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Topic: Glass Etching Questions  (Read 1187 times)
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« on: November 12, 2008 05:33:20 AM »

Ive done some glass etching with pre made designed stuff from michaels - its like a rub on blue

but I want to make my own designs

what do you guys use when making your own designs? and where do you find it?

The lady at Michaels suggests I use wide masking tape but its really not as wide as I need, I guess I could use multiple lines but it just seems like a pain in the booty.

"But I don't want to go among mad people." said Alice. "Oh, you cant help that," said the cat. "We're all mad here."
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2008 07:50:35 AM »

I wish I could help you out here but I am an etching beginner myself. I was wondering what color glass it works best on. I have an array of wine bottles and last night I tried my first etching on a dark green bottle. It was pretty hard to see. I didn't know if maybe the light colored bottles would be better?
Also, are there any ideas for what to put in a dark colored bottle to help show the words that are there?

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« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2008 08:06:27 AM »

Sign shops have very wide masking tape. Also you can use contact paper, but the glue is a pain to get off if you leave it on for over 24 hrs in a hot climate. Been there, done that. Naptha in the paint dept of home improvement stores removes glue residue. Then a little glass cleaner with a Mr. Clean magic eraser makes everything perfect again.

You may try using a flashlight or lamp to shine on or through your dark glass projects, to help you see. I love the contast of etching on dark glass/mirror. However the etching cream etching may not show up as well as sandblasted etching on dark glass. Practice and keeps photos and notes on what works and doesn't. Good luck.
« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2008 06:28:21 PM »

contact paper? we used that in my art class

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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2009 03:50:52 AM »

You can always layer the tape - that is what I do with painters tape or masking tape - whatever I have on hand.  You just overlap by about 1/4 inch in as many strips as you want to cover on your surface.  Then you have a whole canvas you can freehand or stencil out with an exact-o knife.  Contact paper would also work.

« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2009 07:58:07 AM »

In my opinion, etch work looks best on mirrors. Starting out, I found it much easier to see edges on mirrors...and hey, they're shiny.

Sandblasting seems better on regular glasses/wine bottles/so on, but isn't within everyone's reach.

I still find it difficult to do anything properly on severe curves (and there are 9 or 10 glass bowls from the dollar store lurking under my craft table to prove this), as contact paper (word to the wise - use white, not clear. Clear is not as great as I thought it would be, as it's much more difficult to make sure that your cut edges are smooth) will not play along (though I've never had a residue problem), and masking tape has been known (in my world, anyway) to leave residue. Not impossible to remove, of course, but annoying.

My advice on wine bottles would be to leave the creme on longer than suggested and see what happens. I've done it before, and noticed slight differences, but that could be my brain trying to be optimistic. If you are using the wine bottle as decor (assuming it's empty), you might take a gander at instructables.com or even around here (haven't looked) and make yourself some LED throwies. If made properly, LEDs will not heat up (read: won't catch anything on fire), are small enough to fit through just about any bottle neck, and will give a good glow.

Hmm. Come to think of it, you could probably find a way to drill a small hole in a lower part of the bottle and make a little on/off button/switch/whatever so that you would have a glowing bottle lamp...

...*stumbles off to craft table*
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