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Topic: twin needles, stretch knit, and pattern instructions  (Read 884 times)
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« on: May 25, 2009 09:37:32 AM »

i am using burda pattern 7825 to make a maternity shirt. its basically a t-shirt with gathers up the side to make room for the expanding belly. this is made with a 2-way stretch knit. my problem is with the neck. there is a pattern piece for the neckline, and basically i am to use this similar to how i would bias tape. sew right sides together, turn, topstitch. i am also instructed to trim the necks seam allowance to 3/8 in before i do this, and use a twin needle. when i tried this the first time, i forgot to use the twin needle. the neck is now all stretched out and i have to start over. my question is, will using the twin needle solve this problem in itself? should i have not trimmed the seam allowance like it said? the neck looks overall large and it folds outward, if that makes sense. any help would be very appreciated, i am very hesitant to try again only to fail.

« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2009 02:13:11 PM »

Using the twin needle will help alot. I always use a twin needle for hems and edges on stretchy stuff. Another trick is to sew it with tissue paper between the feed dogs and the shirt to prevent it from getting stretched as you sew (which is what happened, it seems), and also loosen your presser foot as much as you can. On my machine, you loosen the foot by loosening the screw that holds the foot-clip-thingie, lowering the foot lever so that the foot-clip-thingie slides up the arm its mounted on, then tighten the screw up again. Don't forget to tighten the foot again (by reversing that process) before sewing non-stretch stuff.

Because your neck edge is already stretched out, you may want to wash it before sewing again (the spin in the washer may help it relax back into shape), but no promises that'll work because I've never done it.

Hope that helps!

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« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2009 05:50:58 PM »

yeah i used a stretch stitch and its way too in there to seam rip. i'm going to start over completely. i did just find that adjustment you were talking about when fooling around with the twin needle so i'm glad you mentioned it. hopefully that and the twin needle will be good enough.

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