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1  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Double-knit hat & Odessa FOs - Now with Free Pattern! on: April 14, 2007 01:04:46 AM
Howdy! These are the first FOs I've thought to actually photograph and post up here...I'm notorious for knitting and giving away the product without taking any pictures!!

An Odessa, bead-less, in Patons SWS, colorway Natural Geranium (I think. I forget the colorway). This one was for my supervisor's daughter.

And this is a double-knit hat made for the anesthesia technician who came in on her day off to help with my kitten's spay.

It's my own pattern, and it's on my blog.


Double-Knit Hat

Worked in the two-stranded method: This hat is double-knit in the round, working every stitch as you go. This is NOT the slip-stitch method.

Gauge: Approximately 5sts/in.

- approximately 100 yds each of MC and CC (I used Lion Wool in Ebony and Scarlet)
- 16 circular needle, size US 7 (or whatever gives you gauge)
- double-pointed needles of the same size
- yarn needle for sewing in ends

Special Stitch Instructions:

- Two-stranded double knitting Knit the MC with the MC strand, purl the CC with the CC strand. Make sure that BOTH strands move forward and back at each stitch.

- Double-knit K2tog kind of like a traveling or cable stitch. Slip the next stitch of MC onto the right needle purlwise. Slip the companion CC stitch onto a cable needle and hold at back. Slip the next MC onto the right needle purlwise. Slip the CC stitch on the cable needle back onto the left needle. Slip both MC stitches back to the left needle. K2tog as usual. The CC is slightly more difficult; purl the two stitches together THROUGH THE BACK LOOP.

- Double-knit SSK kind of like a traveling or cable stitch. Slip the next stitch of MC onto the right needle purlwise. Slip the companion CC stitch onto a cable needle and hold at back. Slip the next MC onto the right needle purlwise. Slip the CC stitch on the cable needle back onto the left needle. Slip both MC stitches back to the left needle. SSK as usual. For the CC, simply purl the two stitches together.


1. CO 160 sts using the braided cast-on method. This results in a braid-like chain of alternating colors and sets up your first round. It does not matter if you start with the MC or CC, only that you remember that each stitch is actually BOTH the MC and the CC, regardless of which you started with. The actual number of stitches we're working with is 80, of each color.

2. Place a Beginning of Round marker and join, being careful not to twist stitches. I like casting on an additional stitch of each color, slipping them to the left needle, and K2tog each color. That makes a nice join that blends in with the braided cast-on.

3. (Optional striping. If you don't want vertical stripes at the bottom of your hat, skip to step 4.)
*Knit 1 MC, knit 1 CC, purl 1 MC, purl 1 CC.* Repeat around. Do this for as many rounds as you want the striping. Obviously if you want vertical striping anywhere else in your hat...do it there instead of here!

4. For all stitches, knit MC and purl CC. This results in a knit-facing fabric of MC on the right side, and a knit-facing fabric of CC on the wrong side. Note for combination knitters: If you purl in the combination style, your wrong side stitches will come out twisted. I don't mind this, but you may want to adjust your purl wraps.

5. If you want horizontal stripes at any point, simply switch your stitches: Purl the MC and knit the CC for one round, or as many as you like. This also locks the fabric together at these points. You can also insert a pattern here. Small simple ones work best, but you can also do complex Fair-Isle-style patterns all round.

6. Continue in this fashion for approximately 5.5 - 6, or as long as you want the hat to be. Near the end, place a marker after every 10th stitch. (Make sure you count each MC/CC pair as ONE stitch.) I find it easiest to make them different colors from my BOR marker. The last 10th stitch should be right before the BOR, so there's no need to place a marker.

7. Decrease round: Work to the last 2 stitches before each marker. We'll call them stitches #7(MC), 8(CC), 9(MC), and 10(CC). *K2tog stitches #7 and 9. (See above for double-knit K2tog). SSK #8 and #10. (See above for double-knit SSK).* *Repeat for each marker. 8 sts decreased. (72)

8. Knit one round plain double-knitting.

10. Decrease round. Repeat from step #7. (64)

11. Knit one round plain double-knitting.

12. Decrease round. (56)

13. Knit one round plain double-knitting.

14. Decrease round. (48)

15. Knit one round plain double-knitting.

16. Decrease every round until you have 24 sts left. (24) Switch to DPNs when necessary.

17. (Optional: I like the little round stripe at the top of the hat. If you don't, simply decrease as usual here.) Switch MC and CC for one round, i.e. Purl 1 MC, Knit 1 CC. AT THE SAME TIME CONTINUE DECREASES. (16)

18. Decrease once more. (Cool

19. Leaving a long tail of each color, break yarn. Thread MC tail through MC stitches twice. Thread CC tail through CC stitches twice. (It may be easiest to flip hat inside out to do this.) Pull tight and break yarn.

20. Weave in ends.

21. Block as you like.

If you have any questions, please comment or e-mail me!
2  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / V-shaped lace insert? on: February 14, 2007 01:25:51 AM
I'd like to knit something like this, but with lace inserts instead of dropped yarn-overs.

Is that at all possible? Are there certain lace stitches that would lend themselves well to such a thing?

I'd love any help you can all give!
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