Tuesday: Neapolitan Ice Cream Scrub
Finding Frida Kahlo

Comparison Shopping




Support Craftster
Become a
Friend of Craftster

Buy Craftster Swag
Buy Craft Supplies
Comparison Shopping

Craftster heartily thanks the following peeps...
Moderators

Follow Craftster...






Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Copyright ©2003-2017, Craftster.org an Internet Brands company.