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CLOTHING => Clothing Sewalongs => Topic started by: tigralon on March 16, 2005 09:19:30 AM



Title: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 16, 2005 09:19:30 AM
May 19 UPDATE:
If you're looking for the link to the pattern, the website has been rearranged.  The pattern is currently at  http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html (http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html).


May 24 Update:  COMPLETED!!!
Take a look below, and be sure to check out pages 19 & 20 of this thread for two more beautiful jackets by IndividualFrog and cathou!

     

     


---------
ORIGINAL POST:
I am hopelessly in love with the Galliano Pirate Jacket that you can theoretically sew from a free-to-download pattern at http://www.showstudio.com/play.html (scroll down just a bit and click on "Design Download - John Galliano."  I say "theoretically," because this jacket has about 60 pattern pieces and no instructions.
Here is the finished jacket - isn't is fantastic?



So...anybody want to join me in a Sew-Along in pursuit of our own Pirate Jackets?  All together now..."shiver me timbers!"


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigerlounge2000 on March 16, 2005 09:26:38 AM
I've been planning to make the McQueen jacket from showstudio this summer, but I think this one defies comprehension, though two people have succeeded (you can see their jackets on the site).  I think you should just print out hte pieces, cut them in heavy muslin make yourself a duct tape dress form and just experiment with pins and basting thread.  I'd love to see how it goes!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 16, 2005 09:49:23 AM
I'm so in!!! I don't think it's going to be that hard to figure out since there is a lot of information on the pattern pieces (even though it's in french... but fear not!!! I am french!!!). But I do have this problem where I have to find a place to print it .... anyone knows of a place in motreal, quebec where I could print such large paper??

Oh and on top of not having any instructions... I was thinking of making it a second sleeve, detachable, for comfort purposes (I like to have two sleeves!!)... i'm so craaaaaazy :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: eli_rockmell on March 16, 2005 05:15:37 PM
I'll be attempting that this summer, i think.  It's terrifying me already.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 16, 2005 09:10:25 PM
I have been staring at this for more than a year, vowing to make it, but I have had no luck at all getting it all printed out.  As soon as I do, I will be putting my all into making it and I'd love to have partners in crime.  I feel like it'll be very figure-out-able once it's printed....

If anyone knows a place in Connecticut that could print this for very cheap, let me know

JdB


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 17, 2005 06:15:01 AM
I'm so happy to hear that others are willing to take on this crazy project too!

Cathou, I'm glad you can translate the French :) because I tried but couldn't get anywhere with such specific tailoring terms.   I think that's a great idea to do a second, detachable sleeve - I had been concerned about the usefulness of a one-armed jacket, but I hadn't thought of just making a second sleeve.  Hopefully we could simply reverse all the pieces for the left sleeve, but I guess we'll have to see the pieces printed at full-size.

And that brings up the issue of even printing out the darn pattern - I'm in Philadelphia, and I also can't figure out where I could print such a large sheet (without it costing about a hundred dollars).  I tried to print it on regular 8.5x11 paper, in order to tape all the sheets together (as the directions state would be possible), but only 3 pages come out...very odd.  I wonder if there's a website where you can send large files, and they'll print it and send it to you for lower prices than copy stores.  I'll update if I figure out a solution.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 17, 2005 11:29:31 PM
On my pdf they have translations of the french notations.

I'm gonna look around and ask at all the copy shops I can find if they can print this thing out cheapish.  OR maybe I'll see if I can convince a friend to pay for the printing, and then they can have the jacket when I'm done (I'm a boy, so I won't get to wear it  :'( )  I've been waiting too long.  And having partners-in-crime makes it seem so much more doable.  We can do it!!

As for me, I think it's kind of boring to do it all one color like those girls on the site, and I feel like another sleeve would throw off the balance...my plan is to make as exact a copy as I can.  The Union Jack!  Yeah.

This is going to be lots of fun, guys!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on March 18, 2005 01:06:24 AM
i'm interested, but I probably can't start until the summer. i have lots of costume/vintage pattern sewing experience so i think it will be okay.  i was always the one at work coming up with how to put pieces together from old patterns we scrounged somewhere... i'm not sure about the sleeve yet, maybe making one that ties on would be cool for me and more wearable in my climate.  i downloaded the pattern, but i haven't really looked at it all closely yet...  fabric choices will be fun 8)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 18, 2005 09:54:12 AM
On my pdf they have translations of the french notations.

I'm gonna look around and ask at all the copy shops I can find if they can print this thing out cheapish.  OR maybe I'll see if I can convince a friend to pay for the printing, and then they can have the jacket when I'm done (I'm a boy, so I won't get to wear it  :'( )  I've been waiting too long.  And having partners-in-crime makes it seem so much more doable.  We can do it!!

As for me, I think it's kind of boring to do it all one color like those girls on the site, and I feel like another sleeve would throw off the balance...my plan is to make as exact a copy as I can.  The Union Jack!  Yeah.

This is going to be lots of fun, guys!

Yeah, I think that most of the french on the pdf is translated, but I've noticed several penciled comments without white translations.  I think that we can muddle through those, though.  :)   Although, what does "B.F" mean?  It's on one or more edges of almost every piece...

I definitely agree on the Union Jack colour theme - it really highlights all the different pieces and seams.  The trick will be to find the same fabric in the right shades of red, white, AND blue (or barring that, at least fabrics of similar weights and textures).  (And I actually think that this jacket could look great on a guy!  But you'd have to alter the pattern so much, it would probably be more trouble than it's worth.)

I'm going to try to print it this weekend, and then next week hopefully cut it out of cheap fabric to figure out what in the heck attaches where.  But first I really need to finish this purse/hat/shoes combo that I'm deep in the middle of creating...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 18, 2005 01:41:17 PM
Update on printing!!!  I managed to print the entire pattern on regular (8.5x11, for those in the States) paper.  There are two methods:
1) The quick & dirty way is to just use the Graphics Select Tool in Acrobat to select 8x10.5 rectangles on the page, and then click "print selection" over and over.
2) However, I was willing to do a little work and then have all the pieces able to be reprinted easily as I need more, so I took the longer route and copied my selections from Acrobat into Photoshop, then I could save each file (most files are either a few small pattern pieces, or a couple of large ones spread across two files).
Hope that helps!  The pieces then have to be taped together, but IMO that's better than paying exorbitant sums to print onto one giant paper.

And now I'll toss some questions out to you other Pirate-ers:
- Do these pieces have seam allowance?  Most seem to have a seam allowance drawn on, but of only 1/4 inch - that seems awfully small.  A few pieces (top of page 3) have no marked seam allowance line.  At least one says in white translation "seam allowance 1 cm" - does that mean to add on an additional 1 cm, or to cut as shown and then sew at 1 cm?  Any insight on whether to add seam allowance before cutting?
- I'm going to hypothesize that all the little notches around the edges are the equivalent of the "pyramids" that stick out of the cutting edges of mass-produced pattern pieces.  Anyone agree/disagree?

This weekend, I'm off to buy more muslin (want to make sure I have plenty) and also I'm planning to make a duct-tape dressmaker.  I already know that I can't tackle this without something to fit it on!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 18, 2005 02:11:16 PM
Alright!  That's great.  Now I just have to get a new ink cartridge for my printer.  Are you 100% sure that things are printing out at the correct size?

I've never used a commercial pattern.  But the notches are meant to communicate things to us: the size of the seam allowance, which pieces go with which, when to ease things, etc.  According to my patternmaking teacher, notches are the international language of sewing...  (I think you're right and on commercial patterns the "notches" stick out instead of being clipped in.)  So my feeling is that the seam allowance is on there already; it might be small because of the metric system, or the standards of the house of Galliano, or who knows what.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on March 18, 2005 05:19:33 PM
i agree with the notching theories so far too, often sewers just clip in instead of taking the time to cut around a triangle... they also indicate where pieces should match up, this could be key in this project. it would also seem to indicate an allowance for seams is included on that part because you wouldn't want to be cutting past your sewing line.  I often sew with 1/4in seams and 1cm is closer to 3/8 in so still pretty small but possible depending on your fabric choice.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 18, 2005 08:37:15 PM
Oh yeah, and how many pages is it total?  I might need to buy paper as well


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: notawall on March 18, 2005 10:19:08 PM
I've been wanting to make this for AGES.
As well as the other downloadable projects too (the yamamoto top is GORGEOUS, and OH SO SIMPLE). But just haven't got around to it.
I, like IndividualFrog, am also a guy, so I'm not sure I could pull this off, but I still want to make it! If only just to say I did!
I'll join in!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 19, 2005 08:03:49 AM
Oh yeah, and how many pages is it total?  I might need to buy paper as well

If I base myself on the kimono top.... there was 25 pages by big sheet .... so that would make 75 pages.

And all of you make sur you are printing at full size and that your printer isnt resizing!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 19, 2005 12:21:47 PM
Printing, Update Part Two:

Well, I discovered that pieces actually printed at about 90% when I copied them into saved Photoshop files.  Glad I noticed before cutting!  (Although I don't even have my mock-up fabric yet.)  Anyway, I am nearly certain that using the Graphics Select Tool in Acrobat to select 8x10.5 rectangles will result in printing full-size pattern pieces.  This can be checked by measuring the seam allowances on the printout - which I think we've deduced should be 1 cm where marked.  I tested one page printing this way and got 1 cm seam allowances, so that's full size.  I'll print the rest asap.
As for paper, it took me 40 sheets last time at 90%, so I second Cathou's guess and say between 50 & 75 sheets for full-size.  It doesn't really use that much ink, because it's just a few lines on each sheet, not a full page of text.

Are there any other marks that we should pay attention to while cutting?  Certainly the grainline arrows...I'm dredging my memory and thinking that the grainline goes along the bolt, not across, yes?  Are there other cutting notations that anyone else has noticed?

Oh, and if anyone happens to live in Philadelphia and wants to work on this project in person, let me know.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 19, 2005 02:54:20 PM
grainline is parallel to the selvage (the "finished" sides of the fabric).  Be careful you are cutting things out on the correct side of the fabric!  With such a complicated bunch of pieces you would not want any of them to be backward.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: retroxpink on March 20, 2005 11:52:17 AM
I'm going to be moving to the Philadelphia area near the beginning of June...but I may be away for the summer, so I'll let you know about getting together to sew.  I'm probably going to print the pattern out soon...I can print at the campus library for free with a laser printer- quick and color fast.  cause I just know that I'll spill water on it at some point...

(I'm the one from livejournal/~sew_hip, by the way)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 21, 2005 10:28:41 AM
I found an easier way to print it on a home printer. You will need adobe's Illustrator 10 (haven't tried it with other versions):
-open your pdf in Illustrator (right-click on the pattern icon, open with>Illustrator)
-go in file>document setup
-In view check the tile imageable area option
-click ok (you should see a map of all the pages numbered on the pattern)
-print!!
-repeat for all 3 pages

I have tried it and it worked for me... the size was 100% all the pages matches


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 22, 2005 03:48:56 AM
I have printed out the first page.  Unfortunately, since I have an old and sucky computer, it took me several hours.  But it's fascinating.  I find it really bizarre that they included instructions for the sleeve only, since it seems to me to be the easiest part of this jacket to understand.  It's just a regular ol' sleeve cut into pieces so that you can make the colors right.  If you match notch to notch it's totally simple.

I've got to go to bed now, but I'll be printing out the rest tomorrow.  This project is very exciting to me as a designer because it's a real glimpse into the technique of perhaps my favorite designer of all.  See you all soon.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Milly on March 22, 2005 03:56:46 AM
thiss jacket is absaloutly amasing!
i would love to make it but alas am a lame ameteur with almost no experiance and my mum wont help me :(
might ask a friend in graphics at school to print me some of it to show me the emormity of it, and if my textiles teacher (who hasnt taught me for 3 years...) will help me......
some one has dont it though, in plain black.... so it is doable!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 22, 2005 06:32:27 AM
Cathou, I'm so glad you figured out that printing trick.  It sounds much easier than what I tried.  ;)  I'll give that a shot today.

I was thinking about what size the finished jacket would be, and whether I would have to grade the pattern to fit me (I stink at grading :)), and it occurred to me that if a model is wearing it in the photo, then it must be model-sized.  And aren't all models the same size, to make it easy for designers?  (I know fit-models have to be exact sizes, but I think even runway models have to all be similar to each other.)  I think I remember reading that they can't be larger than a size 2, but perhaps someone else knows with more authority...anyway, that might give us a rough idea of the size of the jacket if made from the pattern exactly as drawn.

And IndividualFrog, I couldn't agree with you more.  If they were going to provide only one sheet of directions, why do it for the (relatively) easiest part??  I guess this jacket really is supposed to be the fabric version of a jigsaw puzzle.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 22, 2005 12:47:11 PM
I found an easier way to print it on a home printer. You will need adobe's Illustrator 10 (haven't tried it with other versions):
A quick note for anyone using Illustrator CS.  Go straight to "Print," then "Setup," then look at "Tiling" under Options and choose "Tile Imageable Areas."  Thanks to Cathou, who figured out this easy solution.  :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: missgeekcore on March 22, 2005 01:31:07 PM
I am also trying to work on this. I got sick of trying to print the pattern out after 2 tries, so I took it down to kinkos and had them do it (cost me $18 in case anyone is wondering). I am going to attempt my muslin version of this over the next week, to figure out if it will come remotely close to fitting me. I agree, it would be nice if there was a size indicator. I kind of like the jigsaw puzzle thing though.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 22, 2005 11:16:03 PM
I just crashed my computer printing, so I'm taking a break for a minute.  Foolishly, I have been playing Cat Power while printing/cutting out pieces, so the joy of last night has been replaced by misery.

I'm guessing that "size" in relation to this pattern would be pretty meaningless.  My guess is we'll have to just find out what size it is when it's made :/  I sort of wish I was still on speaking terms with my ex-girlfriend because she is superskinny and would probably be a good model for this thing.  But who knows, really?

I went to look on style.com for what it looked like on the runway, and was semi-surprised to find it in an uglier, green/floral/orange colorway:
http://www.style.com/style/view/19/34/100033419.jpg
but this explains, perhaps, the "vert" and "fleur" notations on some of the pieces.  Has anyone figured out the colors for each piece yet?  Sometimes they have two or even three colors marked on them!  Usually between sort of scribbly lines...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: GoTo on March 23, 2005 01:28:26 AM
I am not nearly so brave as to try this project--I wish you all great success, but I did have 2 thoughts that might help you. 

First, would it help to print it out on legal sized paper?  (8.5" x 14")  I've blown up patterns for large projects where using legal sized paper changed the pages from 12 down to a more manageable 8.  Also, once they are all taped together, you might be able to get a cheap-ish copy at an office supply store with a copy shop.  The Office Max in my area (NY) has a self-serve photocopy machine for blueprint-sized copies that are less than $5.00 a copy.  (I don't know if they offer service with printing from a file at such a low rate.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Milly on March 23, 2005 05:53:14 AM
i cant download the pattern :'(


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 23, 2005 07:44:33 AM
but this explains, perhaps, the "vert" and "fleur" notations on some of the pieces.  Has anyone figured out the colors for each piece yet?  Sometimes they have two or even three colors marked on them!  Usually between sort of scribbly lines...

Wow...that's quite a colour combo!  Good to know that we can ignore the "vert" and "fleur" comments.  As for bizarre colour notations, for example check out the piece shaped like a shoulder-pad near the top of the first page.  On the left it says "rouge," and on the right it says "blanc."  Yet we're supposed to cut it out of one piece of fabric??  This confusion might also explain why those people on the website chose to sew their jackets in solid colours.  :D
EDIT: While taping together my printed pieces, I think I figured out why some pieces have different colours written between penciled lines.  Those pieces are lining pieces (example: for the sleeves) and the penciled notations indicate the colour that goes over top of that lining piece.  That also answers my question below about whether we'll need lining material.  And I think that the lining material shows where the top flips down and the sleeve slits open (like the flowered material in the picture that IndividualFrog found), so we should buy nice lining material, not just a neutral cotton.

Milly, if you can't download the pattern: have you tried a different web browser?  What exactly happens when you try to download it?

Let's compile a list of everything that we'll need.   I'll start out with things I've noticed on the pattern, but I'm sure those of you with more experience can clarify/add items, and we can fill in details (like zipper length) as we figure them out:
- fabric for the main garment in red, white, and blue (# of yards - any guesses?)
- (lining fabric - is there a lining? yardage?)
- thread in red, white, and blue
- interfacing - anyone have a opinion on weight of interfacing?  fusible/non-fusible?
- grosgrain - I've seen this a lot on the pattern - does this mean grosgrain ribbon?  how wide?  what colour(s)?  any guesses on amount needed?  (and does anyone know what "a cheval" means in reference to the grosgrain, as it's written near it several times.  The literal translation - "of the horse" - isn't providing any insight. ;))
- snap fasteners (size is maybe 1 cm? # needed?)
- zipper (length?)
- "button stand" - anyone know what this means?
- eyelets (# needed?)
- elastic for loops (width? length needed?)
- "grosgrain loop with ring" - so we'll need some sort of rings
- metal studs (# needed?)
- press studs (# needed?)
- "shoelace cord of at least 24 cm" (colour?)
- buckles (size? at least 2 needed, maybe more)

Feel free to update/edit this list!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 23, 2005 03:26:20 PM
"À cheval" most probably means that the grosgrain ribon will be used to do the edging.

I'm almost finished cutting the pattern. I actually like the green/orange combination ... I just don't like the floral, I was looking for an other option then the union jack.

and the button stand thing sounds weird because there is no mention of buttons in french ...  :-\


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 23, 2005 09:07:00 PM
A button stand is just an added piece for a button to go on, also known as a button extension.  I'm pretty sure that "a cheval" just means we bind the edges with the ribbon, like cathou said.  I am probably going to use a very light fusible for the interfacing.  Going from the pictures, the lining should probably be red; I'm probably just going to use the same red fabric I use for the self, unless it's really uncomfortable.  But mine will probably never get worn :( so I don't have to worry about it too much.

I find it amusing how lackadasical they were about translations.  Cathou, "manche droit devant" means "right sleeve front", right?  My French is terrible.

Oh, and you guys can call me John  :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 23, 2005 09:26:49 PM
I find it amusing how lackadasical they were about translations.  Cathou, "manche droit devant" means "right sleeve front", right?  My French is terrible.
yes it does!

I'm trying to piece some of the pieces together with the nothces and it seems to be easier then I first tought it would be... the only thing is that the handwritting on it isn't always easy to read  :-[


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 24, 2005 05:30:45 AM
I'm trying to piece some of the pieces together with the nothces and it seems to be easier then I first tought it would be... the only thing is that the handwritting on it isn't always easy to read  :-[
That's great news!  You're so speedy, I'm really impressed.  :)  I still have to buy test fabric to cut out the mockup.  Are you piecing it together flat on a table, or in three-dimensions on a dummy/body double?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Zombie_Teeth on March 24, 2005 05:40:58 AM
Wow. Wowowow. I have to make this. HAVE to.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Milly on March 24, 2005 05:41:43 AM
i managed to download it and when the printer has more toner (or the school holidays are over hehehe ) then i can print it! hope your all going well all the things are so helpful! and making me realise that there are other people out here who can help!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 24, 2005 07:44:31 AM
I'm off to Maine for a couple days.  I wish I could have printed the whole thing out before I go, but it was not meant to be.  Don't get too far ahead of me while I'm gone!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 24, 2005 04:43:29 PM
Don't get too far ahead of me while I'm gone!
LOL, I'm still trying to decipher the markings on all the pieces.  :D

I have some questions that hopefully someone can answer:
- There are double pattern pieces for all the coloured long sleeve pieces (1A, 1B, etc.); these are identically-shaped pieces without seam allowance.  What are those pieces for?  They're not lining, because there are full-length sleeve lining pieces...so why the doubles?
- Also for the long sleeve, it will be 4 layers thick if cut as directed (top colour pieces labeled 1A/1B/etc, identical pieces sans seam allowance, then the long pattern pieces says to cut one of fabric and cut one of lining.  And that's not including any interfacing.  Doesn't 4 layers of fabric seem awfully thick - why so many layers?
- Some small and/or narrow pieces have the notation "grosgrain" or "elastic," especially on the third page.  Are those pieces supposed to be cut entirely from grosgrain or elastic?  In that case, we'll have to buy really wide ribbon and elastic.  It seems strange to cut a shape out of elastic - won't the sides fray?

Glad to see you, zombie teeth; and missgeekcore, I'd love to hear how it goes with your muslin mock-up!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 24, 2005 08:38:23 PM
Don't get too far ahead of me while I'm gone!
LOL, I'm still trying to decipher the markings on all the pieces.  :D

I have some questions that hopefully someone can answer:
- There are double pattern pieces for all the coloured long sleeve pieces (1A, 1B, etc.); these are identically-shaped pieces without seam allowance.  What are those pieces for?  They're not lining, because there are full-length sleeve lining pieces...so why the doubles?
- Also for the long sleeve, it will be 4 layers thick if cut as directed (top colour pieces labeled 1A/1B/etc, identical pieces sans seam allowance, then the long pattern pieces says to cut one of fabric and cut one of lining.  And that's not including any interfacing.  Doesn't 4 layers of fabric seem awfully thick - why so many layers?
- Some small and/or narrow pieces have the notation "grosgrain" or "elastic," especially on the third page.  Are those pieces supposed to be cut entirely from grosgrain or elastic?  In that case, we'll have to buy really wide ribbon and elastic.  It seems strange to cut a shape out of elastic - won't the sides fray?

Glad to see you, zombie teeth; and missgeekcore, I'd love to hear how it goes with your muslin mock-up!

I was looking at the same thing this afternoon  :D

this is what I figured:
-the doubles are just that ... doubles
-for the long sleeve... I think you used either the pattern for the long sleeve in one colour or the pattern for the sleeve in 3 colors, therefore making it only 2 layers.
-for the grosgrain pattern ... some of them look really large  :o.. so i'm not really sure (I know the elastic can be easilly found that large though)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: missgurle17 on March 24, 2005 11:08:53 PM
I wanna make this so bad, but alas I am not near model size and would just be upset if I spent all that work to make something I could not wear. Then again maybe it will encourage me to lose weight...

I bow down to anyone who can make this, all I have to say is, I love you.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 25, 2005 11:36:22 AM
Alright I have an update on the pattern!!!
The pieces numbered (1 to 10) compose the main body, starting with 1 as the first piece (on the front flap) and going around. And 9 is the band that goes across in the back.
Now I have 3 questions:
-How does the jacket close?
-How do I get coloured elastic?? Do I make a sleeve for it?
-There are 2 pieces marqued right sleeve (short one), does anyone knows how they go?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 25, 2005 02:08:32 PM
The pieces numbered (1 to 10) compose the main body, starting with 1 as the first piece (on the front flap) and going around. And 9 is the band that goes across in the back.
Cathou, you rock for figuring that out!  I have to look at the full-size pieces when I get home, but do you mean that the numbers wrap clockwise around the body?  Ah, wait a minute...it's all making sense!  The jacket does supposedly incorporate corset technigues ("a complicated and symbolic piece of corseting and tailoring"), so I'm guessing that all those long skinny pieces go vertically, like the panels of a corset.  This is sooo cool to suddenly be able to see it in my head.  Thanks!  Can you tell I'm excited?  ;)
Other stuff...
-I think the jacket closes under the right arm, based on how it wraps over in that location. Maybe that's where the snaps or buckles come into play?
-Perhaps those long skinny pieces marked "elastic" are actually the casings/sleeves for the elastic?  BTW, I looked again at the finished jacket and the only elastic I can see is gathering the two edges of the short sleeve, and that's elastic cord with those little "clamps" on the ends to keep it taut.
-As for the two short-sleeve pieces, I was playing with those last night, but I don't think I got anywhere.

