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1  Re: Help Id my "Vintage" Sewing Machine in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: April 16, 2010 10:05:32 AM
That is a Badged, HA-1, class 15 sometimes refered to as a "Singer clone".  These were made in Japan by various factories and then "badged" or labled with a variety of brands.  The "brand" on the machine usually ahs absolutley nothing to do with the factory that actually produced the machine.  They were labeled with what ever name the imorter or distributor thaought might aid in marketing/selling the macine or often with store brand names.

I have a full reveiw of this type of machine on my blog:

  It Looks Just Like an Old Singer.. Sort of... Review of The HA-1, Class 15 Clone

I recently serviced a GOLD colored Morse Ha-1.

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2  Re: Choosing a Walking Foot for Singer 6233, needing advice please? in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: February 12, 2010 01:26:37 PM
Yes, that is a slant shank (slant needle) machine. If the walking foot for slant shank Singers didn't fit, I suspect that the foot they send you was in reality, a low shank foot.

This article, Identify the Type of Feet for Your Sewing Machine has diagrams and pictures to really help explain the differences.

Here is a slant shank walking foot:

And here is a low shank walking foot of a similar style

The fitment issues you describe sound EXACTLY like you have the low shank version and you are trying to use it on a slant shank machine. 
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3  Re: I just bought an Elna in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: January 13, 2010 04:45:26 PM
Looks like this??:


That's an Elna 500 Electronic class 46.

You can buy a download of the manual here: http://www.sewingmanuals.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Elna.htm - just scroll down the page (NAYY)
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4  Re: Stretch fabric getting sucked into the feed dogs - help! in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: November 02, 2009 05:17:46 AM
No, I didn't suggest a ball point needle (aka jersey) for your situation. This type does NOT have the offset scarf that brings the thread loop loser to the hook to prevent skipped stitches.  A ball point needle is just like a standard needle expect for the slight rounding of the point.  Stretch needles are different.   I suggest a stretch needle.  Since you don't have one, then the tissue paper would be the way to go.

This type of needle has has slight ball point to the tip to help spread rather than cut the fibers (knits can 'run'), and the lower portion of the needle is offset so that the loop from the upper thread is brought in closer to the hook.
In the stitch formation process, the hook catches the loop of upper thread that forms behind the needle as it rises and wraps it around the bobbin and bobbin thread thereby forming a stitch.  With synthetic knits and stretch fabrics especially, there is less friction between the upper thread and the fibers of the fabric.  In such a case, the upper thread tends to slip back up with the needle rather than forming a nice sized loop for the hook to catch.  When the hook misses the loop, you get a skipped stitch.

The  stretch needle brings this loop closer to the hook and reduces skips stitches under these circumstances.  If you don't have a stretch needle handy, you can also use strips of tissue papaer to add friction to the process and just tear them away when you done

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5  Re: sewing machine cabinets - advice in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: October 19, 2009 05:54:01 PM
What model is your machine? 

Here is a Singer 638 Touch & Sew:


It's a FLAT BED machine.  Meaning there isn't a part that comes off of the bed to reveal an "arm"- hence the term free-arm. Below is a drawing of what an example of a free-arm type machine.  It has a bed extension that is removable.  With the extension removed, you can access a cylinder type sewing arm.

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6  Re: sewing machine cabinets - advice in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: October 19, 2009 04:43:25 AM
Keep in mind that most of the vintage cabinets are designed to hold flat bed sewing machines with hinge pin holes in the rear of the bed. Modification and fabrication will be required to get a newer, free arm machine to occupy the space that the vintage machine was in.  It also won't fold down with the free arm machine.

Here is what most vintage cabinets will look like with the machine removed:

Unless you plan on figuring out and executing something to hold you machine in the hole, I suggest that you look for a free-arm cabinet and contact a dealer for guidance as far as adapters, parts and fitment.

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7  Re: Good sewing machine for beginners wishing to do a LOT! in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: September 14, 2009 02:48:47 AM
This fly-by-night sale /scam is as old as the hills.  Here are some samples of what the ads look like:

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8  Re: Dating an old Capr? in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: September 01, 2009 09:32:18 AM
You aren't likely to get an exact date.  It bears a striking resemblance to the Singer 257 from the early to mid 1970's.   If it is based on this model, then expect to find several plastic gears.

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9  Re: I think trhis is a 60's Kenmore machine, One of the generics mfg in Japan in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: August 22, 2009 08:29:28 PM

The reason we thought it was a Kenmore is because on the front lip it is stamped in yellow paint "Kenmore #SW 3_2...not sure what the middle number is maybe another 2.  Beside that the ingraved # is JZ 51426  Under the machine molded into the metal is a large GNS.  Other than that there is a decal that says City of Los Angeles Building and Safety Department. Nothing else that might hint at her place of manufacture.

There are two screws that were obviously meant to hold a brand plate of some kind on the front to the left of the dials.  Hub. said they had never been used...screws are in place, but no sign that they had ever held anything in place.

The art deco type cabinet it came in has a stamp that says Sears Kenmore Model #5662025.

I understand why you thought it could be a Kenmore, but it is not. If it were a Kenmore of that type, the metal plate that I speak of, would be right under the lip of the bed on the side by where the operator would sit. 

This type of machine (the one in your photo) was sold under MANY different badges/brands/labels. If you really want to attempt to determine the factory from which it may have been made, the "JA" or "JC" number I mentioned in my earlier post would be your best bet.
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10  Re: machine not moving the fabric in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: June 02, 2009 03:29:23 PM
Based on the information given so far, I would remove the bobbin and bobbin case, and cleaned out around the hook.  Then, when you put it back together (carefully following the instructions in your manual), test it again.

Since this model gets knocked out of time rather easily,  If it still isn't right, you might want to consider visually inspect the timing.

If adjustment is required, you probably want to take it in to your local shop. For most people, this isn't a DIY repair.

Remote Sewing machine diagnostics is always a crap shoot, so this is just my stab at it without seeing it and only having limited information to go by.
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