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1  Stripey T-Shirt for a girlfriend in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: May 10, 2007 04:48:43 PM
i made this shirt for my friend, cuz it was awesome stripe fabric at the Goodwill but there wasnt enough of it to make a shirt for myself, so I made it for her cuz shes tiny.

i think it came out quite well, although maybe the sleeve cuffs could have been a pinch smaller.
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2  Re: black and white skirt in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: October 25, 2006 10:56:46 AM

Hopefully this makes some sort of sense!

MATERIALS: Cotton Jersey Knit f/ waistband (you may be able to recycle a t-shirt), Cotton weave of sometype for the bottom part (could be a lightweight suiting, novelty print, etc. or maybe you could recycle a bed sheet if not too thin or a curtains if not too thick), Lightweight Fusible Interfacing for buttons area, Some buttons, Double Fold Bias Tape for the hem.

Ok, so you need you need two measurements.  If you look at pieces 1, 2, and 3, these are all for the wasteband and are cut out of cotton knit.  pieces 2 and 3 can be accomplished by cutting two #1 pieces at the same time, and then just cutting one of those in half.  Anyhow, you are going to cut an hourglass type shape, which will eventually be folded in half when sewn.  Depending on how tall you are you may wish to have your wast band a different length.  The one I made was about 8" long i believe.  So if you want it like the one I made, piece one will be 16" tall.  Measurement A = hip divided by 2 , and Measurement B = Waistdivided by 2 minus 3".  The cotton knit is stretchy so it will stretch to fit.  You probably shall not need elastic to keep the skirt on. 

SEW the indented ends of pieces 2 and 3 to the indented ends of piece 1.

Pieces 5 are light fusible interfacing.  this is to make the 'placket' kind of like on a polo shirt, for where the buttons go.  Its for stiffening up the placket it so it doesnt stretch funny and look weird when the skirt is worn.  You need 2 pieces about 3/4"-1" wide and almost as long as you want your waste band to be, so we'll say in my example they are 7" long.  Iron one piece each, on the flat ends of of pieces 2 and 3 in the bottom corners, about 1/4" from the edges (seam allowance).

Fold the waste band inside out in half and Sew the flat ends of 2 and 3.  Turn it all back inside out and it should start looking quite nice!

Now to finish the placket.  Overlap the ends of the waste band by ~1", basically overlapping the interfaced sections.  Baste the bottom of the waste band where the placket is, so a quick little 1" long stitching.  Now create Buttonholes on the front part of the placket, and attach your buttons to the inside part of the placket.  Your on your own on that one.


To finish the rest you need pieces 7 and 8.  I used lightweight suiting, but you can use basically anything for this part.  The long side is the full width of the fabric, say 45" or 54", what ever it comes in.  The length... thats up to you.  If you want a mini skirt, this may end up only being six or eight inches long, or maybe you want it down to the ankles and make it 30 inches long.  In my example it was 18" long about.  Anyways, refer to the bottom illustration to see how the bottom parts are folded.  Your going to have to do some math here.
If your hips divided by 2 is say.... 20 inches (40 inch hip), then we need to fold each piece down to that width.  actually, we want to ad a couple inches to that.  when we attach it to the waistband the waist band can stretch, so we'll add a couple inches to this part for a more forgiving fit.  otherwise if something goes a little two tight theres nothing you can do because the weave wont stretch like the knit part.
Anyhow, lets pretend we are using 45" wide fabric, and 40 inch hip.

40 inches divided by 2 = 20" plus we had 2" for safety
the illustration shows how i folded it.  depending on how much or how little you need to fold it down too... you may get pleats that butt up against each other, or you may have 2" gaps between each pleat.  Whatever you end up with is fine, as long as it end sup being the right width.

Pin pleats in place and baste them.

You should now have two pleated pieces of the appropriate width.
Sew the ends of the two pieces together!

Next Hem the bottom edge.  You can hem normally, but in my case I decided to attach 1/4" double fold bias tape using a wide zigzag stitch, for contrast and it came out very very nice.

Bottom piece complete!

Sew the bottom to the waste band, button 'er up, and put it on!!

Ok, hope that explains it all well.  I think depending on how fast or slow you work, you can amke this skirt in 1-3 hours.  I think it took me about 2 hours but i cant remember.

So since I bothered to make this tutorial I EXPECT someone to make it, and I want to see it.
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3  BLACK AND WHITE SKIRT (TUTORIAL NOW ON PAGE TWO!!) in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: October 22, 2006 10:39:52 PM
TUTORIAL is now up on page 2

i made this skirt a little while ago for a friend whos a girl.  for some reason i wanted to make askirt, which is weird because im a dude.  but i liked how it came out.  tell me wha tyou think i designed it myself

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4  NEW Ivy Cap Hat w/ pseudo tutorial!! (i.e. hatmaking tips) :):):):) in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: September 28, 2005 06:46:53 PM
I think I have finally totally perfected my Ivy Cap pattern, and it is ready for selling, here is the hat I made today!

Clockwise from top left:  The hat itself; Brim and lining detail; rear tag detail; pattern pieces.