-Is the entire jacket lined?  Some pieces are clearly marked "lining for
  • " but some pieces have no correlated lining piece...
-How many yards of muslin did it take to cut out all the pieces?
-Are you definitely going to do the green & orange theme?  On my work monitor the colours look awful, but at home it's strangely interesting...almost green-black and tangerine...could be fun (but the floral really looks off, IMO).


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 26, 2005 06:48:30 AM
-There are 2 pieces marqued right sleeve (short one), does anyone knows how they go?
I've been messing with these 2 pieces.  If you look at the back photo of the jacket, you can see that there's a little gathered puff, just to the left of where the right sleeve attaches.  Almost like an additional useless sleeve piece!  My theory:
"Manche droit devant" is the actual sleeve (gathering with elastic at top and bottom).  It attaches its left edge to piece "manche droite" at a right angle, along the top right edge of manche droite (and I'm pretty sure that the elastic along the top of manche droite goes in after sewing it to manche droit devant, because if you look at the photo, both pieces pucker together).  Then piece 10 fits into that little indentation on manche droite, at a sort of 45 degree angle, gathering along the bottom of manche droite where indicated.
This doesn't solve the upper left-hand corner of manche droite, which is still sticking out where it shouldn't, but I think we're on the right track.

Then is the long left edge of piece 10 sewn directly to the top of 8, with band 9 lying over top?  But the bottom notch on 10 doesn't line up at all with the bottom notch on 8.   ???  (Although, as a general rule on this pattern, I've noticed that the notches don't always line up as well as desired, so I suppose we should use them as guidelines but not commandments.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 26, 2005 07:28:10 AM
-The entire jacket is lined, for the pieces that don't have a piece marked lining, you have to cut to pieces: one of your regular fabric, and one of the lining.
-I couldn't really tell how many yards of muslin since I didn't cut out all the pieces and I cut almost all my pieces from my mock up for the alexander mcQueen Jacket  :D
-I'm probably going to go with a navy green color and I'm still not sure for the contrasting color.

for the 8-9-10 pieces:
-10 is definately sewed onto 9: it is clearly marked onto the 9 piece, and the notches matches.
-so my guess is that 8 is sewned to 9 also on the other side, I'm just not sure where since the notches don't seem to match anywhere  ???

oh and as a guide I printed almost all the pictures I could find, it helpls a lot!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 26, 2005 07:47:31 AM
-10 is definately sewed onto 9: it is clearly marked onto the 9 piece, and the notches matches.
Ahahaha, I'm a dope.   :D  I can't believe I didn't notice that notation.  Time to drink more coffee!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 27, 2005 05:42:36 AM
- Some small and/or narrow pieces have the notation "grosgrain" or "elastic," especially on the third page.  Are those pieces supposed to be cut entirely from grosgrain or elastic?  In that case, we'll have to buy really wide ribbon and elastic.  It seems strange to cut a shape out of elastic - won't the sides fray?
-for the grosgrain pattern ... some of them look really large  :o.. so i'm not really sure (I know the elastic can be easilly found that large though)
I Googled and found the following information:
Grosgrain [groh'-grayn] Ribbed, closely woven fabric that is made in ribbon width as well as fabric widths.
Grosgrain: Fabric or ribbon with heavy horizontal ribs.

Aha!  I never knew that this fabric was called by the same name as the ribbon.  (I always called it "that heavy fabric with the big ribs." :D)  So we can cut out those large "grosgrain" pattern pieces with grosgrain fabric.
Speaking of those grosgrain pattern pieces, why is there a larger square on the end of each narrow piece? ???  And why is no seam allowance marked on the grosgrain pieces - surely the raw edges will need to be tucked under?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 27, 2005 07:32:33 AM
Speaking of those grosgrain pattern pieces, why is there a larger square on the end of each narrow piece? ???  And why is no seam allowance marked on the grosgrain pieces - surely the raw edges will need to be tucked under?

Those square arent part of the pattern (there is a little cisor drawing on each of them), my guess is they where used to hang up the pattern.

I sewed almost all my mock up but now i'm stuck with that small sleeve.... where does it attaches on the front ?? And what do I make of those 2  sleeve pieces ???


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 28, 2005 07:24:27 AM
Speaking of those grosgrain pattern pieces, why is there a larger square on the end of each narrow piece? ???  And why is no seam allowance marked on the grosgrain pieces - surely the raw edges will need to be tucked under?

Those square arent part of the pattern (there is a little cisor drawing on each of them), my guess is they where used to hang up the pattern.

I sewed almost all my mock up but now i'm stuck with that small sleeve.... where does it attaches on the front ?? And what do I make of those 2  sleeve pieces ???
I think I just learned something new...I've never heard of hanging up a pattern.  Why is that done?  And is that why there's a big white dot near one end of almost every piece?  Another mystery solved.  :)

Did I guess correctly about how the two sleeve pieces fit together (see my earlier post)?  I haven't tried sewing them yet in that configuration, but I taped together the paper pieces and they seemed to line up pretty well.  As for attaching the right sleeve to piece 1, it's quite odd...all the snaps on piece 1 seem to be decorative.  I do notice in the photos that one of the small D-shaped pieces pokes up out of the right side of the big "basque dos" piece, with a snap on it, and it seems to attach to the bottom front of the small sleeve, to form a sort of armhole.  (Is that how you assembled it?)  But that still doesn't solve the problem of how to attach the sleeve to piece 1.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: missgeekcore on March 28, 2005 07:42:33 AM
Hanging patterns takes up very little space, and offers less chance of the pattern getting mangled in any way, in my experience.

I can't find the fabric I want for this. Making me lazy and not work on it.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 28, 2005 10:16:35 PM
Yo guys, I'm back and have printed out the whole pattern.  Looking at it, I am extremely annoyed to see that the Union Jack design is nowhere in sight.  It seems that perhaps they had a Union Jack-print fabric, curse their eyes.  So why even give us Union Jack sleeve pattern?  As the King of All the Cosmos might say, how disturbing.

This doesn't mean I'm giving up on the UJ scheme, oh no.  If I have to I'll draft my own pattern pieces to make it work.

I'm still trying to work out the right sleeve and how the jacket closes (I have a few "educated" guesses), and I don't want to lead anyone astray by accident, so I will say nothing. 

Yes, those white dots are actually holes in the pattern through which you can pass ribbon or string for hanging it up; it's just convenient.

Oh and match your notches!!!!!  Don't think of them as "just guidelines" because all the shaping in this jacket is done with the seams, and we have to fit and ease to make the notches match or it won't work right.

I really hoped I wouldn't have to make a muslin (since it's not going to fit me anyway) but I suppose I must.  I hate cutting fabric pieces.  Oh well...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 28, 2005 10:19:04 PM
Oh yeah and two more things: I feel preeeetty certain that I can find ribbon in the correct widths.  Or are there any "grosgrain" pieces that aren't orange and hence I'm not noticing them?

And cathou, have you found any other pictures than the ones at showstudio and style.com?  I really wish I could get a better look under the right arm.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 29, 2005 12:39:59 AM
OK, many pins later, I have a pretty pathetic version up on my dress form.

It looks to me like the jacket closes via the snaps on pieces 1 and 10--and in Angela Koecharoen's version, at least, it sort of looks like the mysterious other end of the right sleeve also snaps to piece 1...?  But there are no snaps indicated on the sleeve pieces, so I guess that's not true...

Anyway, it's 3:30, time for bed.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 29, 2005 07:35:44 AM
Many hours of thinking later, the button stand (remmeber the little square with 2 snaps on it) attaches to the front of the right sleeve and therefore the right sleeve can snap to piece1!!

And there seems to be 2 ways to attach the jacket (and maybe more):
-snapping 1 and 10 together (like on the style.com pictures
- and with one of those flaps snapping it to ether the sleeve or piece 1

Oh and all my notches matches except the ones where 8 and 9 come together (I have the beginning of 8 and the end matching to some notches, but none in beetween, and 9 is longer then 8, I hope its normal).... am I missing something?

Oh yeah and two more things: I feel preeeetty certain that I can find ribbon in the correct widths. Or are there any "grosgrain" pieces that aren't orange and hence I'm not noticing them?

And cathou, have you found any other pictures than the ones at showstudio and style.com? I really wish I could get a better look under the right arm.
All the grosgrain pieces are in orange, and ribbon can be found in the correct width (I found some, just not in the right color!!).
And unfortunatly I havent found any other pictures. I just want to lift their arms in the picture so I can look at that right side  ::)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 29, 2005 07:47:29 AM
First off, I couldn't agree more about the aggravation of the lack of U.J. details on the pattern.  I also cursed a lot when I realized that we'd been tricked into thinking the pattern would produce a UJ jacket like the one in the photo.
Without a larger-res photo, we can't zoom in to see whether those are seams between the colours, or the pattern is printed into the cloth as you hypothesized.  My current theory is that they did indeed have UJ-printed fabric, which they cut up for the main large body pieces.  THEN they also had solid-colour fabric that they pieced together for the sleeve etc.  The girl on showstudio with the white & red jacket has some red pieces in the back, but she probably just picked a few pieces to cut in a contrasting colour.
(missgeekcore, you said that you're looking for fabric - what colour scheme are you planning to do?)

For the grosgrain, I'm now see that it's all ribbon.  My confusion had stemmed from those weird squares with the white holes; I thought that was part of the pattern piece, and therefore had to be cut out like that.  But I'm no longer misled by those markings and am just going to buy wide ribbon also.  (That whole thing about hanging up patterns is such a good idea!)

Many hours of thinking later, the button stand (remmeber the little square with 2 snaps on it) attaches to the front of the right sleeve and therefore the right sleeve can snap to piece1!!
Aaaah, great deduction!  I want to make sure I understand correctly...one of the button stand snaps attaches to the one available snap on the underside of piece 1 (the top snap on piece 1 is decorative and shows on the reverse where piece 1 hangs open).  The other button stand snap attaches to the snap set into the D-shaped piece hanging on the end of the basque dos?  Ingenious!  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 29, 2005 12:44:02 PM
Many hours of thinking later, the button stand (remmeber the little square with 2 snaps on it) attaches to the front of the right sleeve and therefore the right sleeve can snap to piece1!!

cathou, I could kiss you.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Mia Ow on March 30, 2005 06:40:09 AM
Has anyone figured out around what size this is?

Thanks to all for the printing help!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 30, 2005 07:07:32 AM
Many hours of thinking later, the button stand (remmeber the little square with 2 snaps on it) attaches to the front of the right sleeve and therefore the right sleeve can snap to piece1!!

cathou, I could kiss you.

hehe glad I could be some help

Has anyone figured out around what size this is?

well it fits me and i'm usually a size small (don't know what it is in numbers), the only thing is the sleeve is a little bit too tight (I can't bend my arm in it...lol)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on March 30, 2005 12:24:34 PM
the only thing is the sleeve is a little bit too tight (I can't bend my arm in it...lol)
Thank goodness for that zipper!  ;)

For those of you who've pieced it together - I was working on my test version last night and couldn't quite figure out how and when to sew on the flaps (there's one for piece 2, one for piece 7, and then the little "5 bis" crescent).  Do these flaps get sewn into the seams, for example does the flap for piece 2 actually get sewn into the seam between 2 & 3?  It says "appliqued" on the pattern, which confuses me...  Similarly, how about 6 & 7 - is it actually two pieces - the "bande" for 6 and the "bande" for 7?  And are those two bandes sewn together, or each attached separately?  Damn these tiny photos!

(I did figure out how "5 bis" gets inserted, and I would guess that it needs its grosgrain edging before being sewn in, so the grosgrain catches in the seam.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 30, 2005 02:56:15 PM
It looks to me like they both go in the seam.  (Looking at the pattern peices, it sure looks like the 7 flap goes between 7 and 8, not 6 and 7...but the pictures are a different story.)  The confusing thing is that facing for the 7 flap...since the outside edge of the flap gets folded over *outwards*, how does that side of the facing get finished??  Also, is there a translation of "Pris en fourreau avec enforre" or whatever it says?  Babelfish doesn't know "enforre", maybe I'm reading the handwriting wrong, or there is a missing accent mark or something.

I need to get some fabric for this, so I can start working for real.  I was thinking of buying a few actual Union Jacks and cutting them up.  There's a place online that seems to sell 6 three-by-five-foot flags for $36.00, which isn't too bad.  (Though it's probably way more yardage than I'd need.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on March 30, 2005 05:48:41 PM
Also, is there a translation of "Pris en fourreau avec enforre" or whatever it says?  Babelfish doesn't know "enforre", maybe I'm reading the handwriting wrong, or there is a missing accent mark or something.
Actually it says "pris en fourreau avec enforme" (the handwritting is really bad at some places) wich actually means that you have to sew that part with the facing (right side together to form a finished edge).

I actually had to look up fourreau in the dictionnary since it's not a common term for sewing here in quebec, fourreau is a kind of bag here  :o


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: skye691 on March 30, 2005 07:45:54 PM
Man.. you  guys are phenomenal for even trying this. I dearly wish that I could A. make one, and B. fit in one.. but I'm just way too big. *sigh*

When are we gonna see the progress you guys have made? I'm pretty interested in seeing how it turns out.

and anyone who could figure out how to make this a size 18 (us) would be my personal hero.

edit-- how bad would it look if you made the short sleeve a strap?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: junquette on March 30, 2005 08:11:19 PM
I have been reading through all the questions and stuff and I admit the pattern looks nuts.
I was thinking would it be possible to get three old tshirts the same size and style in three different colours.
Take one apart at the one of the side seams and remove one sleeve.
Open the shoulder as well and remove the neck.Do this to all three actually. Then take one colour and cut into the shapes they show.
Take the third colour and cut it out also. Lay the two different colours onto the one that is only open on the one side.
you cna probably hand stitch the layers onto pretty quickly just to see if it's all going to fit together for you. This might sound like a lot of work but it might help explain this pattern to you much easier than going into it blindly trying to follow a pattern that is as complicated as this one.
You won't even have to use all the pieces in this pattern and can even make up your own designs. It will give you an idea of how it fits together onto a tshirt that already fits you.
Does this make sense to you?
YOu just might end up being a great designer of your own! Something to think about.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 31, 2005 01:45:43 AM
I already am a great designer on my own.  I just want a look at ol' John G's techniques, so I can steal them.  Anyway we seem to be doing pretty well as far as figuring it out goes.

skye691, I'd like to put up pix as I go, but I don't actually have a digital camera, I just get my brother-in-law to take pictures when I want to share stuff online.

I woke up this morning and saw the muslin on my dress form and thought, man, that's a beautiful shape.  Even without all the bells and whistles.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 01, 2005 11:36:09 AM
It looks to me like they both go in the seam.  (Looking at the pattern peices, it sure looks like the 7 flap goes between 7 and 8, not 6 and 7...but the pictures are a different story.) 

I need to get some fabric for this, so I can start working for real.  I was thinking of buying a few actual Union Jacks and cutting them up.  There's a place online that seems to sell 6 three-by-five-foot flags for $36.00, which isn't too bad.  (Though it's probably way more yardage than I'd need.)
I have to say that sometimes the photos are a huge help, and sometimes they just confuse me more.  :D

That's a great idea for getting Union Jack fabric!  Once you figure out where to lay down each pattern piece, you'll be sitting pretty.  (I think you'd definitely need several, because the way the design is cut on the front, for example, doesn't seem to allow for seam allowance if you were to try to cut the pieces out smack next to one another on the same flag.  Once you sewed your seams, the lines wouldn't line up any more.)

I've been working on the lining portion of my mock-up.  Are the lining pieces just sewn together in reverse, to make a second "lining jacket," then sewn inside the main body?  It seems that way to me...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: PixieSkull on April 01, 2005 01:58:46 PM
Man, this jacket scared me too much, I didn't even think about it. Good luck with finishing your stuff, guys!

I'd like to try, but I don't think I have the patience for the puzzle. Maybe something not so big.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 02, 2005 11:39:25 AM
I've been working on the lining portion of my mock-up.  Are the lining pieces just sewn together in reverse, to make a second "lining jacket," then sewn inside the main body?  It seems that way to me...

I am not making the lining for my mock up (not patient enough for that) but it seems to be that way (thats how I understood it anyways).

Now for the question (I even made a diagram):

pieces 9 and 10 are going farther then the other pieces (unless I didn't sew it right) but where does that part goes when the tie up the jacket with the little flap piece... it doesn't seem to appear in any of the picture ???

I bought all my fabric for my jacket (so excited!!!). It's going to be a deep green (in twill) with a stripped linning (in a green-beige-blue colourway) with the grosgrain and bias tape a skye blue.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 02, 2005 07:40:55 PM
Yeah, this has been the main puzzle to me all along, how the "basque" works.  On the pictures, you can't even see 8, 9, or 10 from the right side, just the basque.  And if you look at the picture of the back, 8 comes to an end right underneath the buckle on 9, and it looks like the basque touches 9 there!  Just looking at the picture, it looks as if 9 & 10 somehow connect to the basque at a right angle.  All of which is, to say the least, very perplexing.

Tigralon, that's how linings usually go. Although this jacket has some interesting facings, I'm guessing they don't affect things too much.  Personally, I feel like the facing is something which I can figure out when I've got my real fabric.  But I'd really like to understand the basque thing.  I would give my ears if she'd just lift up her damn right arm.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: belleaurora on April 03, 2005 05:28:52 PM
Wow, you people are amazing.  I'd try that, but I think that I should start simpler (like, learn how to sew  ::)).  I'm looking forward to seeing finished products so that if I ever get to this level, I can give it a shot ;)  Good luck~!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 03, 2005 11:01:12 PM
http://www.individualfrog.com/gjacket.jpg

If anyone cares, here's a bigger picture of the runway version.  Firstview no longer has Galliano pix, so I used the Internet Wayback Machine to get this, but much to my dismay, there were no better pictures of the right side.  The way she has it twisted here, a picture of the back probably would have shown what we need, but unfortunately they didn't get one.  Sighhh.

Ellie Aston won Showstudio's "Taking Liberty's" contest by wearing her version of the jacket, but in the "winning picture" she is showing off the *left* side.  There might be more pictures of her, but there are hundreds and hundreds of photos to search through and I just don't have the endurance, especially since there's probably no clear picture of the right side anyway.  I'm out of ideas, both on finding a picture to help and on how this thing goes together.

This is making me very depressed.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 04, 2005 09:48:40 AM
I am not making the lining for my mock up (not patient enough for that) but it seems to be that way (thats how I understood it anyways).

I bought all my fabric for my jacket (so excited!!!). It's going to be a deep green (in twill) with a stripped linning (in a green-beige-blue colourway) with the grosgrain and bias tape a skye blue.
Those colours sound really lovely together - I especially like the idea of the striped lining.  I'm not doing a full lining on the test run, just trying to figure out the parts that I don't understand (and also trying to decide where I want to line with more expensive, fancier material (like the hanging front panel) and where I want to line with more basic, cheaper material (where it will never show)).

John, thanks for finding another picture!  I tried to Google but hadn't had any luck.  I checked out the Taking Liberty's contest and see what you mean - there's waaay too many pictures.  I tried scrolling through them but I only got 3 days in before I lost patience.

 
And if you look at the picture of the back, 8 comes to an end right underneath the buckle on 9, and it looks like the basque touches 9 there! Just looking at the picture, it looks as if 9 & 10 somehow connect to the basque at a right angle. All of which is, to say the least, very perplexing.
That's what I see also - a right angle where 10 curves under her arm and then connects to the basque.  ???
I'm beginning to wonder if the other people on Showstudio who made the jacket just fudged this part, since it's impossible to get any definitive answer from the pattern or photos...  We should write a polite letter:
Dear Mr. Galliano,
In regards to your "Pirate Jacket," could you please explain the alignment and connection of pieces 8, 9, & 10 with the basque?

 
:D
Oh, and Cathou, that diagram you drew is invaluable!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 06, 2005 11:01:29 AM
I bought all my fabric for my jacket (so excited!!!). It's going to be a deep green (in twill) with a stripped linning (in a green-beige-blue colourway) with the grosgrain and bias tape a skye blue.
Cathou, where are you using the bias tape on the jacket?  I'm hoping to get my materials this weekend and I'll add bias tape to the list.

Also, are you still planning to make a second detachable sleeve?  I've been thinking a lot about how to attach it to the jacket.  I guess it would have to connect to the little gathered sleeve, but I worry that the weight would just pull the sleeve way down the shoulder.  I think I'll reverse the long sleeve pieces and then cut them just up to armpit length (on a kind of diagonal, I think).  Then there can be 3 or 4 female snaps along the top edge, and the male snaps concealed inside the lower gathered edge of the short sleeve.  That way, the jacket can either look as Galliano originally designed it, or the sleeve can be attached for chilly days.  If you think of another way to do the detachable sleeve, let me know.  :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: QueenbyQuinn on April 06, 2005 04:01:28 PM
 

If anyone cares, here's a bigger picture of the runway version. Firstview no longer has Galliano pix, so I used the Internet Wayback Machine to get this, but much to my dismay, there were no better pictures of the right side. The way she has it twisted here, a picture of the back probably would have shown what we need, but unfortunately they didn't get one. Sighhh.

Ellie Aston won Showstudio's "Taking Liberty's" contest by wearing her version of the jacket, but in the "winning picture" she is showing off the *left* side. There might be more pictures of her, but there are hundreds and hundreds of photos to search through and I just don't have the endurance, especially since there's probably no clear picture of the right side anyway. I'm out of ideas, both on finding a picture to help and on how this thing goes together.

This is making me very depressed.

hey i am not doing this, but there are a bundle of photos of the jacket on the site with the pattern in the images and gallery link.
http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_image.html
you probably have seen this, but i wasn't sure~


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 06, 2005 06:50:31 PM
I bought all my fabric for my jacket (so excited!!!). It's going to be a deep green (in twill) with a stripped linning (in a green-beige-blue colourway) with the grosgrain and bias tape a skye blue.
Cathou, where are you using the bias tape on the jacket?  I'm hoping to get my materials this weekend and I'll add bias tape to the list.

Also, are you still planning to make a second detachable sleeve?  I've been thinking a lot about how to attach it to the jacket.  I guess it would have to connect to the little gathered sleeve, but I worry that the weight would just pull the sleeve way down the shoulder.  I think I'll reverse the long sleeve pieces and then cut them just up to armpit length (on a kind of diagonal, I think).  Then there can be 3 or 4 female snaps along the top edge, and the male snaps concealed inside the lower gathered edge of the short sleeve.  That way, the jacket can either look as Galliano originally designed it, or the sleeve can be attached for chilly days.  If you think of another way to do the detachable sleeve, let me know.  :)

The bias tape i'm using to finish of the edges (where it says grosgrain à cheval).
I'm still planning on making a second sleeve (detachable of course so I can still have the cool look) I just havent figured it out yet, but I was planning something in the lines of what you are explaning.

