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1  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / lining a coat with silk? on: December 23, 2010 03:18:40 PM
Does silk satin make an appropriate lining for a wool coat? It just seems so delicate, I'm not sure how well it would wear.

Also, what consequences might there be to using both silk and acetate together to make up the lining?

One last thing: If I do use silk for the lining, does that mean I should use silk thread?
2  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Coat lining and interlining on: November 25, 2010 02:54:13 PM
I making a wool coat and I want it to be really warm. What should I use to interline it?

And would a silk lining be all that much different from an acetate lining in terms of warmth?
3  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / How much fabric to make this coat? on: October 28, 2010 05:40:27 PM
Will 3 meters of wool be enough to make a slightly longer version of this coat with a hood? I haven't worked out a pattern yet but I want to take advantage of this sale that's ending soon.

4  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Questions about making a wool coat on: October 07, 2010 08:52:46 PM
So I've decided I want to make myself a winter coat. I'm drafting my own pattern and I have a few questions before I get started and ruin my wool.

1. I will be making a mock-up out of broadcloth with shell and lining to check how the pattern works out and practice attaching a lining, but I'm wondering, since my coat will be made of wool with a fairly heavy interlining (I'm looking for kind of a tight batting... type of thing) and satin lining, will I have to add pretty substantial ease to the pattern so the final product will fit? Or will it the difference be pretty minimal?

2. Do I really need to use that heavy an interlining? I want this coat to be warm enough for -40 C, but it will be made of 100% wool and lined with satin, like I said, so would just a cotton interlining be good enough? OR could I use fleece or flannel or something? It's just that I'm having trouble finding heavier interlinings.

3. Is hand-stitching pretty essential if I want this to be a really nice coat? I have absolutely no practice with slip-stiching or anything like that. Are there short-cuts I can get away with? I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world to practice hand-stitching... but still.

4. What kind of thread should I use? Is polyester fine, or should I opt for the silk thread?

5. How can I ensure this doesn't have to be dry-cleaned? Do I have to pre-shrink the lining, maybe? ...Can one even pre-shrink satin? (still haven't decided if it'll be silk or polyester)

6. Is silk or polyester satin more appropriate for this project?

Any help with any number of these questions is greatly appreciated! I will most likely be adding to this as I go along.
5  CRAFTY BUSINESS ADVICE / Crafty Business Discussion / Interview tips? on: September 21, 2010 11:57:36 AM
Can anyone give me some tips for my interview at an independant 60-year-old fabric store? Should I be dressed in something I made? Should I undermine the fact that I've next to no training in sewing? Etc.
6  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: Reconstructed / A... dress? ...just click it on: April 08, 2010 03:48:30 PM
I made this dress last night when I was meant to be studying...

I took this mens' undershirt, sewed up the side to fit and cut it at the waist, cut a strip off this tiny leotard, cut out a bit of fabric a little longer than my hip measurement, put it all together and voila!

7  CLOTHING / Clothing: Discussion and Questions / Sharing patterns on: March 12, 2010 10:07:41 PM
Am I allowed to scan a commercial pattern or take a photo of it and post it here? Any laws against it or anything?
8  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Pineapple skirt w/ bubble hem on: February 23, 2010 07:29:00 PM

Looks the same all around.

I was looking for something that stands out and I came home with this pineapple print.

To make the skirt, I cut out 2 rectangles as long as my hip measurement and wider than necessary so I could hem it to whatever length at the end.

I sewed one side together and pressed open the seam. Then I cut out a strip of fabric long enough to go around below my waist and overlap a little (+ seam allowances) and ironed on a strip of fusible interfacing the same size. I folded it not quite in half so the back stuck out a bit and ironed it up.

As it turns out, pulling on the bobbin threads to gather it was NOT flipping possible. I swear I tried a million times, but no matter how careful I was, the thread would break. Maybe the fabric was too stiff. Anyway, I ended up just pinning the gathers in place between the halves of the waistband and sewed over it.

After sewing on the button and buttonhole, I sewed up the other side of the skirt.

I hadn't planned on making it into a bubble skirt, but as my sister was helping me hem it, she suggested it. I pinned and sewed the casing (leaving enough space to slide in the elastic band).

I then wriggled the elastic through. After a frustrating hour of this, I got it all the way around, sewed the ends together and sewed the casing shut.

Edit: According to KimberlyErin, putting a safety pin on the end of the elastic to pull through saves you 55 minutes and a world of chagrin. Thanks!

I just wear it with the elastic turned up under the skirt.

Here's a close up of the button closing

Let me know what you think and show me if you try it out!

Also! I have a 23x45 inch piece of the fabric left. What should I do with it?
9  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Vintage dress knock-off on: February 08, 2010 07:23:35 PM
So I wanted to copy this dress:

I had never tried to copy anything before, so I read up on pattern drafting here : http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-01.html It's... so awesome. I can't tell you. If you're a beginner, go there. First chapter's all you need.
I don't have a dress form, so I fitted my slopers on myself which was a MOTHER of a hassle but worked out in the end. This is crazy crazy useful no matter what kind of dress or shirt or whatever you want to make. You'll want to test them with something cheap first. Here are said slopers:

I used tissue paper to alter it according to the design. Newspaper would work too. I extended the top a little below the waist. I also just cut it in pieces rather than having 2 darts. Make sure you don't forget to plan for the lap where the buttons will be. I don't think the buttons on that dress are functional but I wanted mine to be. Here is the resulting pattern:

Be aware of the grain of your fabric before and while cutting and for the love of god, don't forget your seam allowances!
I sort of half-assedly drafted the sleeve because I figured it didn't take much fabric so it wouldn't be a big deal to start over if I had to, but chapter 4 from the '42 book explains how to do it if you wanted to be more precise.

For the skirt part, I followed the method for a semicircular skirt in chapter 8.

To finish the neckline, I cut out these pieces

to sew right sides together and fold under.
I pinned the corresponding pieces together like so:

When I'd sewn over it, I cut notches into the seam allowance so it would lay flat.

I pressed the seam open, then pressed the pieces wrong sides together.

I did the same thing for the sleeves.

The wrong side of this fabric is kind of silky so I didn't bother lining the dress, but other types of material might require you to.
I marked the spots for buttons with tacks

then I folded and ironed the seam allowance under the lap

then top-stitched along both edges.
To put the top together, I lined up the nothes, pinned it, sewed, pressed open the seam, pressed it to the side then zigzagged the seam allowance, sewed the darts on the back, lined up the shoulder edges on the front and back pieces, pinned, sewed, then pinned and sewed on the sleeves.

Then I sewed the skirt pieces to the front and back. With that done, I sewed up the side of the dress, hemmed it and I was done! Rather than sewing in a ribbon or whatever is supposed to be at the waist, I'll just wear it with that belt. Piping or something would probably work, though.

No sweat  Wink

It's a little hard to get in and out of it. I might put in a zipper on the side.

Tell me what you think and show me if you make one too!
10  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Discussion and Questions / Paper tape for a dress form? on: January 27, 2010 02:03:36 PM
I feel a desperate need to make one of those paper tape dress forms because I'm really starting to get into dressmaking and trying to hold fabric up to myself to mark it is proving to be awkward and innacurate. I live in Winnipeg (Canada) and I've checked Office Depot and Staples, but no one has water activated paper tape. In fact, they look at me funny when I ask. I could make a duct tape one just to get some slopers out of it, but it'd be nice to have a durable dress form to work with. Does anyone know where to look for this kind of tape? Or know of other alternatives?
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