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1  CLOTHING / Costumes: Completed Projects / Cyber-falls tutorial on: January 25, 2011 12:46:35 PM

Making your own awesome falls is pretty easy.  Here's what you need:

Tubular Crin (aka Cyberlox)
, however many colours you like; I used one package of pink and one package of fluorescent yellow/green in the Mini size.
Elastic - regular elastic or stretch lace
Additional embellishments ; I used craft foam but you can also thread beads onto the crin, add rexlace, ribbons, etc.

Tubular crin is springy and is essentially what is nowadays called 'horsehair braid' (no longer made of horsehair, it's a synthetic) woven in a tubular shape.

Measure how long you want your falls to be; each piece of crin should be double this length.  Be careful not to stretch it as you're cutting so you don't end up with pieces that are too short!

Tubular crin can fray, so before constructing the falls you should take all your sections and finish the ends by turning the edges to the inside for a few centimeters. On large crin you can use your finger; for this mini crin I used the blunt end of a ballpoint pen to push the edges inside.

Fold each piece of crin in half and loop it over the elastic, pulling the ends through the loop and tightening.  To avoid stretching the crin, pull tightly only near the elastic rather than from the ends.  If you pull this knot tightly enough it shouldn't go anywhere. Smiley

Continue until you have a long enough strip to wrap around your bun or ponytail.

I found the falls weren't full enough for my taste, so I folded extra pieces of crin and hand-sewed them on top of the knotted ones.

Here's one fall with all the crin added.

Craft foam (aka Foamies) is great for adding texture to cyber falls.  If you can get the large size sheets, they're easiest as you don't need to piece things together.  I only had regular-size, so I layered pink and green using hot glue.  Trimming the foam at an angle looks nicer IMO than leaving it blunt.

I hot-glued the top of each foam strip to the falls, folding the foam over the knotted and sewn crin.  If you wish to add Rexlace strands or metallic ribbon, this is the time to do it.  Thin accents can just be tied onto the falls the same way you did the crin.

To wear your falls, put your hair up in two secure ponytails or buns, the higher the better to get a nice full effect and coverage of your own hair.  Tie the elastic or stretch lace securely around your buns; it can be easiest to do this with your head upside down.  Use some hairpins to secure and you're done!

A headband or goggles are useful for hiding your hair if it doesn't match the falls you've made, or you can get clip-in bangs.

(the mannequin head has the falls pinned on, just to give you an idea of how they'll look)
2  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Rosebud & Shell Jewelry w/rubber tubing on: January 14, 2011 11:45:15 AM

I had these lovely iridescent rosebud beads and turquoise shell pendants, and wanted to try using the Beadalon rubber tubing, so here's my experiment.

Clear frosted tubing; it also comes in matte black.

For the bracelet I'm using memory wire; for the necklace I'm using silver beading wire. A colored wire would also look cool through the translucent tubing.

While my beads had holes large enough to go over the tubing, they would slide around. If you only want them at the center of a necklace, that would be fine, but I wanted them spread out evenly, so I then cut the tubing into sections. It kind of gives the illusion that the tubing goes through the beads; this would also work great on beads where the holes are too small for the tubing.

I fed the pendant and spacer beads onto the beading wire, then the tubing sections.

Finished bracelet; I added shell dangles to the loops I made on the ends of the wire. Memory wire is tough to bend but you can do it. Instead of shell dangles you could add crystal dangles, charms, etc.

Once your necklace is long enough, thread some crimp beads (I like two for security, and I like to put a spacer bead after them to keep the wire from stressing), add a clasp, and crimp. You can use special crimping pliers or just regular needlenose pliers; the crimping ones make a smaller bead-like result while regular pliers will mash the crimp flat into a rectangle.

3  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Stenciling: Completed Projects / Stencilling with Stencil Spray paint on: December 17, 2010 02:38:10 PM
I wanted to try this "Simply Spray" paint I found - there's a more liquidy dye/paint and a thicker one that's designed to give a screenprinted effect.

Here's a test with the thick stencil one:

My stencil; just for this test I used cardboard.  I found it tended to warp a bit from the paint so in the future I'd use plastic.  There were smaller loose pieces that had to fit in the centre of motifs so I used basting spray to keep everything secure.

I found the paint comes out more like a stream than a spray, so you have to adjust your technique.  The instructions say to start spraying on a piece of paper towel and then move onto your stencil; I found this worked well.  It kind of looks like a horrible mess in this pic and I started to panic, but once I took off the stencil it was all good.

Result:  Looks pretty nice!  The paint is thick and shiny like silkscreen.

I also tried the same motif and fabric with the more liquidy dye-type paint, but it didn't work well on the synthetic fabric; couldn't soak in so it just beaded up.  It works much better on cottons as it bleeds a bit; it's clearly designed for tie-dye effects or soft shadowy stencilling.

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