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Topic: Glass etching on curved surfaces  (Read 2934 times)
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« on: September 13, 2010 08:24:56 PM »

Hi all,

I tried etching for the first time tonight. I saw some of the awesome WoW Horde etched glasses on here, and decided to try and make some for my boyfriend for Christmas. I picked up some glasses at the dollar store. They unfortunately didn't have any glasses that were straight, up and down... they all curved in towards the bottom. The etching went pretty well, but since the glass was curved, I couldn't get the stencil to lay completely flat, which meant some bleeding. I tried to clean it up freehand and just made a bigger mess of things, so I'm going to have to start all over with new glasses Sad

Does anyone have any tips on how to avoid the gapping/bleeding on a curved surface?

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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2010 03:45:41 PM »

There are a couple of different techniques you could try.

* Put the image on the inside of the glass and trace around the image with fabric paint. You can peel or scrub the fabric paint off after you're done.

* Put blue painter's tape on the glass then a piece of carbon paper with your image on top (you can use contact paper, too, but it doesn't hold the traced image from the carbon paper well). Or you can use a sharpie to trace through the stencil onto the painter's tape.

Hope this helps!

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« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2010 02:50:20 PM »

Thanks very much for the tips Smiley  I think I may try the fabric paint next, as soon as I can get to the store for some!
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2010 08:28:44 PM »

Curved glasses have always been tricky for me. My first etching attempt was on a bowl and was, to say the least, frustrating. It may or may not have ended it's little bowl life in a satisfying shatter. But don't be like me!

The best recommendation is tape, especially painter's tape. The less sticky residue, the better. I did aforementioned bowl o'sad with Scotch tape, which only accelerated the tragedy...gooey bits in the fine details. Painter's tape does work well, especially in thin strips/small pieces. It depends on what you're making. I've never used carbon paper, though, as I prefer to freehand, but that's just a matter of taste (or stubbornness...).

Don't be afraid to readjust before committing, and don't be afraid to experiment. Once you do commit, go ahead and leave the goop on for longer than recommended - it won't hurt anything and will help to make the etching look more solid.

Good luck - can't wait to see some pictures *grins*
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