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SEWING IN GENERAL => Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions => Topic started by: FaeoftheRoots on May 26, 2009 04:53:38 PM



Title: Sewing brocade ribbon to fleece for a hem
Post by: FaeoftheRoots on May 26, 2009 04:53:38 PM
Hi all,
I'm working on a cloak made out of fleece and want to hem it with a much stiffer ribbon, specifically a thick brocade.  Two questions of the sewing gurus...

1.  Do I need to roll the fleece under and hem it or is it strong enough to have the cut edge exposed?

2.  Any advice on sewing the ribbon to the fleece?  My edge is rounded slightly and when I try to pin it, I get this horrible lumpiness.

I should mention that I plan to sew it on a sewing machine, going over the ribbon twice; once along the top and once along the bottom.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!


Title: Re: Sewing brocade ribbon to fleece for a hem
Post by: soorawn on May 26, 2009 11:42:29 PM
1. I imagine they hem would get rather thick rolling it, and since it's fleece it won't ravel, so you can leave it as it is.  Give it a finish with overlock stitch or zigzag for safety and that'll do nicely.

2. If it's rounded enough to give you that problem, nick the seam allowance.  For outer curves you just make little cuts along the curve right till the seam line, without touching it.  For inner curves, you cut tiny triangular bits out of the seam allowance in the same way, thus reducing the bulk.  This way you get something like a straight line while you work, but actually it keeps its shape.


Title: Re: Sewing brocade ribbon to fleece for a hem
Post by: ptarmic wumpus on May 27, 2009 11:16:40 AM
Another thing to try for a clean finish: sew the ribbon to the fleece with a very narrow seam, right side of the ribbon to the wrong side of the fleece. Fold the ribbon to the right side of the fleece (it will be right side up, with the sewn edge enclosed, press, and sew along the top edge of the ribbon to attach it to the fleece. This should be done with the fleece on the bottom and the ribbon on the top when sewing so that the fleece doesn't stretch out under the presser foot. If I were sewing this, I would determine the length of ribbon needed to lie smoothly along the inside of the hem, and increase the foot pressure to gather in the extra fullness of fleece when sewing the ribbon to the fleece in the first seam. You can also edgestitch the ribbon along the sewn edge to  make it lie flat. 

If the hem is moderately curved and the ribbon is wide, this is not a good method.


Title: Re: Sewing brocade ribbon to fleece for a hem
Post by: elijor on May 27, 2009 11:52:28 AM
I second the idea for the "clean finish" technique p.w. suggested. Even though the fleece doesn't fray I think the "weight" of the brocade trim will pair better with the extra "weight" of the folded over edge created in the technique.

For the top edge of the ribbon you might try running a "gathering" stitch along the top edge of the ribbon. Then pull the threads to "gather" the top edge just as much as needed to get the top edge to lay nicely. If the curve of the garment is too much or the ribbon is too wide this might not work - but if that is the case nothing is going to help. "Gathering" just makes "puckers" spread out evenly and look nicer - it won't prevent them.


Title: Re: Sewing brocade ribbon to fleece for a hem
Post by: FaeoftheRoots on May 27, 2009 10:02:22 PM
Thank you all!  I hadn't heard of these techniques before so I really appreciate the assistance!