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Topic: The random RESIN question thread!  (Read 434892 times)
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dmkk1968
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« Reply #1300 on: May 20, 2009 12:12:39 PM »

GREAT GREAT INFO...thank you so much for your posting!
david


I've *just* been doing a lot of research on resins (for my website), and have found out a lot of things that most people don't know it seems (...no wonder!...some of it is really really hard to get straight).

First . . . there are different types of resin  (...most people I've come across talking or writing about resins don't seem to know that, so they end up dicussing "their" resin as if it were the only one).  This gets confusing because the characteristics of one resin aren't always the same as those of the others.

Here's just some main info about resins...

The types of resins that crafters and artsits generally use are "polyester" resins and "epoxy" resins (there are also acrylic resins and urethane/polyurethane resins... at least).  

The polyester resins are more "toxic" than the epoxies, and more fiddly to get right, but they are cheaper and can be poured to greater depths in the same session (just a few of their differences) ...some common brands are "Castin'Craft" and "Clear Polyester Casting Resin".  Polyester resins do come as two parts, but very little of one part is added to the other part (just a few drops) ...(whereas epoxy resins are mixed in equal ratios). Polyesters are also used in other applications --between layers of fiberglass, for instance.  
Polyester resins are also often referred to as "casting" resins, but epoxies can be "cast" too since that just means they can be cured while in a mold to create a shape.

Epoxy resins are a bit more complicated in their types.
....In general, all epoxies are a bit more expensive than polyesters, but they're also much easier to get right, and have much less "toxicity" and really-stinky odor.  

...The epoxy resin that's usually discussed around craft circles is the one that results in a "hard" surface a lot like polyester, but it's a bit stronger (....some brands you might hear of are Ultra-Glo, Envirotex Lite, and Aristocrat Liquid Glass).   Epoxy's primary disadvantage is that it can't be poured deeper than 1/8" at one time... it can have more layers, but each has to cure fully first.  If poured thicker, it can show up a yellowish cast (...not to be confused with the yellowish cast all resins will get if they're exposed to much ultraviolet light from direct sunlight or fluorescents)

...The other most common epoxy resin cures with a softer, somewhat rubbery surface, and is primarily used for making "artificial water" in clear vases with arrangements of artifical flowers/plants ("floral setting resin").  This type is easy to use, low toxicity, but it's primary disadvantage besides the softer surface is that that makes it prone to collecting dust (brands include Aristocrat Liquid Illusion, Clear Elegance, Aqua Clear).

There are some newer one-part materials which also give a clear thick plastic surface which I think are also resins, but one may not be ---these are meltable or can be poured straight from the bottle (brands include ...Scenic Water and Wonder Water for the meltables, and Realistic Water by Woodland Scenics for the other).

All the resins can be used to create thick coatings (or thin coatings) and can be cast in molds temporarily ...or they can be cast in permanent "containers' such as fake landscaping (like model railroaders use) for ponds, rivers, etc., in miniature scenes, or in permanent metal cells, etc., as faux cloisonne, over transfers in deep frames, etc. (as far as I know anway... though some may work better than others for diff. things).

I'm still working on the page at my site where I'm trying to sort out all the info about resins, how to use them and problem-solve, ideas for things that can be done with them, etc., but if you want to check it out now for what I have, here's a link:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm

Hope that helps at least a bit,


Diane B.
http://www.glassattic.com ....polymer clay "encyclopedia"
Table of Contents: http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm

« Last Edit: August 01, 2009 08:41:14 PM by jungrrl - Reason: edited to comply with Craftster guidelines. » THIS ROCKS   Logged
Diane B.
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« Reply #1301 on: May 20, 2009 12:19:35 PM »

Quote
GREAT GREAT INFO...thank you so much for your posting!


You're most welcome, David!  (and finally someone who appreciates my long-windedness...lololol Grin Grin)


Diane B.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2009 12:20:06 PM by Diane B. » THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
*lguernsey*
« Reply #1302 on: June 04, 2009 11:10:12 AM »

Well I need some help please, I figure that this has been coverd here but I just couldnt locate it.
   Here is what i want to do is make my own molds, I have a pendant that i love and i would like to make a mold of it, so I tried polymer clay made my impression and baked then i did the resin thing with a release well I had to break the clay to get it out, and theres clay on it that I cant get off, keep in mind I have very limited acess to materials I have a walmart and a lumber yard in town and a farm store, so unless I travel or order off line I have to think out side the box, and I have tried silicon you use for like doors and windows, and some for use on cars and they didnt work..
    I got to micheals yesterday and off coarse they had no mold stuff they where sold out , I was so sad, and it will be 2 months before I get to go back... 
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Diane B.
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« Reply #1303 on: June 04, 2009 11:30:01 AM »

There's not a lot you can use if you actually want to make detailed molds for resin and hope to get the cured resin out without a release (and when a release is used for resin, it has to be done right to work).

