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1  Re: DJ/Turntable Case + Speaker Stands in Completed Projects by Papercutninja on: September 18, 2006 07:14:06 PM
Skoo, I love local businesses! You're not REALLY soliciting, so it's ok. BTW, your prices on the 1210MK5 are really good, i'm actually in the market for a set thanks to my new job! Thanks for the suggestion, i actually have 2" foam padding that i am going to attach to the underside of the lid to prevent the platters from falling off the turntables during transit. That odyssey case is actually the one that i based mine off of, because i had the standard (non-battle) one.

Here are the instructions, as promised. Unfortunately i don't have progress photos to post!

Get plywood (a 4'x8' sheet is MORE than enough) cut into these pieces:

(6) 19 x 3 x 1/2 (A)
(4) 44 x 3 x 1/2 (B)
(2) 44 x 20 x 1/2 (C)

1/2" open or closed cell foam, cut into 3" wide strips.
2" open or closed cell foam

DJ hardware set: Metal corners, latches, 2" plastic port (optional), breakaway/liftaway hinges, handle

1" coarse Drywall/wood screws
Spray adhesive

4 yards of heavy winter-coat gauge fabric (i used wool, anything similar will work)

Table saw
Miter saw
Electric screwdriver
Measuring tape

Ok, so the first thing to do is to have the wood cut down. I went with 1/2" plywood. Thicker plywood can be used, but obviously the measurements would then have to be adjusted for such. I do not recommend using plywood any thinner than 1/2", as it won't be strong or stable enough for these purposes. I would say rent or borrow a table saw and miter saw to cut the wood down. My first attempt was using a jigsaw freehand, and it did NOT turn out well.

Once you have the wood cut down, you'll have 12 pieces, and a fair amount of scrap left over (for other projects!). As i have labelled it up there, the "A" parts are going to be the short sides and interior dividers for the case. You'll want to take two of the "A" parts and cut off a 1" triangle from one corner. Set these aside, they'll be your interior dividers and the cut-off corners will serve as cable pass throughs from the turntable to the mixer.

Obviously the "C" parts are going to be the top and bottom of the case and the "B" parts are going to be the long side. Pick one of the "B" parts and cut a 2" hole in it. This is another cable passthrough, this time for the power plugs and what not to poke out of. This is where the 2" plastic port in the materials section comes in. It cleans up the hole and makes it look a little more professional.

At this point, you'll want to "dry-fit" everything. Make sure you measured correctly and that your turntables and mixer will fit in there. If everytying turned out ok, you can start assembling the box. Grab the screws and start drilling and screwing away. Remember, you want to make it sturdy, as turntables are quite heavy. More screws=more gooder. Just make sure that you drill a pilot hole before you put the screw in, otherwise the wood will split. Put the sides on, and leave the dividers out for the time being.

Now that the basic box has been put together, its time to start looking ahead to the covering of the fabric. Figure out what direction you want the pattern (if any) to run in and cut your fabric accordingly. THe first bit of fabric you should adhere to your box is the interior of the box. Spray copious amounts of spray adhesive and bit by bit just cover the inside parts of the "C" pieces of wood, don't worry about the sides just yet. When you're adhereing it to the wood, make sure you pull the fabric tight, otherwise it may wrinkle or not stick to the wood. You can wrap those from the outside. Next, cover the interior dividers up, remember to make sure the patterns match.

Once you have covered the interior bases and the interior dividers up, then you can install the interior dividers into the box. Measure up your turntable and remember to ad 1/2" on each measurement to account for the foam padding.Make sure the measurements are correct, then assemble the interior dividers into place.

WOW, now it actually looks like a turntable case. This next step is tedious and simple, cut your cloth so that it will wrap from the outside of the case around the sides and cover any parts of bare wood. Remember you can glue it first and use a razor to trim off the excess.

The next step is to attach the foam padding. You'll want to either spray glue, hot glue, or (like me) use self-adhesive padding all the way around the sides of the turntable bays. Make sure it's dense enough to protect your expensive turntables. Next, measure out where the platter (round part) of the turntables will be and glue the 2" foam bricks to the underside of the lid. This prevents the platters from sliding off the spindle when you move them around.

Hardware is the last thing to do after you cover the entire box (make sure it's dry first!). Put the metal corners on each external corner line up the latches and the hinges and attach the handle. Wasn't that easier than you thought?

Again, questions are welcomed and if you need the google sketchup, lemme know!
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2  DJ/Turntable Case + Speaker Stands in Completed Projects by Papercutninja on: September 06, 2006 04:41:28 PM
Hi everybody! This is my first Craftster post. I decided to build a Turntable case, also known as a coffin, because my old one didn't have the right layout. I like the "battle style" layout better; that means that the turntables are turned vertical, as opposed to horizontal. Either way, i didn't want to spend $200+ on a store-bought one, so i bought some wood and some wool herringbone cloth and went to town. I designed it on Google SketchUp. This is the result.

This is the case with the lid closed. I do realise that i don't yet have a handle on this to carry it with, but i'm waiting to pick up some vintage suitcases to scavenge those handles.

This is the case open and with the lid removed. The hinges are breakaway hinges so i can either have it open or removed.

Close up of the material/closed cell foam padding around the turntables.

Also, i decided to make myself a set of speaker stands from some prethreaded 36" X 1/2" iron pipe and standard flanges. I jig-sawed out Union Jacks as the base from some scrap ply.

All told, this cost about $70 to build and was really surprisingly easy. The hardware was the hardest to find, but good ol' eBay was the place to go for that. It might not be perfect, but i love it and it makes me proud!

If anyone wants better pictures or the actual google sketchup plans, PM me and i'll get it out for you.

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