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Topic: Pattern help. Thigh high socks.  (Read 786 times)
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« on: December 29, 2008 05:32:54 PM »

In this pattern from LB


They are leg warmers so not exactly what i want but for my first attempt at a pattern ill let it slide.
The Pattern says....
Next Row: Bind off 23 (27, 32, 36) sts, knit to end.
Next Row: Purl, cast on 23 (27, 32, 36) sts over bound-off sts of previous row. Continue in St st until piece measures 5 1/2 in. (14 cm) from beg, end with a WS row.

How would i cast on over the bound off?

And in case i havent already bitten off more than i can chew. Do you think it would be possible to work this backwards on dpn.. so starting from the top(thigh) and working my way down to the ankle decreasing instead of increasing and instead of making a heel slit just finish it like any basic sock.

Im sorry if this makes no sense or i sound dumb but i have looked everywhere and since i am trying to teach myself, craftster and the internet are all i have.

Thanks in advance.

"If you aint havin a good time , you are wasting your time." -RZA

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Rogues do it from behind

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« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2008 09:09:13 AM »

I started a pair of these and had the same problem!! What I did is use the Backwards Loop cast-on (http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on). So when you go down the row with your purls, purl until you can't purl anymore and then use this cast on method to add the appropriate stitches. Then once you get knitting again your tights will look like they have a bite taken out of them (a shape that looks like this "<" I believe it is for the heel slit.

As for the other question, if you want to work it backwards, I don't see why you couldn't. I wouldn't be confident enough to do it myself, but I'm sure other people who have made these might have done that Smiley
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2008 10:35:27 AM »

I can't believe the wrote that pattern knit flat and seamed rather than in the round.  Shocked

For the cast-on over the bind-off, I'd use either knitting on or cable cast-on (videos at KnittingHelp.com).

As for working top down and making it into a full sock, first knit it in the round, you probably don't want a seam in the foot of your sock.

There is no row gauge on the pattern. You will need one to convert the pattern to work from the top down, so knit a swatch. Cast on at least 35sts and knit until you have a square, then measure the center 4" to count your stitches and rows.

Next, you need to translate some of the directions, you'll cast on the amount of stitches you'd normally end with (92 for the smallest size for instance) and then work k1p1 for 13 rows.

And then you have the first batch of math. You know you want the total pattern to be 22" from this point to the final bind off. The next firm measurement in the pattern is 14" after the heel slit, so 22-14=8 inches but you have some decreases to get in there too (increases in the pattern). The decrease row is done once and then repeated every 4 rows 10 more times for the smallest size, so that's 41 rows. Using your row gauge you counted from your swatch, figure out how many inches 41 rows makes, subtract that from 8 and knit that many inches before starting your decreases.

Then you do the same math for the next section, which would be from 5.5" to 14" and includes the next set of decreases.

From there it's easy, 2.5" to the heel slit, which is where you would abandon the pattern and do a basic sock foot.

Disclaimer: All math done with an under-caffeinated brain that wants lunch.
« Last Edit: December 30, 2008 01:49:45 PM by Tephra » THIS ROCKS   Logged
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2008 12:43:53 PM »

Thank you both very much. it makes perfect sense. Im going to try and knit from the top down to make socks first but if all else fails ill just add a heel slit. win win situation.

"If you aint havin a good time , you are wasting your time." -RZA

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