A Crafts Community For Craft Ideas & DIY Projects - Craftster.org
Help | About | Press | Advertise | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map
Welcome, Guest
News from Internet Brands:
Closing the Craftster Community on December 19, 2019.
Read the details here.
Total Members: 323,619
Currently Running With Scissors:
337 Guests and 0 Users
Home Craftster Community Crafting Articles Craft Tutorials Crafting Calendar City Guides
  Show Images
Pages: [1]
1  Chanel-Style Printed Tee - With a FABRIC MARKER! (AND Tutorial for you guys!):) in Designer Clothing Homage by carlyjcais on: November 10, 2009 09:05:27 AM

originally posted at:http://chicsteals.blogspot.com/2009/10/portland-fashion-week-day-2-outfit.html

I fell in love with the printed Chanel tank seen here:

So I made my own!  Here's how:

1. Take a white Men's XL t-shirt and a black fabric pen (I used FabricMate Chisel Tip).  The shirt is a Nautica XL, soooo much better than Hanes (nice and soft, slightly translucent, and drapey!).

2. Place your shirt over a board and apply a liberal spraying of heavy starch to make it literally "flat as a board."

3. In Photoshop, create the lettering (I added my initials as the double-C logo in the middle, haha).  (Sorry I don't remember what font it was.)  Make the double-C's large enough to fit on one 8.5" x 11" page (landscae), and the text below large enough to print out landscape on another 8.5" x 11" page.  Print out your images, and place the paper underneath your tee on top of the board.

4. Trace the letter outlines with the fabric marker and fill them in carefully, repeatedly filling in the same areas until they are nice and dark and solid (this will take awhile).

5. Cut off the hem into side-tails by folding the shirt in half vertically and cutting a semicircle - the center is cut higher than the side.  Cut off the neck ribbing and the sleeves.  Stretch the cut edges until they roll slightly.

If you wash it, probably cold water hand wash is best.

Because life definitely needs more cavorting!

So super-easy to make! I'd love to see everyone's DIY versions and get some feedback!

Report to moderator  THIS ROCKS  
2  How to Create "Alligator" Tie-Dye? in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by carlyjcais on: November 10, 2009 07:08:37 AM
Hi everybody...I was wondering if anyone had any clue how to make this type of tie-dye:

(The product is at http://www.gypsy05.com/shop/p_527_Women-Long-Sleeve-Lola-Long-Sleeve-Tee.aspx if you want to see more views.)

I've tried accordion-pleating my shirt vertically, then making wider pleats horizontally, and only dipping the front part of the shirt into the dye.
Messy and not right!

I'm thinking maybe rubber bands were used to create the horizontal stripes, but I'm still clueless as to the vertical white bits.  And do you think the shirt had a board inside it or was on a mannequin while it was being dyed?  I'd appreciate anyone and everyone's imput!
(I'm just a cheapskate and don't want to pay $93 for the real version...and this seems like a really cool technique.Smiley

Thank you so much in advance for any advice!
Report to moderator  THIS ROCKS  
3  Don't Buy DIY: Sex and the City Half-Scoop Gloves - TUTE & Photos in Clothing: Completed Projects: Reconstructed by carlyjcais on: November 09, 2009 10:08:15 AM

Originally posted here: http://chicsteals.blogspot.com/2009/10/dont-buy-diy-sex-and-city-half-scoop.html

So, were you watching the last Sex and the City movie close enough to notice those adorable half-gloves Carrie was wearing while using a pay phone in one scene?

Yeah, that's the one.

Such a subtle difference to the regular wrist-length leather glove...but oh so cute. The gloves were actually from Ines Gloves, available for $147.

But we wouldn't think of paying that much for such a simple accessory, now would we?

So why buy when you can D.I.Y.?!

Enter a typical pair of wrist-length leather gloves (mine I got at the Buffalo Exchange for $8). Wish that they were gray or brown...but c'est la vie. (I didn't want to go through the whole rigmarole of painting them with leather paint...or worse yet, attempting to dye them. I don't even know if that would be possible with black gloves. In any case.)

By using the photos on the website as reference, I sketched the scoop shape using an eraseable fabric pen onto the gloves.

Add 1/4" seam allowance below the line, and cut with a pair of sharp shears. Behold the scoop shape!

Using Loctite Vinyl, Fabric, and Plastic Glue, turn under that 1/4" seam allowance and secure it to the underside of the glove. (Barge cement is a be-otch to work with since you have to wait 15 minutes after applying it before sticking your surfaces together...a total hang-up for a DIY'er in a rush like me...) 'Tis necessary to glue the seam allowance since leather gloves are usually made from a thin and soft lambskin...which rolls and shifts uncontrollably as you sew it on a home sewing machine...unless you're an all-star with sewing lightweight leathers, I'd recommend gluing it down to get that clean seam first!

