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Topic: Child's 'peasant-style' tops - TUTE Added  (Read 13174 times)
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« on: September 10, 2008 03:11:48 PM »

  So this is my first posting on craftster.  I hope all goes well, I think I've finally done enough posting to post myself.  I've been hanging out here for awhile, looking at all your cute things, I've tried a few.  Thank you so much for sharing with the rest of us.  So here goes.  Once a upon a time, we bought shirt for our child.  It was 'peasant-style', lightweight cotton, three-quarter length sleeves, a bit of embroidery, split-neck, placket closure.  I looked at it and said, its simple enough, I should be able to make something like that myself.  However, I doubted my own pattern making skills and never wanted to 'waste' fabric on something that would end up not what I imagined.  Then I met 'Vegbee' (if you haven't seen her kids stuff, you should).  She taught me how to make a child's t-shirt pattern.  I did it, it worked pretty well.  I saw it and said, hmmm, with a bit of tweaking maybe I could make that peasant top.  So I tried, my first attempt was this...

It has all the features of the original.  I had a hard time with the neck, I have a tendency to make them too small, but I finally used the one-step button holer on my machine.  I also used a 'painless placket' for the closure (from Debbie Glenn and 'Sew Beautiful' (http://www.sewbeautifulmag.com/article/pdf-files/110-article.pdf).  It wasn't quite what I wanted though, too boxy and too short amongst other things. But I was brave, and tweaked again and came up with...

This! White, square-neck, peasant top.  Kiddo loves it, I love it.  I ditched the placket of course.  Its muslin because that is what I had on hand, so its kind of thin, but its September here and its still 95, so it works.  I also used waste-away canvas to add the seahorse (kiddo's choice of course), and put in the three pintucks at the bottom, elastic casing on the sleeves. Well, that's it, just wanted to share.  Thanks for looking!

Okay everyone here is the tute.  I chose to forgo pictures of the pintuck sewing for written directions to get this done sooner. If it is unclear or you have questions, just respond or send me a personal message...

1. Create pattern see Vegbee for how to make childs t-shirt pattern, or use existing dress bodice pattern (this has the benefits of being able to create puffy sleeves as opposed to just a drop sleeve, which might be a nice addition). If you are using a fitted t-shirt for your pattern making, you will want to add a small amount of ease (dont add a lot, kids are small, if you add too much, it ends up much like the boxy one at the top).  I made mine slightly A-line, but straight would probably work as well.  You will also want to lengthen the pattern to take into account the pin tucks

To calculate how much to add: Multiply the width of your tucks by 2.  Then multiply that number by the number of tucks you want.[/size]
           -example - my tucks were about inch in width, so I added inch/tuck (1/4 inch x 2) , and added 1 inches to the total length (1/2 inch/tuck x 3 tucks = 1 inches).

Dont forget to add enough at the bottom for your chosen finishing method.  The front and back pieces are identical so you only have to make 1 body pattern piece.  This only works if you are making clothes for a child, as we get older the backs of our bodies are not the same as our fronts  Wink.
2.  How to create the square neckline Measure your child or some existing garment to determine where your neckline should hit.  Take a ruler (big quilting ones work well here), align it with the edge of your shoulder seam, and draw straight down from the shoulder your measurement minus the seam allowance.  If you constructed your pattern so that it is on a fold, if you align your ruler on the fold with the straight edge against the shoulder seam it should be perpendicular (this is important if you want your neckline to be square). Then draw the seam out to the fold, perpendicular to your fold or shoulder line.  You could just as easily do a scoop, round or split neck.  Whatever you choose, make sure it is big enough to go over their head as there is no stretch and no placket in this particular design (unless you choose to add those).

3. Create a facing for your neckline.  Trace your neckline carefully (I use wax paper), then draw around 1 to 2 inches or so away from it all the way around.  Finish the outside edges of the facing.

4. Assemble garment. Do shoulder seams first on the facing and the neck, then sew the neckline so you dont pull it out of shape while you are sewing the rest.  Sew facing to neckline, CAREFULLY pivoting at the corners. Clip the corners.  I both understitched (where you sew the seam allowance to the facing very close to your original seam) and topstitched it in place about inch away from the edge.  Then I topstitched again about an inch or so away (this is decorative, but it also helps to secure the facing. Finish your assembly, except for the hem.  Since I don't have a serger and I made it for a child, I did use french seams (where you enclose the seam so no raw edges are exposed).  I'm sure there is a tute somewhere on craftster for french seams so I wont go into detail here.

5.  Pintucks - You can do the pintucks (I put this in quotes because I am not sure they are official pintucks or not) before or after you assemble your garment.  I think it is easier to do them after. 
First determine where you want your tucks to start.  At that point, fold your fabric wrong sides together; sew along the chosen width of your tucks  (in my case it was ~ inch).  Press your tuck down towards the bottom of the garment. Topstitch very close to the free edge of the tuck (the bottom).  Measure down to your next tuck the distance you want them apart PLUS the width of your tuck.  Fold your fabric wrong sides together with the fold at your measure point.  Repeat the tuck sewing process until all your tucks are completed.  I saw something in a book once about taking colored yarn and running it through your tuck so that it is encased in the tuck, creating a colored tuck, Ive never tried it, but its an idea.

6.  Hem your garment - I hand hemmed mine so that it met the last tuck, that way I could hide the blind stitches behind the tuck.

7.  Embellish as desired - This one has sleeves with a casing and elastic, side vents on the bottom, and a cross-stitched sea horse. Go NUTS!

Now if you make one and you post it somewhere, let me know.  I'd love to see what people come up with.  Thanks!
« Last Edit: September 15, 2008 02:34:04 PM by sdhrt - Reason: tute added » THIS ROCKS   Logged
« Reply #1 on: September 10, 2008 05:21:34 PM »

This is a beautiful top. Good job with the "tweaking'.
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« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2008 05:29:52 PM »

I really like them specially the white one. I wanted to make myself a breezy light weight tunic type shirt all summer and couldn't find the right pattern or fabric, I never thought to use the muslin

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« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2008 07:10:10 PM »

Very cute!

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« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2008 07:10:48 PM »

oh, its fanastic!  that is exactly the top I want to make! great job!

« Reply #5 on: September 11, 2008 09:57:18 AM »

I love how the white one turned out.
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« Reply #6 on: September 11, 2008 12:39:27 PM »

Great! Impressive that you plunged ahead and kept trying new things.

« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2008 06:09:10 AM »

Love it.
« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2008 11:23:13 AM »

Gorgeous! Could you do us up a tute, ala vegbee style? Preeeettty please?
« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2008 11:31:42 AM »

very nice job and so cute!
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