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Topic: Beginner's guide to Inkjet Iron-On Transfers  (Read 28152 times)
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MommaGreenBean
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« Reply #40 on: June 06, 2007 09:35:22 AM »

you're going to make me get off my butt?  LOL

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« Reply #41 on: June 20, 2007 04:32:15 AM »

do you have any advice to getting the word out that you are selling t-shirts? are there any specific places to go?
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« Reply #42 on: June 25, 2007 05:57:25 PM »

When You say Dark/light transfers do you mean dark as in dark t-shirt or dark transfer paper?
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« Reply #43 on: July 14, 2007 04:58:02 PM »

i am and iron on junkie, and as a matter of fact i am wearing one of my creations right now but i just want to know the difference between inkjet iron ons and regular iron ons?
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« Reply #44 on: August 16, 2007 09:14:58 PM »

Sorry for the long absence. Been busy with business. Glad my post could help out some in need. Let me see if I can answer some of the questions I have missed and maybe give some more tips I have since learned.

The difference between regular iron-ons and inkjet iron-ons (if I am understanding this question correctly) is this: you can buy patches or premade irons ons and those apply with a type of glue that when heated adheres to the surface of the shirt. Inkjet iron-ons are a special paper that you print from your inkjet printer and through heat make the ink stick to the shirt allowing you to print most anything from pictures to your own designs.

As for the brand of paper to use, if you find paper at a store such as Walmart, Michaels, or even from trade shows, odds are it will not last. Avery is the exception here which can be purchased at Walmart or Office Supply stores, but it is expensive and should only be used if you are making 5-10 shirts.

Irons I really have no say over which irons would work best as I only use a heat press. If this is something you want to consider doing fulltime then go out and buy the cheapest press you can find, the Hobbylite. I have done over 10,000 shirts on mine and only just got the surface refinished using a friend in a metal shop that used a power grinder/polisher on it.

For enlarging pictures there is a great program out there that is a plug-in for photoshop called genuine fractals. How you obtain this program is entirely up to you. It works wonders on photos, but be warned that you need to have at least a photo of about 1x1inch in order to enlarge it to 8x10 and it look passable. You might have to do some slight touch-ups on it such as filling in solid colors by matching, but it works great.

Blank shirts can be found at Michaels usually for $2 each. Walgreens has also been selling cheap shirts for $2 each. i especially like them because they have some Gildan shirts which is what I use.



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« Reply #45 on: August 17, 2007 08:15:10 PM »

As for the brand of paper to use, if you find paper at a store such as Walmart, Michaels, or even from trade shows, odds are it will not last. Avery is the exception here which can be purchased at Walmart or Office Supply stores, but it is expensive and should only be used if you are making 5-10 shirts.
I use avery and they are the best I've found. I've had the package for a long time and just can't see buying more (in any brand) till I use it.
Just thought I'd throw a testimonial in:
I have used the lower quality stuff and it will last longer if you trim your picture or text out, but tends to crack and fade each wash and sticks together if it gets warm. Which will rip or tear your picture when you remove it from the dryer and sometimes washer.
Go with the nicer stuff people trust me! It's so worth the money! I can't remember how long I've had my avery package, but if you are doing small numbers of shirts like me it's just fine to get. Mine cost 5.00-ish and had 12 sheets in it. It has lasted at least four years but I don't sell shirts or anything like that. I just like to be able to make some for swaps. Which I have done:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/smor7/IMG_1596.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/smor7/IMG_1591.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n61/MrsHallsCrafts/swappackage3.jpg
But walmart has changed prices since then so I have no idea what the going rate is.

Blank shirts can be found at Michaels usually for $2 each. Walgreens has also been selling cheap shirts for $2 each. i especially like them because they have some Gildan shirts which is what I use.
Another place to look is walmart! When stuff goes on sale it goes on sale! And hobby lobby has shirts for 3.00 which is not bad since they have up to 3x!



[/quote]
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Icemommy
« Reply #46 on: August 18, 2007 12:34:25 AM »

Too hot a setting also doesn't work. My first iron on went great, the second got burned brown and the red ink from the lines on the cover sheet also bled through. Sucks on a white shirt Sad
I hope laundry fixes that somewhat.
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brookeincraftland
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« Reply #47 on: October 12, 2007 03:01:09 AM »

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. I have been wanting to get into this for a while now. But it seemed horribly daunting and expensive! I love the idea that I can custom make my own t shirts. I WILL be doing this and soon. Thanks for taking hte time to write down all the things anyone would need to know to get started. You're awesome!!!!!

brooke Smiley
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« Reply #48 on: May 15, 2008 09:26:40 PM »

Sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried Iron-ons on eco-friendly fabrics? Like bamboo, hemp, soy fiber, or modal?

Cuz I know on the front page it says for cotton or polyblends. 

Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm just really inexperienced. :]
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Eliea
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« Reply #49 on: May 16, 2008 12:46:42 PM »

Sorry if this has been asked already, but has anyone tried Iron-ons on eco-friendly fabrics? Like bamboo, hemp, soy fiber, or modal?

Cuz I know on the front page it says for cotton or polyblends. 

Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm just really inexperienced. :]
It won't be a good idea on a poly/poly blend because poly is melt-able and the iron has to be HOT when you use iron on's.
BAmboo or hemp might work. I'd test it and see if I had the money. It's a natural fiber so it would be interesting to find out.
Soy I'm not sure of. I've never really messed with soy fibers or fabrics.
If I were testing it, I'd prep the shirt with washing and drying, then use a small iron on somewhere where if it messed up it wasn't a big deal.
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