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Topic: Help with an on-line pattern, please!  (Read 886 times)
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« on: January 20, 2005 09:42:59 AM »

I want to make this pattern: http://www.craftown.com/knit/pat7.htm

It is a sleeveless sweater.  The pattern looks like a checkerboard in a solid color yarn. There are some instructions that I think might be wrong.

First of all, after the ribbing, you're supposed to start the checkerboard pattern.  The first row is basically *p10,k10* across the row.  In the instructions, it says "K the knit sts and P the purl sts" for a total of 12 rows.  That gives you one "checker" row.  Then, for the second checker row, you switch to *k10,p10* so that the boxes in the rows contrast each other.

My question is, if I "K the knit sts and P the purl sts,"  the pattern comes out all purl, not checkerboard.  I think the pattern should be:

Row 1: *p10,k10" across
Row 2: p entire row
Rows 3 - 12, repeat rows 1 & 2.

Then, every other square would be St st and every other square would be purl.

The picture is too small and low resolution for me see the exact stitches.  I tried on different computers, at different screen resolutions.  I even tried a magnifying glass! 

I think I'm right about the mistake in the directions, but I'd like the opinions of some more experienced knitters.

Second question - it calls for 4 or 5 Sport weight yarn 2-oz skeins or balls, and the pattern is done on #5 needles.  And, of course it says "or size to give gauge," but it doesn't give a gauge!  I tried to calculate, and, if you cast on 94 st for a bust size of 32", I ***think*** the gauge comes out to be 3.5 st/in.  But the picture looks like the gauge is much finer.

Any thoughts?

Thanks 1,000,000!


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« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2005 09:51:44 AM »

My thought -

Perhaps it basically wants you to do ribbing . . .

cast on multiple of 24
row 1-12 (even) k12,p12
row 1-12 (odd) p12,k12

row 13-24 (even) p12,k12
row 13-24 (odd) k12,p12

but your k12,p12 even and purl odd would give a checkerboard pattern too

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« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2005 10:07:36 AM »

regarding question 1: they mean that you should work the stitches as they present themselves on the wrong-side row.  So the stitches that look like knit stitches on the wrong side (purl stitches on the right side) should be knit.  It isn't a mistake. It's just another way of saying the same thing.

Unless you're working a really open lacy pattern, you'll rarely see sport weight yarn knit up at gauge of 3.5 stitches per inch!

Are you in the UK? I think the #5 needle being called for is a US5, which is the equivalent to a UK9, or 3.75 mm. Still a bit big for sport weigh, IMHO, but whatever.

now question #2: Did you forget to calculate both the front and back? You should base your gauge calculation on 94 sts x 2. (even though you add 2 stitches above the ribbing, discount these because you'll lose the equivalent in the seam)

94 x 2 = 188 sts
188 stitches   32 inches = 5.875 sts per inch
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« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2005 10:42:06 AM »

Starlings and Mols, thanks so much! 

You are absolutely right - I did not count "front and back" to estimate the gauge (duh).  Approx 6 st/in makes much more sense.

I'm in the US, and I think my #5 needles are US #5, but they don't say what country they apply too.  They're pretty skinny.

Also, I agree with Mols about how to do the pattern.  It seems like it is a giant ribbing.

Anyway, I have to do my swatch.  I am knitting for a 38 bust and I have 6 82-yard skeins of Berroco Quest.  I pray it's enough yarn for the sweater.  The label says 4 st = 1" and 5 rows = 1" on US 10 needles.  I'll have to do some math to make it work for me. I found some pattern calculators on the 'net that will change a pattern gauge for you.  I might try one of those.

Thx again!


« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2005 10:51:58 AM »

it would be pretty easy to rewrite this pattern based on your gauge. But since the pattern repeats are quite large (20 sts!), you might want to make your squares smaller are larger the number of stitches necessary to get the right dimensions in your gauge.
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« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2005 12:34:53 PM »

OK, so the stitch gauge in the pattern is 6 st/in, right?