I finished cutting all my pieces and fusing the interfacing (6 hours of cutting) and I couldnt find grosgrain ribbon in the colour I wanted so I dyed some and it worked.... i'm really amazed.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 09, 2005 11:05:26 AM
The confusing thing is that facing for the 7 flap...since the outside edge of the flap gets folded over *outwards*, how does that side of the facing get finished??

Has anyone found a solution for this flap? I'm looking at it and it doesn't make any sense to me....


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: junquette on April 09, 2005 07:58:59 PM
I am not making this but I have been following along. Am I right in thinking this part goes under the arm? I am just taking a stab in the dark here but from your diagram (which is great!!!) I wondered if you made a right angle to join piece 8 and 9. They look like they might be the same length. I also am not sure if the other side here would be the same. SO this would make an angle and then you would insert the rounded edge to this. Does this make sense? I can't make the diagram like you have to show it.  As I say I'm not even sure I'm on the right page with you on this but I think I might be tempted to give it a try. SO long as you aren't using leather or something that the removed seam would show up on.
I am sure others might have better ideas for you. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 11, 2005 08:26:03 AM
I thought that pictures of the work in progress would be good.

this is my main fabric


this is my lining


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 11, 2005 08:56:44 AM
I thought that pictures of the work in progress would be good.

I love that great striped lining!  It's great to get to see what your version looks like.  :)  I actually took a few photos of mine last night, and am going to post them when I get home.
It's a bit of a funny story...I had originally cut my test version out of an old prom dress I bought for $1, because that was actually cheaper than using muslin.  But as I was putting it together, I kept thinking how much I liked the fabric (red satin), so this weekend I went out and bought lining and grosgrain and am going to just keep going and make it into a finished jacket.  :D

I've been working on all the parts I understand (gosh, cathou, you were right about the sleeve being tight!) and am putting off the things I can't figure out.  The 7 flap is definitely on my "confusing" list, as well as the flap between 2 & 3 (I think that's where it is)..it does say "appliqued" on the pattern piece so it just gets sewn on top of the jacket front?  I haven't gone near the area under the left arm...I'm afraid of it.  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 12, 2005 02:47:50 PM
Here's what I have so far...cut out of that old red satin prom dress I mentioned.  I added grey-silver satin for the lining where it'll show (and I'll use darker blue-grey cotton where it won't show, to save money), and purple grosgrain.  I got extra-wide grosgrain because I realized I would prefer it with a really bold edge.

(the red is a little deeper than shown here...it looks a bit washed out in these photos)


I've had a bit of a change in how I look at Galliano's pattern.  I was originally working on it with the goal of faithfully and exactly reproducing his original jacket.  However, in the past few days, as I started to trim my own (and sew on some snaps, etc.), I felt more and more like the pattern is just a jumping-off point for us to interpret Galliano's design and make it our own.  Of course we want to be faithful when possible, but if we can't (for example) figure out how to attach the two sides under the right arm, we can interpret Galliano's design to incorporate our own systems to close the jacket.

A few quick questions...doesn't it seem strange that the right sleeve isn't fully lined?  Why does it just have that little casing along the bottom?  All the interfacing will be exposed inside the sleeve...
Also, I'm having difficulty figuring out exactly how and where piece 4 attaches to 5 at the top.  What is this "Insert A" that's mentioned on 4?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 12, 2005 03:39:39 PM
ohhh I love the red <3

The 7 flap is definitely on my "confusing" list, as well as the flap between 2 & 3 (I think that's where it is)..it does say "appliqued" on the pattern piece so it just gets sewn on top of the jacket front?  I haven't gone near the area under the left arm...I'm afraid of it.  :D

The 2 flap I sewed in the seam of 2 and 3 and it looks nice that way and all the notches matched so I guess it's a good thing :D.

A few quick questions...doesn't it seem strange that the right sleeve isn't fully lined? Why does it just have that little casing along the bottom? All the interfacing will be exposed inside the sleeve...
Also, I'm having difficulty figuring out exactly how and where piece 4 attaches to 5 at the top. What is this "Insert A" that's mentioned on 4?

As far as I can tell there shouldnt be any interfacing for the right sleeve as it would make it too stiff to get the gathered effect, and I can only suppose it isn't lined for the same reason.

As for the insert A .... I just ignored it (hehehe)

And for 4-5, I'll make a little drawing sometime tonight (I love making those little drawings!!)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 12, 2005 06:33:45 PM
Chose promise, chose due (french saying)



I think i'm a diagram junkie  ::)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 13, 2005 07:46:26 AM
I love your little drawings!  Do you make them in Illustrator?

Anyway, now I see how to make the corner smooth between 4 & 9.  Thanks!

I have "5 bis" stuck in there somewhere between 4 & 5 (I drew onto your nice diagram), so I'm just going to work around it when I overlap those two pieces to make the corner.

The 2 flap I sewed in the seam of 2 and 3 and it looks nice that way and all the notches matched so I guess it's a good thing :D.
Okay, I've decided to rip that seam open and put the flap in for real...it'll be worth the extra work.  ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 15, 2005 08:55:02 AM
Ok, first a solution and then a question.  :)

Here's my solution to the strange 7 flap.  The wrong side of the fabric is supposed to show, when it's folded back (notice that there's no interfacing on the back).  As follows:
1) finish raw right edge (as looking at pattern) with grosgrain
2) fold back on itself to the left, to line up as shown
3) sew lines perpendicular to the grosgrain where marked (seven different places)

Here's a photo of my finished 7 flap.  I took the liberty of backing it with my lining fabric, because the back of satin is un-lovely, and also I thought the silver would look good on the back of the jacket.
(EDIT: I just looked at the green runway version again, and noticed that her flap 7 is backed with the floral lining, same as I did with my silver.  I feel good that I had the same idea without realizing Galliano had done it that way too.  :D))

I didn't iron the fold flat, because I like the three-dimensional quality.
--------

Now for the question, and of course it's about that darn right sleeve.  I can't figure out how to piece together the sleeve with piece 10. 

I think I have 10 & the sleeve lined up correctly in this photo , but what is that strange curve for in the left bottom of the sleeve piece (see arrow)?  It's like a chunk taken out of the end...I can't figure out how to line it up with 10.


Here's a clearer explanation of the curve that I'm talking about.


On the original jacket, the bottom elastic casing seems to meet with 10, and I can't see any hint of what that cut-out curve on the pattern was for.

Any ideas?

Oh, and if anyone's interested, in the photo I folded & placed the "mini-sleeve" roughly where I think it should be sewn on, once it's elasticized.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 15, 2005 09:29:47 AM
 :o

Good thinking about the 7 flap!!!

as for the right sleeve: I think you join the 2 pieces for the right sleeve together (short ends together), and the part wher you have the curve will be sewed onto 10 and the other sides will form the little puff thing (I think i'm not all that clear). Whenever I get home I'll make a drawing, it wil make more sense that way.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 15, 2005 09:55:48 AM
:o

Good thinking about the 7 flap!!!

as for the right sleeve: I think you join the 2 pieces for the right sleeve together (short ends together), and the part wher you have the curve will be sewed onto 10 and the other sides will form the little puff thing (I think i'm not all that clear). Whenever I get home I'll make a drawing, it wil make more sense that way.

Okay...I think I follow where you're going with this.  But I'll wait for your drawing before I start sewing stuff together.  ;)
After I read your post, I suddenly remembered my sleeve idea back on page 5, and I realized that I'd been on the right track (generally), and then forgotten all about it.  ;D  Sewing this jacket is apparently making me stupider, but I love it anyway.  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 15, 2005 10:52:20 PM
Hi guys.

I have been offline for a bit.  (Lots of craziness, including the birth of my niece on Wednesday.)  Excited to see this progress!  I got my flags, finally, and I hope to have some pictures at some point in the near future.  Looks like I'm the only one who's doing a Union Jack jacket?

I'll see if I can help with questions and things tomorrow, I'm exhausted right now, but I just wanted to check in and let you know that I haven't disappeared...I'm going to have to work hard to catch up with the two of you!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 16, 2005 05:05:10 AM
Hi John - congrats on the birth of your niece!  Now you can start designing couture baby clothes.  ;)
I'm eager to learn how your Union Jack jacket progresses, because I'd love to make one eventually, if it seems possible.  Technically, this red one is my "test" version.  How many flags did you end up buying?  How are you going to compensate for seam allowance, when you cut out pieces where the pattern is supposed to continue smoothly between them?  (I'm thinking specifically about the white "arrow" design created with pieces 1, 2, and the 2-3 flap, and how all the lines run straight through the pieces.)  I can't wait to hear your solution - this is like the sewing version of brainteaser puzzles.  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: juniperl13 on April 16, 2005 05:43:55 AM
God this is fascinating to watch...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Zombie_Teeth on April 16, 2005 06:25:44 AM
God this is fascinating to watch...

I know, I've been lurking on this thread for quite some time :P


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 16, 2005 11:48:01 AM
Oh oh oh oh I was just staring at the pictures again and had an IDEA!  Excited, excited.....

WHAT IF: The basque dos actually separates from piece 8 just before the gathers, and then wraps around and overlaps over the ends of 9 & 10??  Not sewn on, just with a finished seam along the top, and then when it's put on to wear, you tuck 9 & 10 underneath as you wrap the basque dos over the top.  That would make it fall just below the buckle on 9, as John pointed out, and the flap could come around to snap the jacket shut.  AND if you zoom into the photo of her right side, and look at the space below where the front and back meet, it looks like there's a piece of fabric under there (almost certainly blue, with a bit of white showing along the bottom edge).  Check it out:


I think that must be the end of 9 & 10 lapping underneath the basque dos.  What do you all think?  It's hard to see in this sample because the resolution got really low when I uploaded it, but it shows you where I'm talking about.  Zoom into the full image on your computer and take a look!

UPDATE: Plus, I just measured and now I'm totally convinced.  If you measure along the top of the basque dos from the start of the gathers to the end of the right side, it's 16 cm (assuming 6 cm for the gathers as directed on the pattern).  Then, if you start measuring at the point on 8 marked (end of gathers) and measure upward toward the outer edge of 10, it's 16 cm not including seam allowance.  It lines up perfectly!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 16, 2005 09:47:42 PM
Tig, that could very well be it.  I definitely see the fabric under there, and Angela Keocharoen's looks loose (I thought it was just a bad appliqueing job.)  But it still leaves some unanswered questions, like why 9 & 10 are longer than 8.

Also, check out the picture of the back...I don't see any gathers anywhere on the basque, and the only thing that kind of looks like the "cord" mentioned is far away from the little blue triangle on piece 8 which should be where they are.  Incidentally, I only just figured out what cathou got way back on like page 3 of this thread, which is how it's closed in the runway version, with 10 snapped to 1.  This jacket makes me feel so very dumb.

I can't tell you how much I wish I could find a picture of the back of the runway version.  If the basque really is loose from 8, then where it snaps in the runway configuration is a real question, for example. 

As for the Union Jack, I got two 3x5' flags.  Since the front pieces are the only ones that have to really match, I figured that would be plenty.  The only problem is that there is no way to have the Union Jack pattern look as it does in the pictures if I want to follow the grainline marked on the pattern pieces.  You can understand it easily if you think of the "white arrow"...it's the corner of the big cross in the center of the flag.  So if I want it to look that way, I need to cut the pieces on bias, which I am reluctant to do.  Well, we'll see what I decide is more important when I cut out the pieces...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 17, 2005 07:13:06 AM
Also, check out the picture of the back...I don't see any gathers anywhere on the basque, and the only thing that kind of looks like the "cord" mentioned is far away from the little blue triangle on piece 8 which should be where they are. 
I agree - what I assumed were the gathers start further to the right of the blue triangle than marked on the pattern.  But then, they do on Angela's also. ???  Also. the area of the gathers really look like the basque is separate from the jacket.

The blue line marks the area that I assume are the basque gathers (edged in red grosgrain as marked on the basque).
The green arrow points to more red just behind the gathers.  This confused me for a long time, but then I realized it would make perfect sense for that to be the grosgrain bottom edge of 8, peeking out a bit where the gathers are causing spaces between the basque and the human body.
But that still doesn't explain why the gathers are so far to the right of the blue triangle.

This brings up another of my questions - on the basque, do the eyelets go all the way through the grosgrain, fabric, & lining?  That's how it seems, in order to make the basque gather to 6 cm between the marks, but I wanted to hear what you two thought before I started punching holes in my basque.  ;D

As for the Union Jacks, I see what you mean about the bias issue.  Could you use slightly heavier interfacing to stabilize the pieces somewhat?  I find this really interesting.  Are all the pieces off-grainline to the same degree?  If so, then Galliano's U.J. fabric might have just been woven with a different rotation of the pattern (e.g. across instead of along, or along instead of across).


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 17, 2005 08:14:02 AM
Here is a picture of what I meant for the right sleeve:




Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 17, 2005 10:05:58 AM
I think he may have either had a Union Jack pattern printed at a 45 degree angle, or maybe the pieces are cut on bias for the flag version and not the runway version.  I'm going to cut the lining and the interfacing on grain and hope they can keep it from stretching out too much.  (I was thinking of using pretty heavy interfacing for the front anyway, because I'm hoping to get the front part that flops open to stick out straight like in the pictures, rather than fall down like in my muslin.)  Other than the front I decided to just follow the grain marked on the pattern and not worry about precisely matching the pictures.  I'm totally certain it will look amazing anyway.

As for the basque gathers, I only see one eyelet on the pattern.  I guess my idea was that the cord would be secured on the left (looking at the pattern) and come out through an eyelet in the grosgrain?  So that section of the grosgrain would be like a casing.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 17, 2005 02:32:00 PM
Here is a picture of what I meant for the right sleeve:
Oh, excellent!  So I did understand it correctly after you described it.  :)  Never hurts to be certain before you start sewing stuff together...
I just put all those gathers & seams together and it looks great.

I'm totally certain it will look amazing anyway.
No kidding!  You should get your brother-in-law to take some photos-in-progress.  I can't wait to see how it looks!  ;D

As for the basque gathers, I only see one eyelet on the pattern. I guess my idea was that the cord would be secured on the left (looking at the pattern) and come out through an eyelet in the grosgrain? So that section of the grosgrain would be like a casing.
I see what you're saying... that single hand-drawn circle is the eyelet.  I had thought that the white dots were eyelets and the cord wove in and out of them, sort of like a corset only with most of the lacing on the underside, so that there were big folds sticking out, like the area I marked in blue on that last photo.  Could you get that large-fold effect by running the cord through a casing?  I think I'll test it on scrap fabric.

So if they're not eyelets, what the heck are those white dots??  ???


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 17, 2005 07:01:38 PM
I think they are showing us where to topstitch to create the casing around the cord.  Kind of like how the row of holes in piece #4 shows us where to applique piece #3.

So it looks like you guys put the grosgrain and everything on piece #9.  What's the deal with the buckles?  Are there two pieces of grosgrain buckled together?  I must confess to complete ignorance as far as buckles are concerned.

I'm enjoying this so much  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 18, 2005 09:25:45 AM
So it looks like you guys put the grosgrain and everything on piece #9.  What's the deal with the buckles?  Are there two pieces of grosgrain buckled together?  I must confess to complete ignorance as far as buckles are concerned.

Actually its one piece of grosgrain with 2 buckles, just follow de number for the grograin (ex: IV goes on IV, etc) and the ones for the buckles you have to fold where it says "pliure" and sew the buckle "in" (if that makes any sense)



And i'm having way too much fun when I should be doing my homework ::)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 18, 2005 03:20:41 PM
What's the deal with the buckles?
Actually its one piece of grosgrain with 2 buckles

And I did the same thing, just with square buckles instead:


----------------------
In other news, I was looking through one of my old magazines, and found this Galliano dress I've been drooling over.

If only I could get my hands on that pattern (and that fabric), it would totally be my next project.  ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: VooDooChild on April 18, 2005 04:36:35 PM
this is probably a stupid question, but how are you guys even getting to the pattern? i go the showstudio home page and cant find where the project(s) are. what do i click on?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 18, 2005 05:35:31 PM
this is probably a stupid question, but how are you guys even getting to the pattern? i go the showstudio home page and cant find where the project(s) are. what do i click on?

They recently re-organized their website.  Scroll to the bottom of the home page and go into the Archive.  Then scroll down through the archive to find "DESIGN_DOWNLOAD John Galliano."  That will take you to the pdf of the pattern.

Are you going to join us and sew a jacket?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: rainbowmeow on April 18, 2005 07:58:38 PM
Wow.  You guys sure have put a lot of work into this.  I definately want to do this.  But I'll be waiting a couple weeks for school to be done.  I need a long project to occupy my time.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 18, 2005 09:14:23 PM
Actually its one piece of grosgrain with 2 buckles, just follow de number for the grograin (ex: IV goes on IV, etc) and the ones for the buckles you have to fold where it says "pliure" and sew the buckle "in" (if that makes any sense)

Ah, silly me, thinking that they had any "use".  I couldn't find any buckles I liked at the store; we'll see what I come up with.  Maybe when I go to NYC this week.

Yeah Tig, I love just about everything he makes with that newspaper print.  That looks like a pretty severe corset!  People got really upset over that "homeless people" couture collection, where he first had the newspapers, but I thought it was amazing.

So anyway I've cut out all my pieces, but I ran out of interfacing, dammit.  I should have bought more when I was at the store last.  I want to sewwwwwwwww!  It's driving me crazy.  I've been taking regular pictures so I guess you'll get the whole bunch of "in progress" photos all at once at the end.  Sorry  :-[  My brother-in-law is too busy taking pictures of his new beautiful baby girl.

Showstudio is going to be so baffled when pictures of all these Pirate Jackets start rolling in...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 19, 2005 08:25:40 AM
So anyway I've cut out all my pieces, but I ran out of interfacing, dammit.  I should have bought more when I was at the store last.  I want to sewwwwwwwww!  It's driving me crazy.  I've been taking regular pictures so I guess you'll get the whole bunch of "in progress" photos all at once at the end.  Sorry  :-[  My brother-in-law is too busy taking pictures of his new beautiful baby girl.

:D  I'm in the same situation!  I'm getting low on grosgrain and am worried because the store only had about 4 more yards on the spool.  If it's all sold by the time I can get there and they don't have more in the back, I'm going to be very upset.  ;D

And I guess he can't be blamed for wanting to take pictures of his daughter...  :)

What are you two doing for the elastic straps under the left arm?  I looked at the elastics at the stores but honestly, they all looked cheap.  I was thinking about just doing it with more grosgrain and buckles to make the straps adjustable.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 19, 2005 09:55:45 AM

What are you two doing for the elastic straps under the left arm?  I looked at the elastics at the stores but honestly, they all looked cheap.  I was thinking about just doing it with more grosgrain and buckles to make the straps adjustable.


I hope I won't run out of grosgrain... since I had to dye it to get the color I wanted... I dont think I could reproduce it  :-\

For the elastic I found some skye blue elastic that I'm going to use (my mom keeps just about everything, I think it was recycled from a pair of pj :o


I want to work on my jacket!! but i'm stuck at school  :'(


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 19, 2005 09:23:35 PM
Here's something weird I noticed while sewing the sleeve tonight...our pattern is slightly different than the picture.  If you look, the jacket in the picture has a white piece on the bottom of the sleeve...but on the pattern, there is no such piece.  The bottom is the blue part, 4A-4C.  Mysterious.  Now I'm wondering if I should try to draft my own cuff piece, but then I'd have to buy a bigger zipper so I probably won't bother...

I must have tried a million times to make the lines match up perfectly on the sleeve, but then I noticed even in the pictures they're off by a teensy bit, so I stopped stressing.  It looks great anyway.

I can't find red elastic anywhere so I'm either going to go crazy and dye some white ones, or do a strap adjuster thing like on a backpack.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 19, 2005 11:24:21 PM
I decided to forget about the white bit and finish the sleeve tonight.  Holy cow, it is beautiful.  Holy cow, it is so skinny.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 22, 2005 09:10:12 AM
I can't find red elastic anywhere so I'm either going to go crazy and dye some white ones, or do a strap adjuster thing like on a backpack.

Here's how I did mine, and I really like how it looks.  I used the same buckles as on piece 9, and since I took this photo, the straps have been sewn down.

I also put the flap onto 6, which covers where the straps are sewn down, so the straps go under the flap and that looks even nicer, I think.


So I finally got to the point where I could start fitting it to myself, in terms of where the snap closures should be, etc.  It must be made for a girl that's completely flat!  (Well, it was designed for a model, and they're usually flat-chested, so I guess I just solved that mystery.  ;))


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: missgurle17 on April 23, 2005 11:22:30 AM
That looks sooo pretty...since I am a chicken and my sewing skills are no where near good enough to do this I have been 'watching' this tread waiting for the final result...

<3, Dana


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 23, 2005 11:36:47 AM
I have been 'watching' this tread waiting for the final result...

I'm getting really curious about how many people have been watching our progress...this is like the Craftster version of reality TV.  :D  Anyone else out there?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on April 23, 2005 08:59:07 PM
i'm watching :) i can't sew this until after i move in two months, so i'm living vicariously...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Sanderpoo on April 23, 2005 09:48:57 PM
I've been watching also.  I've become emotionally invested in this thread and am anxiously awaiting pics of when you guys finish.  I feel motherly pride for you guys when you figure something out and make progress.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: belleaurora on April 23, 2005 10:19:19 PM
I come in here and spy sometimes, too ;)



----------------------
In other news, I was looking through one of my old magazines, and found this Galliano dress I've been drooling over.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v60/spykitten/Crafting_Sewing/IMG_4859_small.jpg
If only I could get my hands on that pattern (and that fabric), it would totally be my next project.  ;D
HOLY CRIPES! That is so flipping awesome.  Is there a better picture of the whole thing somewhere?  It's so hawt.  Man, I wish I was model-sized and had "madd sewing skillzzzzz"  :-\


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: NVA on April 23, 2005 11:08:24 PM
I have been 'watching' this tread waiting for the final result...

I'm getting really curious about how many people have been watching our progress...this is like the Craftster version of reality TV.  :D  Anyone else out there?

I'll admit, I too, am this board's stalker (goodness, I sound like I'm at rehab :D ).


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: xxblueiris on April 23, 2005 11:26:36 PM
i looooooooooooovvvvvvvvvvveeeeeeeeeeeeee galliano
he's the best
in fact if u go on my myspace i have a pic of him!!!
he rox
by the way my myspace is myspace.com/suzy_baribe


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: dusk on April 24, 2005 10:25:24 AM
i'm not spying, honest... merely observing from the shadows  ;D ;D ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 24, 2005 08:21:45 PM
Wow, we're famous.

Tig, the 6 and 7 straps still confuse me.  In the picture it looks like all one piece.  Do they both go in between 6 & 7?  Do they connect to each other?  Their notches are most mysterious.

Knowing all these people are watching makes me self-conscious about being the one who never figures out anything  :-[  But at least my jacket will be amazing.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: belleaurora on April 24, 2005 10:39:56 PM
Haha, don't be insecure!  You're paving the way!  If we lurkers ever decide to attempt the almighty jacket at a latter time, then we know you'll have the answers with your oh-so-perfect jacket ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 25, 2005 05:29:06 AM
Wow, we're famous.

