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11  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Re: Mug and French Press Jacket on: July 16, 2007 08:10:00 PM
Actually it looks exactly like a Bodum I saw at a discount store!  Weird coincidence.  Do you like it?
It works fine.  The inside of the metal band has a bit of rust on it now, but that doesn't affect the Pyrex and I try to get it dry as quickly as possible after washing.
12  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Re: Mug and French Press Jacket on: July 16, 2007 08:01:05 PM
This is an unrelated question, but what kind of french press do you have?  I'm shopping for one and could use some help  Smiley
I think it's a Bodum - I bought it at a shop that specializes in discounted merchandise, like stuff that's been discontinued by the manufacturer, so I don't know you'd be able to find this particular model anywhere. 
13  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Mug and French Press Jacket on: July 16, 2007 07:51:27 PM

Mug & French Press Jacket

Size:  to fit a mug or French press with 3.5" diameter base; pattern can be adjusted to fit different sizes.
Yarn: 1 skein Elann Peruvian Highland Wool (worsted weight 100% Peruvian wool, 109 yds/50g).  You may need more than one skein, depending on how high you want the sides to be.
Yarn subs: A smooth worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition and a little bounce; suggested subs include Cascade 220, Cascade Sierra, Plymouth Encore worsted, Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted, Southwest Trading Co. Karaoke.
Needles: US 6 (or size to get gauge), 1 set dpns or two circs [dpns or 2 circs for base, 1 circ for sides (sides are worked flat but with built-in base, the flexibility of a circ is important)]
Gauge: 24 sts/32 rows = 4"/10cm
Notions: buttons (1 for mug, 2 for French press), tapestry needle

Basic concept:
Knit a circle from the center out large enough for base (80 sts).  Work sides for 1 or up to base of handle.  BO 2 or enough for width of handle.  Work in desired pattern (e.g. smocked cables) for about 3 or desired height.  BO all sts.  Make a loop closure and sew to one open side, sew button to opposite side (two for the French press)
Variations: replace smocked pattern with plain ribbing, replace smocked pattern with stranded colorwork and bands of ribbing or moss st at top and bottom

(from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns)
Multiple of 8 sts + 2
Rows 1 and 3 (wrong side): k2, *p2, k2*
Row 2: p2, *k2, p2*
Row 4: p2, *insert right-hand needle from front between 6th and 7th sts on left-hand needle and draw through a loop; sl this loop onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the 1st st on left hand needle; k1, p2, k2, p2*
Rows 5 and 7: Repeat rows 1 and 3
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 8: p2, k2, p2, *draw loop from between 6th and 7th sts as before and knit it together with 1st st, then k1, p2, k2, p2*, end k2, p2
Repeat rows 1 - 8

kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
inc 1 = increase one = for this pattern, I prefer k1 into row below
With dpns or 2 circs, CO 8 sts.
Round 1: *kfb* (16 sts)
Round 2: *k2, inc 1* (24 sts)
Round 3: *inc 1, k3* (32 sts)
Round 4: *k4, inc 1* (40 sts)
Round 5: *inc 1, k5* (48 sts)
Round 6: *k6, inc 1* (56 sts)
Round 7: *inc 1, k7* (64 sts)
Round 8: *k8, inc 1* (72 sts)
Round 9: *inc 1, k9* (80 sts)
Round 10: p all sts (80 sts)

Round 1 - 7: *k2, p2* (80 sts)
In the next round, switch from dpns or 2 circs to 1 circ
Round 8:  BO 6 sts, sl1, p1, begin smocking pattern, end p2
Next 24 or so rows : work smocking pattern.  On RS rows, replace first two sts of smocking pattern with sl1(purlwise), p1, and end the row with p2.  On WS rows, replace first two sts of smocking pattern with  sl1(knitwise), k1, and end the row with k2.
Note: work last smocked row when sides are 1" shorter than desired, then work last 8 rows in 2x2 rib.  The mug used 2.5 repeats of the smocking pattern; the French press will probably use about 4.5 repeats.
BO all sts in pattern

LOOP: (for French press, make 2)
With dpns, CO 3 sts
Rows 1 - 28: work i-cord

Exact placement and position of loop and button will vary depending on the design of the mug/French press.

Slip jacket onto mug or French press.  Pin ends of loop to one of the open sides and determine placement for button on opposite open side (French press will likely need two loops and buttons).   Slip jacket off and sew loop and button into place.  Weave in all ends.  To block, wash gently and then slip onto mug or French press to dry, turning mug or french press upside down.  If you are using a French press with metal components, you may wish to wrap it in a plastic bag or plastic wrap first to keep the metal dry.

Pattern is for personal use only, please!  First published on my personal blog under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License.

