A Crafts Community For Craft Ideas & DIY Projects - Craftster.org
Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map
Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
News from Internet Brands:
Closing the Craftster Community on December 19, 2019.
Read the details here.
Total Members: 318,838
Currently Running With Scissors:
374 Guests and 12 Users
Home Craftster Community Crafting Articles Craft Tutorials My Craftster Crafting Calendar City Guides

Pages: 1 2 [All]
Jump to page:
  Show Images Only     Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
Topic: expirementing with subtraction cutting  (Read 11280 times)
Tags for this thread:  Add new tag
Share the love... Pin it Submit to reddit  
Offline Offline

Posts: 80
Joined: 02-Jul-2005

yeah...I'm that sexy

View Profile WWW
« on: November 16, 2010 01:22:54 AM »

so, several months ago i discovered Julian Roberts and his low waste method of pattern drafting and dress making. his work is lumpy and hideous but the method is fascinating. and whats even more fun is if you reset the clock on your computer to Wednesday between 10am and 8pm you can watch his lectures on part of the theory and watch him make a lumpy red dress.

anyway, somebody by the name of Sandra Ericson took the class and designed this pyramid dress based on his methods and i stared and stared at it for hours until i understood what was going on and decided it was the most graceful thing done with Julian Roberts method and i had to have something similar.

so after obsessing over every mention of Julian Roberts subtraction cutting on google i decided i should be able to mesh his method with one of the patterns that waits eagerly in my collection. so, here's the basics of my method. i took mcalls M5232 view A and cut it out in newspaper so i had a newspaper piece for each piece of fabric i would normally cut out. i didn't cut out the full length of the piece but focused on the torso down to approximately my bellybutton or hip, its not too important though, everything that you don't cut out becomes automatically extra voluminous.  

I had about 3yds of fabric that i bought ages ago at denver fabrics for super cheap, my RA decided to have splatter paint day and i attacked my fabric. that was fun, i have a blue spot on my floor i need to clean before move out day though. adds a nice touch to the fabric. i took my 3?yds and split in half and stitched it together so it more closely resembles a square instead of a super long rectangle.

all this did not exactly happen in this order. the newspaper bit happened a bit closer to what i'm gonna talk about next. i spread the fabric out flat in the largest bit of floor my dorm has and carefully (or not) arranged my pattern pieces so they weren't so far from the edge that the dress would be too long but not so close that i would have immodestly short bits of dress in places. and i pinned everything alot. when i was finished i had this

so here's the tricky part, when you cut you aren't cutting out the whole piece of pattern, you cut all but the bottom edge. then when you are done cutting out all these flaps you cut between one piece and the next so you kinda end up cutting one really funny shaped hole out the middle. i'll try and explain that better another time, its getting late and i'm trying to finish this post. heres approximately what it looks like with missing pieces, i had the hardest time getting it to lie flat this time but trust me, its one hole.

then you line seams up closest to your face. ex, sew from armpit to hip. and just nudge the funny seams together as you go. its ok if the seams are wonky because the whole dress is gonna be funny.

out of the minor bits of scrap i had left i made slightly bias tape (not quite 45 degrees but not on the grain either) and used that to hem the armpits, neckline, and assist with putting in the zipper.

here's the shortest bit of the dress

the pattern calls for 3 1/2 yds for a dress that would fit me and the pattern makes a shorter dress with much less fluff. i had about that much fabric and ended up with at least 50% more dress. it took me much less time than normal to make this dress when you cut all the time involved in procrastinating. i'm gonna experiment with this a bit more over thanksgiving break, she what how much dress i can get out of not enough fabric. or see how much dress i end up with if i have far too much fabric.

oh, and julian says his method can be applied to any garment but so far i've only seen dresses and 2 or 3 blouses. i wanna see someone apply his ridiculous lumpy tube to a sleeve or something.

oh, and if i get better pictures, i'll replace things
« Last Edit: November 16, 2010 01:27:06 AM by mangospanker » THIS ROCKS   Logged
Global Moderator
Guest Blogger
Bath and Beauty Moderator
Quilting Moderator

Tutorial Contributor

Soapmakers do it with bubbles
Offline Offline

Posts: 20148
Joined: 25-Apr-2007

Don't be a soap licker

View Profile WWW
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2010 01:36:11 AM »

I haven't heard of that method before! It sounds really interesting although I can't wrap my mind around it right now! Your dress looks great!

Love to cook, have an overflowing pantry, or want to save a little money on your grocery bill?
Join the Pantry Challenge Cookalong!

