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1  Re: Jeans for my GF (PIC HEAVY) in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by bleedingfingertips on: May 18, 2010 12:30:27 AM
First, once again, thank you all for your kind words. I showed the replys to my GF and she was really smiling wide when she read the posts. Especially the ones that mention her as sexy and cute. (Don't mention it too often though, she only gets too much of that unbearable superior attitude against me Cheesy ) Nah, jokes aside, both of us really appreciates everything you write.

Words escape me.  I've seen what happens when men sew, though, and it is usually pretty amazing, like these totally rockin jeans.  I can well imagine an industrial machine was a joy to use in this case. 
I've sewn a pair of jeans on an old Singer slant machine, a 403A - and it did okay.  But, I think one of the older, straight needle machines might have better piercing power than the slant - at least that is what I've heard.  I'm looking at old Viking 6010's and 6020's that accept thick bobbin thread without adjustment.   
Again, these are simply the most amazing jeans I have ever seen in m life.   

To be honest, I don't have so much experience with other sewing machines than the ones I have now. I know that too thick bobbin thread makes my Janome MC6600P whine a little.

The following lines is a little of topic but.. well.. I can't controll my "typing devil" as I should Smiley

When it comes to piercing power, IMHO it is not so much of an issue for denim itself, but when you have two lines of topstitches over a folded, serged edge and you need to cross it, then the problems begin. For example the "crotch cross", hems and zipper area. Then the fabric is fixed to a "massive" piece of thick fabric. This kind of sewing can be done on a household machine but many times the needles is simply too tiny and you have to be very easy on hand when "hand turning" this stitches. And many times the fabric warps and the seams gets out of line.

I got fed up with this almost immediately and went of to buy my industrial "thick fabric" machine. It is completely useless to anything but straight lockstitching. But straight lockstitching (95% of a pair of jeans) is like sewing in butter. No matter how many layers or other seams it crosses.

This is a test strip I use to finetune thread tension when I reload the machine with a new thread. It is first 4 layer, then folded to 12 layer, then back to 4 layer again. The fabric is 16oz denim. I doubt that my Janome can eat this strip without alot of whineing.

Another thing that IMHO is a key to straight seams is to pin, serge, then topstitch. Then if the serging is done straight, it is no problem putting the topstitches straight. So for a guy like me, a really childish machine fetishist obsessed with denim an jeans fashion, a really powerful serger was the choice.

I fed the above test strip in my serger so I could balance the thread tensions even and it is (like with the lockstitch machine) like serging in butter. This again, can ofcource be made in a normal household machine with normal zig-zag, cutting, and basting. But if you (like me) are planning a lot of jeans and denim clothing a good serger really contributes to make the seams straight.

Another thing I DIY:ed that really helped to make things alot easier was the "feeding board". It is a piece of really smooth MDF scavenged from an old running machine. This board is to "extend" the sergers board and makes feeding the serger so much easier and smoother.

Ah.. machinetalk.. Cool I get the feeling I am drifting of topic again, I always have a tendency to do that Smiley. My point is, if you are planning a lot of jeans and denim projects, go for heavy gear. The layers of denim have a tendencey to really bulk up.
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2  Jeans for my GF (PIC HEAVY) in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by bleedingfingertips on: May 16, 2010 12:47:00 AM
After a lot of testing, fitting, sketching, turning and twisting my first jeans project is finished. My girlfriend wanted a classy looking bootcut jeans to wear with her high heels. I wanted to make a pair of tough, distressed, more trashy looking jeans. So the final result is a mix between my style and my girfriends ideas. I was not easy to make a pair of classy looking thrashy jeans Smiley

Well, here they are.

This is my GF with her new jeans from the front.

And this is the rear view.

The detalis of the back. The flap pockets is made of the same fabric but inside out. All inside out fabric is stitched in pink thread instead of the white used for all other seams. I think this adds a little to the classy look even if the flap pockets itself is to make them look more tough.

The embroidery on the back pockets is made with khaki coloured thread with a piece of "scrap canvas" inbetween. After the embroidery was finished and the canvas was trimmed and unraveled the back pockets get this look.

The belt loops is a little different than other jeans. They are ending in a "arrow" like shape with a stylish cross rivet attached to them, also with a piece of unraveled canvas inbetween. I just felt that this jeans are getting more and more cute instead of tough so they needed some special details to toughen them up a little.

Also, the back belt loop is a semidetached style of loop. One reason for this was that the belt stays better in place with a wide back loop. The other reason was that they needed something to "stand out" or "catch eyes".

Another view from the rear. The "jeans ass" look was very important for my GF so this is the result after numerous limes of ripping, basting, fitting, ripping, basting, fitting... As my GF has a pretty straight body type I wanted to add some illusion of a little wider butt. Hence the assymetrical pocketflaps. The buttons on the flaps is therefore wider apart and this adds to the impression of a wider butt. The buttons is snapbuttons (the same as the front) with a snakeskin pattern on them.

