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Topic: Boobholder/Minisweater (link to free pattern!)  (Read 106890 times)
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« Reply #380 on: February 24, 2006 08:19:32 AM »

Thanks poppysmum.  Smiley

Aunt Suzi, the fastener I used was a metallic brooch made of 3 overlapping rings.
« Reply #381 on: February 24, 2006 09:32:10 AM »

I made this over a month ago; I suppose it's time I posted it! Sorry for the crappy second photo. I'm sure you all know how annoyingly hard it is to take a shot of your back ...

The button is cream-coloured but it's also kind of reflective, so it looks brown in the picture. I haven't worn it yet (because 1. it's cold in Toronto and 2. this white tank top seems to be the only thing it matches) but I often wear it around the house. My first item of clothing, so I'm quite proud of it. My grandpa exclaimed, "That's IT?!" once I showed him the finished product. Wink
« Reply #382 on: March 03, 2006 10:46:38 AM »


i had to write to Stephanie about a gauge questions with the boobholder and promised i'd forward the response for everyone:

Me: the pattern states 13 sts/10cm with worsted yarn on 5.5 mm needles.  is this correct?  she's getting 18sts & 24 rows on 5.5mm needles; even if she goes up a whole needle size i don't think she's going to be able to drop 5 stitches.  i've trolled the web looking for pattern commentary but haven't seen anything.  any suggestions?

Glampyre: you can use whatever yarn she wants to and whatever gauge...I think my yarn was actually heaver than worsted...I wrote that patten quite a while ago.

I'd suggest using your worsted yarn, and whatever needles you think
makes a nice fabric.

Follow the pattern exactly until you get to the "spearate sleeves from
the body" part.

At this point, use your gauge to figure out how many stitches you want
on the needle in the front section and back section to fit you
correctly. (as follows:)

Figure out your gauge.  If you're getting 20 sts in 4", for example,
that's 5 sts per inch.  If you want a sweater that's 38 inches around,
you multiply 5x38= number of stitches in front and back sections.
(Don't count the sleeve stitches here.)

So...do the increases at neck edge and raglan increases at sleeves until you get that number.  Then knit straight until it's long enough for the desired amount of coverage.

These raglan patterns are really adaptable, both in terms of yarn and needles.

thanks to Stephanie for all her help!  you are an angel! :-)
« Reply #383 on: March 03, 2006 03:38:17 PM »

I recently finished my boobholder/sweater and here it is:

I like that I can pin up the top and make it into a keyhole sweater.
this idea came from another Craftster link https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=35781.0

The Smiling Frog
« Reply #384 on: March 03, 2006 03:40:30 PM »

That is soo awesome I wish I could knit that well. Good job!
« Reply #385 on: March 04, 2006 12:13:18 AM »

Wow, those tips from Stephanie are so cool. I admire her so much.

I wonder if she's seen all the modifications people have made to her design. I'm sure she'd really love them. Smiley Smiley
« Reply #386 on: May 18, 2006 03:44:55 PM »

I used a cotton yarn but i'll probably never use cotton again for this project. doing increases with cotton is not fun.

Anyway, this was my first time making a garment with real sleeves. i think i can move on to making my first sweater now.
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« Reply #387 on: May 18, 2006 04:44:21 PM »

operadork - i love it! and i love the color! looks great

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« Reply #388 on: May 20, 2006 03:22:49 PM »

i finally finished mine after having lost the dpns before the second sleeve. i used cascade 220 that i dyed using wilton icing dyes.

a photo of it being worn can be found on my http://www.knittingschooldropout.blogspot.com

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« Reply #389 on: May 20, 2006 03:30:20 PM »

kitschy-kitchen  - love the colors

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