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Topic: Problems with Patternmaking for Fashion Design 4th edition  (Read 1655 times)
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« on: December 12, 2010 11:10:23 PM »


I bought the book years ago and now I've finally managed to try it!
To keep things short: I have a dress form that pretty much has all of my measurements which is great. I carefully measured everything and created the basic bodice. I had to redo it and when I finally thought I was done I had to correct the dart depth and the shoulder.
The skirt was a complete disaster! I had a basic skirt pattern made for my figure by my boss and it had absolutely no darts in the front and only two darts in the back. I was a bit surprised that the book wants two darts in front (I have a flat belly). The skirt ended up looking like a balloon, because of the two darts and the dart intake.

I don't want to rant, because this book gives a lot of information on how to create pretty much any pattern you want and I don't want to give up. But I cannot proceed without the proper basic patterns.
So anyone else had problems like I did?

Help Huh

« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2010 05:25:32 PM »

I've had similar problems with other drafting books. I think the issue is that a few measurements are just not sufficient to get a sense of the body shape. If the basic slopers are close enough, you could always fit it until it's better. Unfortunately, as with everything, even drafting your own patterns will not guarantee a perfect fit the first time. Though, if the sloper is way off, you might consider a different method or even draping a sloper instead (and if you're curious on how to drape a skirt sloper, here's an article on it: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4668/drape-a-skirt-sloper ) Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of drafting your own patterns!  Smiley
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2010 10:52:48 PM »

Thanks a lot for your information and the link. It makes me feel a little better that I'm not the only one out there.  Grin
I will definitely try draping the skirt. That was my next thought actually ,I just had no idea how to do it.

Thanks again!

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« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2010 11:51:23 AM »

If you have the dress form that is your measurements and shape, then I would suggest draping. I would not normally suggest draping, but it takes atleast 3 fits and changes with flat pattern unless you are draping for a standard form like the measurements in the book.

Try http://dedredhed.deviantart.com/art/Basic-Bodice-Drape-Front-29110482 and click download image on the right.

Once you have your basic, trace it onto paper and learn how to manipulate the darts. There is a 1/4 scale basic pattern in the back that you can copy and play with the darts before messing with your basic.

Trace your basic onto oaktag or posterboard so that you can easily trace around it when creating new styles. I like doing the new styles on paper about the weight of printer paper. They don't rip, but you can still trace through it and fold in the darts. You can also roll it up and keep your projects in cardboard postal mail tubes or plastic art tubes. I got my paper at hobby lobby and my oaktag from southstar supply, but the oaktag is an investment. Do NOT get paper that is slick. You will want to be drawing with pencil and pencil doesn't work well on slick paper. Also, pick up a roll of matte clear tape while you're at it for the same reason.

The main reason there are darts on the front of the skirt are because it is supposed to go up to your waist, your true waist. You are also supposed to have the posture of the dress form. Do you have any back pain? I found out that I was unconsciously arching my lower back too much. I looked like #4 in this picture. which is from Dr. Bookspan Once I did the stretches that took the pressure off my back my clothes fit better.

You don't have to have deep darts, but you will want to draw in where they are supposed to be because this is your princess line and you will be manipulating the darts to make different skirt shapes.

Good Luck!
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2010 12:30:36 PM »

I think I solved the problem! I tried draping,but for some reason it turned out looking weird and it didn't fit well either.

Since the book was expensive I wanted to make it work somehow. I've spent hours drafting, sewing ,throwing it away, drafting  Tongue.... .So this time I thought "Okay, so if this book doesn't accept the measurements I took from me and my form, I will take their measurements"
I measured my bust, waist and hip and looked up the Standard Measurement Chart. Size 10 was closest to my measurements and finally I got a well fitting bodice without having to correct a lot. I corrected the side seam and I will widen the armhole. Other than a few little corrections everything sits perfect! I am amazed. This book does work, but it's super picky about correct measurements. I think I would suggest this to all who struggle with this exact same problem: Choose a standard size closest to yours and make a few corrections if necessary. I'm so relieved...

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