Tig, the 6 and 7 straps still confuse me.  In the picture it looks like all one piece.  Do they both go in between 6 & 7?  Do they connect to each other?  Their notches are most mysterious.

Knowing all these people are watching makes me self-conscious about being the one who never figures out anything  :-[  But at least my jacket will be amazing.
Hey, you answer a lot of my questions!  Anyway, half the time my "conclusions" turn out to be wrong.  ;D
But now I'm all self-conscious too.  ;)

As for 6 & 7, the simple truth is that I fudged this part.  I couldn't figure out the picture either (they definitely seem to be the same piece, since the top grosgrain goes all the way across the tops of 6 & 7 together).  And after several late nights of notch confusion, I just decided to do the following:
- stitch flap 7 into the seam between pieces 6 & 7, pressing it to lie flat against 7
- put flap 6 on top of piece 6, a bit to the left of the 6/7 seam, and then just topstitch on there (seam allowance already pressed in)
This was total artistic license because it wasn't the original Galliano method, but I was determined to get them attached, and in the end it looks quite nice!  There's a cool little "line" of silver satin backing peeking out from underneath the sewn edge of 6.  I'll post a pic when I have a chance.

I'm procrastinating on putting in the sleeve.  Even though it's not a complete sleeve, just half of the top seam, I'm still not looking forward to it.  My sewing machine is built into a table, so I can't slip the fabric around the narrow end like on a regular sewing machine.  I have to try to lay it all flat, with the rest of the fabric around it buckling up and getting in the way.  Well, it's good practice.  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 25, 2005 08:36:16 AM
Wow, we're famous.

Tig, the 6 and 7 straps still confuse me.  In the picture it looks like all one piece.  Do they both go in between 6 & 7?  Do they connect to each other?  Their notches are most mysterious.

Knowing all these people are watching makes me self-conscious about being the one who never figures out anything  :-[  But at least my jacket will be amazing.

Actually I have sewn both flaps in between 6 and 7 and pressed them open... I'll take a pic when I get home.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 26, 2005 02:20:35 AM
I have come up with *a* solution, probably not *the* solution, to the 6/7 flap conundrum, but it is complicated so I'll have to try and explain it when it is not 5 in the morning and I have been up all night trying to figure things out.  I don't even know if it'll really work yet, but I really need to go to sleep, so goodnight for now. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: VooDooChild on April 26, 2005 01:44:37 PM
hey cathou, individual frog, and tigralon, i know you've got your hands full right now, but i think the group-sewing effort is a great idea. would you guys be interested in sewing the mcqueen kimono top (on showstudio) with me later, when youre all proudly modelling your galliano jackets?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on April 26, 2005 02:52:48 PM
hey cathou, individual frog, and tigralon, i know you've got your hands full right now, but i think the group-sewing effort is a great idea. would you guys be interested in sewing the mcqueen kimono top (on showstudio) with me later, when youre all proudly modelling your galliano jackets?

I already did the mcQueen kimono top (there is a topic about it in the completed projects) ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 26, 2005 03:07:16 PM
hey cathou, individual frog, and tigralon, i know you've got your hands full right now, but i think the group-sewing effort is a great idea. would you guys be interested in sewing the mcqueen kimono top (on showstudio) with me later, when youre all proudly modelling your galliano jackets?
I'm planning to sew that one next, as a matter of fact.  You better believe that as soon as the Galliano jacket sew-along is finished, you'll see my new post to organize a McQueen sewalaong.  ;)  I'm really getting into this whole "sew-along" thing.

But I would definitely encourage you to check out cathou's post in any case.  She used some really beautiful pinstriped fabric.  Hey cathou - great choice of fabric, btw!  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 26, 2005 04:55:55 PM
I'd love to do the McQueen top, but it depends on how busy I am.  I need to make myself a couple suits this summer for my new job.  Anyway it has instructions so it probably won't require as much of a group effort, although it sure is fun to be working together like this.

So my idea for the 6 & 7 flaps is basically to sew the right side of the 6 flap to the 7 flap (in between the flap and the facing so the seam will be finished) and the left side into the 6 & 7 seam.  Then the snaps on the 6 flap snap onto the snaps that go on the 5 & 6 seam.  So it makes a kind of J shape, going from the 6 & 7 seam left to the 5 & 6 seam and then back right across 7.  Does that make sense?  The only problem is that I'm not sure if this will make the flaps hang wrong on top.  On the bottom, if you look closely at the runway picture, it looks like the bottoms of the flaps are caught in the same grosgrain that finishes the bottom of 5, 6, 7, and 8, so that won't move around too badly, but the top might.  There is a "metal stud" on the 7 flap but if it's a snap, there's nowhere on 7 to snap it to.

So I'm going to try this and if it totally doesn't work, oh well, I'll just rip it out and try again.  I think it's worth a shot though.  I'll let you know how it goes.

By the way, has anyone done the grosgrain on the four little flaps (the ones that go on the basque and near the left shoulder, etc.)?  I have tried various methods to get the grosgrain to get around that curve without looking too horrible but none of them have worked particularly well, not even doing it by hand.  It looks okay, but not as nice as it ought.  Any advice?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 27, 2005 08:59:40 PM
Wow!  I had the day off and I got soooo much done on my jacket today.  the body of the jacket is pretty much constructed, and I almost finished the basque (but I didn't put it on, of course, since I'm still not quite sure how...

It looks nice.  But I can't help feeling like maybe I rushed ahead without thinking and now I will have to take it all apart again for one reason or another.  Hope not, hope not!  My 6 & 7 flap method seems to have worked out okay...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on April 28, 2005 05:30:33 PM
I'm back!  Back to working on the jacket, I mean.  I've spent most of the week on my final class project - my ideas for costumes for "The Tempest" (but not sewing them, thank goodness!  Just drawing them.)  It was fun, but I'm happy that it's over and I can get back to my jacket.  :D

So I promised photos of my interpretation of the 6/7 flap issue.  I think that you both sewed them much more accurately, but I like the way mine looks:



A close-up on how you can see a sliver of silver along the right side, because I sewed it with both sides free.


From the other angle, with the flap flipped back to show the silver underside.

By the way, has anyone done the grosgrain on the four little flaps (the ones that go on the basque and near the left shoulder, etc.)? I have tried various methods to get the grosgrain to get around that curve without looking too horrible but none of them have worked particularly well, not even doing it by hand. It looks okay, but not as nice as it ought. Any advice?
The little flaps are my little enemies. After a lot of fighting with flaps, pins, and grosgrain, I gave in and just sewed it on by machine.  The curve isn't very smooth, even though I took little tucks under the presser foot as I went around, but I've decided that they're good enough.  Isn't there some quote saying that true beauty lies in imperfection? ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 01, 2005 01:18:36 PM
Ack, I was right about rushing.  I forgot to put the II ribbons in the 2/3 seam and the 6/7 seam!  CURSES.  Well, at least I haven't put on the lining yet like I was thinking of doing today.

How's it coming cathou?  Did you ever take a picture of the 6/7 flap?  My latest theory is maybe it's just a totally separate piece which just snaps on...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 01, 2005 02:15:18 PM
I forgot to put the II ribbons in the 2/3 seam and the 6/7 seam!  CURSES.  Well, at least I haven't put on the lining yet like I was thinking of doing today.

Ah, but no need to worry!  Because there's a flap on either side that covers where they go into the seam, you can just sew them right onto the body of the jacket under the flap, and no-one will be the wiser.  (That is, if you don't want to rip open the seams. :)  I've ripped so many seams on this jacket!  I should keep count...)

I pinned my lining in, but I've been putting off the actual attaching, because I keep thinking of things I need to do before it's closed up.  I'm sure I'll forget something no matter what!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 02, 2005 08:42:57 AM
Ack, I was right about rushing.  I forgot to put the II ribbons in the 2/3 seam and the 6/7 seam!  CURSES.  Well, at least I haven't put on the lining yet like I was thinking of doing today.

How's it coming cathou?  Did you ever take a picture of the 6/7 flap?  My latest theory is maybe it's just a totally separate piece which just snaps on...

Yes I have the pictures!!






I'm still at the same point I was last week because I haven't had time to work on it, but I am curious to see how the right sleeve came out though....


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 02, 2005 09:54:34 AM
So my main concern with Tigralon's idea for the basque is what happens to it when the jacket is buttoned a la the runway.  It obviously just can't hang loose.  Well, last night I had an idea which, though demonstrably not true (see pics) seems to work pretty well--you could snap the basque onto that one male snap on the 2 flap (the second snap from the bottom.

I still wonder what the heck they did with it in real life.  But maybe this is as close as we're going to come to understanding it.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 02, 2005 10:02:45 AM
So my main concern with Tigralon's idea for the basque is what happens to it when the jacket is buttoned a la the runway.  It obviously just can't hang loose.  Well, last night I had an idea which, though demonstrably not true (see pics) seems to work pretty well--you could snap the basque onto that one male snap on the 2 flap (the second snap from the bottom.

I still wonder what the heck they did with it in real life.  But maybe this is as close as we're going to come to understanding it.

That is a super-great idea, plus that would solve another problem that I've realized will occur - a large exposed gap on the right side of the jacket.  When I pinned it around, the very minimal coverage made it desirable for a runway show but not terribly appropriate for public wear.  If the basque could snap around, that could help make it a bit more modest, and a bit more wearable!

It's too bad that it's not part of his current collection or we could track a jacket down in a boutique and go examine how it closes (and take lots of surreptitious photos ;)).  Although I'm sure this jacket never actually made it to the stores.  We'd have to sneak behind the scenes at the fashion show.
But now I'm wondering...where do all these outrageous garments go after the shows?  If people don't buy them and wear them, do they go into the designer's private archives?  Get donated to somewhere like F.I.T.?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 02, 2005 10:10:02 PM
I imagine they made this jacket to order.  Who knows how many are out there.  My guess is between 10 and 25, but I have really no idea.

This *is* a jacket of course, so if you are worried about exposing skin, you don't need to wear it like in the pictures without anything underneath...maybe a cool T-shirt?

Anyway.  I'm about to rip a bunch of seams to put in the @#%! "elastics" although I'm going the buckle route like Tigralon.  Unless I hate it and rip it out again...sigh.  I think I have to take open the part where 3 is appliqued onto 4 as well, in order to attach the lining correctly.  That part is tricky.  I think the lining needs to be attached to 3 before the applique thing happens...?

I have been assuming that the grosgrain edging will catch both lining and self, and thus elminate the need for hand-stitching or any attaching-lining tricks.  But what's the deal with the flap which attaches to the bottom of 4? It can't very well be just appliqued onto the lining.  The mysteries never cease with this dangblasted jacket.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 03, 2005 10:59:26 AM
Hey guys, I've been in the shadows of this and I'm ready to take the plunge...soon.  I was wondering, how much fabric, supplies etc do you need for this??  I've had this pattern forever and now I'm ready to sew it.  Wouldn't this make a really cool summer "jean" jacket?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 03, 2005 01:27:18 PM
This *is* a jacket of course, so if you are worried about exposing skin, you don't need to wear it like in the pictures without anything underneath...maybe a cool T-shirt?
Indeed, I was considering a nice (not cotton) tank top, but the neckline could look odd.  I like it best in the photo with no shirt underneath...problem then is that any brassiere would peek through the gap.  I'll update if I find a good solution.

But what's the deal with the flap which attaches to the bottom of 4? It can't very well be just appliqued onto the lining. The mysteries never cease with this dangblasted jacket.
Tell me about it!  That darn flap is hanging there, taunting us.  I decided to edge my flap in grosgrain all around, even along the top, then after I close up the bottom of the jacket and lining with the grosgrain, I'll applique it by hand onto the underside.  I think that's what they did, by looking at the picture.

I was wondering, how much fabric, supplies etc do you need for this?? Wouldn't this make a really cool summer "jean" jacket?
Hmm, I don't know fabric yardage because I cut it out of a prom dress.  ;D  If you make a mock-up then you could just keep track of how many yards of muslin you use.  It could definitely be interesting in jean material!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on May 03, 2005 08:09:10 PM
as i understand it, none of you altered the size, is that right?  i'd like to make this for myself but i think it will involve more than changing the snap locations to get a nice fit as i'm pretty curvy although smallish.  can anyone give me an idea of the chest or waist measurements as they are coming out? 
all the pictures look so beautiful, i can't wait to make this in a few months...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 03, 2005 10:01:46 PM
as i understand it, none of you altered the size, is that right?  i'd like to make this for myself but i think it will involve more than changing the snap locations to get a nice fit as i'm pretty curvy although smallish.  can anyone give me an idea of the chest or waist measurements as they are coming out? 
all the pictures look so beautiful, i can't wait to make this in a few months...

actually I made the long sleeve an inch larger in diameter because it was so small


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 03, 2005 11:51:21 PM
I don't really know the yardage because I cut mine out of flags and three colors of fabric.  Guessing, I would say 2 yards each of self and lining would be enough, but I really don't know.

As for measurements, it's very difficult to say because of the weird shape, but when you button it "runway style" the waist is pretty tiny.  I'll try to get an approximate measurement for you, but it will be a little difficult and I can make no guarantees as to accuracy.

Tig, that's probably the only solution to that flap.  I swear to God, when I am a rich and famous fashion designer I am going to call up John Galliano and demand to see one of these jackets so I can see how it's all really supposed to be done.

I now have a sort of deadline, which is the 22nd, when the person I was going to have model it for me leaves town for the summer.  As long as I can get a ride to the fabric store *soon* (I'm out of grosgrain! and snaps!) I think I can do it.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 04, 2005 05:42:28 AM
as i understand it, none of you altered the size, is that right?  i'd like to make this for myself but i think it will involve more than changing the snap locations to get a nice fit as i'm pretty curvy although smallish.  can anyone give me an idea of the chest or waist measurements as they are coming out?  
all the pictures look so beautiful, i can't wait to make this in a few months...

Actually, this is exactly the problem I was referring to, a few posts back.  I'm small but curvy also, and the jacket fits perfectly everywhere except across the chest.  I haven't yet figured out how to solve this for my figure, although even if I had discovered it before starting, I'm not sure how the pattern could have been neatly altered anyway.

https://www.craftster.org/pictures/data/500/4415bande_6_7.JPG
I'm still at the same point I was last week because I haven't had time to work on it, but I am curious to see how the right sleeve came out though....
Cathou, I love how you angled the striped lining along the edge of that flap!  Such a nice touch.
I also haven't been able to do anything more for the last week.  Stupid real-world responsibilities, taking up our time!  ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 04, 2005 11:04:11 AM
I have the same prob...small and busty.  I would check where the point around the  bust where it's tighest.  At that point, widen to the necessary measurement.  Remember to do it on both sides of the garment.  If you increase 1 side by and inch, then it would be a 2 inch increase across the bust because you have to reapeat that 1 inch measurement on the other side of the garment.  Once you maeked that, take a curved ruler and blend into the original seam.  Add the appropriate seam allowances to the new line and fit it again.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 04, 2005 12:28:20 PM
I think Tigralon probably knows how to alter a pattern, but it's a matter of the crazy complexity of the pieces.  It's not like there's a classic princess line to add more fullness to or something.  There's no "both sides" because it's completely asymmetrical. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on May 04, 2005 05:33:38 PM
I think Tigralon probably knows how to alter a pattern, but it's a matter of the crazy complexity of the pieces. It's not like there's a classic princess line to add more fullness to or something. There's no "both sides" because it's completely asymmetrical.

thanks for all the ideas/answers!  i think it will be tricky to increase the size and keep all the pieces in order, but now i'm thinking of adding a little to each piece... it's going to be tricky to keep that lovely flat front shape and fit at the same time.   i'm so tempted to start working on this, trying to fight it, but i may just give in :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: itsmartinitime on May 05, 2005 07:19:09 AM
Stalking this board is like watching a car crash for me.
Its scary (my god, how are you people managing to decipher that pattern???), makes me feel bad (why am I watching, I should be CREATING!), but mainly, I can't stop watching (because its awesome, and you guys are doing such a good job!)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Randommarble on May 05, 2005 09:24:45 AM
hi, everyone seems to be doing so well. Leah created the sewalong board yesterday so perhaps this could be moved there (my topics are very lonely at the moment).


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 05, 2005 10:09:07 AM
hi, everyone seems to be doing so well. Leah created the sewalong board yesterday so perhaps this could be moved there (my topics are very lonely at the moment).
Wow, a whole Sewalong section?  I like to imagine that our dedicated efforts on the Galliano jacket have been part of the inspiration for this new board.  :D

We've got this little democracy o' three going, so I'll leave it up to cathou and IndividualFrog.  What do you two think? Shall we venture into the new frontier of Sewalong?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 05, 2005 10:52:49 AM
Is it possible to move the whole thread and not start a new one?  If other people do the jacket and want to see our process, it would be very confusing if there are two threads.

I have replenished my supplies and I hope to get a lot done this weekend.  Very exciting...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 05, 2005 11:16:22 AM
Is it possible to move the whole thread and not start a new one?  If other people do the jacket and want to see our process, it would be very confusing if there are two threads.

I have replenished my supplies and I hope to get a lot done this weekend.  Very exciting...
Oh, that didn't even occur to me and I definitely agree with that point.  If we would have to start a new thread, then I would say no way.  I just assumed that the existing thread could be moved.

I'm hoping to make progress this weekend also!  I've been hanging back because there are so many issues to be addressed that we haven't been able to solve.  For example, I want to attach my basque...but I'm not sure of exactly the best method.  And let's not get started again on the whole "right sleeve attachment" question.  I say, avast ye mateys, full steam ahead!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 05, 2005 11:54:18 AM
I think a moderator could move the whole thread in another section.

I still haven't done anything since well 2 weeks ago maybe... I was all caught up in my knitting :o And now I have to study, god damn midterms :'(


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 05, 2005 03:26:55 PM
If we can move the thread I'm all for it.

Is there a question on the right sleeve??


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 05, 2005 08:49:17 PM
Since the pieces are asymetrical, I would make up the front body of the garment, then increase it by the necessary measurement.  Or you can take the total amount that is needed, and divide evenly among the pieces that make up the front part of the garment.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Randommarble on May 06, 2005 09:09:16 AM
I think the person who started the thread (I believe that was Tigralon) has 'the power' to move the thread. There should be a 'Move Topic' at the bottom of the thread. I think this enables you  to move the entire thread.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 06, 2005 09:36:18 AM
Thanks, Randommarble.  We have a new home!
It was pretty funny to see the # of posts on the Sewalong board jump from 15 to 165.  :)

Hopefully we'll inspire other people to start their own sewalongs.  I'm really having a great time, all working on the project together.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 06, 2005 11:06:00 AM
I just swung by Showstudio and it says they're getting a new "downloadable garment" (I assume they mean a pattern and not one of those T-shirts) soon...can't wait to see what it is.

I started putting on the lining last night, getting it right around the 3/4 seam is tricky, and I accidentally cut a hole in the lining while I was working on it there...so I might take it all off again, sighhh....


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 06, 2005 07:23:30 PM
I decided to sew instead of study!! So I did a lot of stuff today: I finally finished the right sleeve and put it in and I sewed most of the lining in also. Now it looks more and more like it supposed to!!

does anyone know how the "languette" and "bande" for the basque get sewed on?? ... do I just sew it on top of the basque??


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 06, 2005 07:46:08 PM
here's how I did the basque:

* first I put on the interfacing to both the self and lining
* I sewed the "languette" to the basque, of both the self and the lining, starting and ending the seam about an inch from the sides
* I appliqued grosgrain VII and VIII onto the self basque and languette, and topstitched VIII to make the cord casing
* I put the grosgrain edging on the bande
* I appliqued the bande onto the self
* I attached the two flaps on the sides of the self
* I pinned the self to the lining and sewed around, leaving most of the bottom open, clipped the corners, understitched, and turned it all rightside-out
* I put the grosgrain edging on the languette, catching both the self and the lining
* I topstitched around the whole basque, closing the bottom.

Except of course what I really did was sew something, realize I needed to do something else first, rip it out again, etc. etc....


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: aribobari on May 07, 2005 09:04:17 PM
wow you guys are amazing  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 08, 2005 07:42:41 AM
* I appliqued grosgrain VII and VIII onto the self basque and languette, and topstitched VIII to make the cord casing

Oh $%*[email protected], I forgot all about the cord casing.  How exactly did you decide to do that in the end?  Now I remember we had talked about it, but while putting together my basque, I had completely forgotten.  Did you just put two grommets into the grosgrain, and then run a piece of cord through?  Did you put those grippy clips at either end of the cord where it comes out, or just knot it, or what?

I can't believe that I completely forgot a step.  ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 08, 2005 12:58:13 PM
Well!  I did  a ton of work this weekend.  All I have left to do is attach the basque and put on a few snaps (I broke my #&@! snap attacher!  Again!)  It's so close to done.  It looks amazing.  I can't wait till I get to see it *on* somebody...

What I did with the cord casing is, I figured out where the eyelet should be and put it on, then I appliqued the top of VIII to the basque, leaving the bottom of VIII open.  Then I sewed along the marks to make the casing, then used the ol' safety pin method to pull the cord through the casing, and then sewed over the end without the eyelet, so it was secured.  Then I used one of those thingies on the other side, what are they called?  The same things that are on the right sleeve elastics.

Now I just have to figure out how the damn  basque attaches.  Such a freaking mystery.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 08, 2005 08:25:02 PM
sorry, I should have been clearer, I put the eyelet on the VIII grosgrain, although I'm not 100% certain that's correct.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 09, 2005 07:10:17 AM
sorry, I should have been clearer, I put the eyelet on the VIII grosgrain, although I'm not 100% certain that's correct.
Well, I realized that I already sewed together all my basque pieces, and I'm not about to take them apart (again).  ;D  So I think I'll just do a faux gathered piece - that could easily be appliqued on top of the grosgrain band on the basque.

I am going crazy with having no time to sew!  This weekend I had to finish my projects for a swap (pirate-themed, natch).  I want to sew in the lining so badly!!!  It's all pinned and everything!!
Did you have any problems putting in your lining?

Oh, and I'm really excited to hear that there might be a new pattern arriving at Showstudio...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 09, 2005 08:34:59 PM
OK!  Well, I put on the basque, just appliqueing it from the far left to where the gathers begin (this way, it's adjustable...gathering it to 6 cm never really made sense to me because then it's so, so tiny.)  It seems to work okay.  When I put the snaps on 10, I think, it'll be easier to see if it's totally right.  But it looks okay to me.  I finished the bottom of 8 with grosgrain edging, although it doesn't say to, because I couldn't figure out anything else...

But now I've realized I never put in the "shoelace cord of at least 21 cm" on the left shoulder...does anybody know what this is supposed to do, where it is supposed to go??

It's amazing to look at this thing, basically done.  Just a few odds and ends to take care of.  Pictures soon, I promise...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 09, 2005 09:14:12 PM
OK!  Well, I put on the basque, just appliqueing it from the far left to where the gathers begin (this way, it's adjustable...gathering it to 6 cm never really made sense to me because then it's so, so tiny.)  It seems to work okay.  When I put the snaps on 10, I think, it'll be easier to see if it's totally right.  But it looks okay to me.  I finished the bottom of 8 with grosgrain edging, although it doesn't say to, because I couldn't figure out anything else...

