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1  OCCASIONS AND HOLIDAYS / Winter Holidays / Pantone Swatch Book Recon-ed into ornaments and tree topper on: December 15, 2010 11:20:45 PM
So, I have a cheap plastic Christmas Tree. I got it on sale last year and when I put it up this year I suddenly remembered everything I hate about the tree. Full and nice up top, but sparse and bare looking on the bottom. And way too bright! Might as well have a super nova sitting next to the fireplace! Worst of all, I didn't own a tree topper and I'd rather poke myself in the eye than go shopping for one.

This year, I was determined to not have it look crappy. The dilemma is that cute ornaments cost money and I'm stingy. Also, ornaments by themselves don't solve the brightness problem. I needed some lanterny things to dampen the super nova.

I had a Pantone swatch book sitting around and a tin of brass tacks. A few hours of watching trashy tv later, I had a decorated tree. Including a tree topper that I actually like!

This is the whole shebang all lit up.

The topper. I spray painted the outside bronze, otherwise it would have been white. It looks better in person, the lights inside it shine better.

One of the lanterns I made to cover the lights. These were super easy to make and I think they came out very nice. Also, they were easy to put on the tree. No annoying wire hooks required.

This is one of the regular ornaments I made from the swatches.

2  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: General / Re: Knock off Rosendahl Wine Rack on: February 06, 2008 11:49:15 AM
I absolutely love this project!!!!  I think you should leave it white PVC piping, it makes it look like you pulled a pipe out of the wall and just drilled into it!!  I am so making one.

I have considered adding more pipes and whatnot to make it look like an unfinished wall. I think using copper piping would look cool too, but if I remember correctly, it is either more expensive or we couldn't find any that was 2 inch wide. Although, I'm thinking that you could use a skinnier pipe.

And a tip that you can't tell from the picture, we used two different size drill bits so the bottle necks would fit more snuggly. So, the farthest hole is a 1/4" or so smaller than the closer one.
3  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: General / Knock off Rosendahl Wine Rack on: February 03, 2008 01:20:34 PM

So, my brother and I made this wine rack after I showed him ReadyMade's version. Which is available with instructions here: http://readymademag.com/printarchive/index.pl?id=964 and is based off this one: http://www.drinkstuff.com/products/product.asp?ID=2147&title=Rosendahl+Winetube+Wine+Rack

We made this one out of PVC using a drill press. I'm planing on painting it, but am waiting for it to get warmer so that I can use spray paint.
4  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: What you need to know to screen print (General Info. and Tutorial) on: February 03, 2008 10:34:52 AM
And here is the last bit that I wrote for this topic. I wrote this on April 21, 2005. It's taken me almost three years to get around to posting it. How embarrassing!

Last up is random little tidbits and advice that I have.

1.  Here is how to get your image the perfect distance from the collar of your shirt.  Lay your hand flat on the shirt with your index finger at the bottom of the collar.  Now look at where you pinky is.  That is where the top of your image should be once you print.  You can mark it off with a piece of masking tape or something then eyeball it when you print.

2.  Print a couple of times on a piece of paper before you do the really thing.  This way you can tell it is going to look fabu.  If there are any spots where there is a hole in your stencil and ink is coming through, just take some masking tape and cover it up (on the bottom side of your screen).

3.  If you are using enamel inks, you need to work speedy fast.  If you dawdle, your ink will dry in your screen.  Not can. Will.  Look at what you are printing, and if the edges and little lines arent printing, then your ink is drying in.  To combat this, keep your screen flooded while you arent printing.  If it is already dried in, do a flood stroke and then take your squeegee and rub it on those areas a little bit to knock that dried ink out.  Now, if that doesnt work, you are going to have to pull out the big guns and put some Press Wash(or whatever you are using in place of it) on a rag and rub it on the bottom side of your screen where you have drying in.