Then, using a leather needle (medium-weight leather, since we're going through two thicknesses + two thicknesses of the lining), edge-stitch about 1/8" from the edge of your gloves to secure that hem. (sorry no photo of the stitching...couldn't work with the sewing of something black, with black thread, in a might-as-well-be-pitch-black poorly-lit sewing room.)

You're done! Step back and admire.

Use a longer stitch than you normally would when it comes to leather...and a good tip when sewing leather is to crank the needle forward manually so that it has pierced the leather completely...BEFORE pressing with the presser foot of the machine to sew your line of stitching. Start sewing with the needle already in the leather to say it another way. Also, you can't go super-fast or super-slow...there's a happy medium where your machine's feed dogs advance the leather at the right speed, the needle punches through the leather without jarring and hitting the needle plate, and the needle goes in vertically and doesn't hit the bobbin case. Too fast and the aforementioned problems will crop up; too slow and the needle won't punch through the leather. It's different for every machine - just something you need to experiment with. (Of course, if you're using a heavy-duty/industrial machine for sewing leather, you can completely ignore what I've just written.:-)

When starting your line of sewing, DO NOT BACKSTITCH. Go all the way around the edge, then back into the first ONE or TWO stitches you did at the beginning of the line. Backstitch ONCE. This will create a nice, professional look to your stitching.

Also, do not start stitching directly on a seamline. This will usually cause the needle to jar and hit your presser foot/needle plate/bobbin case. Sewing machine needles for leather (for the home sewing machine) are pieces of s$#@. They will snap willfully at ANY irregularity of thicknesses in your material; or bend and not punch the leather vertically at certain speeds...ugh. Buy more needles than you think you need!

Can't wait to work these in a new outfit...the leather glove is THE must-have accessory this Fall, so rock it while you can!

Happy DIY'ing!  
Report to moderator  THIS ROCKS  
4  Don't Buy DIY: Lanvin Necklace (using Hardware Store Findings) - TUTE & Photos in Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General by carlyjcais on: November 08, 2009 02:26:14 PM

Original post at: http://chicsteals.blogspot.com/2009/11/dont-buy-diy-hardware-necklace.html

We all saw last season's Lanvin runway collection and those chunky, statement necklaces made from what looked like bits and bobs from the hardware store.

Basically, in order to make this necklace, I purchased from the Home Depot plumbing section:

*1 pack of 3/4 x 3/4 straight couplings (5 to a pk)
*2 packs of 1/2" compression nuts (3 to a pk)
*1 pack of 5/8" compression nuts (3 to a pk)

And strung them on a dark gray satin ribbon. I folded the ends of the ribbon over 2 gold split rings I had banging around in my findings box (D-rings would have been better, but whatever); machine-stitched to reinforce the ends, and attached a heavy-duty lobster claw clasp and jumpring to one side.

Presto! In less time than it's taken me to write this post, I had a gorgeous, shiny chunky statement necklace - for about $8 from the hardware store. (You may want to wipe your findings with alcohol to clean off any machinery grease/hardware store/raging testosterone smell from them.)

I wore my version of the hardware necklace in the latest styling challenge for America's Most Stylish Blogger Competition here: www.stylelist.com/amsb

(If you like my look, please vote for me in the competition!  Thank you!)

Happy DIY'ing!  
Report to moderator  THIS ROCKS  
5  Men's Shirt to Cute Summer ShirtDress Recon..with TUTE and Photos! in Clothing: Completed Projects: Reconstructed by carlyjcais on: November 08, 2009 01:51:10 PM
I know it's not summer anymore, but...

original post at: http://chicsteals.blogspot.com/2009/08/dont-buy-diy-mens-shirt-to-cute-summer.html

This is a dress made from a chambray shirt by Urban Renewal, a division of Urban Outfitters that refashions clothing into salable, new pieces. Great idea.  It really appealed to me as a cute summer dress, and I coveted, I must admit. (It's no longer available on their website though.)

Hub had bequeathed me two of his old Dockers work shirts since the cuffs and collars were slightly frayed. (This is irksome because no one would actually notice the fraying and the rest of the shirt was still serviceable, but whatevs.) Yours truly had some great raw material to work with - and if you have a guy in your life who's parting with any of his button-downs (or you feel like thrifting one for cheap at the Goodwill), so will you!

