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11  Re: another nursing (breastfeeding) outfit in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by rostitchery on: May 17, 2006 08:50:19 AM
as i mentioned, i have a hard time getting clear pictures of red things--i have no idea why--so this is a picture of another top that i made from the same pattern.  you can see that the outer layer pulls to the side, revealing the inner layer with the nursing access.

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12  another nursing (breastfeeding) outfit in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by rostitchery on: May 13, 2006 08:56:56 AM
since there seems to be a great need for more trendy nursing clothes, i thought i'd share some more things from my wardrobe.  this is the outfit i made to wear for the graduation breakfast at our school yesterday (none of "my" students were graduating but lots of the singers i've costumed over the years were).

the top is just a surplice empire top made with a double layer in the upper bodice.  the inside layer has a section cut out to expose the breast.  to nurse, all i do is move the top layer to the side.  the breast is still completely covered by the inner layer of fabric.

the skirt took less than an hour.  i cut a yoke out of tulle and pleated the chiffon to it, i did it all by eye without measuring any of the pleats.  then i topstitched in random pattern all over the yoke section to hold the pleats in place.  i put in an invisible zipper on the side, and cut an old slip to use for the lining. 

edited to add:  i'll try to get better pictures of the top, right now it is in the wash.  for some reason i have a hard time taking good pictures of anything that is reddish.
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13  Re: outfit of the day--WARNING: covered breast on display :) in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by rostitchery on: May 10, 2006 08:01:51 AM
you guys, i'm completely OVERWHELMED by your response!  esp. since to me, nursing clothing is just day-to-day wear.  Smiley 

i was asked for a tutorial, which is difficult because i patterned this from my own sloper, but i can tell you how to do that:

make an empire waist pattern.  rotate the waist dart to the center front.  then copy the top 2" of the lower bodice and align the center front with the center front of the upper bodice, thus creating the extension for the twist.

the lower bodice is NOT SEWN TO THE TOP.  as you can see in the picture of the inside of the top, it has elastic on the top edge which holds it in place.  when i nurse, i pull up the twist and pull down the lower bodice. 

and i finally got ella to let me get a picture of us together!

i finished her outfit last summer and she's been wearing about once a week so it is a little faded from being in the sun so much.  she's only 2.5 years old, but she is very tall.  we are an attachment parenting family which includes extended breastfeeding, so having a nursing wardrobe is really important.  ella comes to work with us, and for some reason she is not as concerned about flashing the dean as i am.  Cheesy
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14  outfit of the day--WARNING: covered breast on display :) in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by rostitchery on: May 09, 2006 02:13:05 PM
since i sew for a living, i don't post many things i've sewn--it would take up a lot of space here.  Smiley  but today i'm wearing something new that i really like so i thought i'd post some pictures.

this is the skirt, i copied it from a skirt that was in burda magazine last summer.  the fabric is a bedsheet i got at the thrift store:

this is the complete outfit, the twist top is a copy of a top that was in the same magazine (but i drafted my own patterns for both):

the top has a secret access under the twist so i can nurse my baby without lifting up the shirt.  the lower bodice is a completely separate layer, with an elastic edge to keep it in place when not nursing (forgive the extreme close up of my hand):

inside view of the lower bodice:

my little girl is wearing a dress made from more of the same bedsheet and pants made from the same t-shirt but so far i haven't been able to get her to let me hold her long enough to get a picture together.  Smiley  i know, mommy/daughter outfits are so cliche but as long as she doesn't care, i'm going to indulge myself.

thanx for looking!  and comments are always welcome.
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15  Re: wrap around pant pattern anyone??? in Sewing Pattern Reviews by rostitchery on: March 15, 2006 07:32:10 AM
i know exactly what you're looking for and they aren't sarong pants, they aren't thai fisherman pants, they are split pants with open side seams from hem to waist.

i'll post a diagram later when i'm on my design computer.

edited here because i'm back.  Cheesy

these are called bali pants, they are sewn together thru the crotch curve and all the rest of the edges are hemmed.  ties go on the waist--either as separate pieces sewn on or as extensions to a waist band.

cut the pattern piece twice, on the fold as indicated below.

the waistline of the pattern is equal to 1/2 the total waistline measurement.  to be completely accurate, it should be the front-to-back half, not the side-to-side half.  the side seam length is as desired.  the crotch curve is 10"-11" deep, and 4"-5" wide.  the front and back crotch curves are cut the same, you can modify this if you like to allow for a round tummy or round behind.

in this diagram, the center vertical line indicates both the grainline and the side seam.  the horizontal line that intersects the grainline indicates the knee depth.

let me know if you have any questions about the draft, how to sew the pants, or how to wear them.

