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Topic: "Sweet Baby Cap" pattern (link incl.) help, please.  (Read 814 times)
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« on: September 11, 2007 05:21:40 PM »

Here's the link to the pattern, that I've had for quite some time now.
I've been wanting to try and knit this for my grandson but, it's quite confusing to me.
I'm hoping that somebody would be kind enough to help me out with the pattern, in a way that I can understand what they mean.
Especially when they say to do only the decreases every other round.  Roll Eyes


It states in the instructions to "Repeat these increases and decreases every other round for 8 (9) 10 more rounds.
The pattern is all one continuos line that I just don't understand.
#1 Is there a chance that someone could possibly let me know what round is what? As in: Round 1: is this.   Round 2: do that.

#2 What do I do on every other round, other than the increases, decreases? Straight stockinette stitch?

Then later in the pattern it states, "Then do only the decreases every other round until there are 7 (11) 11 stitches left.
#3 Which ones are the decrease rounds? As I mentioned before, the pattern is just one continuos line.

 #4And, do I just do a regular stockinette stitch as my every other round?

#5 Is there a way that this pattern can be adapted, for using worsted weight yarn? With worsted weight yarn, my gauge is usually 20 stitches = 4 inches. How could I adapt the pattern so that I can use my worsted weight yarn, to make a hat from this pattern? For all of the sizes listed as, these hats would make great gifts too.

I'd be so very grateful for any help that you could give to me. It's such a cute styled hat and, I'd really like to be able to make it for my grandson.   Smiley
Unfortunately, I don't understand it because of the way it's written up. I'd appreciate any help that you could give me, in order that I can understand it better. A step-by-step would be fantastic.   Cheesy

Thanks so much for your help on this and, happy knitting to all of you.  Grin
Sorry about the bold. I never know how to stop it. lol.
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2007 05:41:09 PM »

I think the stitch instructions given are for the entire increase and decrease round, and the plain rounds are just knit (stocking stitch), but if you want to check, go through the instructions and see if they add up to the number of stitches in your caston row.

Then when you need to decrease, you start doing every patterned round with just the decreases, do not do the increases, just ignore the instructions for increasing and knit those parts - so knit where you previously were increasing, still doing just the decreases in the right place.

For changing the gauge/weight/stitch number, first figure out the size of the stitches for the start. E.g. for the 6 months size, you cast on 121 st. In the specified gauge, what size does that work out to? Let's say you find out that it equals 18 inches (for example). What number of stitches in your worsted gauge would equal 18 inches (you're American yeah?)? That's how many to cast on.
Look where the incs/decs are falling and put them in in the right place. It looks like there are three of each per round, so divide your caston stitch number by 6 (fiddle with it to make it equal 6). Let's say your caston number were 60 (hypothetically, that's just a really convenient number for my example). You'd place the increases and decreases every 10 st., where in this pattern the stitch count calls for it to be done every 20 st.

Did that make sense?
Cute pattern!

« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2007 06:54:01 PM »

Hi, hope this helps -  follow whichever color is the size you need. (Black is for all sizes) Try this gauge conversion calculator to adjust the stitch/row counts to a worsted weight gauge.

(one hint, just reading through this - put one marker where the decreases are and a different marker at the increase, that way it'll be easier to see where to inc/decrease without counting every stitch)

CO 121 (125) 131 stitches with 2.5 mm circular needle, join then knit 7 rounds in garter stitch (purl one round, then knit one round) then change to 3 mm needles and knit in stockinette stitch, changing colors every 2 rows.
Round 1: (the M1s are increases)
k1, M1, k18 (18) 19, slip 1 - knit 2 tog tbl - psso, k 18 (19) 20, M1, k1, M1 k 18 (19) 20, slip 1 - knit 2 tog tbl - psso, k 18 (19) 20, M1, k1, M1, k 18 (19) 20, slip 1 - knit 2 tog tbl - psso, k 18 (18) 19, M1, k1
Round 2 - Knit

Repeat these 2 rounds for 8 9 10 more rounds

Then do only the decreases every other round until there are 7 (11)  11 stitches left.

Then k2tog until only one stitch is left, break yarn and thread through remaining stitches.


« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2007 05:35:48 AM »

Wow thank you so much, for all of your wonderful help. To both of you.  I've written it all down, for future reference.
I would never have been able to figure this out on my own.  Roll Eyes
And the gauge conversion calculator, will certainly come in very handy. Not only for this particular pattern, but for many others over the years as well. Thanks for that ThreadOrYarn.
And redwitch when you said that there were 3 of each incr/decr per round, it suddenly clicked. A lighbulb went off in my head. Well, not quite. Sooooooooo.........

There's only one more thing that I'm unsure of. I'd really like to know if I've got the decrease rounds figured out right.  Huh
I really NEED to see the decrease round printed out in front of me, in order to understand it properly.
Please could you let me know if I'm wrong and if so, what am I missing and where?
Or am I way off?
Decrease Round: (Would it look like this)?  It's my best guess.  Undecided
k 18 (18) 19, slip 1 - knit 2 tog tbl - psso,
k 18 (19) 20, slip 1 - knit 2 tog tbl - psso,
k 18 (19) 20, slip 1 - knit 2 tog tbl - psso. (I don't think the total number of stitches add up).
I'm real sorry about the bold printing. When I turn it on, I can't figure out how to turn it off again. lol.
Thanks a bunch you two. I really appreciate you taking so much time, to help me out with this. Soon, I'll be able to get started on this hat for my grandson.
I can't wait.....Yippee!!!!!!   Grin
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2007 05:53:26 AM »

As written, with 121 stitches per round, once you got to the decreases-only rounds, you would be continuing to do the decreases in the same place, and just knitting plain where the increases were. If memory serves, that was about every 40 stitches, yeah? (So knit 18, decrease, knit 18 more and you are at the point where you were previously increasing, don't increase/skip the inc.s, knit 18, you're at the next dec. place: continue around. So that's knit 40/36, dec., knit 36/40, dec., knit 36/40, dec. = 120 st.s)

However, on each subsequent decreases-only round, you would have fewer stitches. You want to keep them in the same line. So with that stitch number, you would do them first every 18 st., then every 16 st., then every 14 st., I think (with plain rounds in between where specified).
Don't worry too much about the numbers of stitches: if you pay attention while you are knitting the hat, by the time you reach the decrease-only rounds, you will be able to see where the decreases occur just by looking, rather than counting the stitches in-between (you might like to place markers until you understand what's happening, to show you where the decreases are occurring).

I really promise it will make sense once you have done it! Just do what it says even if you are not sure how it will work out, and you should be fine.
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