4.  Plastisol ink is not water soluble.  This means that if you get some on your hands(cheek, floor, etc.), it wont just dry on there.  You need to wipe it off with a rag.  This applies to your squeegee also.  Dont try to wash it off, it wont work.  Believe me, a rag is the way to go. Also, dont leave it to dry, because it wont, it has to heat up to 320 degrees before that happens.

5.  Process color is CMYK color, with these colors you can mix and make lots of different colors. For example, in Photoshop, when you are picking a new color, there are all these letters with number values next to them.  Most of you have probably seen colors have something like R-52 G-34 B-18.  Look and see if you can put in values for the CMYK.  Now if you make a color that you like, record the values for each of those colors and then you can use those numbers to reproduce the color when you print.  For example, you make a color that has the values of C-60 M-10 Y-30 K-0.  When you decide to make this color, use 6 parts Cyan, 1 part Magenta, 3 parts Yellow, and no Black. (K stands for black in CMYK)

Ive checked out prices for kits and things to see how much this is all going to run you.  Here are my findings, these prices and everything were found at dickblick.com:
Speedball Fabric Screen Printing Tool Kit:
-10" 14" frame
-fabric squeegee
-screen filler, 4 oz
-drawing fluid, 4 oz
-Diazo photo emulsion, 4 oz
- g sensitizer
-paint brush
-screen printing instruction book

Cost:  $32.99
I dont know what the drawing fluid is.  Im guessing that it is just block out or can be used that way.  The sensitizer is part of the Diazo, so I think that with that they are just trying to make it sound like you are getting more.  If you get this, you are still going to have to buy some inks.  But over all, this look fairly decent.

Speedball Ultimate Screen Printing Kit:
-8" 10" frame
-10" 14" frame
-graphic squeegee
-fabric squeegee
-Screen Filler, 4 oz
-Drawing Fluid, 4 oz
-Diazo Emulsion, 4 oz
-sensitizer, g
-accessory kit
-Acrylic Screen Printing Inks 4 oz each of Process Cyan, Process Magenta, Process Yellow and Black
-Fabric Screen Printing Inks 4 oz each of Red, and 4 oz Black[/i]
   Cost: $96.00
I dont like everything in this package. It looks like the type of thing where you are going to end up getting things that you are never going to use.

Naz Dar Inks (Im going on a tour of this company on Friday. Hoorah for field trips!)
These are for graphics printing, like paper, metal, cardboard, flat things.  There are lots of colors and different types. They look to be running about $30.00 a quart, but Im thinking that they might be cheaper if you go through a different company. Also, this is a super professional company. If you are wanting to print posters and what not at home, then you can use regular old house paint.

Speedball Textile
These are for textile printing, they look fairly easy to use.  A quart of one of these will set you back about $17.00.  But there is also a starter kit that has six colors in 4oz. jars for $17.00.  The starter kit seems like a good idea to me. Also, if you look around, you can find 8 oz. jars for around $8.

Union Maxopake Plastisol Ink
These are plastisol, so if you are going to use them you need a way to dry them properly.  They cost about $17 to $21.
5  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: What you need to know to screen print (General Info. and Tutorial) on: February 03, 2008 10:29:36 AM
Holey moley guacamole! I get eaten by classes and life for a couple years, come back, and this topic is a sticky. Im going to be blushing for days.

Here are some horrifically late answers to all your questions:

how to get the veratex ink to stay on the shirts?

I tried to research veratex ink to find out exactly what it was made out of, but I couldnt find anything. So, Im going to guess that it is a photopolymer ink.

Photopolymer inks have to be heated to 320 degrees Fahrenheit  before they cure. Now, in professional screen printing shops they have big dryers that look like pizza ovens. Ive never tried this, but I think you could heat up your oven and place the shirt in there for a minute or two.

Just remember that you need the ink to reach 320, so the oven will probably have to be considerably higher.

where do you get your supplies from...especially the roll on emulsion?

My college is nice enough to supply all the things I need to screen print. Im not sure who they are getting it from.

However, www.ulano.com gives listings of their distributors by region all over the world. Also, they make capillary film emulsion, so the dudes they list are probably going to be able to get some for you.