But now I've realized I never put in the "shoelace cord of at least 21 cm" on the left shoulder...does anybody know what this is supposed to do, where it is supposed to go??

It's amazing to look at this thing, basically done.  Just a few odds and ends to take care of.  Pictures soon, I promise...

for the shoelace... if you look at the picture of the back (the union jack one) you can see the soelace going across her back ... I think it just help to support de jacket


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 10, 2005 12:07:56 AM
for the shoelace... if you look at the picture of the back (the union jack one) you can see the soelace going across her back ... I think it just help to support de jacket

Ohhhhh wow!  Crazy.  I never noticed that before.  I guess it attaches to 10?  It seems so unnecessary, and sort of ugly...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 10, 2005 01:04:53 AM
Oh yeah and one more thing, I think we *do* just applique that little flap to the lining...if you look at the picture of the right side, and brighten it a little, you can see that it's just kind of stuck on there.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 10, 2005 07:52:21 AM
for the shoelace... if you look at the picture of the back (the union jack one) you can see the soelace going across her back ... I think it just help to support de jacket

Ohhhhh wow!  Crazy.  I never noticed that before.  I guess it attaches to 10?  It seems so unnecessary, and sort of ugly...

Yeah, I remember noticing that way back before we even started the jacket, and thinking it looked a bit ugly also.  I had completely forgotten about it.  I guess I'll wait until it's basically finished and then see if I need it there.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Punkiee_Junkiee on May 10, 2005 11:13:56 AM
I really couldnt help you! i have no idae! but i love pirates to :D
Im having a gig dedicated to me and its pirate theme becuase of me! hehe! goo pirates!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 12, 2005 10:51:14 PM
I am done.


At least as far as I know.  Maybe I will notice something I forgot.  But I think I'm done.  All the snaps, etc.  I tried my idea of snapping the basque to the 2 flap and it works perfectly well.  Although you can't possibly gather the cord on the basque to 6 cm and make it reach anywhere--I think maybe it should say 16 cm.  Also I didn't do the shoelace thing, it seems to stay up fine without it.

Somebody was asking for the measurements, I will tentatively state them as 26 waist, 32 bust.  Having boobs and wearing this jacket are somewhat incompatible ideas.

I will get pictures up as soon as I possibly can.  How are you guys coming along?  I'm going to try to get an elaborate "photo shoot" together, we'll see.  I think we should put up our final products in the Completed Projects section--but should we each do one thread or should we combine?  I'm thinking combine...

I can't wait to see yours!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on May 12, 2005 10:57:33 PM
i bet you are pretty satisfied!  thanks so much for the measurements, it seems possible to me now... i've been scrounging green silk here and there so i think i will do a tonal design (all green) but various shades/some texture variations of silk.  one main piece is a prayer scarf from nepal so it has very light images and prayers written on it.  I'll have to back all of it with something yet to be determined.  I suppose when the final pictures come up there will be a round two sew along (hope) from whoever else gets inspired :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 13, 2005 04:34:07 AM
I am done.

YIPPEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   ;D

Oh, I am so vicariously excited for you!!!  My jacket has been languishing but it'll be done soon(ish).  I can't wait to see your photos with your pirate model.  :)
Yup, I agree that a combined thread would be a great idea.

And how did everything go with attaching the sleeve & basque to piece 1?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Zombie_Teeth on May 13, 2005 12:19:29 PM
I can't wait to see the jackets you guys have made. Wow, the size is tiny- and I'd fit into it! That realllly makes me want to make this jacket now. I never fit into things, and this would be perfect for me. Haha, one of the few times I'm like "Yeah, small boobs, rock on!" I hope you guys will collaborate and create instructions how to put this jacket together too :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: skye691 on May 13, 2005 01:39:32 PM
aw man.. I wish I didn't have boobs now. =/

I can't wait to see finished pictures either..

and I realllly wish it were bigger..


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: rainbowmeow on May 13, 2005 03:33:47 PM
I can't wait to see the jackets you guys have made. Wow, the size is tiny- and I'd fit into it! That realllly makes me want to make this jacket now. I never fit into things, and this would be perfect for me. Haha, one of the few times I'm like "Yeah, small boobs, rock on!" I hope you guys will collaborate and create instructions how to put this jacket together too :)

Me too!  I've put this jacket on a to-do list.  I'm really excited to do it, but not until I have enough money to get nice fabric.     :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 14, 2005 12:10:27 PM
Closing the jacket "showstudio style" also works fine, although I worry about it covering all that it must cover.  Though I suppose a pirate would not worry much about indecency.  When I get a real person into it, I'll let you know.

Writing out a step-by-step instruction guide would be quite a daunting task...I think we've covered the trouble spots pretty well, and I'm sure I speak for all of us when I say we'll be around to answer questions whenever you get stuck...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 14, 2005 12:21:48 PM
Writing out a step-by-step instruction guide would be quite a daunting task...I think we've covered the trouble spots pretty well, and I'm sure I speak for all of us when I say we'll be around to answer questions whenever you get stuck...

I second that.

I also think that a lot of the fun in sewing this jacket comes from putting together the puzzle myself, rather than just following a list of steps.  As Galliano says in his comments on the showstudio page, this jacket is as much about the experience of making it as it is about wearing it.  I had such a sense of achievement every time I solved another little part of the mystery.

I'm actually going to miss this experience, when it's over (if I ever finish ;)).  It's been so much more challenging, and rewarding, to sew while flying blind, rather than just following a pattern with all the helpful little drawings.  If only we could convince Galliano to release a sequel...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: twiggymissretro on May 17, 2005 05:31:17 PM
i think you guys are really brave!! i was scared when i saw it! i love this jacket tho..how long have you guys been sewing...im wondering if im ready or not! lol


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: missgurle17 on May 17, 2005 10:05:55 PM
Someone said they were done, did I mistake that? I am dying to see pictures...


<3, Dana


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 18, 2005 12:59:44 PM
how long have you guys been sewing...

Well, I've been sewing (or using other things like staplers ;D) to make clothes since I was a kid, so I would say maybe 15 years of off & on practice.  But I've never taken a class - my mum just taught me the basics, like how to use patterns, pick fabric, use the sewing machine, &c &c.  In college I got a free sewing machine that's still with me today, and I sew when I have time, but not very regularly.
I'm pretty sure that IndividualFrog and cathou have both had more experience than I have - they can both draft patterns (i.e. make up a pattern for a garment without any guidelines) and I can't do that.  I'm limited to draping (it's what it sounds like - you drape the fabric around the figure and cut accordingly).

Someone said they were done, did I mistake that? I am dying to see pictures...
IndividualFrog is done but I'm betting he'll have a tough time getting that digital camera away from his brother-in-law, what with the new baby making cute photo ops every 5 minutes.  ;)


And now...on to my update.  I am so close to being finished!  At this point, it's basically a matter of getting it fitted to me in the most flattering manner, which means fiddling with exact snap placement before I sew them all down, because I am feeling perfectionistic in regards to this jacket.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 18, 2005 01:09:03 PM
how long have you guys been sewing...

Well, I've been sewing (or using other things like staplers ;D) to make clothes since I was a kid, so I would say maybe 15 years of off & on practice.  But I've never taken a class - my mum just taught me the basics, like how to use patterns, pick fabric, use the sewing machine, &c &c.  In college I got a free sewing machine that's still with me today, and I sew when I have time, but not very regularly.
I'm pretty sure that IndividualFrog and cathou have both had more experience than I have - they can both draft patterns (i.e. make up a pattern for a garment without any guidelines) and I can't do that.  I'm limited to draping (it's what it sounds like - you drape the fabric around the figure and cut accordingly).

Someone said they were done, did I mistake that? I am dying to see pictures...
IndividualFrog is done but I'm betting he'll have a tough time getting that digital camera away from his brother-in-law, what with the new baby making cute photo ops every 5 minutes.  ;)


And now...on to my update.  I am so close to being finished!  At this point, it's basically a matter of getting it fitted to me in the most flattering manner, which means fiddling with exact snap placement before I sew them all down, because I am feeling perfectionistic in regards to this jacket.

I've been sewing for about 15 years also, my mom taught me the basics also and I went crazy from there!! I'm almost finished also except I lost a flap and the elastic that fits on the side  :'( .

I already put all the snaps up, I opted for some snaps you have to hamer in. (sewing snap isn't one of my favourite thing... I guess I could take some picture tonight of what it looks like right now


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 18, 2005 01:13:22 PM
I already put all the snaps up, I opted for some snaps you have to hamer in. (sewing snap isn't one of my favourite thing... I guess I could take some picture tonight of what it looks like right now
...darn!  I wish they had had that option at the store I visited!  I loathe sewing on snaps...it is sooo boring (and obnoxious).  Do they hold as well as sew-on snaps, and do you need any special tools?  I love hammering stuff in, but while installing all the grommets, I made a bunch of little indentations in my apartment's wood floor.   :P  Maybe management won't notice when I leave.   ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 18, 2005 09:25:49 PM
I will have pictures up just as soon as I go to get them developed & scanned; hopefully tomorrow (my birthday!)  Alas the "pirate" photo shoot seems to have fallen through, at least for the time being, so I'm just going to put up what pictures I have.  There are some, but not as many as I'd like, of the process, which may be helpful to those who take on this project.

I've only been sewing for about 4 years, but I took some really intensive classes with some really tough and awesome teachers, and I worked briefly for a tailor, so I got a lot of experience quickly.  I don't feel like this jacket actually requires knowing too many "tricks", though, just the willingness to work hard to get it right.

I got "hammer-in" snaps too, but I ended up getting a pair of plier things to put them in because I kept breaking the hammer-in thing.  That was one of the educational benefits of doing this jacket; I'd never done eyelets and snaps and things, so it was good to learn how.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 19, 2005 11:22:37 AM
pictures!!! :D alright you have to remember that it's not finished ...






Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: missgurle17 on May 19, 2005 11:33:44 AM
Yay, pictures, that looks wonderful... I don't even know what isn't done about it, lol.

<3, Dana


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 19, 2005 11:45:40 AM
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh cathou you are my heroine!!!  That is truly beautiful.  I love how well all the colours you chose came together.  C'est magnifique!!  ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Sad. on May 19, 2005 12:27:48 PM
I found this board rather late and call me stupid but I can't find the link to the design pieces anywhere.

Can you help me?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: bespectacled on May 19, 2005 12:30:19 PM
Oooh Cathou, it looks great! I have been stalking this board forEVER and it's been neat to watch you guys figure it out! I love the stripes, really cool ;D And I can't wait to see when you all finish! Awesome sewalong :D You guys inspired a whole new topic!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 19, 2005 12:43:32 PM
I found this board rather late and call me stupid but I can't find the link to the design pieces anywhere.

Can you help me?

http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html
I also just updated my original post to include the new link, for anyone else who might be looking for the pattern.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Sad. on May 19, 2005 01:03:33 PM
Thank you hun. <3


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: juniperl13 on May 19, 2005 02:36:15 PM
pictures!!! :D alright you have to remember that it's not finished ...

That fucking rocks, as does your pi tattoo. I'm so excited that it's you that has it!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: flrtingwdisaster on May 19, 2005 02:51:29 PM
you guys are cRaZy. i'd never be able to make something like this.  ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 19, 2005 03:30:26 PM
Oh man cathou you beat me to it.  It looks beautiful!!  I forgot to get my pictures developed, curse my stupid eyes.  It looks really hot on you too, I hope you wear it out and make all the boys drool.

I've GOT TO get these pix developed and online!  It's going to be interesting to see the slight variations.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: belleaurora on May 19, 2005 03:57:24 PM
Cathou~!  It's amazing!   :D  I'm with IndividualFrog, it looks hawt on you, you should go out and have fun in it ;)  I can't wait to see everyone else's.  (Since I can't make one, I might as well be amazed by yours, yes?)  <3


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 19, 2005 08:13:37 PM
Thanks everyone for your kind comments.

That fucking rocks, as does your pi tattoo. I'm so excited that it's you that has it!

Haha!! Thank you very much.

Oh man cathou you beat me to it. It looks beautiful!! I forgot to get my pictures developed, curse my stupid eyes. It looks really hot on you too, I hope you wear it out and make all the boys drool.
It already makes my boyfriend drool wich thinks it looks pretty hot done up the runway way. ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 19, 2005 09:13:38 PM
Wow!  I can't wait until I start mine.  You should post it on showstudio!!  Great job!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: junquette on May 19, 2005 09:33:52 PM
wow cothou that is great!
It looks great on you and I do see all the little pattern pieces that created all the guess work!
GREAT JOB LADY


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Zombie_Teeth on May 20, 2005 04:46:21 AM
So frickin' awesome. I want one.. I think I might do this this summer.. in PINSTRIPE. Rahhh. I can't wait to see the others.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: starlene on May 20, 2005 05:22:09 AM
Mad props to you Cathou!!  That is definitely wearable, you did a fantastic job!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 20, 2005 01:13:26 PM
OK here is the jacket, on my friend Z:

http://www.individualfrog.com/jacketz1.jpg
http://www.individualfrog.com/jacketz2.jpg

I am a little unhappy with the diamond pattern created by pure chance on the left side there.  By the time I realized it it was too late and I was out of flag.  Oh well.

Voila l'auteur:
http://www.individualfrog.com/jacketme1.jpg

I will be making a webpage with more pics, and some of the jacket-in-progress, pretty soon, and I'll give y'all the link when I do.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 20, 2005 01:18:37 PM
Ooh la la la la la, John, you are my hero.
Now I have a hero (John) and a heroine (cathou).  Life is good.  ;D

How many flags did you end up using?  I particularly like the diagonal stripes on...hmm, looks like piece 6 or maybe 7....very nice!  I am incredibly inspired to make another one sometime, using Union Jacks and being inspired by you.

I better get my act together and hold up the third corner of this triumvirate!!  *runs off to take photos*


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 20, 2005 01:20:31 PM
ohhhhhhhhhh looks great with the flag!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: QueenbyQuinn on May 20, 2005 04:46:20 PM
oh my goodness individual frog!! i have been watching this post for awhile and i just want to commend you on completing that jacket and making it loook so wonderful! :P


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 21, 2005 10:53:27 PM
I'm pretty sure on the patterns it had the colors each piece should be cut out of so it would make the union jack without using a flag...  Looks HOT though!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 22, 2005 01:01:03 AM
Actually, educo, only the sleeve is cut that way.  So this is the second time you've tried to lecture to those of us who actually know what we're talking about, having actually worked on this jacket.  Trust us, OK?

I used two 3x5' flags, which was plenty.  However, if you want to make it accurate to the pictures in every respect, you have to cut everything on bias relative to the flag pattern, which means it may take more fabric.  As I noted earlier in the thread, I think the good people at Galliano had a fabric with a Union Jack print at a 45 degree angle.

Are you guys still planning on making a detachable long right sleeve?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 22, 2005 07:31:36 AM
Are you guys still planning on making a detachable long right sleeve?

I'm going to make one, although with the weather getting warmer I don't feel an immediate need for it.  I'm going to save my extra scraps of fabric and make one later on, when it gets a bit too chilly to wear it with only one sleeve.

Of course, this all brings up the question of where to wear such a garment...I don't feel safe wearing it anywhere that there will be food or smoke.  That rules out most evenings on the town.  I've been wondering if I could use something like Scotchguard to protect it at least a bit from errant water droplets or other stain-makers.  What do you guys think - would spraying it with Scotchguard be a huge mistake?  There must be some product out there that is designed to protect garments, right?  But I've never heard of one...

I've only been sewing for a couple years, never taken any classes, just learnt from my mom and by playing around (which means I don't know all the fancy sewing terms and such), but do you think I could do it?
I think the main thing that this jacket requires (beyond a good understanding of how a garment is made, how to read a pattern, how to interface, line, set sleeves, etc.) is a huge amount of patience and the willingness to persevere even when you are completely confused.  As we've all said, it's been really fun to sew these jackets but it's also been incredibly irritating from time to time.  I've ripped countless seams, and I know that Individual_Frog said the same thing at one point.  There are many times when you'll be staring at the photo for hours, trying to deduce how in the world certain pieces fit together.  I've sewn plenty of garments from commercial patterns with direction sheets (Vogue, Simplicity, Burda, Butterick, etc.) and sewing this jacket was a completely different experience.  A great (and challenging) experience, but very very different.
I'm certainly not saying this to dissuade you (or anybody else who is thinking about making one), just to give you a heads-up!  Good luck if you decide to make it, and remember to enjoy the process, not just the finished result.  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 23, 2005 03:54:56 PM
http://www.livejournal.com/users/enigmania/8609.html  This is pretty good.

Tig, I say go ahead and wear it to a party, and just get it dry-cleaned.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 23, 2005 05:00:22 PM
Hurrah!  My completed jacket:

     

     

I looove it.  My friend who took the photos has been watching me work on it for months.  She said, "Now that you're finally finished, we have to go out so you can show it off!"  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Zombie_Teeth on May 23, 2005 05:18:02 PM
That's amazing and you look awesome in it. Radddddddd.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 23, 2005 05:53:02 PM
Yay!  It looks fantastic!  Ladies, we've done some good work here.  It's been a real pleasure.  I'm going to go start a show-off thread on Completed Projects, OK?  Then we'll be famous.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 23, 2005 06:29:49 PM
https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=36525.0  Hurry up and post because I want you guys to be on page 1


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: eunoia on May 24, 2005 12:24:51 AM
hi, i'm new.  (actually, i stumbled upon here courtesy of individualfrog's post on the lj sew_hip community)  upon reading this thread i'm enamoured with this jacket....i'm a tad hesitant to embark on the journey of making it though, as i'm not certain it's going to fit....

is it rude to ask tigralon, cathou, & individualfrog's model what their measurements are?  the jacket seems like it'd be a difficult creature to get an accurate measure of...but if i knew the measurements of humans that it fit, i'd have a better idea of whether or not it'd be a waste of my time to make this.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: starlene on May 24, 2005 05:31:51 AM
Wow, I am so impressed by everyone's version.  They are all truly a master-piece!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 24, 2005 08:41:40 AM
hi, i'm new.  (actually, i stumbled upon here courtesy of individualfrog's post on the lj sew_hip community)  upon reading this thread i'm enamoured with this jacket....i'm a tad hesitant to embark on the journey of making it though, as i'm not certain it's going to fit....

is it rude to ask tigralon, cathou, & individualfrog's model what their measurements are?  the jacket seems like it'd be a difficult creature to get an accurate measure of...but if i knew the measurements of humans that it fit, i'd have a better idea of whether or not it'd be a waste of my time to make this.


I don't mind giving my measurement at all ;)

I have a 26 inch (natural) waist and 32 inch bust


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: junquette on May 24, 2005 08:57:15 AM
wow I am so impressed with the three of you! I have been following along for awhile and even chimed in an idea or two. All three of you have done such a great job seeing this through to completion! Like a few others have said I am proud of you as well!
Each jacket has it's own personality and individuality!
Fabulous!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 24, 2005 11:38:25 PM
Actually, educo, only the sleeve is cut that way.  So this is the second time you've tried to lecture to those of us who actually know what we're talking about, having actually worked on this jacket.  Trust us, OK?


Last time I checked, this was a forum, and because of this reason I am free to post suggestions, NOT lectures, as you are quickly assuming.  I had sad  nothing against the construction of your version of the jacket , yet you still manage to take offense to what I was simply saying...I never took offense to your quick assumption (again) that only the individuals partcipating in the sew along know what they're talking about and the not the many people who are watching the progress, me included.  So if I may correct you, I HAVE draping and patternmaking knowledge, so I DO understand the process that goes into making a complicated garment as this...and because of this knowledge, I would take the extra time to plan out each color on each seam, so that when it's fully constructed, it would fold out  flat to a Union Jack flag... wow, can't we all just get along???


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 25, 2005 04:07:11 AM
Actually, educo, only the sleeve is cut that way.  So this is the second time you've tried to lecture to those of us who actually know what we're talking about, having actually worked on this jacket.  Trust us, OK?


Last time I checked, this was a forum, and because of this reason I am free to post suggestions, NOT lectures, as you are quickly assuming.  I had sad  nothing against the construction of your version of the jacket , yet you still manage to take offense to what I was simply saying...I never took offense to your quick assumption (again) that only the individuals partcipating in the sew along know what they're talking about and the not the many people who are watching the progress, me included.  So if I may correct you, I HAVE draping and patternmaking knowledge, so I DO understand the process that goes into making a complicated garment as this...and because of this knowledge, I would take the extra time to plan out each color on each seam, so that when it's fully constructed, it would fold out  flat to a Union Jack flag... wow, can't we all just get along???

educo, what IndividualFrog was saying is that as the pattern pieces were drawn by Galliano (and posted on Showstudio), if you were to cut different pieces from different solid colours, you would get a jacket of large solid colour-blocks, but not the "Union Jack" pattern that was on the original jackets (and IndividualFrog's).  When we all started this project, we also thought it was just solid fabrics cut to form the design - check out the early pages of this thread and you'll see our posts about this issue.  It wasn't until later that we concluded he had used fabric printed with a Union Jack pattern (and on the bias).

(It would theoretically be possible to sew this design into the jacket with solid fabrics, but only by dissecting each pattern piece into smaller pieces, with some originally large pieces getting cut up into 6 or more little slivers.  In the same way, you could theoretically make a striped skirt by sewing together hundreds of long narrow strips of black fabric and white fabric, but it would be simpler to just buy fabric with the black & white stripes woven in.  This is what Galliano did - he chose to use fabric pre-woven with the pattern, and drew his pattern pieces accordingly.)

If you look carefully at the pdf and the Showstudio photos, you'll see what we mean.  You're correct that a few pieces are marked with a colour (in french), but those are the pieces to the sleeve, which is the only part of the jacket sewn with solid-colour fabrics.  I'm sure that IndividualFrog wasn't trying to offend you, just to clarify this detail.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 25, 2005 06:05:33 AM
hi, i'm new.  (actually, i stumbled upon here courtesy of individualfrog's post on the lj sew_hip community)  upon reading this thread i'm enamoured with this jacket....i'm a tad hesitant to embark on the journey of making it though, as i'm not certain it's going to fit....

is it rude to ask tigralon, cathou, & individualfrog's model what their measurements are?  the jacket seems like it'd be a difficult creature to get an accurate measure of...but if i knew the measurements of humans that it fit, i'd have a better idea of whether or not it'd be a waste of my time to make this.


I don't mind giving my measurement at all ;)

I have a 26 inch (natural) waist and 32 inch bust

And I have a 26 inch waist and 34 inch bust.  For both of us, we just made the pattern as Galliano drew it, and it fit us both perfectly.  So if you're close to those measurements, it should fit you (although I can say from fitting mine that a bust larger than 34" would be a real squeeze).  But you're right - there was absolutely no way to accurately guess the size before making it, so it was really a leap of faith that all that work wouldn't be wasted!  I guess it was meant to be.  ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: eunoia on May 25, 2005 08:03:03 PM
Thank you both very much.  It was my 34" of bust that I was worried about...so...I guess this is my new summer project, once I manage to get my printer working.  (though, it's going to be considerably less of a mystery after reading this thread which I'm very happy exists.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: juniperl13 on May 26, 2005 12:10:13 AM
Damn! I obviously got here a bit too late because now tigralon's photobucket bandwidth has been exceeded and I can't see her lovely finished jacket. :(


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 26, 2005 08:32:39 AM
Damn! I obviously got here a bit too late because now tigralon's photobucket bandwidth has been exceeded and I can't see her lovely finished jacket. :(

Oh my goodness, enough people have checked out my jacket that I actually exceeded my bandwith??  Crazy!
Well, I just made a backup gallery here:  http://tigralon.tripod.com/galliano_jacket/
It's not ideal because you have to actually go there to view the pictures, but it's better than nothing, at least until I can find somewhere that gives me more (free) bandwith than photobucket.  Anybody have any suggestions?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on May 26, 2005 08:48:25 AM
Oh my goodness, enough people have checked out my jacket that I actually exceeded my bandwith??  Crazy!
Well, I just made a backup gallery here:  http://tigralon.tripod.com/galliano_jacket/
It's not ideal because you have to actually go there to view the pictures, but it's better than nothing, at least until I can find somewhere that gives me more (free) bandwith than photobucket.  Anybody have any suggestions?

