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Topic: 16th c. Italian Working class ensemble - Renaissance  (Read 17832 times)
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« on: March 05, 2011 08:55:32 AM »

rust-colored working class - side front by silverstah, on Flickr

This the end product of a project that I've been working on for... a while, off and on.  I'm a law student, so sewing time tends to be very scattered. Smiley

My primary area of interest in the SCA is Italian working-class clothing - I'm a worker-bee in the SCA, so it seems appropriate to be wearing worker-bee clothing. Smiley

I've been working with this style for a while - tweaking my technique and trying to look like I've stepped out of a portrait.  Each time I make one, I feel like I'm getting closer....

Here are the last two incarnations:


And here's the current incarnation - done in 100% wool gabardine, completely hand sewn with silk thread. Guards are black wool twill tape. Sleeves in green herringbone linen, lined in plain white linen. Lacing points for sleeves are commercial cotton cord with bolo tie points - they will be eventually replaced with lucetted cord with homemade agilets. :

I started out with the support layer - I chose to do a corded corset, done in two layers of medium weight linen and boned with hemp cord. I feel like this gives the proper support, and shapes the bust to the Italian silhouette. Love that curved bust!

snapshot(9) by silverstah, on Flickr

I started by fitting the basic bodice block - I use a curved-front seam to give the bust a nice gentle slope. The bodice is self-supporting, even without the corded corset underneath.

snapshot(Cool by silverstah, on Flickr

snapshot(6) by silverstah, on Flickr

The bodice is done in a wool gabardine, lined in two layers of medium weight linen. The dress is entirely hand-sewn - each bodice piece was finished and then whip-stitched together. I was honestly a little worried that the seams wouldn't be able to take that sort of stress, but they hold up beautifully!

Here is the bodice on the dress form. The guards are thin wool twill tape, hand-applied in a pattern taken from various Campi paintings:

12370458.jpg by silverstah, on Flickr

12373859.jpg by silverstah, on Flickr

And... this is where fitting photos start getting a little sparse. Here, the skirt has been cartridge pleated onto the bodice. Sleeves are done in a lovely herringbone twill linen, lined in lightweight linen. Here I haven't added the lacing points, and you can see that my eyelets are a bit off. Sad

163438 by silverstah, on Flickr

163352 by silverstah, on Flickr

And - the finished product! The base dress is entirely hand-sewn with silk thread, all interior seams fully finished. I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. I still have problems getting the lacing holes on the curved-front bodices to line up properly - something I need to work on. But other than that, I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. Constructive critique is always welcome.

rust-colored working class - front by silverstah, on Flickr

Rust-colored working class - closeup by silverstah, on Flickr

rust-colored working class - back by silverstah, on Flickr

rust-colored working class - side front by silverstah, on Flickr

« Last Edit: April 16, 2013 04:39:54 PM by meleriffic » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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http://www.silverstah.com - Historical and Fantasy Clothing
http://silverstah.blogspot.com - Law school, sewing, married life, and general gabbing about life
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« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2011 09:08:40 AM »

This is amazing! You have so much talent!

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« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2011 09:28:34 AM »

VERY nice!

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« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2011 10:30:46 AM »

This is incredible! You seriously must have zen-like patience to do all that hand sewing- I get frustrated with small hand embroidered projects! I bow down to your amazing skill!  Grin

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« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2011 10:55:57 AM »

This is really beautiful, and your workmanship is lovely. It's so nice to see someone who cares about hand-work.

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« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2011 11:08:58 AM »

I love it! You hand sewed the whole thing?  amazing! I'm very impressed.

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« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2011 12:10:39 PM »

Beautiful!  Would love to see some nice portraits of you in it, you have the perfect face for it.   Smiley   Love all the attention to detail.


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« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2011 04:06:04 PM »

Wow. That is SO much work. The end result looks lovely, and very accurate (in a way machine pieced costumes would fail to capture).


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« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2011 04:07:20 PM »

All that hand sewing is intense!! Nice work! I like how neat your pleats are on the skirt too. Mine always look like a bunched up mess!

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« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2011 12:08:02 PM »

This is amazing! I can't imagine the hours that went into it!

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