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Topic: PLEASE HELP!! pattern contradiction  (Read 1061 times)
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« on: July 22, 2010 06:49:13 PM »

Hello all! I am new to this forum and in desperate need of some help. I have been volunteered to make five bridesmaid dresses by November for my sister-in-law's wedding. I have only made baby clothes from a pattern, but thankfully I'm pretty good at just winging it. The pattern she picked out is pretty straight forward. The problem I'm having is the sizing. The pattern contradicts itself. On the insert page it says that a size 36 bust is a size 14, and then on the actual pattern paper it says a 36 is a 12. It does it on the waist too. On the insert a 28 is a size 14 but on the pattern is a 10! WHAT DO I DO??? Do I go with the size thats on the pattern because its more likely to be correct, or do I go with the sizing on the insert because if it is too big I can do my best to take it in? How hard would it be to take in an entire dress? ANYTHING you could tell me would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you for your time.
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« Reply #1 on: July 22, 2010 07:43:22 PM »

First, what pattern is it?  If it's one of the big 4 (Simplicity, Butterick, McCalls, or Vogue) they tend to swim with ease.  Look for the finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces themselves, and determine how fitted the pattern actually needs to be, then go by that.  Your absolute best bet would be to make at least one muslin for one of the average sized girls.  That way you can see where it's big, where it may gap, or anything else.  It'll give you the experience with the pattern to see how and where you may need to tweak it, and how to get the right size for each girl.  I've made up the same pattern for myself and my MIL, and despite having drastically different shapes (she's quite definitely an apple, and I'm quite definitely a pear) the pattern still needed the same general alterations to get it to fit well, though some tweaking was needed for each of our shapes, too.  Depending on how quickly you sew, and how detailed the pattern, and what the budget is, it would be wise to do a partial muslin for each dress, if the girls are drastically different in size and shape.

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« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2010 07:55:15 PM »

Thank you! The pattern is a butterick 5183. I do have a LOT of scrap muslin that should work perfectly. Thankfully all five of us are pretty much the same size and shape (+/- and inch or two here and there). The bad part is that none of the other girls live near me for sizing. It took two weeks just to get them all measured.  Undecided  I'm not sure what you mean by "Look for the finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces themselves, and determine how fitted the pattern actually needs to be".
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2010 08:06:34 PM »

It's possible you're looking at the body measurements on the insert and the finished measurements on the pattern. If that's the case, the ease is what's making the measurements not match up. Like aislynn said, it's a good idea to find the set of measurements labeled "finished" (which are usually the ones directly on the pattern pieces) and compare those to the measurements of your girls. You want the finished measurements to be only slightly bigger if the dresses are fitted. The less fitted, the bigger the finished garment should be compared to the girl's measurements. So for example, if I have a 28 inch waist, i wouldn't make the size with a finished waist measurement of 28, I would make the one that's just slightly bigger, giving me enough room to move/breathe.
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« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2010 06:22:07 AM »

I'd start by measuring the pattern's bust and waist for one of those sizes, inside the seam allowance, all the pieces, doubling for 2 sides where necesary, and add them up. If it's a close fitting pattern, the finished measurements won't have much wearing ease, and should be close to one of the 2 body measurements given. If the pattern's measurement is between the body measurements, it's probably for the smaller size, and if it's higher than both, it should be for the larger body measurements. Hope this helps.

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« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2010 09:20:04 AM »

What is the pattern? Company and number

And what does it say, on the pattern piece does it say sometimes on the pattern piece it will tell you what the measurement of the garment is, not the size of the pattern. It doesn't look like that is what is going on in your pattern, but I don't know. Generally a 14 is a 36" bust and 28" waist.

But yes, if you measure it at it is bigger than 36" and 28" then it is for a size 14. (Like Feast Your Eyes said you have to subtract seam allowances and double where necessary, hopefully it is not asymmetrical and the measurement you get will be bigger than the body measurement for the size because you don't want it to be a second skin, even if it is supposed to be tight.)

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