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16  Re: TOO BIG IN THE CROTCH in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by rostitchery on: March 11, 2006 04:17:19 AM
you should have started MUCH lower in the leg, so that the intake was more gradual.

edited to add this diagram with the following information:

whatever amount you intend to take out of the crotch, you must go down at least THREE TIMES THAT DEEP on the thigh, and up to FIVES TIMES AS DEEP.  in other words--if you need to take up 1" in the crotch, you need to start at least 3" down on the thigh, and up to as much as 5" deep.  the exact amount is dependent on the cut of the pants and the fabric.  experience will be your best guide.

you will NOT see the final result of this alteration until you trim out the excess fabric from the crotch seam allowance.  as long as that fabric is there, it will pull on the seam and cause it to bunch up.  it should be trimmed down to no more than 1/4" and pressed HARD.

in this diagram, the red line is the stitching line.  you can see that the intake on the leg is gradual, but well below the original crotch point (i located the uptake point 1" above the crotch and the end points 3" below the crotch point).

when i get to the shop later this morning, i'll find a pair of pants that i've done this adjustment on so you can see a real example.
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17  Re: I WANT A GEREN FORD TOP! in Designer Clothing Homage by rostitchery on: March 10, 2006 06:56:15 PM
here is a quick diagram/schematic of how this top is patterned.

the facing is sewn right side to the wrong side of the top then turned to the outside.  the center front is then stitched closed with the facing free, then the facing is stitched in place.

there are other ways to achieve the same look but this is the simplest for the home seamstress to do with ordinary tools.

next--stitch one side seam closed (your choice which one).  stitch the casing to the inside.  then close the other side seam, leaving an opening where the casing is.  

finish the hem and armscyes by turning twice.

thread cord thru casing.

let me know if you have any questions.

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18  some costumes--PICTURES ADDED! in Costumes: Completed Projects by rostitchery on: January 17, 2006 08:22:23 AM
greetings all!  i haven't been around the clothing forums much recently, but i have posted some entries on my blog showing what has kept me away--72 costumes for the opera "a little night music".  the entire show was done in reconstructed clothing, i've posted an entry on a tester skirt, and two entries (now three) so far on actual costumes.  you can find them at my rostitchery blog (see sig line), in the archives under "a little night music".

edited here at the request of some craftsters who asked me to add pictures and links:

walking suit

riding suit

dinner gown

thanx for looking!  i'll be posting more entries as i get each costume documented.
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19  toddler leggings on the knifty knitter in Knitting: Completed Projects by rostitchery on: December 19, 2005 07:07:56 PM
i made a prototype pattern for toddler leggings on the knifty knitter:

details and pattern are here:


they could be better, but i'm pretty pleased with them for a first attempt.  if anybody has suggestions on how to make these better, i'd love to hear them.  i've never knit any before on needles, so i was kind of making it up as i went.  but needle knitted leggings is my goal--when i was a teenager one of my teachers gave me a pair of full-body leg warmers that she had knit herself, and ever since then i've been dreaming of doing the same.  i have a good start--i knitted a sock!--but i have a a lot to learn yet before i get to the needle knit leggings so the knifty knitter is my way station.

thanx for looking!
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20  wrist warmers on a knitting loom in Knitting: Completed Projects by rostitchery on: December 10, 2005 06:32:19 AM
greetings all!  i posted this picture the other day but it got lost in the server meltdown, i decided to post it again because i've gotten a lot of messages requesting the link to the pattern so here it is again.

the pattern is at my blog at this post.

i'd appreciate any feedback you have about how to improve the pattern, this was something i just thru together to see if the idea would work, but if anybody has suggestions on how to make it better, i'd be most grateful to hear them.

thanx for looking!
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