CORRECTIONS made August 10, 2007, to instructions for sides beginning "Next 24 or so rows." 

CORRECTIONS made September 30, 2007 to instructions for base beginning Round 2 on.
14  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Re: Maki Sushi TP Cozy (knit version tutorial) on: June 18, 2007 02:20:51 PM
This is a crochet version, but I just had to share!!!  Thanks for the idea!
Trifarina, that looks great!  I love the stitching on the top!
15  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Crochet Coffee Cup Cozy (16 oz) with tute on: June 18, 2007 02:17:19 PM

More of a recipe than a pattern:
For a 16 oz. takeout cup:
With worsted weight yarn and a G hook, chain 30.  Join into a ring and hdc into each chain.  Increase 2 sts every other round (e.g. inc 1, hdc 12, inc 1, hdc rem), checking the fit every once in a while, working a plain round to tighten it up if necessary. I like a cozy about 6 rounds high.  Stretchy yarns like wool need fewer increase rounds - increasing 2 sts every third round might do the trick.  If you want it to fit lower, start with a shorter foundation chain. 

On the left: Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed cotton in expresso, lemonade, honeydew, and sky.  On the right, unidentified scrap wool in pink, Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton in poppy orange. 

I gave one as a small thank-you gift to a barista who makes me awesome dirty chai lattes (chai latte with a shot of espresso).  Barista was delighted, showed it around, people made many positive comments on it.  I need to remember not to downplay my skills - sure, it's something I just whipped up with scrap yarn and an empty takeout cup...but I don't have to say that.  I can just smile and say thank you.
16  MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS / Craftalongs / Re: Organ-along! on: May 28, 2007 11:31:22 PM

Knitty's Womb

17  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / handspun = hat with heart (top-down beanie recipe included) on: February 11, 2007 12:06:01 AM
Just in time for Valentine's!

The hat was knit on size 13 dpns with a handspun thick/thin yarn and the heart patch was crocheted with a size K hook and handspun yarn (all yarn from Terra Bella Spun). 

For the heart, I checked out some crochet patterns from the Crochet Pattern Central Free Heart Crochet Pattern Links and worked up one that was either a coaster or a potholder; I'm not sure which - I modified the pattern a bit too.

Top-down ribbed beanie recipe:
The idea here is to knit a square by using double increases and staggering the placement every other round.  When the square is big enough, you just knit around and wind up with a circular hat!
Use any yarn you like with appropriate sized needles.  I prefer using a set of 5 dpns, although you could modify this pattern with stitch markers if you prefer one circ or two circs (in round 1, *k2, pm* should do it).
With dpns, CO 8 sts (2 sts on each dpn)
round 1) knit into the back of each st
round 2) work 1 double increase at the beginning of each dpn (I used m1, k1, m1), k to end of needle, repeat on each dpn.
round 3) *k1, p1*
round 4) *k1, p1* to last st on needle and work 1 double increase.  Repeat on each dpn.
round 5) *k1, p1*
Repeat rounds 2 - 5 until the top will fit the size you want.
A rough way to figure this out is to measure across the center (side to side, not diagonally) and multiply that by 4 to get the perimeter (which will become the circumference of the finished beanie).  For a ribbed beanie, if you want a snug fit, go for something about an inch less than the circumference of the head.  If you want a more exact fit, slip all stitches to a long piece of scrap yarn, placing markers to separate the stitches from each needle, and try it on.  To be really sure, wash and dry it before trying it on, just in case the yarn will shrink or expand a lot.

Once it is big enough to fit around, work *k1, p1* around until it's the length you want, and bind off.  I try to bind off a little loosely; you could use a bind-off specifically for ribbings, like tubular bind-off.

*edited to correct an error in taking the measurement*
18  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Re: Basic Beanie for Blythe and Pullip dolls on: January 16, 2007 12:43:03 AM
Thanks!  I really ought to get some better photos taken, and get a couple more versions of the beanie up - this is really easy to dress up with buttons, flowers, pins, etc. for different looks.
19  KNITTING / Projects from the Stitch 'N B**ch Books by Debbie Stoller / Re: neckwarmer fast and easy on: December 21, 2006 07:06:31 PM
Ok time to cry,I dont have that book Sad Cry Cry Cry Cry Cry Cry Cry
Have you checked your local public library?  Many of them have all three of the SNB books!
20  KNITTING / Projects from the Stitch 'N B**ch Books by Debbie Stoller / Re: neckwarmer fast and easy on: December 20, 2006 10:10:55 PM
is this in SNB nation?
Yep.  The original colors are either white or black for the band with red flowers and green leaves.  I think redgreen's color choices look great! 

There's a post on my blog with a photo of the originals, the materials list, and links to photos and posts of Head Huggers made by other crafters.
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