A Crafts Community For Craft Ideas & DIY Projects - Craftster.org
Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map
Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
News from Internet Brands:
Closing the Craftster Community on December 19, 2019.
Read the details here.
Total Members: 318,843
Currently Running With Scissors:
228 Guests and 8 Users
Home Craftster Community Crafting Articles Craft Tutorials My Craftster Crafting Calendar City Guides

Pages: [1]
Jump to page:
  Show Images Only     Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
Topic: Fused glass--double iridized sandwich technique--TUTORIAL  (Read 30503 times)
Tags for this thread: tutorial , fused_glass , etched_glass  Add new tag
Share the love... Pin it Submit to reddit  
Offline Offline

Posts: 1388
Joined: 15-Feb-2009

Will work for peer approval

View Profile WWW
« on: September 19, 2010 09:29:08 AM »

I have had great success with "the double iridized sandwich technique," so I thought I'd share what I know with text and pictures.

What you'll need (in addition to a kiln with at least a 12" kiln shelf):
  • a sponge brush
  • an exacto knife
  • Armour Etch
  • rubber and/or latex/non-latex gloves
  • a piece of newspaper
  • painter's tape or contact paper
  • carbon paper
  • two pieces of iridized glass--at least one clear piece

Step 1--Design:
Select a design. The best designs for this technique are line drawings or wood cut designs. I chose an apple cut in half. Using Corel Painter Essentials 4 or whichever program you're comfortable with, open your design, make sure it's the right size for whatever project you're making, and print it out.

Next, select the design in your program and flip it so that you get a symmetrical image and print it out.

NOTE: Do this step even if you think your design appears to be perfectly symmetrical. Sometimes there are subtle differences that your eye may not pick up.

Do an initial layout.

NOTE: It is VERY IMPORTANT that you etch at least 1/4" edge all the way around the glass you're working on. The two pieces of iridized glass will NOT fuse if the edges are not etched. When you are planning your layout, place your design at least 1/4" away from the edge of the glass.

Cut a slightly large piece of carbon paper than your design.

This will allow you to secure the carbon paper, as well as the design, to your tracing surface so that the carbon paper doesn't scrunch or move while you're tracing.

Apply painter's tape or contact paper to the iridized side of the glass. If you're not sure which side is iridized (it's sometimes difficult to tell on clear iridized glass), run your finger across the surface--the iridized side feels slightly rougher or not as slick as the non-iridized side.

I prefer painter's tape because it leaves no residue on the glass and holds your traced design better than contact paper. You can use a layer of contact paper (make sure there are no bubbles!) with a layer of painter's tape on top. Cover the entire surface of the glass. Using your nail or a ruler, press down on the entire surface to ensure there are no bubbles.

Place your design and carbon paper on the taped glass allowing at least 1/4" inch from the edge of the glass.

Tape down the design and carbon paper on the first piece of glass, then tape down the design and carbon paper on the second piece of glass making certain that the second piece is a mirror image of the first piece.

Measure, measure, measure!

Step 2--Tracing and Cutting:
Trace around the design with a stylus, pencil, or pen. I prefer a colored pen so that I can see where I've traced. Also, if I want to reproduce this design in the future, I'll be able to tell what I traced before.

Remove the design and carbon paper.

I recommend cutting out the design on the clear piece of glass first. This way, once the design is cut out, you'll be able to do a final check on the mirror image design before cutting that piece out.

Use an exacto knife or craft knife (any sharp knife will do) to cut around your design.

If the knife snags on the painter's tape or contact paper, change the blade!

Here is what your design should look like after you finish with the knife, but before you start peeling the excess tape:

Start peeling the tape away from the areas that will be etched.

Use the point of the knife blade to raise difficult to reach pieces to be peeled away.

Check your work! Turn the first cut and peeled piece (hopefully you've done the clear piece first) upside down and lay it on top of the as yet untraced piece to check that you have good alignment.

Looking good!

Trace and cut around the design on the other piece of iridized glass. NOTE: You don't have to trace and cut the same level of detail on both piece of glass. This allows you to plan for a small level of shading on your final piece.

Both pieces cut out:

Check your work one last time before etching. You can make some final adjustment to your work if necessary.

Step 3--Etching:
Gather your essentials: gloves, foam brush, a piece of newspaper, Armour Etch, the pieces you're etching.

Shake that Armour Etch up! When you're finished shaking it, shake it some more!