[I'm a Misses' 4/6 dress size; I started with a L shirt and used almost all of the fabric...though I would have liked to work with the XL since I wanted a little more length. I'm 5'6". Calculate accordingly.] This project took me about a day and half...and that was with a million interruptions. The sewing itself was pretty simple...the issues were with salvaging the fabric from the shirt to use. This is probably an intermediate project because of that.]

You will need:
-1 button-down men's shirt
-fabric scissors
-sewing machine
-thread matching color of thread used in topstitching of shirt
-1/2" wide elastic for waistband (your waist circumference -1")*
-1/2" or 3/8" wide elastic for bodice top (your over bust measurement - 1")*

*Note: this is a pull-on style tube dress. You have to be able to get into it, so you don't want to make the bodice too fitted or the bodice top elastic so tight that you can't shimmy the dress over your hips. Just sayin.' Or maybe you could put it on over your head...? You don't want to rip anything, so make sure you have enough wiggle room!

How to:
Button the shirt all the way up.

1. Cut according to the picture:

-the sleeves off at the armscye seam
-the cuffs off the sleeves
-each sleeve open down the sleeve seam

-the collar off the shirt at the collar seam
-the pocket off the front of the shirt (ripping the stitches carefully...we want to use the pocket fabric so keep that and the shirt intact when removing)

-the shirt straight across from underarm to underarm (both back and front of shirt)

-the button placket (button side only) from the top half of the shirt
-the back yoke from the remaining back of the shirt (if it has a back yoke; if not, do not cut)
-the shoulder seams open

What you should have left is the picture on the right above. Now we have to create each piece of the dress from the parts of the shirt we've just cut.


1. Turn shirt bottom inside out. Sew both sides together with a line of stitching just outside the stitching of the button placket. (We don't want the button placket to show on the finished piece - and all we're doing is sewing the two sides together to create a finished skirt - since there's that handy button placket, no need to pin!) Cut off button placket to create seam allowance on inside. This seam is now the skirt CENTER BACK (CB) seam).

2. Turn shirt bottom right side out. Cut straight across bottom to create hem (or leave as is if you like the "shirt-style" hem). I stitched 1/4" on inside of hem so that the fray wouldn't go all the way up my garment. I left the raw edge cuz I liked it like that. You can leave the hemming until later, once you out it on and adjust the length, or you can even add a little ruffle onto the bottom for more length if you have enough fabric (I didn't).
Now I know, I know, by turning the front to the back and not adjusting the side seams makes the skirt a wee bit too wide in the back and not wide enough in the front. But all you pattern nazi's - shove off! This is what refashioning's about.


1. Sew sleeve cuff placket closed by topstitching the open side down to the sleeve, using the same color thread, spi, and seam allowance as the other side of the placket (which is likely topstiched). We don't want that sleeve slit opening up! (Repeat for other sleeve)

2. Place sleeves, right sides together, with the (former) cuff edges together. Sew cuff edges together, matching placket lines, leaving a 3/8" seam allowance. Open - you'll see that the sleeve cuff plackets create this sort of faux "vest" appearance in the back of the bodice.


The front of the bodice is more complicated, since unless you're extremely tiny (and using an XL or larger shirt], there won't be enough fabric to go around. We're going to have to salvage fabric from other parts of the shirt and sew it into the bodice. First, wrap the bodice around your top, remembering that it needs to be slightly loose in order to get it on. If the two end of your shirt sleeves (i.e., the sleeve caps) can meet in the center with a 3/8" overlap for seam allowance, this is how we'll do it below: (If they don't meet, you'll have to calculate how much fabric you'll need to add and then cut out a piece from your shirt top to fill it in.)

a) You'll need two pieces of fabric, roughly triangles. First pin your sleeve caps together (right sides together) and b) trim your seam allowance straight so we know what we're working with.

c) [Just to explain, if you open the sleeves flat (keeping pins in there), you'll see two big gaps at the top and bottom of your bodice. We're trying to cut two pieces of fabric to fill in those gaps.] Now you can probably get each piece of fabric from each side of the shirt top. You might be able to get both from one side.

In any case, now's the time to cut off one (or both) of the shirt top front pieces from the shirt top back. Fold the piece in half, and matching stripes/pattern, place your pinned sleeves on top, matching pin line to fold line.

d) Trace around the edge of your sleeve cap for the lower gap (onto the shirt top front fabric below). Draw a straight line from the sleeve edge all the way to the fold of the shirt front fabric. Move your shirt sleeve so you can get the best placement for the next piece of fabric - do the same for the upper gap. Take off the sleeve.