Instagram: Soapsbymaremare
Tutorial Contributor

Offline Offline

Posts: 3615
Joined: 09-Jun-2010

It's a long story.

View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2010 07:54:52 AM »

Fascinating! I'm going to be researching this one for sure!
Tutorial Contributor

crazy crafty momma
Offline Offline

Posts: 12057
Joined: 04-Sep-2008

'darn kids, they were pesky from the start' D. Lee

View Profile WWW
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2010 09:52:05 AM »

I'm completely confused. but I suppose I may just need to go look it up and research it myself.
The dress looks great, and super cute though!  even if I don't understand how you put it together Wink

I wrote a book!!! A book on spinning! You can find it here: The Trifecta of Hand Spun Yarn
 website with links to everything!

Keep c-ster going
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2010 09:59:05 AM »

Awesome! I can't believe how you've taken his principles and turned it into something so practical! I do like the way he plays with very organic shapes, though. I recently rediscovered his work myself (through Fashion Incubator, again), and boy was I MAD to discover he'd taken down his mini-classes! ARGH, I shoulda taken screenshots of everything the first time around...

Speaking of Fashion Incubator, have you seen this?


I really want to make one or more of Sevin-Doering's dresses! *swoon*

Offline Offline

Posts: 1586
Joined: 11-Jun-2009

Baby it's cold outside...

View Profile WWW
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2010 11:00:05 AM »

Very interesting thought in the technique... not so sure I understand the extra holes that he cuts out to form the (second?) tube where the body would fit through, but I liked the lay of the dress right after he sewed the top up and before he started cutting the extra holes. I think you're awesome for attempting this technique and for sharing it with us ^_^ The dress looks very pretty and funky and you look wonderful in it! Great job!

Crafter turned Soaper
Been away from Craftster for far too long Sad I miss this crafty community!
Simple & Clean Soapery on FB
Simple & Clean Soapery on etsy
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2010 04:01:53 PM »

It took me some time to recognize the pieces in the second picture, but I think I got it now Wink
The dress looks fantastic!
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2011 07:01:08 AM »

Where you able to make this dress by only looking at the videos? Can you tell more about it? I am amazed. Did you find it really practical or it is one of those clothes design only for runways. Smiley thanks!
Offline Offline

Posts: 750
Joined: 09-Sep-2007

But it's my BIRTHDAY tomorrow!

View Profile WWW
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2011 10:42:57 AM »

That's crazy! They sure never taught us this in fashion school. But what I don't understand is, is the point to just have no scraps? Because I could make a dress with less fabric, so it's not about using less yardage, just using it all?

Lets all go to Jack Taylor's to celebrate!
Offline Offline

Posts: 80
Joined: 02-Jul-2005

yeah...I'm that sexy

View Profile WWW
« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2011 11:04:24 PM »

@rookiecrafter. i watched the videos obsessively. on the wedensday website there is a video of his standard lecture in which he introduces the idea and makes a dress using free hand cutting from start to finish. its very fast but he does use swap outs. the dress i made i not using the exact technique that he uses because i find his tube technique makes impractically lumpy and ugly dresses. this dress was constructed while thinking about composing the dress by looking at it from the top down rather than from a front/back view.

the idea is to have less scraps/waste because the amount of scrap that ends up in landfills from standard clothing production is silly really. the next time you make something consider weighing the fabric before you cut into it and when you are done, weigh your scrap. wouldn't it be nice if you could have purchased less material in the first place to get a similar garment?
Offline Offline

Posts: 26
Joined: 25-Feb-2006

One day I'm gonna dig my way outa this cage.

View Profile
« Reply #10 on: April 08, 2011 03:28:49 PM »

Cool dress and very interesting technique!  Thanks for posting this.
Glittery Macabre
Offline Offline

Posts: 3818
Joined: 13-Oct-2004

Nat 20! Woot!

View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2012 06:48:19 PM »

Amazing dress with the technique. It's inspiring to see this kind of pattern piecing.

~*My Etsy Shop*~
I'm a level 9 rouge, b***h!
I do personal swaps!
Threads you might like:
Pages: 1 2 [All] Jump to page:
  Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
Jump to:  

only results with images
include swap threads
advanced search
Crafting Ideas
Crafting How-Tos
Crafting Ideas
Crafting Topics

Latest Blog Articles
Tute Tuesday: Christmas Crack
Meal Prep Monday: Black Eyed Pea and Squash Soup
Craftster Featured Projects - Dedicated to the People Who Made It

Craftster heartily thanks the following peeps...

Follow Craftster...

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Privacy Policy | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map

Copyright ©2003-2017, Craftster.org, © 2009-2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands