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Topic: Favorite Cast On Technique?  (Read 3780 times)
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« Reply #20 on: April 03, 2007 08:53:47 PM »

favorite cast on for what? i know lots of cast ons (30+!)
i use different ones for different purposes. some times i want the smooth look of tubular (say on brim up hat) some times the ease of long tail (for a hem of sweater) some times i want a decorative edge like a picot or channel island.  

i recently blogged about cast ons, (a 4 part series) Page 4 (there are links on the bottom of each posting to the next) is a list of links to sites that have video's and tutorials (there are so many great ones out there, i didn't think i needed to re-invent the wheel and make my own)

start here and learn more about cast on's--(page 5 of the series is about bind off's--and needs to be edited since i just learned another cast off!)

« Reply #21 on: April 03, 2007 09:53:41 PM »

It may be we're using different terms to describe the same thing, or not....

I just get riled when `how to cast on' instructions blithely assure a new knitter that `the longtail always makes the first row, so you start your pattern on the next row'. That just isn't true, and causes a lot of confusion in beginners. A cast on is a cast on, and not a `cast on plus one row'. Everyone should try different methods and see what each type of cast on produces, then decide for themselves whether they should do another row, start in with the pattern, or do it another way. Knitting is very individual and nothing should be so specific that people feel they're doing something wrong.


I can see how that would irritate you.  It is really much better to explain that the long-tail cast-on has a knit side and a purl side, and let the knitter decide what to do from there.  I suppose the "plus one row" is merely more advanced knitters' shorthand for the effect.

Structurally, however, I must say that at least my long tail cast-on *is* a backwards loop cast-on that has been turned and purled tbl to the end.  It's neater and tighter, but the path of the loops is identical.  It's like the difference between a ssk and a sl1, k1, psso.  Made differently but the end result has the yarn in the same relationship.

In aid of this, I've got a picture of myself forming a stitch in long tail cast on, and also myself forming a backwards loop.  Monste Stanley has it labeled the twisted loop method and advocates working through the front of the stitch to give the twist in the foundation row.  I prefer working it through the back of the stitch, however, which should clarify why they turn up the same edge if I purl back the first row.  The long-tail is still a firmer edge and tends to be neater, of course.  The gauge difference between the loops does affect how the edge behaves.

« Reply #22 on: April 04, 2007 12:05:46 AM »

i dont know if this has been mentioned (3am, not reading very carefully through other suggestions) but if you just want a really rough estimate for a large amount of stitches when you're using a long-tail cast on take the end of the working end of the yarn and pull it out of the skein until your arm is out straight. then grab where its at the skein and do it again. each pull is about 20 stitches (ive found that number rather accurate with worsted and heavier weight yarns but it definitely varies)... so if you needed 80 stitches and didnt know how to "guess" just yet, pull four times and then maybe another half just in case and you're set. you probably wont run out and definitely wont waste a huge amount of yarn

hope this helps

ps as others have said, this is my favorite cast on too. so simple and versatile. i generally only use others when a pattern specifically calls for it.

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« Reply #23 on: April 04, 2007 06:43:19 AM »

I just get riled when `how to cast on' instructions blithely assure a new knitter that `the longtail always makes the first row, so you start your pattern on the next row'. That just isn't true, and causes a lot of confusion in beginners. A cast on is a cast on, and not a `cast on plus one row'.

Hey Sooz, I can definitely see where that would be a confusing thing to a beginner, but it is a fact that you really, truly DO knit one row when you use the long-tail cast on method. When you're done casting on, you can look at your needle and see them, and in the event that you are anal enough to measure your exact row gauge, you will see that the cast-on row has height just like all other rows of stitches.

For instance, if you're knitting a swatch, say 16 sts x 20 rows, if you long-tail cast-on and then knit 20 rows, you will be able to go back an count 21 physical rows on your swatch. This means you run the risk of measuring your gauge wrong.

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Handspun yarn, spinning fiber, stitch markers & knitting accessories
« Reply #24 on: April 04, 2007 07:51:28 AM »

Please do use a loop cast on and purl a row and compare it to the long tail CO. They are not the same! I've been knitting over 40 years and that's what I've used most of the time. I never even heard about the longtail `makes the first row' idea until last year. I always start with the first row of the pattern after I do the cast one and everything's turned out just fine. And no, when I count rows, I don't include the cast on as a row. Row gauge isn't as critical as stitch gauge anyway, as you knit in inches for length. I always use a different needle size than indicated in the pattern, so I knit to my own gauge, so there's no risk of making something the wrong size.

sue, knitting heretic

« Reply #25 on: April 04, 2007 08:19:05 AM »

Asthetically, I love the edge a nice cable cast-on gives. I do hate the time it takes though.

For speed and versitility, I like the long-tail. First one I learned and only one I used for many months.

I hate backward loop because I find it awkward and it tends to leave holes. I'll use it when appropriate/necessary or called for.

I also hate knitted cast on because it's just ugly and loopy, IMO. Cable is so much nicer looking.

As for provisional cast-ons, I use the crochet method.

I haven't had reason to explore some other cast-on methods yet but I will as it comes up in my knitting. Next I think I'll tackle is figure 8.

« Reply #26 on: April 04, 2007 09:49:49 AM »

Figure 8 is really cool, so is the turkish caston. One that I've been using lately is a purled CO. Like the knitted CO, only you insert the right needle like doing a purl stitch. It's slow and sorta loose, but it makes a nice chained edge that's as close to a BO edge as I've seen.


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« Reply #27 on: April 04, 2007 10:33:15 AM »

i tried to learn italian tubular cast on just recently, but could not make head nor tail of the illustrated instructions i found.

I found these instructions excellent for learning the italian tubular cast on; my only problem was trying to scroll down to the next picture still holding the yarn, needle and making sure I didn't twist or drop my stitches Shocked as a mum to three kids I often lament my lack of extra hands and they would definitely have been useful then!  But once you're in the swing of things it's really quick and gives you a gorgeous, professional looking edge.

Apologies if these were the instructions you couldn't make head nor tail of(!) Cheesy
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