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1  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Beads: Discussion and Questions / Re: Photographing your work on: April 26, 2012 10:56:02 AM
Can you show a "bad" picture? It is easier to figure out how to make it better that way Smiley

Something that is really handy to know is the focal distance of your camera (look up "minimum focal distance" and your camera model) because a lot of blurry jewellery pics are from people getting too close.
2  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Beads: Discussion and Questions / Re: Crimping on: April 26, 2012 10:52:52 AM
Flexible wire like Tigertail?

There are a few options that are worth considering.

The easiest is getting something called a crimp cover. It is basically a larger hollow crimp that fits over the functional squished crimp to make the whole thing look like a round bead. They are a bit more specialty than crimps so you might need to look in a jewellery-specific shop.

Another option is to use crimping pliers. These are single-purpose pliers that flatten and then fold the crimp bead, making it look rounder. There are some people who find this works, others say it weakens the crimp too much. It likely depends on the quality of the crimp and pliers.

There are also many types of crimps, as well as different lengths and diameters. Getting one that is only just large enough helps avoid the giant flat crimp look Wink

I usually disguise the crimps by making sure they are not the last thing I thread on. Most times people thread their necklace and then a crimp, loop the wire through the finding, back through the crimp, and then squish and cut. That can look really messy. What I find is better is to use one or more crimps and thread beads in between them, like so:


Does that make sense? So you thread bead > crimp > bead > crimp > bead > clasp > turn around and thread back > crimp > cut wire one or two beads down from the last crimp.

The problem with this method is that you are usually working with small-hole beads that are strung tightly together, so it doesn't always work, but it is a nice easy finish that doesn't require any different supplies or tools Smiley It is also handy if your piece is particularly heavy or if you don't trust your crimps to hold Smiley

Hope that helps Smiley
3  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Beads: Discussion and Questions / Re: Spray paint or Gesso to prime wood beads? on: April 24, 2012 07:47:45 AM
I've spray painted over gloss and had the stuff chip off, but I think it depends on what you are doing with them after they are painted. I stabbed at them with a sharp needle and ground glass beads against them for a few hours so it might not have been the fairest test.

In my experience, using acrylics over that glossy wood is much better for further work. I've done it without sanding and had pretty good results, but sanding would be safer Smiley

Also, spray paint seems to smell for a few weeks (I was surprised!) and if it is a jewellery piece, having that near your nose might be a bit stinky. 
4  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Beads: Discussion and Questions / Re: Fabric for bead embroidery? on: April 24, 2012 07:40:13 AM
Most of the time bead embroiderers use LSS (Lacey's Stiff Stuff) to do the actual embroidery on and Ultrasuede as a backing. Ultrasuede is a sort of compressed faux suede rather than a woven one. 

I've used a bunch of things, but the best substitute for LSS in my area is cheap acrylic felt. It is compressed and easy to stitch through, much like LSS, but has more wayward fibres. For the backing fabric, you can use pretty much anything providing you seal the edges with some sort of anti-fray liquid. Microsuede (a woven faux suede) is a good choice, but so is light denim, cotton drill, and I've even seen people use fake leadlight paint to cover/secure the stitches. I'd avoid real leather unless you have a thimble and a lot of patience. Deerhide might be OK, but I tried pigskin lining (the inner split, looks suede-like and is pretty thin) and it was quite difficult!

Hope you have success! :-)
5  CITY GUIDES FOR CRAFTSTERS / AUSTRALIA / Re: SYDNEY check in on: May 04, 2006 05:06:35 AM
Sticking my head in too Smiley I have read page #1 and This page... I'll do the rest later!

I'm a seed beader with some leathercrafting, papercrafting, X-stitching and now, knitting tendencies. Its an illness really, I have to try everything and more often than not, I end up loving it.

I'm based in the hills district, but range from Penrith to Chatswood on a regular basis.

Popper, have you tried The Wool Inn at Penrith? Small store, but the ladies seemed ok (albeit a bit frazzled, it is always busy when I've walked past) I'm ducking in on Sunday so I'll throw them some curly questions and see how pleasant they are Smiley
On the up-side, if they aren't super dooper nice, there is a lolly shop in the same arcade Smiley
6  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Join new thread? on: May 04, 2006 03:29:05 AM
Hi Smiley This is my very first post here.

I have just taken the giant step of learning a fabric craft. I *thought* I had picked a simple one to start with, but alas, there are many thinks that knitting books and how-to's fail to mention.

The main one is how on earth do I join a new piece of yarn? My cat decided to play kill-the-yarnball and i now have several pieces of mohair that I would liuke to use, but am unsure how to join them on properly. In my practice swatches I was using small reef knots, but I figured there was probably a clever way to join things up. Smiley

My plan is to use every leftover ball of mohair I have in this scarf. I got a bag of wool from my grandmother and there are many small lots that look lovely but are pretty hard to use on anything substantial. How do I go about changing colours? the same as just adding new yarn of the same colour?

Thanks for the help Smiley
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