It's made from a brown/tan herringbone corduroy, with a really sweet megasized houndstooth print for lining (i loved the fabric as soon as I saw it!).  the sweatband is cotton interlock

SO, Pseudo Tutorial:

A lot of people asked for 'tutes' in other threads about hats I made.  Im not going to do a full tutorial for several reasons: A) I will be selling these, so I don't want to give it all away B) I am too lazy to do that many pictures and writing C) It took me 5 attempts with drafting my own pattern to get it right, so I think you should have to figure out some of it yourself as well [fortunately, hats only cost $2-3 to make so mistakes are cheap]

Anyhow you can see in the picture above all the pieces used for the hat.  They are (going top-bottom, left to right): Sweatband of cotton knit, Double Fold Bias Tape for edge of the bill, canvas patch (optional, i made it with a iron on transfer, this is jsut as a label for my clothing company), 2 pieces cut to bill shape out of Peltex (peltex is a super thick stiff interfacing.  it feels alot like stiff starched craft felt), top piece inner lining (made out of just plaint out novelty print fabric), top piece outer of corduroy (could also be denim, or canvas,etc.), brim pieces of cord (they have the exact same shape as the peltex pieces except they extend a little longer so to have room to attach to the crown of the hat), inner lining side pieces, and finally the outside side pieces.

So here is a basic run down of how I make this.  The brim, and sweatband information can be applicable to other styles of hats as well, jsut attached to a different crown.

1.  first i sew the outer side pieces together, inside out.  THen I zig zag stitched the label onto the back

2.  then i zig zag stitch all around the edge of the two peltex pieces to hold them together.

3.  then i zigszag stitch on the covering for the bill over the peltex, again with a zigzag stitch that goes over the edge.  the fabric and and peltex is lined right up flush so there is no overlap/allowance of the fabric.

4.  then I zig zag stitch on the double fold bias tape all around the edge of my bill so it has a nice finished look.

5.  in this hat i actualy sew the front of the crown to the end of the bill, so i do that now, because its easier to do it before i put the top piece on. i make sure to leave about 3/8" of the sidepiece of the hat overlapping past the end of the bill, so i have space to sew on the top piece

6.next i sew on the top piece, with it sewn inside out, so when im done i pop it right side out and it looks dandy!

7.  then i sew the innerlining together in a similar fashion as the outer part of the crown

8.  Then I take the sweatband piece and sew its ends together.  it then gets folded over in half.  the circumfrance of the sweatband is less than that of the hat, so that it is strecthed to accomadate different head sizes, as well as provide a snug but comfy fit

9.  finally it all comes together.  the sweatband is sewn to the crown, and the crown to the inner linging.  basically the crown of the hat is fit inside of the sweatband, with the bill in between the two.  and then the inner lining is stuck inside the crown.  it all gets sewn together (it gets especially difficult at the bill because things are starting to get thick and stiff).  finally, the sweatband is folded up inside of the hat, and a top stitch is sewn all the way around the hat from one side of the bill to the other (basically aorund 3/4 oif the hat).  This makes sure the sweat band folds up nice and stays inside the hat!

THats its!  Its kinda simple yet kinda complicated.  Thats all the info i can give right now, but with that you should be able to get one right in about... 3 tries, instead of my 5 haha
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5  Ivy Cap in tan corduroy in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: September 21, 2005 09:58:53 PM

it took my 5 tries, but i finally figured out a pattern to make an ivy cap!!  im really happen now that i finally got it right.  what do you think ( dont laugh at my goofy grin)
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6  CRAZY Dip Dye Bleach blotch Stencil TEE SHIRT in Dyeing: Completed Projects by ericsktbrdr on: September 14, 2005 06:39:50 PM
Ok so, I sewed this blank white t shirt from scratch and then I dip dyed it in RIT royal blue dye.  And it looked sweet.  So then I wanted to do a stencil (of a coyote), but using bleach in a spray bottle.  But when I did it, it bleeded, so it looked like a blob and then also there was splotches of overspray fromt he stencil.  So it was a disaster.  So to save it, I splattered my bleach drips all over so it would look like i meant to do it..., and then resprayed the coyote stencil in blue spraypaint, so it came out as like this neat halo effect.  Anyway, Im kinda bummed because it didnt come out as I envisioned but then it did still look real neat in its own way.  Kinda reminds me of outerspace or something

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7  Vee Neck T-shirt in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: August 27, 2005 06:19:43 PM
I just did this V Neck shirt today, its charcoal with red collar and red contrast stitching plus a felt coyote applique, tell me what you think

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8  Re: Polo shirt in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: August 27, 2005 11:49:32 AM
i tested my first felt applique today i think it came out pretty good.  i plan on putting it on the bottom corner of my shirts as embellishment.  its a coyote, about 7 inches wide

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9  Re: Polo shirt in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: August 26, 2005 11:56:18 PM
i dont know.  how much do you think its worth?  it takes me about 2.5 hours to make a polo, so i figure $10/hr = $25 + 5 for fabric = $30?  Does that sound too much?

Heres some other stuff I have made

i tried to make a track jacket but its got some bad things but the next one i make will be good
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10  Polo shirt in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by ericsktbrdr on: August 26, 2005 11:09:26 PM
Hi, I jsut found this website Im very glad Ive been looking for something just like this for awhile.  Ive been learning how to sew over the last few months I try to make things like hats, t shirts.  Lately ive been trying to figure out how to make a good pair of jeans.  I make my own patterns to sew with because patterns cost too much and they dont have em the way i would like and plus i feel better designing it myself, although it has taken me several tries until i get something right.  i want to start making clothes to sell online very soon.  here is a polo shirt i did a couple months back

interested to hear what you think.  i use a inexpensive white sewing machine
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