Precious Metal Clay

[wine_slut]

newbie here, and did search to see if there were any specific discussions about this before hand.

:takes a deep breath:

I'm about to embark on my first time PMC project, and I'm afraid I've read so many (too many?) explanations of how to patina. Can anyone help shed some light?

1. I bought liver of sulfur, but I bought it as a liquid solution. Most of the explanations I've read only talk about using the dry form. Is the 331-031 solution I have very strong? (I'd like to use a very dilute form, as per everything I've read). If it's strong, should I cut it with what--water? Something else?

2. Can anyone explain the relationship of LOS vs. ammonia to me? Some patina explanations mix ammonia WITH the LOS , other explanations suggest you use the amonia seperately. Is amonia only for irridescent effects? What works best with your experience?

And does the ammonia have to be clear, or can it be the sudsy type I found in the grocery store?

3. How important is warm/cold with this process? Most accounts I've read suggest that the piece (or the LOS) should be warm, but then are you also supposed to shock the piece in a cold water bath after each dip?

thanks for all of your advice!

<edited to thank whomever moved this to a more appropiate location>

[Valoir]

I used that pre-mixed solution, but I cannot remember if I diluted it with water.  It should say on the package. 

Sometimes people recommend adding a few drops of ammonia to a cup or two of solution, theoretically it brings out the colors.  I use the clear ammonia which shouldn't be difficult to find. 

I do think that heating the solution it to a warm temperature works best.  I warm it in the microwave, or if I am adding water, add warm water.

The other thing I noticed about the solution was that the unused solution (still in the container) went bad after about 6 months - it just turned things brown rather than getting the nice colors.  That's when I switched back to the lump form, because LOS works a lot better as a fresh solution. 

Just remember that it is totally unpredicatable and that depending on whether the piece is clean or has oils on it, the temperature, the freshness, etc. you will get different results.  You may also look at the ganoksin.com website.  Tons of jeweler-created questions and answers. 

Valerie/Valoir
www.valoirdesigns.com

[tcap]

Has anyone tried making silver jewelry using Art Clay? Here's a link:

http://www.firemountaingems.com/artclay.asp

I'm intrigued because it seems much easier to do than lost wax method, but I wonder if the finished result REALLY looks like silver. I'd hate to invest all the money in the starter kit and butane torch and then not really like the result.

[craftsurge]

Hi tcap

I have been using Art Clay for 6 months or so now and I really am liking it. here is a link to a similar thread:

https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=32157.0

You can get a mirror finish from art clay, here is one of my certification pieces:



It is not even fully buffed yet! This center of the pendant is a piece of dichroic glass. This was a real easy project and took only an hour or so!
Good luck! I hope you enjoy experimenting with it!

[Rylizbeth]

Hi tcap

I have been using Art Clay for 6 months or so now and I really am liking it. here is a link to a similar thread:

https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=32157.0

You can get a mirror finish from art clay, here is one of my certification pieces:



It is not even fully buffed yet! This center of the pendant is a piece of dichroic glass. This was a real easy project and took only an hour or so!
Good luck! I hope you enjoy experimenting with it!

How did you achieve such a beautifully smooth finish?

[craftsurge]

How did you achieve such a beautifully smooth finish?

Thanks!
This is a trick i learned from my instructor. You can use "Wet Ones" wet wipes to smooth the surface during the green stage (before it is fired). This really helps get it smooth.

[Rylizbeth]

How did you achieve such a beautifully smooth finish?

Thanks!
This is a trick i learned from my instructor. You can use "Wet Ones" wet wipes to smooth the surface during the green stage (before it is fired). This really helps get it smooth.

Thanks!

[Neigung]

I thought I read somewhere that it's necessary to tumble PMC pieces after they're fired to harden the metal.  Is this true?

[ClassyLassy]

nope, it's not necessary but it does help, regardless the end result from pmc tends to be softer than using sheet metal, so anything to make it stronger does help. i've notice with using it though, that i've only had problems with deforming or breaking when i either made something extremely thin or made rings. the thinner rings tended to form to the shape of my finger after A LOT of wear, but i didn't think it was necessarily a bad thing. but it's nothing to worry about if you're using it for something like a pendant or earrings where it won't have a lot of stress on it. the main reason i typically tumble my finished pieces is to speed up polishing. it makes quite a difference and is a lot less frustrating than sitting and rubbing and scratching at the piece! (i appreciate anything that keeps the blood pressure down) hope that helped some! 

[Tuff]

I fire mine in a kiln, but my friend bought a Hot Pot and it is awesome. I think it was $35, and the fluid is pretty inexpensive. There is no judgement involved, just light it and 10 or so minutes it is done. It takes me a few hours in my kiln from start to finish. With the torch you have to watch and there is very little forgiving. I think I'm going to buyn a hot pot even though I have a kiln.