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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 453556 times)
Tags for this thread: resin , mold , catalyst , resin_problems  Add new tag
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Diane B.
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GlassAttic --polymer clay "encyclopedia"

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« Reply #1510 on: April 12, 2010 10:06:08 AM »

Yep, should have mentioned Future (or Mop 'N Glo) too...those floor polishes are also tough and shiny, but aren't UV-resistant like some of the polyurethanes.  They're also thinner.


few of my photos
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
« Reply #1511 on: April 16, 2010 07:31:37 AM »

The Daredevil Sky Pirate
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« Reply #1512 on: April 16, 2010 08:44:19 AM »

I've tried the pour onto glitter method and that doesn't work, stirring the glitter (or in my case fauz gold leaf) into the resin and then pouring worked for me because the resin is forming a coat onto the pieces of glitter.

try etsy for the blanks, they average about $4-5 dollars for 2-3 blanks.

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« Reply #1513 on: April 19, 2010 08:43:47 AM »

Lookin to get a little help, tried searching this topic but was very overwhelmed trying to find an answer Smiley

Basically what I"m trying to do is put an image or sicker at the forefront of the mold, then glitter or candy behind it.  Candy background I really dont have an issue.  I do have an issue with glitter.  I have tried layering but the issue I have is the glitter rolls around and then i basically have glitter spots throughout the back of the piece making it look untidy and unprofessional.  

How do you guys do it? Do you mix glitter with the resin in a cup instead of putting the glitter directly into the mold?  Layering simply just isnt working with the glitter directly in the molds.

Also, does anyone have any good places to buy blanks for necklaces and rings? seems like they're pretty expensive, all the sites i've found sell for 1-2 dollars each Sad

I mix it in 2 layers. 1st the layer with the sticker then the layer with the glitter. I mix the glitter with the resin and catalyst in a cup then pour it into the mold.

I also have purchased many supplies via etsy. I just do a search under supplies and compare.

Someone asked about bubbles.... After the resin is poured I blow on the resin through a straw as the resin cures. Essentially I'm blowing out the bubbles as they appear.  That gets rid of my bubbles.

ammasmama - your hearts look just like red glittery roses I made! Fabulous!  Grin

« Reply #1514 on: April 19, 2010 05:24:52 PM »

When I did my halloween necklaces I poured half in then let it dry and I used Elmers glitter glues right in the mold. Let it dry then poured the second half of the pendant.
Like this one

 Or let it dry til tacky and added glitter to the back then poured very little so I could swirl it and place more glitter, let it dry then poured the final layer.
There are pictures here of a few I did
I am planning on doing a peep bunny necklace sometime this summer but am afraid the sugar will go wonky like glitter and the marshmellow will melt. Won't know til I try!

May a sunbeam warm you, a moonbeam charm you, and a craft idea hit like monkeys flinging poo.
« Reply #1515 on: April 21, 2010 01:14:48 AM »

I have a friend who has made a custom request that I think is a little beyond my knowledge in resin.  They want something similar to this:
or this:

Except not that exact thing obviously.  They want something with fairies.  I can get a general idea on how they made it, but where does one find a silhouette image like that? I own a cricut so I thought that might be a possibility to try.  Any other thoughts?

« Reply #1516 on: April 21, 2010 09:47:27 AM »

Wow those are very cool. I think the first one was a print out of that paticular artists work. The spoons the crafter says are graphic designs. So printed out? not sure about that one sorry. Because even if you printed the silhouette out I couldn't imagine cutting out the image and getting it so precise like those appear to be. Good luck.
« Reply #1517 on: April 21, 2010 10:05:29 AM »

Yeah, they're so precise! That's why i am so boggled how it was done!  I wish I could just outright ask them but i'm sure they wouldnt want to give up their secret (and rightfully so)
Diane B.
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« Reply #1518 on: April 21, 2010 10:05:40 AM »

If you don't want to paint yourself, you could print an image (silhouette or not) onto a sheet of acetate then use that as your embedment. In the second example on this page ("Window of Opportunity"):
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/epoxy.htm , a portion of a 35mm photographic "slide" is used (the kind of photo that gets projected onto a screen) but you should be able to buy blank transparency (overhead projector) sheets at office supply or perhaps also art supply stores to use in a printer.  If you use an inkjet printer though, you may need to seal the ink before using so it won't bleed**, but if it's a laser printer it will be toner not ink and should often be okay (test whatever you use though).

**Check out my page on resins for various ways to seal inks/etc that can bleed and also sheet of paper you don't want to become translucent in the resin:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm ...click on Preparation, Sealing, Mixing

You could also do this as a "transfer" where only the ink or toner from a print or other image is put onto a surface.  There are various ways to do transfers and many should work on resin, but this page discusses a number of ways to do them on polymer clay that could give you ideas for materials:
Here's a description though from someone who used an overhead transparency sheet and resin instead of polymer clay:
(Trent): ...I use my laser printer to print my (images) onto overhead transparency film (even Kinko's color laser prints only cost a couple of dollars, or can buy the sheets individually from them to print at home).
Print the logo as a mirror image (so it can be used in reverse orientation later), especially if there is any text in the image.
Pour a layer of resin (and maybe sand it a little?), then let harden.
Brush a bit of epoxy where the image will go, place the transparency film on the epoxy printed side down, then squeegee out all the air bubbles and also as much of the epoxy as possible.
When that's fully cured, peel off the transparency film. The printed image sticks to the epoxy so it gets left behind on the (resin layer).
. . . (this method gives a) super sharp image
If it looks the way you want, just (put more epoxy on it) to set the image there permanently. 
If it doesn't come out looking good, just sand it off and start again.

Diane B.

« Last Edit: April 21, 2010 10:09:29 AM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

few of my photos
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
« Reply #1519 on: April 21, 2010 10:20:34 AM »

Diane, you truly are a genius!  Thank you again for your endless knowledge about resin Smiley  I will give that a try and see if that comes out!
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