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Topic: "Andrea" blouse - My first pattern (IMG & writing heavy) Pattern link added  (Read 3982 times)
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marmota-b
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« on: June 06, 2008 02:37:53 AM »

EDIT 15/06/08: I uploaded the pattern to BurdaStyle: http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/show/3651  Only in my size, but it might be of use to some of you. (My size means approximately: bust 88 cm / 36,6 inches, waist 68 cm / 26,7 inches.)

First of all, credits:
I used JJ's bodice sloper from BurdaStyle as a base for this.
I followed the instructions for raglan sleeve on VintageSewing.info - although I was a bit careless, which caused some problems during the construction, but all well what ends well, I smoothed it out again. The biggest problem with that tutorial is that the shoulder seam ends up perfectly straight, which creates "square shoulders" and ugly pointy things. So I had to add there a curve, gradually, and check what it looked like on me. But it's all right now.
I made the basic sleeve pattern according to the book Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh (I borrowed it from local library). Again, I did it carelessly, because I was too lazy to be bothered by the whole long sleeve pattern (too lazy to pick a bigger piece of paper). I suppose that's the reason why the sleeve came out too tight - but I'll come to that later. I fixed that too, don't worry. Cheesy
Oh yes, and I named it after a little girl that was babtised in our church the day I finished it.

And here's the result:



I had the lines in mind for a while. I got inspired by a lovely silk necktie I bought in a thrift store. I thought, how cool it would be to sew a blouse/top with the necktie fabric as a "stomacher"?
Here's my first idea:



Then I saw this lovely orange silk top on BurdaStyle and was amazed by how similar it was. So I decided I really should try mine out, because I saw it worked in reality.

I did what many other people do: because it was an experiment (my first attempt at drafting / altering a pattern), I knew I didn't want to ruin my lovely silk (and I didn't have more fabric to go with it anyway...), so I used a thrift store child's duvet cover, cotton print. I got it for 10 CZK (= a ridiculous price for that amount of fabric), so I knew I didn't have to worry if it went wrong. Although I probably would have worried, because I love(d) the fabric...



Because the fabric was casual, I decided against the lacing and for a simple zipper at side. Because of that I changed the seam lines in back to resemble those in front. (I actually wanted to do that at first even in the sketch, but it didn't seem right with the lacing. But now, with the final result, I think it will be all right. It always looks a bit different in sketch...) I also changed the front seam lines a bit - on the sketch the front pannel keeps narrowing on the way down, while in the pattern I broadened it again from the waist.



At first I wanted to use the red piece from the previous photo for the piping, but then it turned out to be a bit too aggressive. I realised I had a yellow cotton at home (I had bought it in the same thrift store some time before) and that it matched the yellow in the print nicely, so I used that. I also at first had the piping in the front seams, too. But sister told me it looked wrong from the side view (which is a view I cannot see myself, obviously), so it went out again. I actually like it more now, too. It's more subtle this way.

Now, the sleeves. When I first tried it on, when the side seams weren't sewn yet, it was obvious that the sleeves came out too tight and that I wouldn't be able to raise my arms if I left it at that. But I didn't want to draft  new pattern and I don't know how to alter it without it, so I solved it by adding underarm gussets:



It's simply a square piece of fabric, cut so that the diagonals (matching the seams) are on bias. That is, the sides of the square follow the grain line. The picture has enough detail in it, so I think you can see it.
Now it's very comfortable, I'm happy with it and I think I'll leave the pattern as is, with the gussets.

Here's the zipper under left arm:



It's, again, yellow. Just for fun. We had it at home, ripped from some old clothes, I suppose; so I didn't have to buy one. When I put the blouse on, I don't even need to open the zipper (I think it's because of the broad neckline), but it's better that it's there, for taking the blouse off.

Here are the pattern pieces, minus the neckline facing. I made the pattern from some ads, because just like I didn't want to ruin nice fabric, I also didn't want to ruin nice paper. Because it was huge, newspaper size, it had been folded and kept folding back, so I had to put there the cups to keep it flat.



In general, I made the pattern by drawing and cutting the style lines and closing the darts.

I also did a very uncanonical thing: I lengthened the pattern pieces of JJ's sloper (because it was shorter than my body) by simply lengthening the seam lines.
You SHOULD NOT do that. There are lines on the pattern to indicate where to cut it and lengthen/shorten by moving the pieces and smoothening the seam lines.
However, I COULD do that. Because my waist measurement is one size smaller than my bust measurement. So the narrowing created by this uncanonical way is no problem for me, it's actually what I want.
Even then I ended up broadening the back again for about 4 cm for better fit in the end. That's another "problem" of mine - my hip size is one or two sizes bigger than my waist size. (Which also causes problems with trousers, as you can see in the back view photo... the wrinkles are from wearing a belt. However, since when the photo had been taken, I solved it; I added darts and the trousers now fit perfectly.)

So does the blouse. I'm really, really happy with my "Andrea" pattern and you can probably look forward to seeing more of them from me... I even think that if I lengthened it, it could make a cute little summer dress. With A line skirt, because that's what I like most. What do you think?


Oh yes, and if you are quite a beginner as I am and would be scared of sewing so many curves, here's a BurdaStyle How To for you:
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/50
I cannot say I really followed it word by word, but I kept the advice in mind when making it and it really helps a lot.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2008 06:25:23 AM by marmota-b » THIS ROCKS   Logged

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the_naked_doll
« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2008 07:27:01 AM »

That is a very cool blouse.
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marmota-b
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« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2008 11:00:51 AM »

Thanks. Smiley
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myinsaneleenie
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« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2008 12:25:04 PM »

aw sweet! raglan with CLASS!
love it Cheesy
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marmota-b
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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2008 01:07:31 PM »

Oh, thanks! I didn't think of it like that, so it's pleasant to read. Grin
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And my original Czech blog, nowadays updated VERY occasionally...
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marmota-b
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« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2008 06:24:42 AM »

Added link to my pattern to the original post.
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http://marmota-b.blogspot.com

And my original Czech blog, nowadays updated VERY occasionally...
http://marmota-b.blog.cz
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