Does anyone have any info on these capillary sheets? Particularly in the UK?

www.ulano.com has all kinds of information about the capillary sheets they make. If you click on products, you can read all about them and how wonderful they are.

Here is the page with the list of all their UK distributors: http://www.ulano.com/dist/dist_europe.htm

I think that should be enough to get you started.

is there anything arcane/inherintley evil about puff ink?

Yes. In order for it to actually puff up it has to reach a certain temperature and remain there at a certain amount of time. I think this would be difficult to do at home.

Do I need to worry overmuch about fine detail?

No, holding fine detail in textile printing is difficult. You can only hold a dot as small as the holes of the mesh on your screen. The only think you can do is move to a finer screen mesh, but then youll be laying down less ink and not getting the puff you want.

Anything else you'd reccommend? Know the name of a good puff ink for just this purpose?

Nope, but those were some damn fine questions. I had to consult my notes on the puff ink. Also, Im totally jealous that you can do lino-cuts.  Hope your adventures in screen printing go well.
6  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: What you need to know to screen print (General Info. and Tutorial) on: October 04, 2005 08:26:16 PM

I'm trying to picture this printing 1/8" above your paper or fabric and I can't even begin to comprehend how you do it.

i also have never had a gap between my screen and fabric.  but apparently this is the "correct" way to do it, or so i was told at some point.  doesn't make sense to me, and my prints came out find with the screen coming in complete contact with the fabric. 

If you are printing something low resolution, it probably isn't very noticeable.  If you are printing a really sharp line on paper, you'll be able to tell.
Here is how it works:
Imagine a piece of elastic laying on a table. Now, if you pressed your finger down on it and then pushed your finger away from you, that piece of elastic would stretch out, right?  And when you pick your finger up, that elastic will snap back to how it originally was.
The mesh on your screen essentially does this exact same thing, but certainly not to the same extent. The squeegee stretches the material out and then the material goes back to how it was once the squeegee is lifted.
So, imagine that piece of elastic again, but now think about it on top of wet ink.  It'll smear.
There you go.

7  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: What you need to know to screen print (General Info. and Tutorial) on: September 30, 2005 11:09:13 PM
I'm a little curious on your steps III and IV:

I'm trying to picture this printing 1/8" above your paper or fabric and I can't even begin to comprehend how you do it.

Whoa! I disappeared for a couple months there, but now I'm back and it is 1 am, so what better to do than answer your burning questions.

Okay, the whole 1/8" thing. This is just a gap between what you are printing on and your frame/mesh.  It keeps the image from being smeary.

1.)does the ink "fall" down onto the surface? how does the ink get to the shirt?

The ink is pushed into the openings in the mesh by the squeegee. Then the tackiness of the ink causes it to stick to the printed object while the mesh is snapping back into it's original place.

Okay, that was unnecessarily complicated, lets just say that you are kind of pushing it through the screen with the squeegee.

2/3.)So pull, then push the squeegee???
Either way, it really doesn't affect the quality of the image.

Now that I read back through this, I find it too complicated for at home printing. I'm going to do some editing.

8  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: I've Silkscreened in Art ... Is it the same method on fabric? on: April 24, 2005 07:29:46 PM
Yeah, that will work if you have a simple design and don't want to spend money on emulsion.
9  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Need help screen printing on: April 24, 2005 07:28:30 PM
The squeegee length really doesn't effect that.  It sounds like you don't have any off contact, which is very very important to keep your image from smearing.  Your screen shouldn't be laying flat on top of the shirt, it should be hovering about an eighth of an inch above the shirt.  So, you can just tape a piece wood that is about that thick onto the table that you printing on.

Also, make sure that your ink isn't too tacky because that can cause your screen to stick too.
10  CLOTHING / Clothing Sewalongs / Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along! on: April 23, 2005 09:48:57 PM
I've been watching also.  I've become emotionally invested in this thread and am anxiously awaiting pics of when you guys finish.  I feel motherly pride for you guys when you figure something out and make progress.
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