Add 3/8" seam allowance around your tracing on the sleeve cap part only. Then cut each piece out, cutting through both layers of the folded shirt top fabric.

e) Remove pins from shirt sleeves and separate. Take one fabric gap-filler and pin one side of the triangle to one side of one of your sleeve cap, leaving 3/8" seam allowance. Sew, stopping at dot in picture (3/8" from edge of sleeve cap below). Place other sleeve cap underneath in a similar manner, this time folding the 3/8" SA under the line you just sewed. Stitch filler to second sleeve cap, again stopping at center dot. This should create a filler sewn to the top of the two sleeve caps - that are still not connected to each other down the CF line. Their 3/8" seam allowance should still be free and have no stitches tacking it down to the filler piece. I hope that makes sense.

f) Repeat for the top sides of the 2 sleeves. Now you have the sleeve caps connected by those little fabric fillers we just made - but not in the center, right? Now's the time to match those sleeves together, placing flat - and sew that center seam, reinforcing at the top and bottom (which are the points of those triangles - i.e., godets - that we just made). [between the arrows and the word "SEW" in the diagram above, but NOT BEYOND, lest ]

Note to all those finicky grain-matching people out there: by turning the sleeves sideways to use as a bodice, and keeping the shirt bottom vertical to use as a skirt, this means that the bodice stripes are going to be horizontal and the skirt stripes will be vertical. Deal with it! This is what refashioning's all about..and besides, it looks kinda cute this way.


Turn bodice inside out and pin bottom of bodice to top of skirt (with right sides together, skirt on the inside). Sew together.

Overlap 1" of your waistband elastic, secure ends together with a stitched square with an "X" going through it, to make a big elastic circle. Place circle over waist seam that you just sewed on your dress, and sew elastic to dress. (Of course, if you're super-talented, you probably don't need to sew the bodice to the skirt first in a separate step; you could just attach the elastic in one fell swoop. I hate you.)

Make a similar elastic loop with your over bust elastic (for the top of your bodice). Stitch to top edge of bodice, fold under twice, and stitch again to completely encase the elastic with fabric.

Measure height of CF of bodice; cut shirt front button placket piece you cut way back in step one to this height, leaving about 1/2" extra on both top and bottom (to turn under). Make sure the button placement will be attractive when the placket is sewn to the bodice.


1. Cut two pieces of fabric from your leftover shirt back. (Mine were 2 7/8"" wide by 20" long.) Sew a narrow hem on each ruffle edge, turn, then sew again to encase any raw edges.

2. Triple-knot a double-length of thread and hand-baste other side of each ruffle with 3/8" long stitches. Once done the length of each ruffle, pull on your thread to gather ruffle length attractively and match it to length of shirt front button placket you cut in the previous step.

3. Pin ruffles to underside of placket (with about a 1/4" to 3/8" underlap), leaving 1/2" at top and bottom of placket sans ruffles. (Pins shown in diagram above in red.) Fold under bottom of placket. Place placket + ruffle decoration on top of bodice front. Repin same area to bodice front (going thru all 3 layers), centering placket on CF, removing earlier pins as you go. (Make sure that bottom of the placket stays folded under, matching fold to waist seam!!) Topstitch through all layers, vertically down each side of button placket - approximately 1/8" from edge.

4. Fold down top of button placket to wrong side of bodice front; topstitch horizontally at top edge to keep in place.

I also (since I'm completely anal) was irritated by the ruffle not sitting flat on the bodice - so I tacked the ruffle down in various places by just handstitching with one or two stitches here and there to the bodice.

I also made straps from extra fabric from the shirt (about 3/8" wide) that I tacked onto the inside of the bodice. They can tie around the neck halter-style, or can be tucked into the bodice when I just want to wear it like a tube dress. I put a snap on each end, and another 2 snaps on the inside of the bodice back - so the straps can also be snapped down and look like regular spaghetti straps.

Hope you have as much fun making your dress as I did!

Happy DIY'ing!
You can also read the full post on my blog, which has tons of DIY tutorials and photos, at Chic Steals.

Thanks for looking!
-Carly J. Cais
Report to moderator  THIS ROCKS  
Pages: [1]

only results with images
include swap threads
advanced search
Crafting Ideas
Crafting How-Tos
Crafting Ideas
Crafting Topics

Latest Blog Articles
Tute Tuesday: Christmas Crack
Meal Prep Monday: Black Eyed Pea and Squash Soup
Craftster Featured Projects - Dedicated to the People Who Made It

Craftster heartily thanks the following peeps...

Follow Craftster...

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Help | About | Press | Advertise | Privacy Policy | Cookie Policy | Terms | Site Map | Do not sell my personal information

Copyright ©2003-2017, Craftster.org, © 2009-2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands