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on: April 15, 2005 08:55:02 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by tigralon
Relevance: 33.3%
Ok, first a solution and then a question.  Smiley

Here's my solution to the strange 7 flap.  The wrong side of the fabric is supposed to show, when it's folded back (notice that there's no interfacing on the back).  As follows:
1) finish raw right edge (as looking at pattern) with grosgrain
2) fold back on itself to the left, to line up as shown
3) sew lines perpendicular to the grosgrain where marked (seven different places)

Here's a photo of my finished 7 flap.  I took the liberty of backing it with my lining fabric, because the back of satin is un-lovely, and also I thought the silver would look good on the back of the jacket.
(EDIT: I just looked at the green runway version again, and noticed that her flap 7 is backed with the floral lining, same as I did with my silver.  I feel good that I had the same idea without realizing Galliano had done it that way too.  Cheesy))

I didn't iron the fold flat, because I like the three-dimensional quality.

Now for the question, and of course it's about that darn right sleeve.  I can't figure out how to piece together the sleeve with piece 10. 

I think I have 10 & the sleeve lined up correctly in this photo , but what is that strange curve for in the left bottom of the sleeve piece (see arrow)?  It's like a chunk taken out of the end...I can't figure out how to line it up with 10.

Here's a clearer explanation of the curve that I'm talking about.

On the original jacket, the bottom elastic casing seems to meet with 10, and I can't see any hint of what that cut-out curve on the pattern was for.

Any ideas?

Oh, and if anyone's interested, in the photo I folded & placed the "mini-sleeve" roughly where I think it should be sewn on, once it's elasticized.
on: April 09, 2010 01:43:21 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by alli.illektro
Relevance: 35.6%

i took some artistic liberty when it comes to the eyelets and appliqued grosgrain pieces. oh! and also, i added snaps to where the long sleeve attaches to the shoulder so that it can be removable.

definitely wearin' it with my white docs Wink

on: April 28, 2005 05:30:33 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by tigralon
Relevance: 33.3%
I'm back!  Back to working on the jacket, I mean.  I've spent most of the week on my final class project - my ideas for costumes for "The Tempest" (but not sewing them, thank goodness!  Just drawing them.)  It was fun, but I'm happy that it's over and I can get back to my jacket.  Cheesy

So I promised photos of my interpretation of the 6/7 flap issue.  I think that you both sewed them much more accurately, but I like the way mine looks:

A close-up on how you can see a sliver of silver along the right side, because I sewed it with both sides free.

From the other angle, with the flap flipped back to show the silver underside.

By the way, has anyone done the grosgrain on the four little flaps (the ones that go on the basque and near the left shoulder, etc.)? I have tried various methods to get the grosgrain to get around that curve without looking too horrible but none of them have worked particularly well, not even doing it by hand. It looks okay, but not as nice as it ought. Any advice?
The little flaps are my little enemies. After a lot of fighting with flaps, pins, and grosgrain, I gave in and just sewed it on by machine.  The curve isn't very smooth, even though I took little tucks under the presser foot as I went around, but I've decided that they're good enough.  Isn't there some quote saying that true beauty lies in imperfection? Grin
on: January 22, 2010 01:25:06 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by alli.illektro
Relevance: 33.3%
im gonna try to keep technical drawings and details of the whole process as a guide for others as we go (and because things arent very clear otherwise, to me anyway!)

alright im gonna keep adding details and editing these "maps" of the pattern .pdf as we go. for now, the basics that i know:

red numbers = the main numbered pattern pieces (as far as i can find)
yellow = the pieces you will need if you make the long sleeve out of individual pieces
blue = discard able (doubles of other pieces)
orange pieces = elastic (or grosgrain?) elastic i think.

let me know if we sort anything else out, i will update the 'maps'

tally ho!
on: May 19, 2005 11:22:37 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by cathou
Relevance: 33.3%
pictures!!! Cheesy alright you have to remember that it's not finished ...

on: February 10, 2010 08:32:18 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by alli.illektro
Relevance: 33.8%
hey kids! so ive finally gotten around to going to the fabric store and finding fabric i like so im back to work on this thing. im almost done with the exterior one. then i need to make ANOTHER one to use for the lining (but that one should be easier, no extra flaps or straps.) you know- this is actually REALLY EASY. if you can sew well enough to put in a zipper that is really the hardest part. Smiley  i chose to kinda stick with the original color scheme without using actual flags. my white fabric tho has black lettering kinda printed on it all messy like- it says "dirty england" all over it Smiley i like the punkness i gives it. Oh! and i took the hard road and did the patchwork sleeve. worth it. to the pictures!

(from the front, flap up)

(front side, flap down)

(side view)


its gonna look rad lined and edged in red. i just need to pick up some d rings and snaps. hope this is encouraging! post pics! i wanna see how you're doin!

on: March 16, 2005 09:19:30 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by tigralon
Relevance: 66.7%
May 19 UPDATE:
If you're looking for the link to the pattern, the website has been rearranged.  The pattern is currently at http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html.

