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1  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Suggestions on how to go about making tear-away togas? on: May 05, 2015 05:56:52 PM
First drape the toga on a form.  Now a toga is normally one long piece of fabric so once you figure out how you want it to look you have to figure out where the costume is going to break in order to come off.  If you are doing a one-shoulder style toga you probably only need to cut it on the side seam opposite of the shoulder.  (And if you can talk to the director about the blocking so you figure out which way the toga needs to come off stage.  If the toga is going out stage left, put the shoulder strap on the left.) 

Now that everything is draped you need to tack the heck out of it so that it will stay toga shaped without needing all the tying and pinning that real togas need to stay a toga and not a pile of fabric.  It may be helpful to have a flat base that you can tack all the pleating and draping too. 

I would first try snap tape on the breakaway side, but you may have to experiment.  To create an anchor point for the fishing line, I would get clear suspender buttons and sew them to the toga in strategic places.  You'll probably need 2-3 anchor points.  For extra sturdiness use 2 suspender buttons per anchor point, one on the outside and one on the inside sewn one together.  It's easy for stitching to rip out of fabric, but you'll have a hard time pulling a button through fabric, right?  The fishing line can be sewn or tied to the buttons. 
2  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Chiffon or Organza? on: March 22, 2015 02:58:46 PM
1-2" would be good.
3  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Chiffon or Organza? on: March 15, 2015 08:41:22 AM
Organza.  You need stiffness.  I would put horsehair in the hem to help the flanges stand out. 
4  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Help with sewing a wedding dress? on: March 15, 2015 08:39:48 AM
Ok so you need a 2 layer solution.  The under structure will be a strapless princess seam bodice.  You should be able to find a pattern pretty easily.  Don't worry if you can't find one with the right neckline.  That's as simple as redrawing it how you want.  The under structure should be lightly boned with ridgeline and made out of a sturdy fabric like cotton back satin. 

The lace overlay is much simpler, they are just rectangles that are gathered and draped.  To start I would make them your wife's ((bust measurement) x 2.5) divided by 4.  The 2.5 will give you the standard amount of fullness and then you divide it by the 4 quarters of the body.  Make the rectangles long enough to go from the waist to over the shoulder and back to the waist.  I would put a gathering stitch down the center to control it at the shoulder.  Don't do anything more with them for the moment.

I would make a mockup of the entire bodice.  You can go straight to the final fabric for the skirt if you are confident in your abilities.  First fit the underlayer.  Make sure you leave lots of seam allowance when cutting so you have some room to make changes.  I would leave 2" at the neckline, waist, and center back.  1" everywear else.  (In theatrical costuming we usually draft the pattern without seam allowance and then add the necessary amount when cutting.  I would recommend you do this as it is more accurate.)  Close the bodice with safety pins at the center back line then adjust the princess seams to get a good fit.  Redraw the neckline to your liking and check to make sure the waist is hitting the smallest part of the torso, redrawing if needed. 

Now add the overlay!  This part you can have some food and drape it how you like.  You can do this on a dress form or just do it straight on your wife for the most accurate fit.  I would put a piece of elastic around your wife's waist that you can tuck the overlay into which will keep the fabric controlled and simulate the gathering stitches you will eventual put there.  Line up the gathering stitches with her shoulders and smooth the fabric down to her waist, tucking into the elastic.  Gather the fabric at the shoulders until you get the coverage you want.  Play with the waist line to get everything draping how you want it to.  Then mark everything (make sure to measure the gathering at the shoulder) and use the mockup to create the final pattern. 
5  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Make Your Own Water Color Paint on: June 20, 2009 12:37:09 PM
This is a cool idea especially for little kids. 

I think it would be easier to just go buy some gum arabic and make waterpaints that way.  But I guess this is easier if you don't have an art store near by.   
6  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Completed Projects / Re: Felt birdies need a name, please help !!! on: April 15, 2009 07:58:48 PM
How did you do the cut out for the eyes?
7  FIBER ARTS / Weaving: Completed Projects / Re: Second ever weaving project (Warning: picture explosion) on: March 19, 2009 05:50:08 PM
It's finished and hanging up in the Abrons Art Center in New York for a Saori exhibition. 
8  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Altering a sweater pattern into a cardigan pattern on: March 11, 2009 08:36:32 PM
I have never done this my self but it doesn't sound very hard.  How much knitting experience do you have?  I am going to assume that you have at least a moderate knitting level.

The first thing to do when altering the pattern is splitting the front in half. 
Make sure the sweater pattern doesn't have a complicated pattern directly in the center.  Like don't have a cable directly in the center. 

You would have to pick up stitches for the button band and collar.  When knitting the 2 front pieces slip stitch the first stitch of every row.  Then you can just pick up every slip stitch.  There are a million different ways to do button holes.  Do some research to find out way will work best for you.   
9  FIBER ARTS / Weaving: Completed Projects / Second ever weaving project (Warning: picture explosion) on: March 01, 2009 07:09:44 PM
My first weaving was a small sample piece so I guess this is my first real piece.  This was created for an exhibition that is taking place in March.  It's 18 ft. by 1 ft.  It's woven in a Saori style.  Saori weaving focuses experimentation and the differences between what humans and machines can do.  Learn more about it HERE

Here are the pictures:

This is the whole thing

This isn't nearly all of it.  It's huge!

For reference here is another Saori piece that was done by the owner of Loop of the Loom

10  FIBER ARTS / Felting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Questions about nuno-felting... on: February 14, 2009 07:52:03 PM
I'm not sure where you live but Loop of the Loom in New York city does nuno-felting.


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