This is the detail of the frontpockets. The coinpocket has a small flap over it. I just thought it was a cool detail so I added it. The snapbutton is the same as the back and also the rivets are the same snakeskin style. I added some inside out fabric to the front pockets and topstiched them in pink. The shape of the inside out fabric gives the jeans a little more edgy look i think.

Here you can see the shape of the front pockets clearly. They have a somewhat "stretched" shape. I knew already before starting with this jeans that I really would like to do back pocket style front pockets. So the shape of the frontpockets is to add to the tougher style of these jeans.

The three snap buttons is a little different detail. We had a lot of discussion about this area. I wanted to do a wider waistband with the buttons in a vertical line, more brazilian style looking. My GF thought this was a better idea, and after I see how they turned out she was actually right.

After looking at most of my jeans in my closet I found out that most jeans only have one line of stitches to end them. I don´t know why but I really liked the idea of two rows of topstiches. So I made them that way Smiley

And then some random pictures of the jeans from different angles.

As always, C&C is more than welcomed.
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3  Spiked silver & titanium bra, MATURE, 5 pics in Costumes: Completed Projects by bleedingfingertips on: May 04, 2010 07:31:15 AM
I originally joined Craftster because of my rather new, but ever growing interest for sewing. I discovered fast that this forum contained a lot of other discussions and yesterday I got caught in a thread that discuss bare breast in art. This lead to that I dug up some old photos from my school project. I am not in a position now to make jewelry except from chainmaille pieces, they don't make so much noise when creating them Smiley. So this will probably be my first and last post in this category for awhile. I dont know if this project should be labeled mature but I go for safety first.. also.. it is not wearable as a bra so I guess it its a piece of jewellry Smiley

(EDIT) moved to this topic from "jewellry", suits much better here! Thnx Jungrrl (/EDIT)

This is the front side of the bra. The cups is forged out of .925 sterling silver, the spikes and hooks/clips is made out of titanium. This view shows the "wrinkles" in the metalpiece that connects the cups.

This is the side view, I can say it was my own little private hell to line up the spikes in a symmetrical, but still natural way. The bra is put on by first hanging it on the shoulders then, kind of fiddeling the boobs in place. It is almost impossible for the wearer to do it themselfs. So this top is not suited for longer periods of wearing, it is more targeted for photosessions.

Back view showing the lining. It is a normal bra, cut down and sewn to serve as insulation. They contain approx. 5mm (1/5 inch) thick foam. This was also quite tricky to fit. I had absolutely no sewing skills at that time but eventually it fitted behind the silver edges/pockets without wrinkling.

This is a closeup of the spikes. They are a little brighter in reality, the colour is anodized to a brown-green biological kind of colour. They are lathed to coneshape, then drilled and threaded inside. As the rest of the bra was made of titanium and silver I didn't want to mix "unholy" metals with it. After a lot of pain I found a titanium specialist that had a small (but very varying) surplus stock of titanium screws. They were leftovers from a order for an Ericsson communication sattelite. The spikes is attached with M1.6, M2,5 & M3 screws from the inside of the cups. The piece that connects the cups is held in place my two titaniumrodr plus 6x M1,6 screws. The upper hooks is attached with 4x M1,6 screws each, and the lower hooks with 3x M1,6 screws each.

You can also see the "knuckles/bumps" in the silvercup. These was added to give the top a more organic look. But after tapping the secont bump out, I really started to regret the idea of an "organic" looking bra. But when all 30 bumps was finished I really felt relieved and I was happy that I didn't have bargained at this "organic" look.

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This is my model that helped me during this period. Oh my, what that girl had to suffer Smiley First I convinced her to put on a fetish/latex dress that I had purchased. Then I totally wrapped her upper torso in plaster casts (hence the latex suit, it is not nice to get the delicate hair of your complete upper body glued in plaster). When the plaster had hardened I should cut it of her. I had no idea that plaster cast would be so hard cutting in so it ended up with me, trying to "saw" the cast of her. She kind of reminded me of frankenstein when she took of the latex suit. After that the cast was put together again and smeared in vaseline. Then I used it to make the glassfiber model that I used for the manufacturing process. She dropped some weight during this 6 month period so, as you can see at the cups and the shoulders there are a slight gap. Unfortunately, this top dont adapt to changes in the body so well Smiley.

But I am forever grateful for this patient girl. Without her support, ideas, critisism and last but not least her patience this project would never have been possible. I didn't have a digital camera at this time, so this is a normal photo scanned in a really sucky scanner. But atleast it shows the top in place.

(EDIT) After friendly moderation i withdraw all mature tagging except the last image Smiley (/EDIT)
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