I use craftster's picture hosting (https://www.craftster.org/pictures/)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: juniperl13 on May 26, 2005 04:27:55 PM
I really don't mind clicking the link. Thank you, tigralon! It looks spectacular and I love the pants you have on with it. I'm a sucker for anything resembling pinstripes.  :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 27, 2005 05:46:57 AM
I use craftster's picture hosting (https://www.craftster.org/pictures/)

Sweeet...how could I have not known that existed?  My love for Craftster increases every day.

I really don't mind clicking the link. Thank you, tigralon! It looks spectacular and I love the pants you have on with it. I'm a sucker for anything resembling pinstripes. :)

Oh, thanks!  Yeah, I love those jeans - they're my "pirate jeans" and I wear them whenever I'm feeling swashbuckling.  So of course I had to wear them with my new pirate jacket.  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 29, 2005 02:37:51 AM
Oh wow, the new downloadable pattern will be by Junya Watanabe......I am extremely excited at the prospect.  His Fall 2002 collection was probably the one that was most meaningful in my life.  I can't wait to see what it is, the 'preview' picture is too tiny to really see.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 29, 2005 03:38:13 AM
Oh wow, the new downloadable pattern will be by Junya Watanabe......I am extremely excited at the prospect.
Sweeeet - it's a dress!!  I love all these Showstudio jacket patterns (Galliano, Yamamoto, McQueen), but I'm really jazzed at the idea of mixing it up a little with a designer dress.  :D

His Fall 2002 collection was probably the one that was most meaningful in my life.
Is it archived online somewhere?  I want to see photos.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 29, 2005 12:34:01 PM
Is it archived online somewhere? I want to see photos.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2002RTW/complete/thumb/JNWATNBE

There used to be bigger & better pictures on firstview.  The backs of all these dresses are as beautiful as the fronts.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: educo on May 29, 2005 12:49:29 PM
Oh wow, the new downloadable pattern will be by Junya Watanabe......I am extremely excited at the prospect.  His Fall 2002 collection was probably the one that was most meaningful in my life.  I can't wait to see what it is, the 'preview' picture is too tiny to really see.

I read that it will be from his 2005-6 collection. see below...i can't believe we are getting this dress!!!

We are utterly delighted to announce that as part of the Liberty Ross 'Dress Me Up, Dress Me Down' project, the brilliant Japanese designer Junya Watanabe has offered to contribute a garment pattern from his forthcoming Autumn/Winter 2005-6 (not-yet-in-the-shops) collection. Picked out by Liberty Ross from Jonathan Kaye's draft selection for the live event at the end of next month, the pattern is for a wool and pvc dress (pictured above). The pattern will be available (free of charge) for you, the viewer, to make up in advance of the event (urging you to engage with the draping and cutting techniques of the designers represented forces you to enter into the spirit of the coming season, no?). We expect it to be launched in 2-3 weeks. Forgive me for gushing, but Watanabe has been a heinous omission from our contributors list and this is a longstanding personal aspiration fulfilled. Hurray


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: juniperl13 on May 29, 2005 02:40:26 PM
Ohhhhhh I am soooo stoooked for this! I might actually join in this time. :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on May 29, 2005 05:48:09 PM
Maybe I'm jumping the gun a little, but I figured if we were going to start talking about the Wonderful Watanabe Dress ;D, we might as well get the official thread started and keep all the relevant discussions in one place.  So everyone come join!

Watanabe Dress Sewalong: https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=37269.0

IndividualFrog & cathou, I expect to see you there with bells on.  :D  And IndividualFrog, thanks for the link to the past collection!  He's incredible...I can't wait to have enough time to really examine the photos.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: noodlz on June 19, 2005 09:28:48 PM
dood,
that is sick! can't belive that you did it, were there any pattern involved?! or you just went off and freestyled?!
thumbs up girly


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Zombie_Teeth on June 19, 2005 09:56:24 PM
dood,
that is sick! can't belive that you did it, were there any pattern involved?! or you just went off and freestyled?!
thumbs up girly

hahahaha.. read the thread.. and you'll understand..


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Digsy LaRaspberry on June 27, 2005 03:08:34 PM
Goodness! That jacket is simply too amazing! Kudos to all... the second I reached page 23 I decided that I must try it.

... Going to get fabric now....


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Playingwithpaint on July 06, 2005 12:13:17 AM
Amazing! Everyones' jackets are absolutely stunning!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Libertine11 on September 23, 2005 06:11:28 PM
Wow Cathou Jadore !!! Cest parfait! Je viens de decouvrir ce site et jembarque pour le jacket Galliano!! Comment a tu imprimer le patron? Jai manquer un boute! I love this thread, I am going to make this jacket,... atleast I wil try!! The tips are great and the jacket is stunning!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on September 23, 2005 08:47:12 PM
Wow Cathou Jadore !!! Cest parfait! Je viens de decouvrir ce site et jembarque pour le jacket Galliano!! Comment a tu imprimer le patron? Jai manquer un boute! I love this thread, I am going to make this jacket,... atleast I wil try!! The tips are great and the jacket is stunning!

Merci beaucoup!! Si je me rapelle bien, j'ai imprimer le patron à partir d'illustrator, je crois qu'il est écrit comment faire sur une des premières pages...
Faire ce jacket est une expérience très enrichissante! Si t'as besoin d'aide t'as juste à demander!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on September 25, 2005 05:11:40 AM
Cathou, did you ever get pictures of the finished product?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on September 25, 2005 07:33:21 PM
Cathou, did you ever get pictures of the finished product?

Actually I never quite finished it.....  :-[


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on September 26, 2005 07:14:40 AM
Well finish it already!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: little-pea on November 10, 2005 04:28:38 PM
wow i havent returned to this thread in ages!

but after rooting thru all the pages, im quite pleased! i've been wanting to do this forever but was unsure of its size... i have a 32 bust and a 22 natural waist... maybe i'll modify it :(

however, i was wondering if someone could email me the download. when i go to the link, there's a link right across the pattern that says i need adobe 5.0 in order to dl it, but i have 7.0  ???

or maybe fellow craftsters could assist me :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: little-pea on November 10, 2005 04:31:27 PM
ok this proves im only 80% moron.
i was clicking wrong. and now i have um.... a lot of copies on my desktop.
this shall be my project over the xmas break


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on November 10, 2005 07:29:41 PM
ok this proves im only 80% moron.
i was clicking wrong. and now i have um.... a lot of copies on my desktop.
this shall be my project over the xmas break

Have fun!  Take your time and enjoy the process.  I've been thinking I'd like to do it again sometime...  ^_^


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: girlwonder on November 15, 2005 05:40:15 PM
holy moly you guys! that jacket is spectacular! all of you did amazing jobs and I'm incredibly jealous that I  don't own one of those!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: star69 on December 03, 2005 05:24:53 PM
All i have to say is WOW. I saw the jacket, and I sad, that would be cool to make. I'm tempted to try this as a project. Is there any suggestions for what kind of fabric I could use? And are those eyelets that they used, or snaps? If I decide to, I'd gladly take pictures.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mandyvigilante on December 04, 2005 08:03:45 PM
gosh wow you guys that turned out amazing.  i wish i could sew or knew anything at all about following patterns, or anything.  really very cool.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on December 12, 2005 07:28:11 AM
All i have to say is WOW. I saw the jacket, and I sad, that would be cool to make. I'm tempted to try this as a project. Is there any suggestions for what kind of fabric I could use? And are those eyelets that they used, or snaps? If I decide to, I'd gladly take pictures.

There are both eyelets and snaps on the jacket.  It's all marked and detailed on the pattern.  I used nylon flags and fairly heavy red, white, and blue cotton, but I think anything medium weight would work fine.  Someone suggested denim which I think would look amazing. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: star69 on December 12, 2005 01:30:03 PM
Thanks a bunch! I'll definetly consider it. I'll keep you posted.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: S.C.K. on December 12, 2005 02:06:31 PM
I am in awe of your skill and inspired. I might attempt the kacket over the x-mas hols. How long did it take you? Bytheway, IT IS TOTALLY STUNNING!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: jets_to_july on December 20, 2005 09:28:21 PM
Oh wow, this jacket is awesome!! Tigralon, IndividualFrog and cathou, you've all done wonderful jobs on it! They look so cool  :D  I've now been inspired by all of your awesomeness and would love to try one out for myself! ^__^  <3


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: eternal_ukyou on February 04, 2006 10:11:07 AM
Wow! I'm brave but not THAT brave! Just the pattern it self frightens me to tears LOL its beautiful when its done, i must say that, but holy... you are all very very brave for figureing that one out!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: geckochan on May 22, 2006 10:56:24 PM
Wow, I'm so amazed to come across a thread for that mind-boggling pattern! And now if I ever wanted to make it, my life would be much easier! However, I was wondering - since I'm nowhere near the right size for this pattern, what do you think would happen if I tried to print it at a larger scale? In my head it seems like a good idea, since all the pieces would still be in proportion to eachother (I guess the only problem is that it would be bigger *everywhere* so would be longer, more broad-shouldered, etc. as well) - but it would be impossible to resize the actual pieces themselves! Anyone have any thoughts on this?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 30, 2006 08:14:11 AM
Like you say, it would make everything bigger, which would cause a bunch of problems, even if we disregard sizing weirdness.  For example, the zipper lengths written on the pattern would be wrong, the grosgrain would have to be weird widths.  Resizing this pattern would be quite a challenge, I think  :(


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: geckochan on June 05, 2006 09:34:18 PM
Yeah, it probably would be a bit much to attempt. Thanks for your thoughts.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Chinorlz on June 12, 2006 08:40:56 AM
Yeah, it probably would be a bit much to attempt. Thanks for your thoughts.

I have recently started this project myself... just finished the muslin version of it to see how everything fits and I began cutting the fabric last night for the real deal.

My plan is to make a version that is exactly the Galliano version first and then with that understood, rework the jacket to be wearable by a guy (me hehe). I thought about it and the modifications would have to be sort of done 'on the fly' if you will. The torso will have to be widened, lengthened and instead of that puffy right shoulder, I'm going to put on a right long sleeve that will just be a mirror image of the left sleeve.

Proportion changes are definitely doable as someone on here made the left sleeve wider since they couldn't even bend their arm in the original pattern's.

Since the jacket is a corset style, adding fabric in the same manner as what's already there (vertical strips of it) is feasible, but I definitely think doing one precisely to galliano's pattern first IN FULL would help out tremendously.

On a side note, the fabric I'm using for the jacket is a black thick-ish nylon almost like the kind Prada uses for their purses. What kind of stitch should I use for this? The cut edges of the fabric tend to fray extremely easily. A tight zig zag stich would be the best for this fabric?

Thanks guys! I hope to be able to post my first jacket on here by the end of summer!

-A


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: x_smartie on June 20, 2006 01:08:14 PM
I am in awe that you three worked out this jacket.

I wont fit into the stupid thing but I'm going to /attempt/ to make it anyway, maybe I'll be able to find a skinny friend that'll want it. I was considering resizing it, but Im still pretty much an amature and I think just figuring out how to put together the mock up will be hard enough for me ;) But, I've got a whole summer ahead of me and nothing to do now my exams are all over, so I now have a project to keep me occupied. Wont my mother be happy.

Thanks so much for all the helpful notes as well, they are going to be invaluable :)

I have a question: When printing out the pattern, is there any way to make it so it doesnt print them in brown and just prints the lines, because I dont even want to imagine how much ink it would take if it was all brown. I havent worked out a better way yet, so Im going to attempt drawing round them all in psp so I just have black lines...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: raining_dreams on June 20, 2006 08:21:40 PM
 i think i might try this. i have no idea why, and i dont think it will work, but i need a challenge for over the summer (and into the year too  ::))
 i just need to read through all of the pages and try to figure it out.
 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on June 22, 2006 08:04:02 AM
II have a question: When printing out the pattern, is there any way to make it so it doesnt print them in brown and just prints the lines, because I dont even want to imagine how much ink it would take if it was all brown. I havent worked out a better way yet, so Im going to attempt drawing round them all in psp so I just have black lines...

I printed mine in grayscale on draft settings, it didn't take near as much ink as I would have thought. If your really motivated you can open the pdf in Illustrator (which I did anyway in order to print it) and retrace every piece with just a basic black line on a different layer, and then just print that layer.
The painful part is to assemble all those sheet of paper together.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: danfreek22 on July 07, 2006 06:12:07 PM
 :o those are amazing! great job to all of you!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cascioli on August 28, 2006 02:29:07 PM
I just read this whole thread. I'm in total awe. I really want this jacket, but I don't know if I can make one happen.

Just a few questions; I didn't see if they were answered already...

1) could you estimate the yardage for the exterior & lining?
2) the pattern looks like there are 12 pieces for the long sleeve, but none of the finished ones look like they are made up of this many pieces. Is that correct?
3) what length zipper did you use for the sleeve?
4) was the seam allowance only 1/4"?
5) someone mentioned the pattern wasn't at 100% size. what percentage did you use to print out the pages?

I'm so tempted to do this...

thanks!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on August 29, 2006 12:12:37 AM
Hi cascioli, I'm tight for time so I can't answer everything; I'm on vacation right now.  In about a week I'll be back home and can answer all your questions (umm maybe) but for now, at least: I'm the only one I think who used the multi-piece sleeve, mine was cut from three different color fabrics to make the Union-Jack colors & pattern.  If you're not making a Union Jack jacket, you don't need to use all the little bitty pattern pieces.

Also, someone's pattern was printing small but that was a mistake on their side; the pattern is the right size.  And the seam allowance is about 1/2", but I think it might really be in the METRIC SYSTEM.

Good luck!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cascioli on August 29, 2006 05:31:11 AM
Thank you for the reply! And for any other info you might have later! ;)
 
I am so determined to have this jacket. I love Galliano so much. I dreamt about it all last night.  :D

-diana


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cathou on August 29, 2006 10:15:02 AM
Hey there, to answer some of your question, I used about 1.5 meters (yes I work in metric) of fabric for both (maybe a little bit less). The zipper I used was a 50cm zipper. Seam allowances were 1.5cm. And for printing instructions you can look earlier in the topic (https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=28780.msg244952#msg244952) I already covered the subject.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cascioli on August 29, 2006 01:16:21 PM
Thank you Cathou!

Meters & yards are very close, so that's very helpful. ;o) So that's 1.5 for both the lining & outer fabric? I'm trying to find some nice fabric on sale. I found silk duponi for $8/yard online, but that might be too fancy for me in the long run.

I am able to tile large pages with my version of Acrobat, so outputting isn't a problem. I just wanted to make sure the PDF had all the pattern pieces at 100%!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: katie_ramone9 on August 29, 2006 05:44:47 PM
what type of fabric would you all reccomend for this jacket?  ive been wanting to make it ever since i first found this thread (around a couple monthes ago) but im kinda scared to even attempt it.  also, if i took this to kinkos could they print it out on big paper or would it be better to have it on multiple 8x11 pages?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on August 30, 2006 03:12:04 AM
I made mine out of nylon flags and cotton lining.  I think basically any fabric that gathers niceishly would be good.  I'm still intrigued by the idea of denim.  You will have to be wise about your interfacing/self combination choice.

If you get it printed big at Kinko's, it will save you a lot of taping grief.  But it will be very expensive.  If you do it, make 1000% sure they are printing it at the right size.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: katie_ramone9 on August 30, 2006 06:11:43 AM
You will have to be wise about your interfacing/self combination choice.

what exactly do you mean by that? Is there a certain kind of interfacing i should use?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on September 05, 2006 07:33:03 PM
I mean that depending on what fabric you use, you may need to use heavier or lighter interfacing in different parts of the jacket.  Like the front is supposed to be kind of stiff, so if you are using a very thin fabric you might need to use a heavier interfacing. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: m*babylon on September 22, 2006 05:15:29 PM
tigralon, if i had to be really honest with you, and i think here that i do...i really have to point out that i totally want your version more than i want galliano's.  i'm just saying.

holy crap that's hot.
a*


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: SissyRadford on November 04, 2006 08:02:38 PM
Oh my! I *sew* want to make this jacket. Is anyone still working on it?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on November 05, 2006 04:46:16 AM
I don't know if anyone is actually working on it, but I sure hope to see another one of these someday.  So many people write "I'm totally going to make this" and that's their only post on craftster, ever.  Don't give up!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Digsy LaRaspberry on November 08, 2006 09:22:12 AM
I had sworn to myself that I *am* going to make this. And I will, once I have the time and money for sewing... Since I made that promise, I had moved out and started into University.

But looking over this stuff again makes me feel so...

incompetent.

 :-[


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: tigralon on November 08, 2006 10:29:49 AM
tigralon, if i had to be really honest with you, and i think here that i do...i really have to point out that i totally want your version more than i want galliano's.  i'm just saying.

holy crap that's hot.
a*

Thanks so much!  I didn't realize until today that I had notification turned off for this topic, so I just discovered your post.

I really love my jacket and have worn it several times since finishing it.  I think I'll make another in the next year or two, but first I've got several other projects waiting in the queue.   :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Midnightoak on February 20, 2007 07:53:48 AM
I applaud the time and effort it must have taken to make these. Plus they all look fantastic. I would totally wear this if I had one.

I've downloaded the pattern to peek at, but I won't hold my breath as I would first have to figure out how to enlarge it for a roughly 87 cm (34 inch) waist. Not to mention all the other projects on my back burner...



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: icanreadncount on June 04, 2007 09:32:30 PM
Well, now that school's out, and as long as I have an employee discount at the fabric store, I'll definately be giving this a try.  I have a tendency to get very frustrated and give up on complicated projects, but I've been sewing for a long time now, and this thread seems to address many issues already.  Once I finish the dress pattern I'm working on, I'll try it, although I'll definately have to adjust it, I'm much larger than the model in the picture.
Oh, well.  Lead me to the cheap muslin!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: cascioli on June 11, 2007 06:24:22 AM
I never did get around to this! After looking at the version with the Union Jack on it, I'm tempted to try one similarly, but using the Maryland state flag (http://www.50states.com/flag/mdflag.htm). The flag is made up of really cool patterns. And I'm from Maryland. ;)

Do you guys think that would look ok? I found nylon flags on ebay for about $4 each, and I figured I'll need about 2 to get the areas of the flag that I want. I'll probably buy a few yards of a moderately heavy black cotton twill, and something soft to line it. ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Randommarble on June 11, 2007 12:33:43 PM
I've finally started scaling up the design (I printed on 3 A4 sheets because I didn't think my mum would allow me to print 50). I've noticed that the sleeve pieces have two pattern pieces for each piece (ie. two copies of 1C) , so do I need the two copies?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: WIPs on June 11, 2007 08:07:02 PM
Wow, that is absolutely amazing! :o


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on June 16, 2007 05:04:18 AM
The Maryland State Flag looks totally crazy and Galliano.  I say go for it.

If I remember correctly there are two copies of each sleeve piece, one without seam allowance.  I never figured out any reason for the allowance-less ones.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Randommarble on June 17, 2007 12:41:11 AM
OK, thanks Individual Frog


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: VintageMeGood on September 17, 2007 03:00:04 AM
Wow, who knows if this post will even be seen, since the last post made was in June, lol, but it's worth a try.

I'm going to seem like a total cop-out here, but does anyone have, perhaps, a diagram?  Some nice, clear tips, maybe?  What attaches to what?  :-[

I've burned my eyes out scouring the board, and I've started to glaze over a bit.  Okay, more than a bit.

I want this jacket so bad, and I'm generally pretty good at figuring out patterns, but this has got me so frustrated that I'm ready to cry.  Maybe I'm just too much of a novice, and it certainly doesn't help that my machine hates me.

Anyway, someone who's made the jacket - HELP!  Please?  xD


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on September 17, 2007 08:52:35 AM
Hey!  Don't panic!  Did you read this whole thread?  Everything we know is here.  Did you print out the pieces yet?  It's much easier to see once they're in front of you and you can move them around.

I don't want to sound like I'm scolding you, but look towards the beginning of the thread.  Go step by step.

I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have, too.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: VintageMeGood on September 17, 2007 05:02:26 PM
Hey!  Don't panic!  Did you read this whole thread?  Everything we know is here.  Did you print out the pieces yet?  It's much easier to see once they're in front of you and you can move them around.

I don't want to sound like I'm scolding you, but look towards the beginning of the thread.  Go step by step.

I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have, too.

Yeh, I've read almost every page.  I stayed up all night reading the posts, lol.  I've tried, like, eight times to print out the pattern using a different technique each time - including the ones mentioned here - but I just can't seem to nail it, and I'm running out of ink and paper.   :(

I think I can do this with a little help if I could just get the darn thing printed out.  And I've tried arranging the pieces from the failed print-jobs, and it wasn't so bad...I'll probably need a little help in some areas.  Many of the posts have been mega-helpful, but some things just went right over my head.  I'm afraid I might be too much of a novice to tackle this on my own.  :-X


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on September 17, 2007 07:45:33 PM
Maybe you could try Kinko's?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: VintageMeGood on September 18, 2007 05:56:24 AM
It definitely seems like I'm going to have to, which sucks because all my money goes to bills, books for college, and my baby, and there's not much left to pay Kinko's $18 to print this for me.  ::)

Eh.  I'll probably scrounge it up and have it done anyway.  I'm tired of messing around.   :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on May 19, 2008 02:32:18 PM
Well it's, what, three years later, but I finally got the "in-progress" pictures uploaded...maybe they will be of some interest.  They're not really tutorial-style, so I don't know if they're of any use to someone making this, but maybe?

We start with a bazillion pattern pieces, taking over my room:

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/messy.png

Next step is a muslin test.

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/muslin.png

Then we must cut it out of the flag.

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/flag.png

Now we have many pieces, ready for sewing (sort of.)

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/pieces.png

The flap on the back is completed.

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/flap.png

The "basque dos" is constructed.

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/basque.png

I am sewing at a feverish pace.

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/sewing.png

The lining and snaps are all done.  (You can see how weird the shape is when this thing is laid flat in this picture.)

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/lining.png

Finally done.

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/front.png

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/side.png

http://www.individualfrog.com/galliano/back.png

And there you have it.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: timid_gothica on May 19, 2008 02:39:36 PM
that's absolutely fantastic! I just can't get over the design.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: animegirlie on May 19, 2008 04:41:18 PM
holy cow - I've been staring at that thing for years drooling - I can't believe someone finished it! GOOOD JOB!!!!! I love that jacket


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: pandaz on May 19, 2008 05:34:56 PM
amazing



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: eternallyeve on May 19, 2008 05:41:39 PM
Oh dear Lord, congratulations! How you managed that is entirely beyond me. I harbour the secret suspicion that that pattern was Galliano's private joke and never expected anyone to decifer it :P.