Put the glass, iridized (taped) side up, on the newspaper. Put your gloves on. Hold your nose (Armour Etch smells mildly rotten) and prepare to etch. And please, don't allow any children or pets in the room from this point until you wash the creme off. Armour Etch can be dangerous if not used properly. Read the label and take heed!

Brush the Armour Etch on, first up and down, then side to side, then in little swirlies. This ensures complete coverage.

Really goop it on. One thin coat will not achieve the desired effect. And when I say goop it on, I mean put it on like you'd put icing on a kid's birthday cake! I used a little more than half of a 10 oz. bottle of Armour Etch. (HINT: Buy Armour Etch on sale. I buy mine at Michael's Craft Store, and whenever I get a 40% or 50% coupon, I use it to buy Armour Etch.)

Put it on this thick:

Cover up the pieces with a box. The last thing you want is someone thinking there's some cake frosting just lying around in your work space.

Wait 2 (two) hours. Yes. Two hours. Don't go by the label! I have done some experiments with other pieces of iridized glass and in order to etch off the iridized coating, you need at least two hours.

Rinse off the Armour Etch (has it been at least two hours?) I wear slightly heavier rubber gloves for this step, because the sharp edges of the glass will easily slice up the thinner gloves I use for etching. (Also, make sure you throw the newspaper away.)

The Armour Etch really sticks to the etched surface. Use lots and lots of water and give it a good rub to get it all off.

Peel the tape off.

Spray both pieces of glass with a non-ammonia cleaner and wipe them dry with paper towels.

This is what a good etch looks like:

You'll notice there are some sparklies around the apple. This amount of remaining iridescent coating is fine for our purposes. If there's more than this, you can apply more Armour Etch and wait another 2 hours.

Put the two pieces together and your project is ready for a full fuse in the kiln!

This is a picture of the final product with some embellishments. The seeds and stem are pieces of copper foil which were applied prior to the full fuse. The words were written on the glass with Glassline Paint just prior to slumping in the kiln.

Enjoy! I hope this was clear. If you have any suggestions or corrections, send me a personal message (PM).

« Last Edit: July 05, 2011 06:23:12 PM by grobarka59 » THIS ROCKS   Logged

My Etsy Shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/CrazyEyeFusedGlass
Friend me on Facebook: Crazy Eye Glass
Follow me on Twitter: CrazyEyeGlass
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2010 01:43:00 PM »

WOW! This is a great tutorial - thanks!!  Grin

Want to get notified instantly when someone adds a project of yours as their favorite? Support Craftster and unlock more features as a Friend of Craftster!
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2013 02:45:36 PM »

The final piece is a real work of art - I love it. I have tried etching iridized glass with no success - I guess I have not left it for long enough.
Offline Offline

Posts: 1388
Joined: 15-Feb-2009

Will work for peer approval

View Profile WWW
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2013 11:56:11 AM »

Thanks! You need to leave it on (and covered so it won't dry out) for at least 2 hours.

My Etsy Shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/CrazyEyeFusedGlass
Friend me on Facebook: Crazy Eye Glass
Follow me on Twitter: CrazyEyeGlass
Tutorial Contributor

Oy Vey!
Offline Offline

Posts: 10816
Joined: 18-Aug-2006
He says I color his world

View Profile
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2013 08:41:46 PM »

This is a great tutorial! I'm going to get it added to our list. Smiley

Proud Army Mom, Hoaah!!!
Help Fight Breast Cancer
Sewing in General Moderator
Tutorial Contributor

Offline Offline

Posts: 11863
Joined: 31-May-2010

View Profile WWW available for personal swaps
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2013 05:06:10 AM »

I don't do glass crafts at all and think this is a great tutorial!

Threads you might like:
Pages: [1] Jump to page:
  Send this topic  |  Print  |  Bookmark  
Jump to:  

only results with images
include swap threads
advanced search
Crafting Ideas
Crafting How-Tos
Crafting Ideas
Crafting Topics

Latest Blog Articles
Tute Tuesday: Christmas Crack
Meal Prep Monday: Black Eyed Pea and Squash Soup
Craftster Featured Projects - Dedicated to the People Who Made It

Craftster heartily thanks the following peeps...

Follow Craftster...

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Privacy Policy | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map

Copyright ©2003-2017, Craftster.org, © 2009-2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands