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Topic: Why does my sewing machine only sew regular stitches if I sew fabric on the bias  (Read 737 times)
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« on: February 26, 2010 06:21:11 PM »

I was sewing this poly knit that only has a crosswise stretch when I noticed that the stitches were all in different lengths. I got a new ballpoint needle, but that did not solve the problem. I checked my threading a million times and checked the bobbin and tensions, but it still did not work. Then I sewed the fabric diagonally and the stitches were perfect! I can't sew my blouse diagonally and the pieces are already cut out. Does anyone know why this is happening and what I can do to solve this issue? Huh

Any info is greatly appreciated as I have a line to create for a show!
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« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2010 07:21:26 AM »

Its skipping stitches.  A ball point needle is to prvent the knit fibers from "running" (like stockings run) by spreading the fibers rather than piercing them. 

As the needle rises it froms a lop of thread under the stitch plate.  The hook picks up this look and wraps it around the bobbin thread thus forming a stitch.  On many snythethic knit fabrics, the materials is "slipery" and doesn't provide enough friction as the needle rises for there to be a good sized loop formed.  If the hook isn't set in close enough, it will miss this smaller loop and a skipped stitch will result.

A stretch needle has the lower portion offset so that it brings this loop closer to the hook, increasing the odds that a stitch will be made.  So, use a stretch needle to address this problem.

How to Choose a Sewing Machine Needle

Sew-Classic                                                                Sew-Classic  
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2010 10:52:15 AM »

In addition to changing your needle, you might be having a problem with the feed due to the stretchiness of the bias. Try stabilizing your fabric by putting plain old paper under the seam as you stitch. Any kind of paper will work; I have a friend who likes to use adding machine tape. Smiley The paper will tear away easily after you're done sewing.
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