The best thing for smoothness and detail would probably be a 2-part silicone putty.  (I don't know though that silicone-based grouts and glues will work well for smoothness reasons and for other reasons.)

There are a number of brands of 2-pt silicone putty you can buy (at craft, hobby, and art supply stores), but you may be better off just ordering it online.  It should come pretty quick.

There's a bunch of info on brands of 2-part silicone putties and the characteristics of each, and sometimes where to get them, on the Molds page of my site, if you want to check them out:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/molds.htm
(...click on the subcategory 2 Part Silicone Putties under the category Making Molds Yourself, then scroll down to the Putty Type... and also scroll down to the Brands)


HTH,

Diane B.
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POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
*lguernsey*
« Reply #1304 on: June 04, 2009 11:43:18 AM »

I did use a release with my resin but I still couldnt get it out of the clay mold, so I am taking it that you can use polymer clay to make molds for resin?
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Diane B.
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« Reply #1305 on: June 04, 2009 11:48:10 AM »

Generally, you can't use polymer clay molds for resin, though as I said if the right release is used exactly in the right way, it could be possible.  Clayers haven't tried that much though because the silicone putty is so much better.

Diane B.
THIS ROCKS   Logged

POLYMER CLAY "ENCYCLOPEDIA" 
http://glassattic.com/polymer/contents.htm
few of my photos
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB
(had to move them from YahooPhotos, so many now without captions)
EnginerdLisa
« Reply #1306 on: June 07, 2009 03:57:56 PM »

I know the difference between polyester and epoxy resins has been explained, but I am interested in finding out what most people use.  So for the resin people out there which type do you use, and if you have a brand you prefer what is it.
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« Reply #1307 on: June 07, 2009 05:03:35 PM »

I'd like to add to what Diane said - although silicone is always better for mold-making than polymer clay, depending on the pendant itself, liquid silicone may be better than putty-type silicone. Putty-type is not very good if you have smooth areas, since if air gets trapped while you are pressing the putty against the pendant, you end up with bubbles since they have nowhere to go. (If there are a lot of crevices, however, you can't really see the bubbles.) Putty-type is also usually more expensive per unit volume than liquid silicone. However, for many applications, putty type is easier to use since you don't need to make a mold box, like you do with liquid silicone.

Michael's carries a putty silicone, I think it's called Amazing Clay or something like that. It's not the highest quality, but with the coupon, it ends up really cheap, as far as silicones go. Since you are not coming back to Michael's any time soon, though, if you decide to order online, Oomoo 30 is a good starter liquid silicone. If you use a liquid silicone, you also need to make a mold box to contain the silicone while it's still liquid. I usually use foam core board for the bottom, but you can use corrugated cardboard as well. For the sides, sometimes I use regular cardboard e.g. from pasta boxes because it's easier to cut, and sometimes, foam board because it's smoother. And then, just hot glue them together, and you're set!
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*lguernsey*
« Reply #1308 on: June 07, 2009 06:51:56 PM »

Hey thanks, hello color!
    I was able 2 track down some amazing mold putty, and well I just tried it, the mold came out great, even though I ruint the first one, I just wasnt quick enough, I did my first pour with resin and they came out great. I just wish it was easier to find supplies around here:(
 
   EnginerdLisa, I use EasyCast Clear casting epoxy, and i love it, but it is the only one I have really worked with, I find it is very easy to use and i havent had any real problems. a few jickes but I chalk them up to my error.
 
   Diane B. thank you for your great website and all your wonderful insight, your are a great help!!!!!!
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Complicated_85
« Reply #1309 on: June 08, 2009 12:50:01 PM »

So I have been searching this thread for answers before I posted this and I can't seem to find them anywhere so hopefully some of you could help me!
I am just starting with this resin stuff, and I am planning on doing a pair of plugs(tunnels) and casting something inside of them, not sure what yet, but I've been doing test runs, and since the plugs are bottomless, I don't know what I can use to put under them to not have the resin just leak out, if that makes any sense? I was doing a test cookie cutter last night and no matter what I did the resin just seeped out underneath:[ If anyone could help me at all, I would be so greatful!
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