May 24 Update:  COMPLETED!!!
Take a look below, and be sure to check out pages 19 & 20 of this thread for two more beautiful jackets by IndividualFrog and cathou!



I am hopelessly in love with the Galliano Pirate Jacket that you can theoretically sew from a free-to-download pattern at http://www.showstudio.com/play.html (scroll down just a bit and click on "Design Download - John Galliano."  I say "theoretically," because this jacket has about 60 pattern pieces and no instructions.
Here is the finished jacket - isn't is fantastic?

So...anybody want to join me in a Sew-Along in pursuit of our own Pirate Jackets?  All together now..."shiver me timbers!"
on: April 12, 2005 02:47:50 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by tigralon
Relevance: 33.3%
Here's what I have so far...cut out of that old red satin prom dress I mentioned.  I added grey-silver satin for the lining where it'll show (and I'll use darker blue-grey cotton where it won't show, to save money), and purple grosgrain.  I got extra-wide grosgrain because I realized I would prefer it with a really bold edge.

(the red is a little deeper than shown here...it looks a bit washed out in these photos)

I've had a bit of a change in how I look at Galliano's pattern.  I was originally working on it with the goal of faithfully and exactly reproducing his original jacket.  However, in the past few days, as I started to trim my own (and sew on some snaps, etc.), I felt more and more like the pattern is just a jumping-off point for us to interpret Galliano's design and make it our own.  Of course we want to be faithful when possible, but if we can't (for example) figure out how to attach the two sides under the right arm, we can interpret Galliano's design to incorporate our own systems to close the jacket.

A few quick questions...doesn't it seem strange that the right sleeve isn't fully lined?  Why does it just have that little casing along the bottom?  All the interfacing will be exposed inside the sleeve...
Also, I'm having difficulty figuring out exactly how and where piece 4 attaches to 5 at the top.  What is this "Insert A" that's mentioned on 4?
on: April 18, 2005 03:20:41 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by tigralon
Relevance: 33.3%
What's the deal with the buckles?
Actually its one piece of grosgrain with 2 buckles

And I did the same thing, just with square buckles instead:

In other news, I was looking through one of my old magazines, and found this Galliano dress I've been drooling over.

If only I could get my hands on that pattern (and that fabric), it would totally be my next project.  Grin
on: January 24, 2010 08:37:57 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by alli.illektro
Relevance: 33.3%
alright guys- i finished my muslin rough draft!

i didnt bother to do the grosgrain appliques on this one, just wanted to make sure i knew where everything went. surprisingly, the pattern pieces are so well marked i found this WAY easier then any commercial pattern i've ever used! i sewed the seams on the outside just so i could see my markings and placements. it actually looks cool highlighting the unique piecing of this jacket.

im not sure i want to do that weird little gathered thing in the middle of the back on the top. its strange. and i like the deep v on the back without it, also i didnt put the flap with the eyelets on the back on the practive version either though i will on the final.

i kept noticing it saying something about "corset back" which confused me at first because as far as i can tell there is no corset-ry in here...so i think maybe thats just a turn of phrase?

one question, whats the deal with that button stand? where does that go? thats my only missing piece!

on: February 12, 2014 10:12:01 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by N30Nb100d
Relevance: 58.9%
I don't know if anyone who was around in this thread a couple years ago still uses the site, but just in case... I finally used the pattern for this! Thanks again to the person who sent it to me (I'm sorry, I've lost track of who it was  Undecided )

I didn't really follow instructions or use all the pieces, and I definitely wasn't going to set the massive amount of snaps it needed, so it's all a bit different, but here it is:

If anyone's interested in more photos/info, there's some on my blog:
on: April 11, 2005 08:26:03 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by cathou
Relevance: 33.3%
I thought that pictures of the work in progress would be good.

this is my main fabric

this is my lining
on: May 02, 2005 08:42:57 AM 
Started by tigralon, Message by cathou
Relevance: 33.3%
Ack, I was right about rushing.  I forgot to put the II ribbons in the 2/3 seam and the 6/7 seam!  CURSES.  Well, at least I haven't put on the lining yet like I was thinking of doing today.

How's it coming cathou?  Did you ever take a picture of the 6/7 flap?  My latest theory is maybe it's just a totally separate piece which just snaps on...

Yes I have the pictures!!

I'm still at the same point I was last week because I haven't had time to work on it, but I am curious to see how the right sleeve came out though....
on: May 23, 2005 05:00:22 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by tigralon
Relevance: 33.3%
Hurrah!  My completed jacket:



I looove it.  My friend who took the photos has been watching me work on it for months.  She said, "Now that you're finally finished, we have to go out so you can show it off!"  Cheesy
on: January 26, 2010 06:56:29 PM 
Started by tigralon, Message by Maggiedoll
Relevance: 33.3%
Got a bit more together..

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