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1  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along! on: April 12, 2012 05:51:07 AM
So I took a ream of paper down to my Mums at Christmas and decided I was going to see if i could fathom this pattern out.  I spent an entire evening on the floor sticking pattern pieces together,  then next day I cut it all out in poly cotton sheeting and spent the next day or so figuring out how all the pieces fitted together.

At this point I realised that it was going to be a little tight on me.  I'm a uk size 10 and wear a 34B bra size so I had to figure out some ways to resize it to fit me (more on that later).

When I was back at home I cut out all the lining in red poly cotton and then I kind of lost interest in the project - I think I'd managed to sew a couple of bits together the wrong way round and couldn't be bothered to unpick them.  Then about mid March  I realised that if i wanted to wear the thing for an event at the end of April I'd best get going.

I've had a bunch of trials with this project.

1)  I made mine of white cotton drill with poly cotton applique over the top for the flag bits.  For some insane reason I took it upon myself to use heavy weight interfacing,  this meant that some pieces were a trial to stitch together because of the number of layers of fabric.  Particularly that finny bit down the back,  I'm fortunate that I've got a walking foot for my machine.   I also had to rip the interfacing out of the back peplum piece to get it to hang right.

2) So I was really good,  and pre-washed all my fabric on hot to get rid of the loose dye.  Apparently this wasn't enough, as I discovered when steaming a particularly stubbon bit that the red dye ran,  and I had several episodes where I had to go soak pieces to remove red splodges and wait for them to dry before I could continue.   If I wash this,  I'm going to have to make sure its on a cool cycle.

3)  Having to hand sew the back of all the binding to get a neat finish.

4)  I cannot for the life of me work out how to button it up like the pictures of the flag jacket.  I know that the end of that peplum bit is supposed to be slit but even then I couldn't make it look like the pictures,  I'd also got too much fabric for it to happily gather without looking like a ridiculous ducktail so I just stitched the entire bit together and I'm happy with how it looks.

Some thoughts if you want to sizing it up:

I noticed that piece 9 sort of wraps around the body in a spiral,  so my first attempt I just added 15mm to each side of this piece and that seemed to give me enough room.  When I cut the lining I realised that this left piece 7 looking obviously narrower,  so I  added only to the outer edge of piece 9 and added another 15mm to the lower side of piece 7.  However when I tried it on the dress form,  it still didn't fit,  so I added another 15mm to the edge of piece 10 where it joins to piece 9.   I also added 15mm to each of the zip edges on the sleeve to make it a bit wider.  I tried adding the same amount to the shoulder seam,  but this made the shoulder go all floppy,  so I compromised and added about 5mm to each piece so the armhole fitted me comfortably, and trimmed the attachment part of the sleeve to it fitted the new sleeve head.   All this messing about meant I had to add some length to piece 9 and piece 4 so they joined up properly at the neck point.   This changed the length of piece 9 so that I had to put all the grosgrain bits on by eye,  but actually that wasn't as hard as I imagined.   Anyway,  it fits,  but it is rather snug,  I suspect I should have taken into account the fact I used thicker fabric.

I think if you are particularly busty you'd want to look at pieces 4 and 5 which are basically a princess seam and give yourself some more room there,  there are also options for adding more space across the front by just making piece 2 a bit bigger.
Some advice if you want to do the flag version:

It's not actually as hard as it looks,  but the scribbled guide lines on the patten are just that and don't actually match up with the jacket in the pictures, in fact the layout for the sleeve in the PDF doesn't make the sleeve pictured as that has another row of white at the very bottom.

I started by making up the pieces I could see layout for on the pattern pieces,  then I filled in the gaps going by the pictures,  some of it I just made up.  The only really troublesome bit is pieces 1, 2 and 3 where you need to get the triangle lining up.  I ended up stitching the pieces together and drawing the layout on then cutting the coloured pieces to fit.  I actually find it worked better if you didn't try and match up the colour blocks on the seams.  Mine has ended up with more blue on the shoulder and I flipped the blocks on piece 9 because I thought the red triangle broke up an expanse of white I had going on.  In fact it doesn't matter at all if you don't make it look like the original,  you just need to pick random colour blocks and add in the odd triangle piece.   Having looked at it,  I have my doubts it was made from a flag,  just because of the layout of some of the pieces.

So I'm *nearly* done,  I'm just waiting for some more press studs,  having inadvertently bought 2 different sizes,  Currently the bottom bit doesn't have the lining stitched in, or the binding on and we're some snaps missing,  and I may move that flappy bit up by the collar as its ended up a lot lower than on the original and currently interferes with the top strap.  I notice that the runway version has only the bottom elastic strap,  the flag version has the bottom two,  but the pattern actually has three marked.  I also have to work out the best way of attaching my elastic straps.  I've changed a few things around, that applique bit on the peplum has turned into a strap with eyelets, and I've put eyelets and lacing in the sleeve and laced the sleeve on.

Anyway,  some pictures:


Spurred on by the pictures that Pso found I had a google about and found this video of it in motion on youtube - its at around 2:20.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSngMgo19Z4

I think I may also have figured out this "grosgrain a cheval" business: After some intensive googling,  I kept ending up at this page on alibaba about saddle stitch grosgrain http://french.alibaba.com/products/saddle-stitch-grosgrain.html, so my initial thought was whoever had drafted the pattern had planned to use that, and then changed their minds. I went with it as my binding because it just looks fab,  but I went narrower than the original.

Sometime later,  I found this page,  from the picture I think that 'au cheval' just means that it needs applying with saddle stitch,  although the picture there doesn't look like grosgrain,  it looks like some sort of tape with a twill weave.


"Placer le gros grain cheval sur les 3 paisseurs de tissu en commenant par le bas du devant et piquer petits points sur tout le pourtour du blanc corset. Faire de mme pour le haut et le bas des manches"

This page also mentions it:  http://www.crdp.ac-caen.fr/examens/04/500/242350/EP2-S.pdf

Big thanks to all the people on Craftster who posted their thoughts about this pattern,  I don't think I'd have ever attempted it if I hadn't read the original thread and seen it was possible.
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