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Topic: what serger stitch to use for attaching jeans pocket to pants?  (Read 2059 times)
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« on: February 01, 2010 11:39:23 PM »

Take a look at the inside of the pockets of some of your jeans. I need help deciding which serger stitch to use to attach the jeans pocket (usually white fabric) to the denim fabric that's under the waistband. I have seen some jeans where the denim fabric is straight stitched onto the pocket bag, but others use some sort of loopy stitch that I'm not sure can be reproduced by a home serger, but I'd like to use something close to it.

The denim fabric is stitched directly on top of the pocket fabric with right sides facing up, no seaming like normal. Here is a video of factory-made jeans, and you can see what I mean at 2:02. On the wrong side, I have seen some pockets that have two parallel rows of chain stitches, and some pockets with the wrong side of a coverstitch (two rows of chain-like stitches with a zig-zag inbetween them).

I have a 5-thread serger. Any ideas would help!

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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2010 06:14:37 AM »

Because you are doing a lapped seam and not wanting to cut of fabric from the edge, I do not think a home serger would work. Does yours have a setting to turn off the cutter? even so, the home serger is going to usually produce a box stitch which is not what they are using. All the jeans I've checked use some form a of chain stitch, usually a multi-thread chain stitch.

Since you are not working with a knit fabric I don't think it's necessary to use a chain stitch since they are usually used to allow stretch. I would say, serge the edges of the denim fabric first and then use your lockstitch machine to seam the denim to the pocket bag.
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2010 11:03:52 AM »

At last I've been able to see the video.  Well, in the factory they use all knids of industrial machines, each specialised in one step.  Gosh, they even have a machine to turn the garments inside out!
You won't be able to do that with a serger.  A serger cuts the edge as it sews, no?  So, as lindseymichelle already explained, you need a regular machine to attach the pockets.  If your regular machine doesn't do overlock stitch, use a double needle to get the same look as in bought jeans (check width between needles - now I think of it, the ones I have are narrowly spaced.  And check how they work in your machine, if they will not crash against the plate -not all machines accept double needles!)

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