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Topic: needlepunch journal cover  (Read 3612 times)
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« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2011 05:40:35 AM »

You should try!  I've been doing it about...uh-oh...30 years. (Lord, that hurt to write!)

General tips I've learned that might make your attempts easier:

1. Use the finest (thinnest) needle you can so your fabric doesn't get mangled by the needle breaking warp/weft threads, and make sure the needle is as tightly in the handle as you can manage without tools. Otherwise it will slip and your loops will be at different levels. I've made designs where I deliberately changed the needle depth--especially between colors or areas of the design--to give it dimension, but you're going to want to choose, that, not have it choose you!

2. Use only one or two strands from a six-strand length of regular embroidery floss. Using more doesn't help it go faster, and it can wind up looking clumpy and uneven.

3. I usually cut about a 2-foot length of floss and separate ONE strand at a time, then put them side by side again. If you cut the floss longer, it tangles as you're pulling strands out, and shorter means you spend too much time re-threading.

4. It helps to have a tray or pillow that you spread all this out on as you work. If you have to stand up to answer the phone or something, there's a good chance your already-cut thread or your threader or the needle will go missing. It's not a really good "zipper bag" craft.

5. Use a really tight hoop, and keep your fabric taut. Really. You should hear something like "POINK!" as the needle goes down in and there should be absolutely NO slack! Tug on the edges of your fabric to tighten (it won't hurt your design like it will in embroidery), or reposition in the hoop often!

6. It's okay to stop and reposition your design in the hoop. The hoop can even cover a finished part of your image because you can fluff it up when you're done. (Just dampen it with a fine water spray and iron it, loop side down, on a fluffy bath towel.)

7.  When you think you've done an area well (it looks covered from the back), flip it over to the side that will show, and double-check. If you can see your fabric through the loops and you don't like it, you can punch over an area you've already made by wiggling your needle in between the stitches down to the fabric surface and punching through.

8. If your fabric is a little flimsy or not an even weave (like a sweatshirt), trace your design on fairly light-weight interfacing, iron it on the wrong side of the fabric, and punch through it.

9. When you've finished and fluffed and happy that all your spots are filled in, trim the little "tails" where you started/stopped with one length of floss down to about 1/8" and iron on a piece of interfacing to seal the threads from the back. (I think the Clover brand equipment suggests using glue.)

10. You can use a needlepunch tool so that the loops go to the BACK of your work, too, sort of as a running stitch pen. Just be sure that you aren't going to see the loops through the fabric, and be sure to seal it.

11. Once you've sealed the back, you can use fine embroidery scissors to trim either any stray too-tall loops OR to trim the whole thing to give it a deeper color and softer feel. (If you're going to do this, however, I'd suggest using more needle depth so you're not shaving too close to the fabric.)

Sorry so long! Hope it helps! I can try to answer any other questions if you're working on something and get stuck.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2011 02:29:16 PM by graced » THIS ROCKS   Logged

Words to craft by: Un homme a cheval va jamais voir ca...  "A man on horseback will never notice that."
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2011 02:24:31 PM »

What bright happy colours! Very cheery.

And thanks for the advice - now I want to try my hand at this. We'll see how that goes!
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2011 04:15:02 PM »

Thanks for the advice, now I want to do it too!

« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2011 05:08:53 PM »

This is fantastic!  Great work!

« Reply #14 on: May 25, 2011 04:44:55 PM »

I recently found myself the new owner of at least 40 spools of needle punch yarn. (truth is, Dad got it for me, and he has NO idea what it is... he just knows that I crochet and embroider). It is really fine and kinda fuzzy (the labels say for needle punch).
Anyway... I have several things that I think are needle punches, but none are really fine needle ones. I think the one I have is for use on burlap with rug yarn... it has a large eye with no sharp point.

Anyway, I would like to know how I could either make one or find one for this thread. It is really nice yarn and I would love to see what I can make for my dad out of it. He is getting harder and harder to find things for and make things for. Father's day is arriving soon... and then if not that soon I can always make it for his 75th birthday in August.

Please help me if you can... thanks!


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« Reply #15 on: May 25, 2011 08:26:27 PM »

Thanks, y'all. It really is very hyptnotic and easy. You should try it!

RobbieKW, I use a long-gone Bates needle and threader--it's slim like a pencil and very lightweight.  I think I know what you're talking about, though. Look carefully at the second photo in the slide show on this kind of needle: does your thread look like this? [http://www.forcraftssake.net/image.aspx?storename=forcraftssake&ItemID=10030603

If so, I think I can find the one similar to it (dial-a-punch type) in a box in my attic.  It used to have (may still have?) a holder that puts the spools of fuzzy thread at the end of the punch tool. I found that it is a little heavy for me to manage so I never used it much. Does this look right?

Words to craft by: Un homme a cheval va jamais voir ca...  "A man on horseback will never notice that."
« Reply #16 on: May 26, 2011 01:10:21 AM »

Beautiful job. I got into needle punch when I saw a kit on sale at Hobby Lobby. I'm trying to get back into it. I really like your idea of needle punching the design in the fabric. I'll have to try that sometime.

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