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1  CLOTHING / Shoes: Completed Projects / Re: Fit for a Queen on: March 08, 2010 07:31:42 PM
Woah, trompe l'oeil!  I definitely thought that you had glued lace on to the sides.  It's a beautiful addition to the shoe--and such a dimensional drawing!
2  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Re: How Bazaar! Corks 'n' Crochet on: February 06, 2010 02:59:21 PM
What a unique and awesome idea!  I love the variations you created too.  Very cool!
3  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: Reconstructed / Re: Cardboard cuff bracelet on: November 23, 2009 03:56:25 PM
The bracelet looks great!  You have excellent craftsmanship and a great eye for choosing patterns.

I love your idea for the display too.  I'm not sure if you are planning to take photos or set up a display to sell them, if you are I have a small suggestion!  If you could make another display in a solid color, the contrast would really make your bracelets pop.  I love the pattern on the display that you made, I think it would work great for solid colored bracelets.  Just a thought!

Hope to see more of your work!  Smiley
4  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Re: Crayon dress on: February 13, 2008 06:23:17 PM
I want it!!  You did a great job!
5  CROCHET / Crochet: Discussion and Questions / Re: Tiramisu ribbon decision - help! on: February 11, 2008 05:29:54 AM
I vote for 1. Yellow Polka Dot which is so classic and lovely and really complements the crochet!
6  CRAFTY BUSINESS ADVICE / Get Product and Website Opinions / Re: many colourful vinyl pouches! opinions? on: November 09, 2007 05:48:38 AM
I just wanted to jump in on the pricing question because I like to see artists receiving a fair price for their work!  I think the best thing to do is use a simple formula to figure out how much to price your pouches.

Materials + Hours of time worked (your hourly wage) = The price of the object

So, you already said your materials cost about $2.50.  Let's just say you want to make $10 and hour and it took you 1 hour to make the pouch.  $2.50 + 1 hour ($10) = $12.50

In this way, your pricing will be consistent, and you'll always make sure you're getting paid for your time!  I think a lot of crafters think about their cost in materials, but often forget to charge enough for the amount of time they have put into a project...

As far as how many items to make...I usually try to have a couple of everything.  But if someone wants something that you run out of, you can always give them a business card and make it for them later...

I hope that helps!!! Smiley
7  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Re: Origami bird and blossom! on: September 18, 2007 05:36:48 AM
That's beautiful and such a great design!  You should totally submit the idea to threadless.com (if you're into that sort of thing), I think everyone would love it!
8  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Re: Zombies ate My Neighbors ! now with close up pics on: August 16, 2007 12:58:57 PM
I think it's adorable!  I wouldn't have thought to pair the pattern with the pinstripe, but I love them together!  Looks good with your colorful sleeve too!  Great job Smiley
9  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Discussion and Questions / Re: Precious Metal Clay on: August 08, 2007 09:00:16 AM
Hello! I'm looking into trying PMC/Art Clay Silver and I want to know more about firing it..  I don't particularly want to spend a lot of money on a kiln specifically for it, but I think I would be uncomfortable with a torch.. (Perhaps I could have someone help who isn't though.)

I have a small ceramics kiln in my garage, does anyone know if this would work for pmc/acs? It hasn't been used in a while, so it would probably need to be cleaned and checked to make sure it worked properly but that would definately be less expensive than buying a new one.

One more thing, how much filing/sandoing/buffing is actually needed? Starter kits come with lots of various tools, but how many of them are actually important? Can I use tools that I've been using for polymer clay?

thanks for reading all that! Smiley

I have never used a ceramics kiln for PMC, but as long as your kiln can achieve the proper firing temp (and hold it there for the necessary time), I think it would work.  I think the main disadvantage is that even a small ceramics kiln is probably a lot larger than a jewelers kiln, thus takes more time and money to heat it...

I think the starter kits are very helpful, but there are definitely other options.  Look at the tools in the starter kit, and see what you have that you could use instead.  Then just experiment!

One thing to remember is that you should do as much finishing as possible before you fire the piece.  It is much easier to sand hardened clay than a fine silver object.  When you are sanding clay, you can use fine sandpapers or emery boards/nail files.  If you find a rough edge after the piece has been fired, you'll need small files and sandpaper to smooth it.

Also, when fired PMC comes out of the kiln, it has a white look to it.  The silver needs to be burnished to look shiney.  Many people do this by tumbling their work, but you can also rub the piece with a burnishing tool.

Good luck--let us know how everything goes!
10  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Discussion and Questions / Re: Precious Metal Clay on: July 26, 2007 09:58:28 PM
Guys, I need help. I plan on making a necklace with a little baby hand on the end, based on a doll hand. How should I go about it? Should I make a mold, or just cover the item in PMC paste? I'm kinda new to this. I'd like to keep the detail in the fingers, like the creases and finger nails, so it's obviously a child's hand. Any tips are welcome. Thanks.

PixieDust is right, if you put paste on the hand, the plastic will melt and burn out inside of your kiln.  This is ok if you have proper ventilation, but if not, it will smell bad (not too mention bad for the environment...).  The other problem with painting paste on the outside of the hand is that once it is fired, you will be left with a rather thin hollow form.

I would suggest using a 2-part cold molding silicone to create a mold of the plastic hand.  This is the brand I use (I just did a google search, and it was the first one to come up): http://metalclay.com/rpm-cart/product.phtml?ProdID=BelSil-70g
It sets in 15-25 minutes once you have mixed the two parts together.  Also, the silicone surface is great because PMC will not stick to it.

Another alternative would be to shape a hand out of the lump clay and use tools to put add the creases/nails.  You could practice making some out of sculpey, then try the real one in PMC!

Hope that helps!
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