Wow again, you did an amazing job.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: little button on May 20, 2008 08:15:34 PM
Thanks for the photo updates.  I went through the post over several days earlier this year in admiration of you 3 guys.

I have been considering making this, but with an Australian flag for when I eventually have the ceremony for citizenship.  It does feel a bit wrong that my first Aussie flag I intend to cut up into little bits :o


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: fairies-in-disguise on May 23, 2008 10:54:42 AM
this has to  be the most amazing jacket i've ever seen!

IndividualFrog, cathou and tigralon, you have to be the most amazing and talent "craftsters" ever!

i think this may become my summer project... once my christmas dance dress is done...

i was thinking of using the St Andrew's Saltire - the Scottish flag - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Scotland instead of the Union Jack, how do you think it would turn out?

again - amazing job all three of you! :D

Oh dear Lord, congratulations! How you managed that is entirely beyond me. I harbour the secret suspicion that that pattern was Galliano's private joke and never expected anyone to decifer it :P.

and I am so in agreement with that ^

I only found this thread today, and after finding the pattern almost ran from my computer! it looks terrifying! but, i am determined to give it ago!

sorry for rambling on so much....


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: MinorPunk56 on June 12, 2008 12:57:43 PM
Dude, I want to make one.

Really badly.

Did you write up the instructions?
EDIT:  Did anyone save a PDF for printing at home on 8.5 x 11?  Or is there a rediculously kind person out there who saved their pattern and would be willing to send it to me(I'd pay for shipping and I'd give it back when I'm done!)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on June 18, 2008 02:45:29 PM
This thread is all the instructions there are.  If you have any problems you can ask!

I used the PDF that's on the site and printed it at home on regular printer paper, it should work fine.  In the early pages there is some discussion of how we printed it out.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: MinorPunk56 on June 19, 2008 06:26:38 AM
This thread is all the instructions there are.  If you have any problems you can ask!

I used the PDF that's on the site and printed it at home on regular printer paper, it should work fine.  In the early pages there is some discussion of how we printed it out.
yeah, i saw. So  how many page  was it to print?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on June 24, 2008 04:42:09 PM
I don't remember exactly, but it was a gazillion.  The cutting out and taping together took a long time.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: mikan on June 30, 2008 01:35:46 PM
minorpunk56,
it's about 70 pages, 75 at most... It took me an evening to print and tape them all together though, so it's probably worth using commercial printing if you want to save yourself some time!
Oh, I also set it to lightest amount of ink and grayscale using only black ink; that will save you some ink too. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: zowiewoahie on June 21, 2009 09:27:48 AM
These jackets are so amazingly insane. I love them. I want to print my own and try it, but I know it will never fit me. So I think using my pattern drafting skills I will need to set to work and make my own inspired piece. But, damn, how I do love Galliano!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: chelsea anne on January 20, 2010 05:19:29 PM
That's right, I'm doin' it.

If you're unsure what I'm talking about:
That's the original, but I'll bet the majority of you know it more from this: https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=28780.0 (https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=28780.0). It's been five years since those brave souls first had a go, and I've always meant to do my own - originally, I postponed doing it because as is, that damn jacket will never fit me. I'm a much better tailor and corsetiere now than I was then, so I think the time has come...to start the John Galliano Pirate Jacket Sewalong Part II.

Anyone with me? I'm planning on doing it anyway, and I'd love to have anyone else who's up for the challenge join me - for motivational purposes, and so we can help each other!!

Links to get you all sortsa motivated:
The Pattern http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html (http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html)
Look, other people did it! http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html (http://www.showstudio.com/projects/unf/unf_start.html)
Absolutley amazing - someone's done a tech drawing of HOW IT GOES TOGETHER. http://www.flickr.com/photos/myblackrainbow/sets/72157600181005967/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/myblackrainbow/sets/72157600181005967/)


So...my muslin's bought, and I'm collecting bits and pieces of what I'll need for the final project. I'm just waiting for my financial aid money to come in so I can afford to print the beast of a pattern out. You (yes, you!) should join me!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Knitting_Chemistry on January 20, 2010 06:03:46 PM
Wow that is seriously cool! I wish I could do this but unfortunately it would never fit me and I can't sew...still I might have to figure it out because that is pretty darn awesome!! I hope it goes well, good luck! :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 20, 2010 08:25:17 PM
oh man....you tempt me...im gonna give this some considerable thought...it looks WAY outta my league but looking at how it turns out, chances are you couldn't tell if it was slightly messy...im gonna take a look at some fabrics. how do you plan on printing out the pattern? ill try to do it with you!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on January 21, 2010 07:55:26 AM
I can't wait to see your results!  If you have any questions I'll be happy to help if I can.  がんばって!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: chelsea anne on January 21, 2010 12:26:22 PM
alli.illektro: I just saw your prep school blazer, and I thought "man, I wish that girl would make a Galliano Jacket with me". So yeah. You should. Because that's almost weird.

Printing-wise, I'm thinking I'll have a copy shop print me two or possibly three copies of the pattern. One to keep for reference whilst I figure this whole thing out (I'll probably hang it on the wall), one to cut for my muslin, and one that I can alter for the final jacket, once I get the muslin all figured out. It depends on how expensive one copy is. I'll do some pricing for that tomorrow.

See, that thing is not going to fit me by about four inches all over, according to people who've finished theirs. So I've got to put in some extra panels somewhere in the jacket to enlarge it a bit. The arms (or arm, rather, since there's really only one, but I think I'll make two) are probably also too small  for me, so I'm hoping to alter the sides in some way to make it both larger around, and have a larger arm hole so's I can have a wider sleeve. Something to do with piece 5, I think. It's like a puzzle. Made of fabric. That you can wear! So like...the best puzzle ever.

Anybody else out there interested? It'll be fun, I promise! And IndividualFrog has made one of these, and if he's around to help then it should be much easier, I'm thinking.



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: just-fee on January 21, 2010 01:24:17 PM
I'm really interested in this too but I'm a uk16 and this pattern seems TINY! Also I think it might be way above my skill level and I would want to do it justice if I were going to make it.
Would you consider doing a blog jacket along....or taking a pic of each step as you go, since I haven't seen one on this jacket and it would be invaluable!!
Best of luck!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on January 21, 2010 03:28:55 PM
A blog post with some advice (http://blogfullofjelly.blogspot.com/2009/08/ultimate-challenge.html).  Also, this lady (http://johngallianopiratejacket.blogspot.com/) e-mailed me once, and I believe she sized it upwards to fit her, so maybe you could ask her for advice on that.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: chelsea anne on January 21, 2010 04:28:48 PM
Whoa those are awesome. And immensely helpful. I know you said there was a lot of grosgrain involved, but DAMN. That's A LOT of grosgrain. I'm enjoying typing that silent s, so I'm going to type it one more time. Grosgrain.

Also, it just hit me that I really am going to have one of these soon, that I get to wear and be super proud of, and I just can't wait. I want to start it like RIGHT NOW but I don't even have the pattern printed yet! Gah! It's killing me.

just-fee: Oh, there will be pictures. Lots of pictures. In fact, I will add "batteries for camera" to my list of supplies needed for this adventure. I think you should try making your own along with me, though. It can't be impossible to do, and I have this theory that the more prepared I am to do a lot of seam-ripping on a project the smoother it actually goes, so don't be intimidated. You can always tear seams apart and fix as needed. I hate making muslins, but I'll make one for this because I KNOW I'll be making some mistakes. And I'm not sure what the US to UK size comparison is, but I'm a US 8 at the bust, a 12 at the waist and a 16 at the hips, and 14 as far as my arm width is concerned. So yeah, this pattern is in for a major size overhaul. I'd love to see someone else make it larger, too. It looks like it's been done before, so I know it can happen!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 21, 2010 06:11:48 PM
ok so i downloaded the file and just brought it to kinko's to get it printed on their large format printer. its 3 pages and cost about 25.00 to have printed. (or apparently 15.00 at staples)

chelsea anne i know you wanted to have a  few copies printed and tho i think that would be majorly helpful its kinda pricey so i think im just gonna stick with the one and refer to the .pdf for reference. next i need to hit the fabric store...or order up some flags....lol. i think ive got my good friend and fellow craftster numb_carnelian (we met on here!) to do this along with us too..which would be awesome to have someone in real life to consult because sometimes i just cant see things on computers, ya know?

next step: look it over and see what were workin with here...hehe

SOOOO looks like im officially in! i have a cam and can post pics the whole way. :) im SUPER excited. i laid awake all last night trying to run over the tech details in my mind (im kinda obsessive like that but once the wheels start turning its hard to get them to stop!)

and you can just call me 'alli' :)   


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 22, 2010 01:25:06 AM
im gonna try to keep technical drawings and details of the whole process as a guide for others as we go (and because things arent very clear otherwise, to me anyway!)

alright im gonna keep adding details and editing these "maps" of the pattern .pdf as we go. for now, the basics that i know:





red numbers = the main numbered pattern pieces (as far as i can find)
yellow = the pieces you will need if you make the long sleeve out of individual pieces
blue = discard able (doubles of other pieces)
orange pieces = elastic (or grosgrain?) elastic i think.

let me know if we sort anything else out, i will update the 'maps'

tally ho!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: ScrappySue on January 22, 2010 08:06:39 AM
I am impressed that you are even attempting this jacket!
And will be eagerly following your progress, good luck!
S


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Lama Rama on January 22, 2010 10:00:25 AM
Oh god I love this jacket sooooo much. I saw it ages ago on craftster and thought wow I want to make that but I knew I would have no idea how to. I still want to make it but  all I have every sewed before is a skirt and even that didn't go that well (not my fault, I ran out of fabric! So I just made it a bit less full but then it looked totally different to how I wanted it so its banished from my sight!) I really wish I could join you in this but I don't really think that this is a beginner's project  :( Just out of interest does anyone know what size this is (UK if possible) so I know incase i do persuade myself to make this in the future. Damn one thing I hate about uni is a total lack of sewing machines. Oh well roll on Easter. Good Luck!!!! :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on January 22, 2010 02:44:42 PM
Another lover of this jacket here! I'd join in if I had the time/patience/experience to try it but unfortunately I don't. I'll definitely be following along though.

A tip to anyone who wants multiple copies of the pattern: don't forget you can just get one printed then trace as many copies as you need of the pieces you want to play with on some tissue paper/freezer paper/thin interfacing.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: erdbeerblau on January 22, 2010 04:23:36 PM
i'm pretty sure there was a craftalong where they made this jacket …
https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=28780.0 (https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=28780.0)
maybe you've seen it already, but i thought this might help you :)

edit: sorry … i overread that you mentioned this in your first post. i hope you forgive me.

good luck!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: chelsea anne on January 22, 2010 07:01:50 PM
Okay so those orange pattern pieces: All but three (four?) of them have roman numerals on them, and those correspond with lil' bits all around the jacket. Like pattern piece 9 has markings for IV, V, and VI, where d-rings attach, and those match some of the orange pieces. And the others I think are for elastic.

A tip to anyone who wants multiple copies of the pattern: don't forget you can just get one printed then trace as many copies as you need of the pieces you want to play with on some tissue paper/freezer paper/thin interfacing.

Excellent! That's what I'll do. Last night I went ahead and printed out the pattern on three pages to hang on the wall, and mark the hell out of it and such. Like which ones are sleeves and doubles and what's a facing piece, and I wish I had it with me now because that technical drawing you've got going is pretty sweet. In fact if I could get it to work I'd just print the whole thing out at home but it's not happening for me. So! Only one expensive copy, which means I get to spend more monies on fabric. Win.

Other than that I've done nothing else for this jacket for two days, so I feel like my progress is going super slow. I did go fabric shopping, though, and I wish I could find a link for this Alexander Henry cotton I think I'll use for the interior, but the closest thing is this: http://www.ahfabrics.com/product_details.php?p_id=487 (http://www.ahfabrics.com/product_details.php?p_id=487). Same colorway, just less busy, and with tattooed sumo wrestlers and geisha.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 22, 2010 07:10:33 PM
neat! im working on cutting everything out of my test fabric and seeing where that goes. im using an old bed sheet instead of muslin. works fine. so far its been helpful to transfer as many of the markings that are on the pattern pieces ONTO the muslin with pen as possible. lookin a lot easier then we thought so far! im feeling hopeful.

and tho i want the union jack part of me wants to do a sort of irridescent ice blue... ill post fabric picks after i go shopping!

chelsea, your lining fabric looks sweet, whatcha got going for the shell?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: hopskip09 on January 22, 2010 09:33:48 PM
I remember watching that all unfold here on Craftster in awe. I was like, jr. high. Man, I grew up on here! I'm about to begin my second semester on college!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: just-fee on January 23, 2010 10:46:31 AM
I'm getting a bit sucked in by it all, might print it all out and just give it a damn go :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 23, 2010 01:39:06 PM
I'm getting a bit sucked in by it all, might print it all out and just give it a damn go :)

DO IT! we'll try to make it easier on you. :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: just-fee on January 24, 2010 10:08:45 AM
Well I'm going to see if I can get it printed tomoro for cheap and I have pinstripe rip-stop I can make a tester out of. I've also found a model who it will fit perfectly :)

Reading the other thread they disscussed printing it out on A4 paper....does anyone have the pattern in pdf format done this way?



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: zowiewoahie on January 24, 2010 11:32:54 AM
I adore this jacket. I want to make one, but I don't really want to re size and then try to tailor a coat, for myself. Maybe once I make a plaster mold of my (extremely hourglass, impossible to fit!) figure I would tackle it cuz it's cool as hell! I just don't think I have the tools or I would so be with you!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 24, 2010 03:54:10 PM
I really REALLY don't have the skill to attempt something like this.. but I think I'm going to try it anyway, y'all are inspiring, my boyfriend the tech-freak just bought a large-format printer for a ridiculously low price, and I've got all this fabric that I got while Joann had all red-tag fabrics an extra 50% off, so why not, right?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Emo Penguin Toast on January 24, 2010 06:46:27 PM
i really want to make it.

Im kind of big though...


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 24, 2010 08:37:57 PM
alright guys- i finished my muslin rough draft!





i didnt bother to do the grosgrain appliques on this one, just wanted to make sure i knew where everything went. surprisingly, the pattern pieces are so well marked i found this WAY easier then any commercial pattern i've ever used! i sewed the seams on the outside just so i could see my markings and placements. it actually looks cool highlighting the unique piecing of this jacket.

im not sure i want to do that weird little gathered thing in the middle of the back on the top. its strange. and i like the deep v on the back without it, also i didnt put the flap with the eyelets on the back on the practive version either though i will on the final.

i kept noticing it saying something about "corset back" which confused me at first because as far as i can tell there is no corset-ry in here...so i think maybe thats just a turn of phrase?

one question, whats the deal with that button stand? where does that go? thats my only missing piece!





Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on January 24, 2010 11:41:58 PM
Commercial patterns are a total mystery to me, I hate them.  A real production pattern like this is so much better.

Don't forget to check the original post for your questions!  We wondered about the button stand too.  It goes on the end of the right sleeve.  It buttons to piece #1 (and the basque if you close it 'showstudio style'.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 25, 2010 10:46:51 AM
Wow, I can't believe you've gotten so far already! I'd better get working.. this thing is kinda intimidating. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 25, 2010 11:14:28 AM
oh oh oh! something just came to me! when it says "a'cheval", which the other thread determined meant something like "of the horse" on the hemline maybe they meant sewing a horsehair braid along the hem to support the shape of the garment and make that little tail part stick out more! ( horsehair braid can be bought in the notions section and is a polyester strand that is stiff and is usually added to the hemline of crinolines and wedding dresses)
eh?eh? youd just tuck it in there as you line the edge with grosgrain. if you're using a heavy fabric or a thick interfacing this wouldnt be necessary of course. :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 25, 2010 02:07:04 PM
Here's one that's puzzling me.. on piece 5, there's the line marked "straight grain" but then up towards the front shoulder (near point C) there's another, lighter line, facing in another direction, with more text nearby (facing in yet another direction) that also says straight grain.  Was it designed to be made from an actual sewn union jack flag?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: just-fee on January 25, 2010 02:17:16 PM
wow, that is looking great!!!
I haven't even printed it out yet:P


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: zowiewoahie on January 25, 2010 04:10:39 PM
omg it looks fabulous. Grrrrrr I feel my arm being twisted!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 25, 2010 05:27:38 PM
Okay, I've only got a couple of pieces together yet.. but the point is to see them going together, right?  So here's my first picture! 
(please excuse the makeshift "dress form".. and all the cords..)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: chelsea anne on January 25, 2010 07:17:03 PM
Whoa, I haven't even printed mine yet, either! Damn. I need to get on it.

I had a feeling cheval meant horsehair braid. There was something else that I ended up using google translator for to figure out, and I wish I had my copy of the pattern with notes here with me so's I could remember. In fact, I have nothing to add to this conversation at all right now, other than so far, everybody else's looks rad. Very rad!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 25, 2010 07:39:42 PM
i kept noticing it saying something about "corset back" which confused me at first because as far as i can tell there is no corset-ry in here...so i think maybe thats just a turn of phrase?
It might refer more to the structure?  It doesn't lace like a corset, but the general build is a lot like a corset kinda turned diagonally..

I ended up printing out three copies of the pattern because I was fiddling with the settings (this was the first thing I actually printed on the large-format plotter.)  So if anybody in the US still needs a printout, I could mail a copy.  (It looks like shipping internationally would be prohibitive between cost and travel time, but domestic media mail is really cheap.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 26, 2010 06:56:29 PM
Got a bit more together..



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on January 27, 2010 12:15:30 AM
lookin good! im gonna hit the fabric store on thursday. i think my color choices are gonna be limited by what colors of grosgrain i can find. :/ do you think bias tape would work just was well? also, i think im gonna put a few snaps on the sholder and make that long sleeve removable..i think id wear it more as a summer vest/top then a arm-pit-drafty jacket. but i wanna keep the option for when im feelin' edgy.. ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 27, 2010 06:56:04 AM
lookin good! im gonna hit the fabric store on thursday. i think my color choices are gonna be limited by what colors of grosgrain i can find. :/ do you think bias tape would work just was well?
I was figuring on ordering from this wholesale ribbon site that I actually found last week, before I knew I was going to need grosgrain!  http://www.theribbonretreatwholesale.com/CatalogOfCategories.aspx?Id=43 (http://www.theribbonretreatwholesale.com/CatalogOfCategories.aspx?Id=43)  Although I've actually been thinking that if I can find it to match, nylon webbing would really work better for all of the places where the grosgrain isn't being used as bias tape.  Come to think of it, webbing might actually "count" as grosgrain-- the name is for the wide ribs, right?  I keep thinking that ribbon is just too thin in the places where it's supposed to look like straps.  So if I can find it in the right sizes with colors to match the ribbons I use to edge it, I think I'm going to use something like this: http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/home.php?cat=932  Should probably check a hardware store for that. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: chelsea anne on January 27, 2010 09:50:24 AM
I'm thinking that in some cases when they say grosgrain, they're using it to refer to a fabric with a heavy warp thread, not just the ribbon. So I think webbing DOES count as grosgrain. I'm still trying to find 100% cotton grosgrain ribbon, but I guess it's just not something that's made, so my new mission is to find this grosgrain fabric that wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grosgrain (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grosgrain), it was a very entertaining read!) claims exsists, and make bias binding. But it might take me a million years. I might just use black twill tape. Everywhere. All over.

I found the coolest turquoise faux suede yesterday but it's nylon backed and my world is crushed by the fact that it just won't work for this jacket. Too stiff. I'm going fabric shopping after school today again to make myself feel better about it, and maybe I'll find something as rad.

Bleh. Now I HAVE to go to school, or I'll be late. I so wanted to stay home and sew today.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on January 27, 2010 10:30:38 AM
I've found one place that has 100% cotton grosgrain.  It's a shop in London.. I don't know if they ship over here or not.. but it must be made if they have it, right?  It's the first one here: http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Category.aspx/Ribbons   (the link to the actual product was insanely long and craftster objected.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on January 27, 2010 06:48:36 PM
For binding the edges bias tape would be fine, and easier for curving around those rounded tabs.  Webbing for the strappy bits would be fine too, I'm sure.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: AlysiaDynamik on January 30, 2010 07:11:01 AM
OK, I am going to attempt this as well. I haven't sewn anything complicated from a pattern since my prom dress, but I am beyond inspired. Alright, time to go get started!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Manea on February 03, 2010 03:17:45 AM
Got to say I've been following you guys wide eyed in awe! Amazing job so far, and the best of luck to everyone participating - my sewing skills are slightly above 0 but you've inspired me to start learning more so maybe next time I can join in :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on February 10, 2010 08:32:18 PM
hey kids! so ive finally gotten around to going to the fabric store and finding fabric i like so im back to work on this thing. im almost done with the exterior one. then i need to make ANOTHER one to use for the lining (but that one should be easier, no extra flaps or straps.) you know- this is actually REALLY EASY. if you can sew well enough to put in a zipper that is really the hardest part. :)  i chose to kinda stick with the original color scheme without using actual flags. my white fabric tho has black lettering kinda printed on it all messy like- it says "dirty england" all over it :) i like the punkness i gives it. Oh! and i took the hard road and did the patchwork sleeve. worth it. to the pictures!

(from the front, flap up)


(front side, flap down)


(side view)


(back)


its gonna look rad lined and edged in red. i just need to pick up some d rings and snaps. hope this is encouraging! post pics! i wanna see how you're doin!



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on February 10, 2010 09:05:13 PM
I love how that looks with the fabrics you're using! The one with the words is awesome!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Lama Rama on February 11, 2010 10:28:45 AM
oh I love that fabric its so punky and matches the style of the jacket perfectly! Where did you get it from? It looks great so far, the colours really work. Jealous so much. I think I'm going to have to quickly learn to sew more so I can make this. Lets see how fast I can learn for summer! ;D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on February 11, 2010 12:37:50 PM
thanks! i found the fabric at SR Harris in MN. its a huge fabric warehouse like the one they go to on project runway. Its Juicy Couture fabric, surplus from something they made i guess. :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: snowbunnystudent on February 11, 2010 12:58:00 PM
WOW, that is A-MAZE-ZING!  :D I love the way you put the colors together!  Do you know about how much (yardage wise) you used for each color?  I'm thinking I might just want to try this now!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on February 11, 2010 01:40:52 PM
i bought two yards of each before i had the colors planned out- turns out im barely using the blue so that prolly could have been 1/2 a yard. :P i still have plenty left over too, id say youd be safe with 1.5 yards of both the shell and the lining. (oh! also, thats kinda ignoring the grain. i wanted the words on the white going every which way. so you might need 2 yrds if your pattern is one-directional.)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: snowbunnystudent on February 11, 2010 08:10:15 PM
Sweet, I have about five different fat quarters with similar theme/ colors (music and violins!). I'm thinking I might be able to use that with pieces chosen at (somewhat) random from the different quarters.  Now I just have to get past this round of tests at University and I can try and start on this baby!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Lama Rama on February 12, 2010 12:45:04 AM
Quote
thanks! i found the fabric at SR Harris in MN. its a huge fabric warehouse like the one they go to on project runway. Its Juicy Couture fabric, surplus from something they made i guess. 

