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Topic: Bust Cup Dress??  (Read 780 times)
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« on: May 26, 2009 09:11:25 PM »

Hey all. Longtime Lurker here. I can usually search on Craftster and find the answers to any question I have, but for this dress: http://www.forever21.com/product.asp?catalog_name=FOREVER21&category_name=dress_dressy&product_id=2059289829&Page=all# I have no clue what to even search for!

I have no idea how to make the top part of the dress. Is there a name for this bra-type bodice? I tried googling 'bust cup' since that's in the description, but to no avail.

Can someone tell me what this is called, or point me in the direction of how to get started on drafting a pattern for this?

I'm sure it's simpler than I'm making it out to be, but I'd like some hints before blindly attempting to make it.

Any advice is thoroughly appreciated!!

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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2009 05:35:12 AM »

I think your best bet would be to find a commercial pattern for the top, and then add the skirt to it yourself.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a pattern like that top somewhere before.

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« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2009 07:58:36 AM »

I think the best place to start the top would be a bustier pattern.
kwiksew.com has one that could suffice, you'd just need to alter the lower part of the cup (the pattern I'm thinking of has a cup in 2 parts, where the dress you're refering to has the cup in 3 parts), take out the side front seams, cut it off short to add in the belt section of the 21 dress, and add a little panel at center front for buttons.
http://store.corsetmaking.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CMS&Category_Code=BMSPAT&AFFIL=BMS has that pattern as well as another bra pattern that's quite similar to the shape for the 21 dress as well. For that one you'd need to round off the top of the cup, and possibly lengthen the underbust just a smigde.

There's also this: http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1707. A tutorial on drafting a bra pattern using a bodice block (which requires the knowledge to draft a bodice block, but they aren't too hard). And: http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/show/3934 is a pattern for a bra that, while the style is quite off from what you're looking for, will give construction notes that'll be useful if you decide to draft your own bodice for the dress. And best of all, both of those from BurdaStyle are free.

From the side seams back on the top of the dress is a whole lot easier, as everything is shirred, probably with elastic. A quick google search including the words "shirring" and "sewing" will get you several tutorials on shirring, and possibly one of them will give you an idea of how much fabric is eaten up by the shirring so you know how large to cut your back piece. Just draft a fitted back piece and extend the width to accommodate the shirring.

The skirt portion looks like a rectangle that is pleated into the bodice portion, so that'd be simple enough to draft.

Hope that helps a bit.
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2009 10:56:00 PM »

Yeah, looks like I'll have to find a similar pattern for the top. The rest should be fairly simple.

Thanks for your advice! Those links should help tremendously  Smiley

I've never done shirring before, but I was thinking of doing an exposed zipper in the back instead...I'll tackle shirring some other time  Wink

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