What is the row gauge?  Or does it not matter, since it says "work till....desired length..."?

I have to make proportonal chgs to the neckline and armholes.

Right now, I'm making a new swatch with 5 st/checker instead of 10 b/c you're right, the pattern gets really big...



« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2005 08:46:21 AM »

The original row gauge isn't really important, since the lengths are given in inches. In fact, at this point, all you really need the pattern for are the length measurements, since you're basing the number of stitches on the desired circumference x your real gauge.

You will need to recalculate the number of stitches to bind off at the underarm, though.

In the 38" instructions, they ask you to bind off
5 sts from each armhole edge three times
3 sts from each armhole edge once

In the pattern's gauge of 5.88 stitches per inch (might as well be precise, since we're operating on a purely hypothetical level here), 5 stitches are just a bit less than an inch. 3 stitches are just a bit less than half an inch. This is where you fudge the numbers. Look at your gauge and see how close you can get to those numbers.

Because your row gauge will be fatter than with the sport weight, you won't be able to get exactly the same shape of armscye (it will have a more gradual slope), but it will look good.

You can figure out the neck shaping in a similar way. You may want to decrease two sts every other row (or one every row) half the number of times, instead of one, to get the right shape. It comes down to a combination of calculation and experimentation.

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« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2005 09:12:31 AM »

Starlings, thank you so much for putting so much time into this and helping me out!!!! 

I played around with the yarn and different size needles all night.  This particular ball of yarn is getting pretty ragged from all the testing and ripping-out.  It was clear that if I stuck to the #5 needles that the pattern calls for, I wouldn't have nearly enough yarn.  Also, if I shortened the checker boxes to 5 stitches instead of 10, it looked too busy.

I tried Sz 10 needles and that came out to 20 st/4" and 15 rows/4".  The 46 stitches I used to make my swatch came out to 10" when all was said and done.  At that rate, if I followed their pattern for the smallest size, I think it would come out to be my size : - ]     because twice my gauge would be 92 stitches and 20" for each half of the sweater.  The smallest pattern size calls for 96 stitches.  I need sweaters to be about 39" around the bottom, and I think I can make adjustments by using smaller needles and when I put the pieces together.

I am making some bottom ribbing for 5 rows on #7 needles, and then I plan to transfer to sz 9 circular needles.  That might bring my gauge down a smidge and be closer to my size.  I have 6 82-yard skeins, so I'm demanding that each 1/2 of the sweater take no more than 3 skeins.  At $11/sk, I think $66 plus tax and sweat equity is plenty for a sleeveless sweater.

I've never used circular needles before.  This whole sweater thing is turning out to be an adventure!

Do you use circular needles?


« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2005 06:33:11 PM »

8 ball, I'm suddenly thinking that you won't have enough yarn.
Check out this pattern, in Bereocco FX, which is more similar to your "quest" in gauge and yardage.


It calls for 9 hanks/765 yards in the 38" size. Could you do sections in a contrasting yarn?

In answer to your question, yes, I use circular needles exclusively - for both flat and tubular knitting. I can't stand straight needles. They feel like a bit like square wheels to me.
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« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2005 08:42:29 PM »

You're right - it's a similar pattern with similar yarn.  The only diffc is that I get "higher" stitches (more rows per inch).

Yes, I have contrasting yarn from the original sweater I was going to make. I didn't want to use it for this tank top.  It will really detract from the gold look of the sweater.  If I have to, I might make some of the middle rows in the contrasting yarn.  I guess I'll see how far I get, or, if I get the urge to splurge, go back to the lys and see if they have anymore Quest.

I'm pretty discouraged b/c I LOVE this yarn, and I've started 3 different garments now and gave them all up for one reason or another.  The original ball of Quest is starting to get worn out.

Thx for your help, ttyl.


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