Oh I just looked on their site and I'm so jealous, I wish there was something like that where I live. I'm going to have to look around and see if I can find a similar style fabric that I can get my hands on in the UK. Just don't know where to look. I'm never very good at this :P


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on February 23, 2010 05:47:18 PM
So what fabrics are the rest of you guys planning on using?  I've been procrastinating a bit, and I think it's partly because I haven't settled on a fabric, so I don't have a mental image of my final product.  I have an olive green floral brocade I'm considering using, which could give it more the look of the green runway version..  I've also got a bit (one yard 82" wide) of light blue silk twill with palm trees, which might be cool too.  But a lot of me wants to go with the flag look.. maybe I should look up some other flags..
I've got a lot of the muslin together, but there are still some pieces that confuse me.  (like the gathered one that attaches to piece  ???)  Like I said.. it may be more that I don't have a clear image in my mind of how I want it to turn out.  



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on March 02, 2010 08:45:14 AM
My boyfriend brought home a bunch of poster-mailing tubes from work.. just so I could send patterns if anybody else needs one!  (Plus a slightly larger one for the ferret to play in.) So if anyone else in the US is wanting to join in but lacking a pattern, let me know.. media mail is dirt freaking cheap.  I'm a bit stuck on the back, I'd love to see how other people go about it, too. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on March 02, 2010 01:04:41 PM
im just working on sewing in the lining! so close! ill post pics :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: craft and bake on March 11, 2010 11:47:56 AM
Hurrah!  My completed jacket:

I looove it.  My friend who took the photos has been watching me work on it for months.  She said, "Now that you're finally finished, we have to go out so you can show it off!"  :D

Oh. My. GOD! This picture makes me want to try taking a stab at it. Is it really complicated to make?


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: CH4r!ie on March 26, 2010 03:25:48 PM
wowser!! i so love this, i've just downloaded the pattern, it looks doable but can i be bothered to size it up to fit my chubby body?? i might just make it for the hell of it even though i would probably only be able to get an arm in it!!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on March 27, 2010 02:35:56 PM
ugh. that sleeve is REALLY tiny. i think im gonna have to redo it and make it a bit wider. i have server biceps.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 27, 2010 07:18:24 PM
I was going to say; the sleeve is probably the skinniest part of it.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on March 27, 2010 09:25:59 PM
So I'm still a few months away from actually starting this because I'm too busy, but I caved tonight and printed a scaled version of the ten main pattern pieces. Got them together in a tiny mock-up. It's making me think that I'll actually be able to make this because it went together very easily  :D
Though I can't figure out how piece 10 attaches to 1 to close the jacket... I'm hoping it will make more sense when it's full size and I have more then just the big ten pieces.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on March 31, 2010 01:11:28 PM
hey individual frog, if its not too much trouble and if you have a camera laying around would you mind posting a picture of how you did the elastic sleeve and how you connect it to the front with that button stand business? im a bit confused and if i could just see up close how someone else did it... thanks!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on March 31, 2010 06:16:23 PM
I don't have a camera handy but I'll see what I can do.  I'll try to get a good picture.  It's pretty straightforward though, you attach the button stand to the end of the right sleeve front that isn't connected to piece 10.  There are two male snaps on the button stand and you can snap one to the second snap down from the top of piece 1. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on March 31, 2010 08:09:15 PM
ha okok, i see what youre sayin. thanks. thats what i was thinking it was.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: alli.illektro on April 09, 2010 01:43:21 AM
DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE!







i took some artistic liberty when it comes to the eyelets and appliqued grosgrain pieces. oh! and also, i added snaps to where the long sleeve attaches to the shoulder so that it can be removable.



definitely wearin' it with my white docs ;)

sigh.... DONE DONE DONE DONE DONE! :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: sorbetsurprise on April 09, 2010 01:59:52 AM
It looks amazing!  Well done!  I love the colour scheme and it looks like it fits you really well


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: craftzeeLucy on April 09, 2010 02:00:37 AM
Woooooowwww... amazing

And it looks perfect on you. Not anyone can wear Galliano... Awesome!  :D


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Maggiedoll on April 09, 2010 07:04:32 AM
Awesome!  making the sleeve removable was definitely a good idea.  I've still gotta get snaps and grosgrain if I'm ever going to get this done.. *ahem* not to mention figure out what fabric I want to use!
Have gotten distracted.. and ended up with some unexpected (and very, very GROSS) veterinary bills.. Well, the bills themselves weren't gross.. it was the problem that caused them that was gross..  but that would seriously be TMI. 


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: acidtrix on April 09, 2010 07:23:41 AM
amazing :)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 09, 2010 08:27:43 AM
Congratulations!  A great job, and it looks amazing on you!  I like the way you handled the tab at the bottom of piece 4.

You should put up a post in Completed Projects so more people will see it!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on April 09, 2010 06:58:21 PM
wow! That came out really awesome! Great job! I love how you placed the different fabrics.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: CH4r!ie on April 10, 2010 01:04:03 AM
that looks awesome!! really stunning work!! i'm still thinking about it!! lol i may one day get around to it when i have miraculously become nicely slim overnight!! *dreams*


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: CostumeCat on April 19, 2010 11:11:22 PM
After reading all this I have to admit to wanting to do it... I haven't sewn anything that required skill in years, it would be nice to get back into it.  Maybe, just maybe, I'll take a poke through the stash and see if anything would like to come out and play  ;)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Dora_Muldrew on April 27, 2010 07:59:05 PM
This jacket is amazing and everyone is doing a wonderful job with it.
I have one question though and I hope that it hasn't been asked before. I've seen lots of reference to the width at the waist and bust, but I was wondering what the length is.
It's probably easiest to measure on the back from the bottom of the v to the top of the "bustle".
I'm planning on redrafting the pattern for a bigger width and at 5'11" will probably need a bigger length too. If both directions need to be increased the same amount I'm just going to print out a larger pattern.
Here's hoping for the easy fix. I don't think that I have enough patience to redraft the pattern otherwise.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 28, 2010 10:07:40 AM
The length is kind of hard to determine because of the way it spirals around the body.  But at its longest point it looks like it's about 25 inches.

The problem with scaling up is the grosgrain, but you can work around that I'm sure.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Shoeier on June 06, 2010 02:53:32 AM
This looks wicked difficult, but I'm in.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: DAMdesigns on July 25, 2010 04:58:08 PM
Love that jacket!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on December 06, 2010 09:52:15 PM
Has anyone else made any progress on this? I saw some odd striped fabric that automatically made me think of this jacket so I had to get it. It's narrow white/black stripes then very thick black/red stripes. It's pretty light weight though... I know it's been asked but there's a lot of pages to look through: how heavy are the fabrics people are using? should I line it with a twill or something so it has more body to it? I'm nowhere near even starting yet, but now that I have the fabric I have to get to it eventually :P


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on December 11, 2010 11:52:56 PM
I think it'll work with a lighter weight fabric, and there's no better way to tell than to just make it and see.  As long as it's not chiffon or something it should be fine.  If you think it needs it you can always line it with something a bit heavier.  Good luck!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Bohemian.Blitzkrieg on January 14, 2011 07:03:36 PM
I'm getting so fired up going through and seeing the awesome-ness that has been made.
I really want to get on this sometime soon.
Is there anybody with an extra pattern to send, by chance?
I don't have a working printer at home currently.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: LadyPhaerryn on February 13, 2011 08:42:34 PM
Okay, questions I have about this project are:

Can the inside/liner be made of something like satin? I have a fabulous lavender princess satin lying around, desperate for use. Or does the whole thing need more structure than that? If not, what SHOULD be used for the liner?
For the shell itself, what are the best fabrics to use? I'm playing around with the ideas of leather, brocade, Jacquard, or even velvet. I've read through this thread, but can't remember reading it or not... obviously, it'd have to be flexible enough to wear in that shape, but heavy enough to hold it. Do you think that some of the panels could be overlaid with lace?!
Is the pattern nearly impossible to scale up?! I'm NOwhere near a size 2... so I'd like to scale up the pattern to my size, and I know how to do it, but how terrible is it going to be to attempt? Any insight is appreciated.
Being as how this is dubbed as corsetry, can boning actually be inserted for more structure in the front?! I know this means more time involved with the modification of boning channels..., but it seems to be that it'd look wonderful.
Can I use broadcloth to make the test jacket, or is that just too thin?

I'm sure I'll think of others... sigh. I hate when I see a gorgeous pattern like this and I can't bother with it because I'm too curvy!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: LadyPhaerryn on February 14, 2011 11:27:27 AM
Just thought of another question... looking at the pattern, what size grosgrain is needed? Scaling the pattern up to 100% it looks like it's about 7/8" and 2", is that right? Or am I losing mine marbles? It's hard to determine without printing it out, but I'd really like to be sure I understand as much of it as I can before I attempt it.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Marwood on January 26, 2012 04:27:57 PM
Hi there- I am relatively new to craftster and not sure if this thread will be actively monitored anymore, but I was wondering if anyone else out there would care to do a new sew along for this jacket?

I confess to having already started mine - I am hoping to wear it to my brother's wedding!

Maybe I should find the sew along thread and post there . . .


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Marwood on January 26, 2012 04:35:50 PM
Hi, I am not sure if you ever did this. The grosgrain ribbon required varies from 22 mm thick for most of it to 4 cm or 40 mm for some other lengths.

I have seen versions ms that do not seem to have any grosgrain.

If anyone is interested in a sew along, I am up for it - although I have already started.
 
I also am not a size 2, but I have modified the size of the pieces a little - I am not very curvy, but am more like a size 3 maybe. Anyway I did my adjustments based on bust size.

I'm using silk dupion for the main fabric in cobalt blue, black satin for the lining and burgundy grosgrain, so far so good!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on January 26, 2012 05:08:07 PM
If you need any help I'll try to answer any questions...but it's been a long time!  I wish my pictures were still up...

Good luck!


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on January 26, 2012 06:55:33 PM
I keep thinking back to this jacket and still want to make it just as much as I did a couple years ago, but other projects keep coming up! Someday...

Marwood - I'd love to see your progress as you work on it (in this thread even), maybe it would motivate others to try as well.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Marwood on January 30, 2012 08:10:35 AM
Hi John, thanks for your offer of help. I have muddled through this a bit and am almost up to the lining. Struggling with right sleeve placement at the moment! I love it though.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Marwood on January 30, 2012 08:29:43 AM
Hi I will definitely post pics soon it is nearly done! Nd I m making the sleeve detachable so that will make it easier to finish! Technically since I have not done the sleeve yet! I was also watching the borrows the other night and thinking how the Ruhr sleeve could be made to have an attaching piece to make it long sleeved. It kind of all came together today.

I love it. And I have to agree with someone who said a few posts back that the pattern is so we'll marked, despite it's complexity it does all come together in a relatively logical fashion.

Pics soon . . .


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Marwood on January 30, 2012 05:36:03 PM
OK - so here is a progress shot.

OK that didn't work as I am so new to Craftster I need to have 10 posts before I can put in images apparently. It is in my gallery. I'll try and sort out he image thing too . . .

I love the fabrics and can't wait to wear it!

It fits and my ill-tutored attempts at resizing appear to have worked! It could have been better I guess, but I love it.

It is now finished (at least all the parts without the detachable sleeve I wanted to add). I will have to take a picture when I get home tonight.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: loukr on March 08, 2012 06:30:23 AM
OK - so here is a progress shot.

OK that didn't work as I am so new to Craftster I need to have 10 posts before I can put in images apparently. It is in my gallery. I'll try and sort out he image thing too . . .

I love the fabrics and can't wait to wear it!

It fits and my ill-tutored attempts at resizing appear to have worked! It could have been better I guess, but I love it.

It is now finished (at least all the parts without the detachable sleeve I wanted to add). I will have to take a picture when I get home tonight.

Hey Marwood, hope you don't mind - but I thought I'd post your piccy for you since you don't have enough posts yet :D



Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Pso on March 27, 2012 06:08:06 AM
I've found this image, if it help...

http://www.stylebistro.com/runway/Paris+Fashion+Week+Fall+2001/John+Galliano/ctvZG8wvnZP (http://www.stylebistro.com/runway/Paris+Fashion+Week+Fall+2001/John+Galliano/ctvZG8wvnZP)

I'm trying this project too but it seems very difficult.

Sorry, I'm french and I don't speak english very well ... but I can intent to help to explain some french words in patern (and yes, i'm very late for this too).


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Tamserine on April 12, 2012 05:51:07 AM
So I took a ream of paper down to my Mums at Christmas and decided I was going to see if i could fathom this pattern out.  I spent an entire evening on the floor sticking pattern pieces together,  then next day I cut it all out in poly cotton sheeting and spent the next day or so figuring out how all the pieces fitted together.

At this point I realised that it was going to be a little tight on me.  I'm a uk size 10 and wear a 34B bra size so I had to figure out some ways to resize it to fit me (more on that later).

When I was back at home I cut out all the lining in red poly cotton and then I kind of lost interest in the project - I think I'd managed to sew a couple of bits together the wrong way round and couldn't be bothered to unpick them.  Then about mid March  I realised that if i wanted to wear the thing for an event at the end of April I'd best get going.

I've had a bunch of trials with this project.

1)  I made mine of white cotton drill with poly cotton applique over the top for the flag bits.  For some insane reason I took it upon myself to use heavy weight interfacing,  this meant that some pieces were a trial to stitch together because of the number of layers of fabric.  Particularly that finny bit down the back,  I'm fortunate that I've got a walking foot for my machine.   I also had to rip the interfacing out of the back peplum piece to get it to hang right.

2) So I was really good,  and pre-washed all my fabric on hot to get rid of the loose dye.  Apparently this wasn't enough, as I discovered when steaming a particularly stubbon bit that the red dye ran,  and I had several episodes where I had to go soak pieces to remove red splodges and wait for them to dry before I could continue.   If I wash this,  I'm going to have to make sure its on a cool cycle.

3)  Having to hand sew the back of all the binding to get a neat finish.

4)  I cannot for the life of me work out how to button it up like the pictures of the flag jacket.  I know that the end of that peplum bit is supposed to be slit but even then I couldn't make it look like the pictures,  I'd also got too much fabric for it to happily gather without looking like a ridiculous ducktail so I just stitched the entire bit together and I'm happy with how it looks.

Some thoughts if you want to sizing it up:

I noticed that piece 9 sort of wraps around the body in a spiral,  so my first attempt I just added 15mm to each side of this piece and that seemed to give me enough room.  When I cut the lining I realised that this left piece 7 looking obviously narrower,  so I  added only to the outer edge of piece 9 and added another 15mm to the lower side of piece 7.  However when I tried it on the dress form,  it still didn't fit,  so I added another 15mm to the edge of piece 10 where it joins to piece 9.   I also added 15mm to each of the zip edges on the sleeve to make it a bit wider.  I tried adding the same amount to the shoulder seam,  but this made the shoulder go all floppy,  so I compromised and added about 5mm to each piece so the armhole fitted me comfortably, and trimmed the attachment part of the sleeve to it fitted the new sleeve head.   All this messing about meant I had to add some length to piece 9 and piece 4 so they joined up properly at the neck point.   This changed the length of piece 9 so that I had to put all the grosgrain bits on by eye,  but actually that wasn't as hard as I imagined.   Anyway,  it fits,  but it is rather snug,  I suspect I should have taken into account the fact I used thicker fabric.

I think if you are particularly busty you'd want to look at pieces 4 and 5 which are basically a princess seam and give yourself some more room there,  there are also options for adding more space across the front by just making piece 2 a bit bigger.
 
Some advice if you want to do the flag version:

It's not actually as hard as it looks,  but the scribbled guide lines on the patten are just that and don't actually match up with the jacket in the pictures, in fact the layout for the sleeve in the PDF doesn't make the sleeve pictured as that has another row of white at the very bottom.

I started by making up the pieces I could see layout for on the pattern pieces,  then I filled in the gaps going by the pictures,  some of it I just made up.  The only really troublesome bit is pieces 1, 2 and 3 where you need to get the triangle lining up.  I ended up stitching the pieces together and drawing the layout on then cutting the coloured pieces to fit.  I actually find it worked better if you didn't try and match up the colour blocks on the seams.  Mine has ended up with more blue on the shoulder and I flipped the blocks on piece 9 because I thought the red triangle broke up an expanse of white I had going on.  In fact it doesn't matter at all if you don't make it look like the original,  you just need to pick random colour blocks and add in the odd triangle piece.   Having looked at it,  I have my doubts it was made from a flag,  just because of the layout of some of the pieces.

So I'm *nearly* done,  I'm just waiting for some more press studs,  having inadvertently bought 2 different sizes,  Currently the bottom bit doesn't have the lining stitched in, or the binding on and we're some snaps missing,  and I may move that flappy bit up by the collar as its ended up a lot lower than on the original and currently interferes with the top strap.  I notice that the runway version has only the bottom elastic strap,  the flag version has the bottom two,  but the pattern actually has three marked.  I also have to work out the best way of attaching my elastic straps.  I've changed a few things around, that applique bit on the peplum has turned into a strap with eyelets, and I've put eyelets and lacing in the sleeve and laced the sleeve on.

Anyway,  some pictures:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/7061636975_e2359b39d5_z.jpg (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/7061636975_e2359b39d5_z.jpg)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/7061622117_3b6414189a_z.jpg (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/7061622117_3b6414189a_z.jpg)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7061629369_f464ea417b_z.jpg (http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7061629369_f464ea417b_z.jpg)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5468/7061644075_6c601b011a_z.jpg (http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5468/7061644075_6c601b011a_z.jpg)

Spurred on by the pictures that Pso found I had a google about and found this video of it in motion on youtube - its at around 2:20.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSngMgo19Z4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSngMgo19Z4)

I think I may also have figured out this "grosgrain a cheval" business: After some intensive googling,  I kept ending up at this page on alibaba about saddle stitch grosgrain http://french.alibaba.com/products/saddle-stitch-grosgrain.html, so my initial thought was whoever had drafted the pattern had planned to use that, and then changed their minds. I went with it as my binding because it just looks fab,  but I went narrower than the original.

Sometime later,  I found this page,  from the picture I think that 'au cheval' just means that it needs applying with saddle stitch,  although the picture there doesn't look like grosgrain,  it looks like some sort of tape with a twill weave.

http://100associes.free.fr/Expo6/ExpoTemp6.html (http://100associes.free.fr/Expo6/ExpoTemp6.html)

"Placer le gros grain à cheval sur les 3 épaisseurs de tissu en commençant par le bas du devant et piquer à petits points sur tout le pourtour du blanc corset. Faire de même pour le haut et le bas des manches"

This page also mentions it:  http://www.crdp.ac-caen.fr/examens/04/500/242350/EP2-S.pdf (http://www.crdp.ac-caen.fr/examens/04/500/242350/EP2-S.pdf)

Big thanks to all the people on Craftster who posted their thoughts about this pattern,  I don't think I'd have ever attempted it if I hadn't read the original thread and seen it was possible.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on April 13, 2012 09:55:52 PM
It looks very very nice, Tamserine.  I'm glad to see someone else do the flag version. 

I didn't really have any trouble making it out of actual flags, except that I had to cut the pieces on the bias instead of on the grain.  (As I said long ago, I wonder if they had fabric with the Union Jack printed diagonally.)  Even the sketchy lines matched up fairly well, as I recall.

Your video link has finally, after all these years, proved that the 'basque dos' is sewn to the body the way that everyone but me has always thought it did.  I am wrong.  But that makes it, as you say, impossible to wear the way she's wearing it in the showstudio pics (which I personally think looks much more interesting than the way it's worn on the runway, which is just a sort of twisted corset.  I'm actually not sure I would ever have bothered with this project if it wasn't for the showstudio pictures.)  Someday I swear to God I'm going to track down someone in the Galliano studio who can explain this to me, or else it will bug me for the rest of my life.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: miss diss on May 06, 2012 02:55:07 PM
The thread is alive!

I've been working on this jacket on and off for the last half year, and all your discussions and ideas have been very helpful for me (i couldn't for the life of me figure out the right sleeve, and was rather puzzled by the basque dos).

What i have decided is that the Union-Jack version is sewn differently than the runway version, at least where the basque dos is concerned. I did the "gather to 6 cm" as noted on the pattern and the notches and all line up perfectly. It does give it a "duck-tail", but that fits perfectly with the dress i'm making to go along with it.

As for sizing, i took the brute force approach and printed it out 15% larger (though only after having done a mock-up in the original size). I then made a second mock-up with the larger pattern which fits well (if i had any experience at modifying patterns, and a month or two more time, i'd attempt some changes, but i'm on a deadline).

I'm working with a heavy black satin fabric (except for the right sleeve, where i'm using lighter/less stiff satin), and have replaced most of the grosgrain with a silver brocade ribbon. And i've decided to go for buttons instead of snaps, which is probably insane. And like Tamserine i'm lacing up the left sleeve instead of using a zipper. Like others i'm using straps and buckles instead of elastic for the bits between 2 and 6.

Thanks also to Pso for that picture of the runway version, that's the best picture of it i've seen yet. I'll watch Tamserine's video in a moment.

And yeah i'm on a deadline, i hope to be able to show finished pics here in a week.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: h5nc on May 20, 2013 10:26:54 PM
Thanks for you guys! I just finished mine and I will post the link here..... well I need 10 posts to include pictures! lol

OK here is the link
https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=423791.0


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on February 12, 2014 10:12:01 AM
I don't know if anyone who was around in this thread a couple years ago still uses the site, but just in case... I finally used the pattern for this! Thanks again to the person who sent it to me (I'm sorry, I've lost track of who it was  :-\ )

I didn't really follow instructions or use all the pieces, and I definitely wasn't going to set the massive amount of snaps it needed, so it's all a bit different, but here it is:







If anyone's interested in more photos/info, there's some on my blog:
http://as-i-sew.blogspot.com/search/label/Galliano%20jacket (http://as-i-sew.blogspot.com/search/label/Galliano%20jacket)


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: IndividualFrog on February 23, 2014 02:25:53 PM
Very nice!  The snaps are a pain, but actually that kind of thing is my favorite part of sewing.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: Spark* on April 18, 2014 11:01:31 AM
A question for the people who have made this: how possible do you think it would be to adjust just the waist measurement for this pattern/ was there much extra room in the buckle things (which i think adjust the waist from how I understand it) like enough for a 28 inch waist? I have some fabric and really want to start making it, but I'd want to know if there's anything really major I'd have to do before I print and cut out that monster of a pattern.


Title: Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along!
Post by: N30Nb100d on April 01, 2015 07:33:47 PM
A question for the people who have made this: how possible do you think it would be to adjust just the waist measurement for this pile of flesh/ was there much extra room in the buckle things (which i think adjust the waist from how I understand it) like enough for a 28 inch waist? I have some fabric and really want to start making it, but I'd want to know if there's anything really major I'd have to do before I print and cut out that monster of a pile of flesh.

I range from 26-28" depending on the day, and didn't make any adjustments to the size, just fiddled a bit with closure placement (easy since I didn't even use the snaps and did straps instead)

Just realized your post was from a year ago... sorry : /